Amazon Echo 2nd Generation MLB Board Replacement

Geschrieben von: Billy Pho

Kommentare: 13

Amazon Echo 2nd Generation MLB Board Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten

Einleitung

The MLB board handles the primary functions of the Echo device (e.g. Alexa A.I., Bluetooth, WiFi). Follow this guide to replace this component if any of these functions are not working as intended.

Werkzeuge

Schritt 1

Remove the rubber layer beneath the device.
Look for the crater beneath the rubber layer and place your thumb on it. Hold down and lift off the cover with your other hand.
Remove the four 8.0 mm T8 Torx screws on the lid.
Remove the lid from the device.

Removing the rubber layer does not actually seem to be necessary.

jrhifixit - 17/07/19

Where do you get the replacement Pcb

niall.mcgee1 - 17/03/21

Rubber base removal not necessary.

Screws for first few steps may be T10, but a quality T8 driver may also work

Vicente Laluz - 22/02/23

Schritt 2

Use a spudger to flip up the small flap on the ZIF connector.
Gently pull the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.
Lift the AMP Board gently while sliding the ribbon cable out through the center hole to reveal another set of wires underneath the board.

Amp board may have two T10 screws holding tweeter speaker, do not remove.

Vicente Laluz -

Schritt 3

Use a spudger to lift up one of the small flaps on only one side of the female connector.
Pull on the wire toward the lifted side until the male connector is disconnected.
Remove the AMP Board.

Schritt 4

Remove the four 30.0 mm T8 Torx screws in the corners.
Remove the large plastic piece on top of the subwoofer while threading the ribbon cable and male connector through the hole.

These screws are T10, not T8

Chris D - 27/12/20

Schritt 5

Remove the lid on top of the subwoofer.
Flip the device over and let the subwoofer fall into your hand.
The subwoofer is a strong magnet. Keep it away from any other electronics and unshielded wires.

I found the subwoofer was lightly adhered to the case, and didn’t “fall into” my hand until I very gently separated its edge with the point of a spudger.

jrhifixit - 17/07/19

Where can you get the replacement speakers?

Jeff Emery - 08/06/20

Schritt 6

Lift the MIC board over and lay it down against a surface.
Use a spudger to flip up the small flap on the ZIF connector.
Disconnect the ribbon cable from the MIC board and pull the board away.

Where can I find the MIC Board replacement?

Diego Sanjines Flores - 20/05/19

Schritt 7

Remove the four 16.0 mm T8 Torx screws underneath the speaker.
Once you unscrew the four 16.0 mm T8 Torx screws, the remaining components of the device have no support. Take caution when flipping the device over to avoid damage to the remaining components.
Flip the device over while supporting the front panel side.
Remove the front panel cover by lifting it.

The front panel cover doesn’t seem to be keyed, so if you find yourself wondering, the “+” button should be positioned to be closest to the power connector (the long plastic strip the slightly moves out of the rest of the cylindrical chassis.

jrhifixit - 18/07/19

Schritt 8

Remove the white plastic shielding and the black silicon cover.
Remove the metal cover beneath the black silicon cover.

Schritt 9

Carefully lift up the MLB board. Underneath it is another ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip the small flap on the ZIF connector.
This will take a few tries to get it done correctly. Remember to not use too much force as you do not want to damage the ZIF connector.
Remove the MLB Board by flipping the device over and letting it fall into your hands.
Completely remove the ribbon cable from the case, reattach it to the MLB board, then place the board and ribbon cable back into its original position.

The article doesn't mention the other ribbon cable connected to the MLB board, which sits on the opposite side and can be seen in the photo in the gap between the board and the case.

This long ribbon cable runs down the side of the case and connects to the AMP board. The cable is held in place with a light adhesive so it's less likely to be disconnected in a fall, but it was disconnected on my Echo, possibly during the disassembly process.

To get at it, I had to pull that ribbon cable away from the side of the case, a process made easy by a slide-away cover on that side of the case.

This disconnected cable, as well as a disconnected cable on the MIC board, turned out to be the only thing wrong with my Echo, which showed no signs of life after falling off a table.

The cable latches are pretty weak on the Echo, so disconnected cables are likely the cause of many dead Echos. I added hot glue to the sides of the cables to anchor them to the boards.

Dan Watts -