Blue Yeti Demontage

Geschrieben von: Kevin Jones
  • Kommentare: 33
Blue Yeti Demontage

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Sehr einfach

Schritte

6

Zeitaufwand

4 - 6 Minuten

Einleitung

In dieser Anleitung lernst du, das Yeti Mikrofon von Blue zu zerlegen.

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    • Als Erstes solltest du das Gummiteil aus der Halteraufnahme entfernen. Dies funktioniert am besten mit einer Pinzette oder einem kleinen Schlitzschraubenzieher. Danach kannst du die drei Schrauben mit einem kleinem Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher (PH1) #1 entfernen.

    Do you know the measurements of the screws? I was looking to take mine apart to resolder the connections and realized I am missing them. Maybe that’s why my audio crackles.

    Ryan Fujimoto -

    On black model there is a sticker to remove and 2 of the screws are hidden beneath.

    Branden Rush -

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    • Die 4 äußeren Knöpfe entweder mit deinen Fingern oder vorsichtig mit einer Zange entfernt werden.

    • Du wirst merken, dass das Gehäuse und die Gitterabdeckung stark nachgeben.

    I’m having trouble removing the volume and mute buttons from the front, much more so than the gain and sound pattern knobs. Is this just me or are all yetis like that?

    Kilercarno -

    I had some problems removing the buttons with my fingers (they were too slippery). I got them off quite easily using a pair of adjustable pliers / multi-grip pliers.

    The buttons are the standard friction-fit potentiometer buttons, so it shouldn’t take too much force to remove them

    Anton -

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    • Jetzt kannst du vorsichtig den kompletten Mikrofonmechanismus aus der äußeren Hülle entfernen. Unten kannst du den 3,5mm Klinken-Stecker und den USB Stecker erkennen. Diese können nun falls nötig ersetzt werden.

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    • Schaue nun in Richtung des Filter-Gewebes. Hier siehst du vier #0 Kreuzschlitzschrauben. Entferne diese vorsichtig, damit sich das Filter-Gewebe entfernen lässt. Nun kannst du die drei Kabelsets sehen, jeweils ein Set pro Kondensator. Sie zeigen zur Seite, daran erkennt man, dass es ein omnidirektionales Mikrofon ist. (kein Richtmikrofon)

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    • Wie du dem Bild entnehmen kannst, besitzt dieses Mikrofon einen eingebauten Poppfilter, um die drei internen Mikrofon-Kondensatoren zu schützen. Sie zeigen an der Seite des Mikrofons nach außen, sodass die Benutzung des Mikrofon von der Seite her besser ist als von vorne.

    You referred to those components as “mic receivers” and “speakers” which is a little confusing since they are neither receivers or speakers. Those are condenser microphones. Thanks.

    contactlukes -

    I made some edits. Hopefully they were meaningful changes to reflect what you said.

    Kevin Jones -

    At this point, you can take the foam out and wash it along with the wire mesh. Warm soapy water. Just make sure to completely dry both the foam and mesh before reassembly.

    jcarm75 -

    The mics don't really point "outward". The mics are not very directional but mostly cardioid to omni-directional. So this is an X-Y configuration (two mics on top of another at 90 degrees angle) that provides the best stereo image or mono if the signals are mixed. So both "front" mics are used for "Stereo" image. All 3 cells are used for "omni" (all signal mixed), Both mics are used for "cardioid" imaging (in mono) with some rejection, maybe, from the back mic. The front mics are also used, in mono, with the back mic, all 3 mixed to offer the "front-back" sound image. The user's best placement is definitely in front of the Yeti for "stereo", "cardioid" and "front-back" imaging. For "omni", it doesn't matter.

    Robert Untel -

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    • Falls du die Mikrofonabdeckung von der Platine abklemmen musst, achte auf die Verbindungen.

    • Hier sind drei Kondensatoren vorhanden, daher auch 3 Verbindungsdrahtpaare zur Platine, jedes hat seine eigene Farbe (schwarz/weiß, schwarz/rot, schwarz/blau).

    • Notiere dir die Position der Verbinder aus deinem Blickwinkel, dies ist wichtig da dies auch die Charakteristiken des Mikrofons beeinflussen.

    The two condenser microphones face the blue logo direction.

    jcarm75 -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Kevin Jones

Mitglied seit: 28/11/12

1154 Reputation

24 Kommentare

And what if i want to do the opposite?

For example, you removed the down part of the yeti, I wanna remove just the top. How can I do that?

Dino -

You have to remove the bottom to unscrew the top from the inside.

Kevin Jones -

this is a bit of a long shot. but any idea on a replacement part# / source for the 3.5mm barrel jack on one of these?

Joe Romo -

Try searching on e.g. ebay for “3 pin pcb mount female 3.5mm jack”

The plug is a standard part, so it should be readily available. I replaced my plug with a scavanged part that I happened to have on hand!

Anton -

@ Joe

Sorry I don’t.

Kevin Jones -

anyway to repair a destroyed MINI USB on the motherboard

Corey -

Did you ever figure this out? Mine is damaged.

John krug -

Anyone know where I can get replacement parts?

Skyline -

The connectors (USB and Audio jack) are standard PCB-mounted jacks, so you should be able to find them on ebay etc.

The potentiometers also seemd to be standard parts, so you should be able to get those quite easily as well

Anton -

Can the internal foam guard be taken out of the microphone mesh, so that they both can be washed, cleaned, and dried separately?

Lenneurt -

This would be great for those who want to buy a used Blue Yeti microphone.

Lenneurt -

This article answers part of my question:

https://service.shure.com/s/article/how-...

Lenneurt -

I wouldn’t worry to much about taking the foam out. You will more than likely need to just wash it by running soapy water through it or dumping it into a soap bath and then I would use a fan to dry it.

Kevin Jones -

Lucet. . 28 minutes ago (edited). . I found a video that shows that removing the internal foam from the microphone grill/mesh is possible

https://youtu.be/-Axw1e6jths?t=150. . .

Lenneurt -

I have a blue yeti with distorted audio from the mic. Any idea which component may have failed? I'm guessing there's an encoder or amplifier IC on the board which would be a good guess but not too sure on these things

Matthew Owst -

Yeah my Blue just blew I think. The recordings are chopped in half (one of mics is clean). The other sounds clipped/distorted/robotic/digital. So the audio curve is lopsided: the lower half looks correct, the upper half is flattened and nearly dead.

thomaswhitmire -

My screwhole on the bottom of the yeti seems too small for the standard screw that comes with the blue radius iii shock mount. I can only tighten the screw 1 turn before it stopes, but there’s still about 6 threads of space… I think I either stripped or compressed the thread tracks because I was an idiot and tried screwing in the wrong screw…

Please help, any ideas to troubleshoot much appreciated

Patrick Gallagher -

I would suggest taking it apart and try putting the screw into the receiving hole while unbuilt to see if the screw still fits properly with no obstructions. It could be just slightly off when you put it back together causing friction.

Kevin Jones -

Anyone else find their Yeti foam inside the mesh to smell terribly chemical and/or moldy?

I bought mine new years ago and it still has this smell. I spray alcohol and vinegar and the smell comes back

in minutes. I’m thinking it’s just the toxic foam they used on the models ten years ago at least.

Jim K. -

Thanks for your help disassembling the mike.

I have a blue yeti with a broken mute button. Looks like a part that can be replaced without soldering if I can find a replacement part, or that there might be something off the shelf that might work. A cylindrical push button with light. Any ideas how to find a replacement part?

I called the company to see if I can purchase the part.

The Microphone repair shops won’t work on anything in that price range.

Blue said they will neither repair the device or sell the part. Shame on them.

Best regards

Bruce Kaufman -

Do you know the dimensions of the three screws on bottom (length and thread?). I realize one is stripped and two are missing. I emailed Blue and they said they wouldn’t disclose that information. Thanks!

Emilio Taltique -

The buttons on there were really tight, had to use pliers to do the job. Completely ruined the buttons, does anyone happen to know places where you could find the replacement buttons on these mics?

Guan Wei Zhang -

EBay has a few spare knobs and buttons, Etsy also has some 3D printed replacements. Hope this helps

Kippler -

Any idea on what the part is called and where I can find it that activates the mute option (the bit soldered to the board). As I’ve snapped mine so I can’t mute my microphone anymore and I can’t find the name of it anywhere

Kippler -