Einleitung

This guide will remove the battery from your ASUS Chromebook Flip C302 and allow for installing a new battery.

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    • Turn the Chromebook upside down. You may want to place paper or another soft material between the lid and your work surface, so as not to scratch it.

    • Remove the 10 (6.14 mm) case screws with a T4 Torx driver.

    On my machine, an Asus C302C Chromebook, a T4 Torx driver was required. A T5 Torx driver was too large.

    Paul -

    I concur - T5 too big

    Kevin Pierce -

    With mine, the T4 supplied with the battery was too small. I was able to use a T5.

    rob wilson -

    Noted! I’ve updated the guide.

    Kevin Purdy -

    My screws just spin I will not come out

    granyjane -

    T5 worked for me

    RonWan -

    T5 Torx was the one that worked for me. T4 was too small. ASUS Chromebook C302C. Screws came out fine with a T4, but I couldn’t get them back in until I realized that the T5 fit better and was able to get the screws back in.

    Wayne Lunsford -

    On ours a T5 was needed. Maybe some machines were built with T4s and some with T5s.

    MaggieL -

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    • Using a spudger (or prying tool, or fingernail), gently lift the feet at the rear of the laptop (near the hinges). Get underneath the pad, then release the adhesive by sweeping in a circular motion.

    • Store the feet upside down and not sticking to anything―you can likely re-adhere them after replacing the cover.

    Do NOT try to remove the other (front) two feet! They attach differently and are not designed to be removed. There are no screws hidden below them.

    KEVIN PRICE -

    Wish I’d read this comment before I tried prying one of the two front feet off. I didn’t break it, but now it won’t go completely back in place. This is in the original instruction above, but I wasn’t reading carefully…

    Wayne Lunsford -

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    • Use a #00 screwdriver to remove the 3.17 mm screws from beneath the rear feet.

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    • Using a plastic prying tool (avoid metal, as the case is easily scratched), lift the back cover from the case. The underside of a hinge is a good place to start.

    • You'll feel the cover give way, but there are loose clips holding the lid on. Work gently around the lid, prying and moving beyond clips when you encounter them.

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    • Pull away the back cover. You now have access to the battery, the write-protect screw, and other components.

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    • Locate the battery connector. With the large silver/black battery facing you, the connector is just above it, in the middle-left. But first we must remove some tape.

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    • Using a spudger or other ESD-safe plastic tool, pry the thick plastic tape and foam top off the connector, just above the multi-colored leading to the connector.

    • You may use tweezers, or fingers, to get a better grip on the tape, but be cautious not to touch metal or electrical components, as the battery is still attached.

    • Save this bit of adhesive and foam. It should easily re-apply during re-attachment.

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    • Using a spudger or prying tool (but no metal), gently pry one side of the connector up from the board.

    • Be sure not to use too much force, or pry at the connector underneath the top plastic bit.

    • After one side has popped loose from its socket, repeat the procedure with the other side, until the connector is loose.

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    • Following the wires from the connector back to the battery, you'll find a piece of thick electrical tape about halfway up the wires. Using tweezers, peel up and remove this sticky tape with slow, even force.

    • Be very cautious with your tweezers or other prying tool, as this tape protects the fragile display cable underneath.

    • Save this piece of sticky tape for re-adhesion during reassembly with a new battery.

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    • Look for Phillips #0 screws to the left and right of the battery, in small bump-outs to attach the battery to the speakers on both sides. Remove these screws.

    • The ASUS C302CA I disassembled only had these two screws, but had threaded holes for other screws on the bottom. Check around the perimeter for additional screws, especially if you feel resistance during the next step.

    I think the empty threaded holes you saw on the bottom of the battery will be filled by case screws once you put the cover back on.

    John Feibusch -

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    • Pulling from the bottom (near the hinges), gently lift and pull the battery out.

    • If you feel any notable resistance to removing the battery, check that you have removed all its screws, and that the battery connector and its tape have been removed.

    Many thanks - very easy to follow and it worked perfectly.

    rob wilson -

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Be sure to replace all the tap and foam pads―they help protect delicate cables and components from impacts.

Kevin Purdy

Mitglied seit: 11/04/19

3612 Reputation

18 Kommentare

Thank you so much for this guide - worked great. My repair might not have been successful without this guide.

John Feibusch -

This was my first experience trying anything like this and it was PERFECT - AWESOME experience. This saved me over $500 from buying a new Chromebook. Thanks again!!

Charles Shipman -

Me too - very straightforward, worked perfectly. Many thanks!

rob wilson -

Thank you for this! I used this along with some tools I bought from you guys from an iPad repair and changed out the battery in 15 minutes. It saved me from buying a new Chromebook.

Denny Lee -

So I needed to replace the battery and the one on your link did nnot give any results so I found a battery online to buy- whihc arrived and I replaced using your guide.But the chroebook says battery doe snot exist, there is noicon.I have tried a frimware update, hard reset everything. when I put back theold battery it finds it, but the replacement it does not recognise. Now I am worried the battery I bought they sent me was faulty? as when I run a battery_firmware check it gives :

Battery info:

OEM name:

Model number:

Chemistry : OTD0

Serial number:

Design capacity: 5065 mAh

Last full charge: 0 mAh

Design output voltage 7700 mV

Cycle count 1

Present voltage 0 mV

Present current 0 mA

Remaining capacity 0 mAh

Flags 0x00

So now I am at a loss at what to do other than chuckitall in the bin and buy a new one? any ideas greatfully recieved. Thanks,

Jeanette Hobbs -

I have the same problem. I bought a refurbished chromebook, it has a battery that the chromebook itself does not see. It is inside, everything is connected correctly, but the device does not see the battery. knows what to do with it?

Андрей Евгеньевич -

Hi, i replaced the battery with success as described above. But now my asus chromebook flip c302-c009 is so slooooooow. How is that possible? I did a powerwash, a complete format and reset chrome OS but still, no where near the speed it had. Did I hit the display cable in step 9? I don´t think so but ..

Any suggestions?

Vincent Bats -

Tools says Torx T5. Step 1 says Torx T4.

Scott H -

Once I had the right size torx bit, things went smoothly. I did have a problem with the cheap spudger that came with the replacement battery. Ended up using an X-acto knife to lift the pads. Would advise ordering replacment pads.

Charles Kwiatkowski -

Thanks for this guide! Small point of attention: in the tools you list T5 torx, but in step 1 you need T4 torx, so tools should also say T4 (T5 is too big).

Gerhard Burger -

Great guide helped me successfully replace my Chromebook battery.

A couple of points worth adding for stupid people like me!

- Before Step 1, shut down your Chromebook completely. (I’d just closed lid and only noticed it was still in standby after I had the back off!)

- In step 3, it’s worth emphasising that it’s *only* the two rear feet (by the hinges) that have screws underneath. I skimmed the instructions (my fault) and wrongly assumed screws were under all four feet. The front feet look almost identical and I nearly broke one trying to lever it off before rereading and realising my mistake!

Philip Brewin -

Does anyone have a link to the C302C battery from a reputable seller? I can’t find it here on iFixit. Any recommendation is appreciated. Thanks.

rshinglaiho -

Thank you! Looking forward to purchasing the tools and replacing the battery in this device

Creed Huff -

Thank you! Worked like a charm.

Laurie Rothstein -

Worked like a charm. Thank you very much! Tell folks not to buy cheap screwdriver bits…they don't even last as long as the project :/

Laurie Rothstein -

Whooo Hooo!

Keith Alan Orr -

For the people who say "ChromeOS doesn't see my new battery!"... make sure the connector is correctly attached. Installing mine, there was no subtle positive click in place, and Chrome wouldn't say anything about the battery. (I was feeling antsy about the connector and didn't screw the back down.) Sure enough, I removed the back again and inspected the connector very closely. Mine was upside down. When properly oriented, you can actually see more copper on the top than the bottom where it mates with the socket on the motherboard. And there will be two very subtle clicks as you push it into place; the second click is almose imperceptible.

MaggieL -

Thank you so much. This is my first time replacing a computer battery and you made it easy. You kept one more item away from the landfill. One suggestion for improvement is to note you only need to remove the two "feet" closest to the hinge. The bottom two feet do not need to be removed

Kevin Lim -