Disassembling Asus Transformer Pad TF300

Geschrieben von: B0NK3R5
  • Kommentare: 30
Disassembling Asus Transformer Pad TF300

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

9

Zeitaufwand

1 - 3 Stunden

Einleitung

I did this to replace part of the screen assembly.

It's not as detailed as it should be, but I hope it will help you out a bit /give you an idea of what you are doing.

Make sure to read the entire guide before starting to give yourself an idea of what's where etc.

There are several fragile connectors and ribbon cables. You also do not want to pry the copper heatsink off of the processor.

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    • Case back removed from tablet

    • Remove the back with your fingernails, popping it open between the black border, and the plastic backing.

    • Be careful near the buttons and headphone jack.

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    • Start by taking the screws from around the frame off.

    • Then remove the screws from this PCB

    • If you are replacing screen components, skip to step 7

    • Remove the little foam pads from the two connectors on the PCB These are for the digitizer

    • Flip up the releases on the plugs to pull out the ribbon cable. (I will show some more detailed pictures of the same process on other connectors.

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    • Note the large copper heatsink. DO NOT pull this off.

    • There are a couple connectors underneath you will have to detach. They have flip up releases, hopefully you can see it.

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    • First two are under the copper plate.

    • Next is at the bottom of the tablet.

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    • Overview

    • Disconnect Sound connector.

    • Unscrew remaining PCBs

    • carefully unplug battery connector (under copper plate)

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    • You'll have to (CAREFULLY) pop the power button (and maybe volume button) out of place so you do not rip the ribbon cable when removing the PCB. I used a tiny flat-head screwdriver.

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    • Pic 1 - PCBs removed. Screen assembly and frame only.

    • The screen is only held on with some adhesive so (CAREFULLY) pry them apart. Using a heat gun to loosen the adhesive is HIGHLY recommended to avoid cracking the LCD while separating. The adhesive runs around the entire LCD frame. It's the adhesive that holds the LCD to the digitizer, not the metal frame. Try not to pry against the screen.

    • Pic 2 - Screen assembly only.

    • Carefully peel silver tape off of black tape.

    • Starting at the right (in the picture) peel up the black tape. Be careful! The power ribbon cable for the backlight is hidden under at the left side. See next step for location of connection.

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    • Pic 1 - LCD (left) backlight panel (right)

    • Pic 2 - LCD PCB, note backlight connector at right

    • Pic 3 - Backlight panel connector.

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    • Be careful when removing LCD and when reassembling tablet. not sure when it happened, but apparently I was not careful enough when putting it back together, and this happened. Works perfectly fine otherwise. (Heat gun was not used).

    • It's best to remove all of the adhesive residue from the LCD if you are going to re-use the LCD. Then apply new double sided adhesive (the rubberized kind) for a good "permanent" seal.

    • Be aware there are several different digitizers used in these tablets. If you purchase a replacement digitizer you must get the exact matching part or your digitizer won't work properly.

    • There are also several different revisions of LCD's. Best to get the matching one to avoid any potential problems.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Hope this helped a bit.

I Could not find a guide, so I figured I'd make my own.

Tinte & Feder

B0NK3R5

Mitglied seit: 18/11/12

566 Reputation

30 Kommentare

How can i take off the digitizer from the LCD ? I cant take it off ?

Matthias -

So you are on step 7?

The digitizer is the whole front panel. The LCD is sandwiched between that and the backlight. (The big white panel)

Around the edge, the backlight sort of clips into the frame. Try using a small blade screwdriver to pop the clips.

B0NK3R5 -

OK i found the problem an done the rest but the tablet didnt start. I think ther is a problem with the cabel´s but i can´t find it. When i push 2 cabels on the backside the screen works but the Touch didn´t work . What is the Problem ? I have buyed this Part

http://www.ebay.de/itm/321001110973?ssPa... . It is the right part for my Asus TF 300 but why zhe touch doesent work

Matthias -

Did you connect the ribbon cables to the main board?

B0NK3R5 -

Yes i connected the ribbon cabels to the Mainboard. I think one cabel is damaged . It is possibel that the cabels from the digitizer are not working , because the LCD is working when i push on one connector but the digitizer doesnt work .

Matthias -

The LCD is working but its very dark , is it possibel that i have damaged the sensor ?

The digitizer works in parts , not complete . What is the problem with the digitizer , i have checked all ribbon cabels , i found one damaged , but i fixed it ,then the LCD works but very dark , but the touch dosen´t work complete .

Matthias -

LCD would be dark if the backlight is not connected. Not sure about the digitizer.

B0NK3R5 -

All ribbon cabels are connected , is it possibel that the cabel for the backlight is damaged too ? How could i find it out ? What you think about the digitizer . Could it be the Mainboard who is damagaded or the cabels or the Digitizer ?

Matthias -

I am sorry. I do not know. This is just a disassembly guide.

B0NK3R5 -

can you say me where is can get cabels for the Asus

Matthias -

Excellent disassembly guide! Might I suggest that for removal of the digitizer from the LCD that you include a blade of some sort to tool list? I found that, when added to the hair dryer ("heat gun"), to be so much easier than just waiting for the adhesive to melt.

Aaron Pearce -

Thanks!

Added!

B0NK3R5 -

Hi.

I opened my tf300tg and removed all of the cables, but i connected the of LCD panel again and after that it slowly lost its light and now don't show anything. now its black but its working and when i plug it to PC it is active and alive.

I'm sure that all cables and connections are connected.

what happened to the LCD panel? can i fix it or i have to buy a new panel for it? is it because i connected when it was parted?

Hasan -

Zdravim, chcem sa spýtať či neviete ohladom typu touch panelu či je potrebné aj to posledné označenie 1210?

Celé označenie je:

ASUS Transformen Pad TF300T a typ displaya: 5158N FPC-1 06WW 1210

Lebo všade na eBay je uvadzané len bez toho posledneho štvorčislia..

Ja len aby som nekúpil druhý..

Lubos Smilka -

This guide is dangerous! Unless you turn off the service switch before pulling any cables you risk burning coils and components on the motherboard and pcbs. The service switch is located just to the left of the power switch. I also recommend removing the heatsink and pulling the battery cable to be on the even safer side. Just be careful to put the heatsink back exactly where it was and don't wipe off the contact paste.

It is unnecessary to remove the motherboard and pcb. Just unscrew the 28 screws around the frame, disconnect lcd and digitizer and remove the whole assembly.

If you are just changing the LCD it is no need to remove the metal frame and adhesive. You will just end up cracking the LCD and/or the digitizer. Just carefully unclip the lcd from the metal frame. Hold hand behind the lcd and flip over the whole screen putting the lcd in you hand.

Look at my guide here for disassembly for changing the digitizer:

http://www.snart.com/replacing-tf300t-di...

lars -

hi lars

I'm Marco from Italy

I'm a technician and I would to know what touch is perfect for my tf300t...

i have a tf300t with g01 touch connector that doesn't work, the touch is intact but I don't now if the Last owner tried to change the glass screen.. so i TRY to connect like a test with an other touch 5158n for t300t but in this case it doesn't work..

would be nice extract a cod from the mother board to be sure what touch code it need this tablet.

Marco Zavatta -

you say switch it off. But I cant seem to find a way to do that. there are no moving parts. how did you actually switch it off?

celticmotorworks -

Please help : Replaced screen "5158N FPC-1 06WW 1210" with a "5158N FPC-1 06WW 1225". Is this a big difference? I thought being a 5158N FPC-1 was enough.

Then after setting it up, I don't see anything in screen. I know device is on, because makes noise when unplugging it, and I can navigate folders when plugged to a computer. And left out a little piece (magnet double metal square piece, of 1 cm approx) is out of its place. Don't know where it goes now .... Please could you help me in any way? thanks in advance!

https://instagram.com/p/zoXuzsvH-Q/

Maurice -

I try with a 5158n in to a g01 and it not works

Marco Zavatta -

Hi! Awesome guide dude!

Just a simple question. I lost my SKU (serial number) of mi tf300t. Can you see when you opened the machine? Thanks in advance!

Dani yo -

My heatsink was already loose and just fell off after opening the back. What can I use to re-stick? Whatever material was holding it in place before isnt so strong anymore.,

Michael Wolff -

Most likely thermal adhesive or thermal glue was used to allow the heatsink to bond to the processor.

Van -

So are memory, processor, battery replaceable in this model?

termitek12 -

Yes the battery is replaceable, but not the memory and processor unless you replace the entire board these are located on.

Van -

I choose 3M double sided adhesive and the operating temperatures are as follows:

Operating Temperature Range (Celsius) Long Term (Days-Weeks) 90 Degrees C (194 Degrees F)

Operating Temperature Range (Celsius) Short Term (Minutes-Hours) 120 Degrees C (248 Degrees F)

A non-digital heatgun has a minimum temperature of 750 Degrees F and a maximum of 1000 Degrees F, which is obviously to hot even if you can increase the range to reduce temperature. The digital heat gun I bought has a miminium of 250 Degrees F and a maximum of 1350 Degrees F, but is that still to hot or is the lowest setting just about right.

Van -

Also the Temporary Product Data Sheet says:

Hot Splicing (BTM 220) In excess of 170 Degress C (338 Degrees F) (test program on-going)

1 k/sq in (1.25 Kg/230 mm x 25 mm test area),

overlap shear, held for 60 seconds

However, does this mean this is the temperature I should melt it at or set my heat gun to. What does this mean?

Van -

I just took my friend advice and went over the piece for a few seconds on the lowest setting. However, when I got it back together I realized I was missing the piece between the digitizer and the frame, which is the plastic digitizer frame bezel. Now I have to wait for that to arrive, so I keep everyone here posted as to how it turns out. I could try it without it, but I left my charger at a friends house, so until i get it back there nothing I can do to make it turn on because the battery is dead.

Van -

Is the WIFI/BT replaceable?

Ubaidul Khan -

Is it possible to replace the audio-plug and if yes where may I get it?

mhamiliu -

i accidently broke the backlight led cable ribbon!! any chance where i can get that led ribbon

Vinay Rajput -