Fairphone 1 Ohrhörer/Lautsprecher ersetzen

Schritt 1

Auf der Seite des Smartphones ist weit unten an der Rückabdeckung eine kleine Einkerbung.
Mit der Einkerbung als Hebel, benutze deinen Fingernagel um den unten Teil der Rückabdeckung wegzuhebeln.

Schritt 2

Lass die Rückabdeckung nach unten gleiten und entferne sie vom Smartphone.

Schritt 3

An der Rückseite des Fairphones ist gleich inter dem Akku eine kleine Einkerbung.
Fahre mit dem Fingernagel in diese Einkerbung, um den Akku in Richtung Oberseite des Fairphones zu drücken.
Ziehe den Akku heraus und weg vom Fairphone.

Schritt 5

Schiebe die SIM-Karte einfach mit deinem Finger nach oben aus dem Steckplatz.
Entferne die SIM-Karte aus deinem Fairphone.
Wiederhole diesen Vorgang, wenn du eine zweite SIM-Karte entfernen möchtest.
Entferne in jedem Fall alle SIM-Karten, bevor du dein Fairphone wartest.

Schritt 6

Wenn du eine microSD-Karte hast, schiebe sie einfach mit deinem Finger nach oben aus dem Steckplatz.
Entferne die microSD-Karte aus deinem Fairphone.

Schritt 7

Entferne die fünf 3,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben (Phillips #000), mit denen der Mittelrahmen an der Displayeinheit befestigt ist.

The three upper -next to the SIM blocks- screws are a bit longer that the three others. It is important to keep them like this because if not, they will not tight to the whole.

Jaime Bosque Torrecilla - 16/06/15

There are only 5 screws. I see none longer than others.

Viktor Steiner - 31/01/16

You're right, I've just done it and it's true. Thanks!

Aiala - 20/03/16

Schritt 8

Der Mittelrahmen ist mit mehreren kleinen Plastikclips an der Displayeinheit festgemacht.
Heble den Mittelrahmen mit einem Opening Pick vorsichtig weg von der Displayeinheit.
Beginne unter dem Lautstärke-Wippschalter und fahre weiter bis zum unteren Teil des Smartphones und öffne alle Plastikclips an der Seite.

No need to be TOO careful. Just remove the whole thing, no stress.

clem - 23/06/14

Some stupid person put a sticker on the fifth screw. If you can not find the fifth screw, check if there are any BLACK (yes, black) stickers on top of them. Also, which 'designer' made the first design choice for plastic clips? I WILL FIND YOU. AND KILL YOU. *!&*^#% stupidest way to affirm or secure something!

maggelo - 31/10/15

It must be done very carefully: I'd broken both white pieces. Hope has no consequences ...

Aiala - 20/03/16

You also can start from the interior (white pieces all around batterie place)

remy.carl.fr - 05/05/17

Schritt 9

Gehe vorsichtig um die Ecke und trenne den Mittelrahmen von der Displayeinheit.

Schritt 10

Nachdem du um die nächste Ecke bist, sollte der Mittelrahmen unten und an den Seiten frei sein.

Schritt 11

Heble mit dem Opening Pick an der oberen Spalte.
Um zu vermeiden, dass sich die Opening Picks biegen oder kaputt gehen, heble nicht nahe des Einschaltknopfes, des USB Anschlusses oder der Kopfhörerbuchse.

Schritt 12

Entferne die übrigen Clips und entferne den Mittelrahmen vom Smartphone.

Schritt 13

Entferne den Lautstärke-Wippaschalter und die Einschalttasten mit einer Pinzette von der Displayeinheit.
Beim Wiederzusammenbau gehe sicher, dass die Tasten richtig ausgerichtet sind. Die Gumirücken müssen in die Kanäle in der Einheit passen.

Schritt 14

Trenne mit der flachen Spitze eines Spudgers den Antennenkabelanschluss.
Gehe sicher, dass du nur den Anschluss aus seiner Fassung entfernst, aber nicht die vollständige Fassung vom Board.

If you´re replacing the screen you don´t need to disconnect the antenna cable. You can take apart the motherboard, the doughterboard and tha cable together.

Pacarlas -

Well, I actually broke the socket. Does anyone know if it can be fixed?

thanks

Yoel Schouten Moral - 25/08/14

I broke it too, what to do now?

jakob - 12/06/15

What is the thing left of the camera, below the CC \n TC logo printed on the board?

Luther Blisset - 10/09/14

Yep, no need to remove the antenna connectors if you're replacing the display.

Smorgasbord - 24/03/15

Schritt 15

Entferne das Klebeband mit einer Pinzette oben von der Digitizer Kabel Nullkraftfassung (ZIF).

no adhesive foam on my fairphone

Sebastian Chica - 09/06/16

Thank you so much for this amazing tutorial! it works and looks great again!!!

Sebastian Chica - 09/06/16

foam tape is black on mine

Ron Ottervanger - 22/01/17

Schritt 16

Schlage die Schlaufe des Digitizer ZIF-Steckers umzuschlagen.
Bewege das Digitizer Kabel mit einer Pinzette weg von ihrer Fassung auf dem Motherboard.

Schritt 17

Entferne die drei 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben (Phillips #000), mit denen das Motherboard an der Displayheit befestigt ist.

Schritt 18

Versuche nicht das Motherboard jetzt schon zu entfernen, da es immer noch an der Displayeinheit durch das Display Datenkabel festgemacht ist.
Hebe vorsichtig das obere Ende des Motherboards an, um das Display Datenkabel sichtbar zu machen.
Die hintere Kamera kann mit recht starkem Kleber an der Displayeinheit befestigt sein. Achte darauf sie gemeinsam mit dem Motherboard hochzuhebeln, da sie sonst beschädigt werden kann.

I had to use a spudger to take off the camera. Not an easy job since it was glued quite well.

Jan Boonen - 25/10/14

"mild" adhesive?? Camera is glued pretty well!

AJ Molenaar - 27/10/14

First: English isn't my mothertongue, so please excuse mistakes.

I also lost the camera. But it wasn't a problem. At the end of step 28 it was quiet easier to pry the camera without being careful about the motherboard. Only the reverse was done at step 18 again. I put the camera inside the hole and closed the connector for the data. After that I connected the motherboard again with the display and put all together back. So everything was at its right place.

At the End everything was perfect. I'm as pleased as punch!

Ulrike Jasmin Schad - 21/01/15

This was probably the toughest part. It took it's time to remove the camera from the old assembly. As mentioned in earlier comments, it was glued rather well. Be really careful since there is a data cable connecting the camera to the motherboard, and you won't be able to see it that easily.

Smorgasbord - 24/03/15

I took off the camera with the tweezers and thus I had no problem to remove it.

Werner Lauckner - 09/06/15

Possible camera fix after damage while extracting: I too had a well stuck camera, and I damaged the camera while separating it from its small metal plate. The tape holding the plate to the chassis was less strong than the tape affixing the camera to the small plate. The camera seems to consist of a sensor (housed in the silver cube), and its lens (the black plastic bit that separated itself from the cube). The lens is still attached to the sensor by four springy bits of wire which I'm guessing control a magnet which causes the lens to move a bit for focusing. I'm guessing that one of those wires have been damaged and therefor the lens is hanging in its most relaxed state. If you poke the lens carefully with the tip of the spudger you will see that it is kind of swimming in there.

Daniel - 05/01/16

The effect of this is that the lens is stuck in macro mode. Things that are very close will be in focus. A workaround to get the lens to have a fixed focus on around 1 meter to infinity, is to get the lens to push back as deep in the direction of the sensor as possible. This could be accomplished with crazy glue, or similar. I found a rubber washer small enough to not block the lens, which forces it back when the midframe is reattached.

Daniel - 05/01/16

You can actually fix the focus more towards infinity by screwing the inner lens part clockwise.

Samuli Kaipiainen - 06/09/16

Lifting the motherboard without breaking the camera module is the most critical step.

I used tweezers to loosen the camera module from the display assembly.

It worked best for me to lift the motherboard slightly (!), so I could see the base of the camera module, and then carefully separate the camera from the metal part that it is glued to.

Have a good lock at the pictures, so you know where the camera module ends and you don't end up breaking the camera module into pieces, instead of taking it off the base.

I had to push the camera module connector back in again, as it came loose slightly.

Everything worked out fine in the end.

Dino - 17/01/16

Schritt 19

Trenne das Display Datenkabel mit einem Spudger von der Rückseite des Motherboards.

In this step I found the rear camera unit glued to the display part. It was easy to take it apart and connect it again to the motherboard but at te first moment I was scared.

Pacarlas -

Yeah, please make sure you don't remove the socket, cause I did it, and after that it's a pain in the !@# to put back. If unfortunatly it happens, remember that the two points on each side of the sockets should be align vertically (from the phone point of view) and the line to the side closer to the phone side.

clem - 23/06/14

In my case the camera also stayed glued to the display part. In fact that was no problem - just leave it connected to its metal pad and take both off together (in my case the metal pad was only midly adhesive to the display part). When reassembling just take off the metal pad from the new display and put in place the old metal pad with the camera on.

eml - 11/01/15

It was a good hint to take out the camera and the metal pad together. It worked perfectly well and in the end it was much easier to separate the camera from the old metal pad and to glue the camera on the new pad.

Mrs Adams - 25/01/15

when re-connecting the (new) screen to the motherboard, you have to watch out to carefully re-connect the display datacable. the two parts fit neetly together and is has to do a little "click"-feeling when the connection was succesful.

ksend - 23/01/17

I reconnected the screen to the motherboard by cutting a small rectangle of cardboard and slide it under the display connector to lift it a little bit. Then you can lay down the mainboard connector on top of it and press it down. It will click in place. Next, slightly lift the topside of the mainboard to remove the cardboard with a pair of tweezers.

jeroen.hilgers - 14/02/17

Schritt 20

Entferne das Motherboard von der Displayeinheit.

My camera stayed glued to the metal frame. I had to take it of seperately.

Tijs Dekker - 26/08/14

Schritt 21

Der Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher ist auf der Rückseite der Displayeinheit mit etwas Kleber angebracht.
Heble den Lautsprecher mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers von der Displayeinheit hoch.
Entferne den Lausprecher.

The earpiece speaker may have a 'rubber ring' glued to the front side. The new display assembly will probably have one of these already installed in the earpiece socket, covered with a protective orange ring. I peeled the old 'rubber ring' from the old earpiece, and then put the earpiece into the new display assembly. Old ring went back into the old display. But I guess you could put the new ring into the old assembly, and then you don't have to peel the earpiece apart...

Tim Sparks - 09/11/14

I somehow managed to break the speaker in this step (It was my first repair ever) .. Got a new one for less than 2€ at the fairphone parts shop, replaced it and it works now.

Stefan Tzeggai - 10/05/15