Einleitung

Use this guide to remove the vibration motors in your Google Stadia controller.

Although you don't need special tools to open the Google Stadia controller, the opening process is difficult and requires a lot of force. The case of the controller is held together by super tight plastic clamps which require a tool solid enough to withstand the pressure it takes to pry them open. Take your time and try not to get frustrated during the opening procedure—otherwise you're likely to scratch or otherwise damage your controller.

  1. xGLInpUoYhIg4ryQ
    • Apply a heated iOpener to the rear side of the Stadia controller where the screw cover is located to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least two minutes.

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    • Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap between the plastic screw cover and the rear case of the controller.

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    • Slide the opening pick along the screw cover to slice the adhesive.

    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the screw cover.

    • You might want to replace the screw cover adhesive during reassembly. Apply a bit of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to a Q-tip or use a cleaning pad to gently remove the leftover adhesive on the rear cover of the controller before installing new adhesive.

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    • Use a Torx T8 screwdriver to remove the 9.6 mm-long screw securing the rear case.

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    • The front cover assembly of the Stadia controller is held in place by various tight plastic clamps. They are very hard to open and snap back in place easily.

    • The opening procedure requires some force, however, try to avoid damaging your controller case along the way.

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    • Insert a Jimmy into the gap between the front and back cover assembly at the inside of the left controller handle.

    • To make sure you insert the Jimmy at the correct position where the clamps are located, you can use this photo.

    • Tilt the Jimmy upwards and push it into the gap between the covers at the same time to pry open the plastic clamp. You should hear a clack noise once the clamp pops open.

    • Once the clamp is completely open, the gap between the two controller covers should be about 2-3 mm wide.

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    • Insert an opening pick in a steep angle into the gap you created to prevent the first clamp from popping back into its closed position.

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    • To make sure you insert the Jimmy at the correct position where the clamps are located, you can use this photo.

    • Insert a Jimmy into the gap between the front and back cover assembly at the outside of the left bottom end of the controller handle.

    • Repeat the previous opening procedure to open the three plastic clamps at the outside of the left controller handle.

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    • Insert a Jimmy into the gap between the front and back cover assembly between the left shoulder button and the charging port at the top edge of the Stadia controller.

    • Tilt the Jimmy upwards and push it into the gap between the covers at the same time to pry open the plastic clamp. You should hear a clack noise once the clamp pops open.

    • Repeat the previous procedure at the clamp between the right shoulder button and the charging port.

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    • Insert a Jimmy into the gap between the front and back cover assembly at the right edge of the right controller handle.

    • Repeat the previous opening procedure to open the three plastic clamps at the outside of the right controller handle.

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    • Insert a Jimmy into the gap between the front and back cover assembly at the inside of the right controller handle.

    • Repeat the previous opening procedure to open plastic clamps at the inside of the left controller handle.

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    • Insert a Jimmy into the gap between the front and back cover assembly at the bottom edge of the Stadia controller right to the headphone jack.

    • Tilt the Jimmy upwards and push it into the gap between the covers at the same time to pry open the plastic clamp.

    • Repeat the previous procedure at the clamp left to the headphone jack.

    • Do not try to remove the front cover assembly all the way yet. It's still connected to the rear cover assembly.

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    • Avoid straining the front cover assembly cable during this step.

    • Carefully lift the front cover assembly and fold it to the left side of the Google Stadia controller.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel the clear protective tape off the ZIF connector on the left side of the rear case.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to open the ZIF connector holding the button contact board cable in place.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully disconnect the flex cable of the button unit by pulling it out of the ZIF connector in a flat angle.

    • Separate the front from the rear assembly.

    • Remove the thumbsticks by pulling them straight upwards for an easier handling in case you want to do further disassembly.

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    • Use a Torx T8 screwdriver to remove the seven 9.6 mm-long screws securing the motherboard assembly.

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    • The motherboard assembly is held in place at four points in the controller's rear cover.

    • Make sure to use the long and not the curved edge of the Jimmy during the following prying procedure.

    • Insert a Jimmy next to the right shoulder button and black plastic clamp of the motherboard assembly.

    • Align the long edge of the Jimmy with the corner of the black plastic clamp.

    • Pry up the motherboard assembly by tilting the Jimmy downwards to open the plastic clamp.

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    • Insert a Jimmy next to the left shoulder button and black plastic clamp of the motherboard assembly.

    • Align the long edge of the Jimmy with the corner of the black plastic clamp.

    • Pry up the motherboard assembly by tilting the Jimmy downwards to open the plastic clamp.

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    • Insert a Jimmy at the top edge of the Google Stadia controller just above the charging port.

    • Pry up the top edge of the motherboard assembly by tilting the Jimmy downwards.

    • The charging port is clamped into an opening in the rear cover of the stadia controller. Make sure the charging port is not stuck in its recess during the prying procedure.

    • During reassembly make sure the charging port snaps back into its recess.

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    • Insert an opening pick at the top edge of the Stadia controller to prevent the charging port from snapping back into place.

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    • In the following step you'll free the headphone jack from its recess in the controller housing:

    • Avoid prying onto the black plastic cover during the following procedure.

    • Pry at the edge of the motherboard instead.

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    • Insert a Jimmy into the gap between the rear cover and the motherboard left of the headphone jack.

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    • Pry up the motherboard assembly by tilting the Jimmy downwards.

    • The headphone jack is clamped into an opening in the rear cover of the controller. Make sure the headphone jack is not stuck in its recess during the prying procedure.

    • During reassembly make sure the headphone jack snaps back into its recess.

    • Do not try to remove the motherboard assembly all the way yet. It is still connected to the rear cover by the battery cable.

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    • Carefully lift the left edge of the motherboard assembly in order to access the battery connector.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the battery cable from the motherboard.

    • Separate the rear cover from the motherboard assembly.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the right vibration motor by pulling its connector straight out of its socket.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully free the cable out the plastic hook of the midframe.

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    • Apply a heated iOpener to the rear side of the right vibration motor to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least two minutes.

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    • In the following procedure, hold the vibration motor housing as close to the motor as possible. Otherwise it could bend or break off.

    • Lift the plastic housing of the right vibration motor about 1.5 cm above your workspace.

    • Use a spudger to press against the vibration motor through the gap in the plastic housing.

    • Separate the vibration motor from its housing.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the left vibration motor by pulling its connector straight out of its socket.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully free the cable out the plastic hook of the midframe.

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    • Apply a heated iOpener to the rear side of the left vibration motor to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least two minutes.

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    • In the following procedure, hold the vibration motor housing as close to the motor as possible. Otherwise it could bend or break off.

    • Lift the plastic housing of the left vibration motor about 1.5 cm above your workspace.

    • Use a spudger to press against the vibration motor through the gap in the plastic housing.

    • Separate the vibration motor from its housing.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Mitglied seit: 23/11/16

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