HP TouchPad Front Panel Replacement

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
  • Kommentare: 12
HP TouchPad Front Panel Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

13

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Use this guide to replace a cracked front panel.

  1. vW5dNdscmYNMe2ab

    • In the following steps, you will use a metal spudger to lift the front panel out from the rear case of your TouchPad.

    • The front panel is held in by seven clips (boxed in red) that are lightly anchored to the rear case. When you remove the front panel assembly, you are bound to break either the clips or their supports attached to the rear case. We will update this guide as we find replacement parts or a better method to remove the panel.

    • As you remove the front panel assembly, also be careful not to damage the ambient light sensor (boxed in yellow) or the two antennas (boxed in orange).

    Beware of the ribbon cable right beneath the volume rocker, as it's easy to shear that cable if you are too rough with the metal spudger.

    Michael Innes -

    I wasn’t happy with using a metal spudger as it felt a bit forceful, as I have a bulk pack of opening tools I tried using them instead.

    I may have been lucky, but by using those tools instead with the angled lip facing inwards at points adjacent to where the mounting clips are located according to the above image (like this, https://i.imgur.com/dylp6BG.jpg ), I managed to open the unit without breaking a clip or scratching the plastic back panel by bending the outside of the panel enough to pop the lcd panel.

    Michael Sim -

  2. wxeqBWMTsMiRaENj

    • Insert a flat metal spudger in the gap between the rubber outer ring on the front panel assembly and the black plastic rear case near the USB connector.

    • Pry the front panel assembly up from the rear case, being careful not to damage the LCD or the glass panel.

    • As you work through the following steps, insert your metal spudger and pry the front panel up, but do not try to slide the spudger along the gap you're creating. Always remove your spudger, then insert it at another spot and pry upward.

  3. GuoFmSTfKkT3JVHm
    GuoFmSTfKkT3JVHm
    w6OZoOQubpQhxR2F

    • As in the previous step, use a spudger to pry the front panel up from the rear case along its long edge on the volume button side of the TouchPad.

    • Continue to pry the front panel assembly up along the volume button side of the TouchPad until there is a gap between it and the rear case.

  4. gYhcVXPcLDpJoUBc
    gYhcVXPcLDpJoUBc
    Ye4p3R1QoxntiprU

    • Pry up the front panel assembly along the top edge of the TouchPad.

    • Be careful not to damage the ambient light sensor or the upper antenna.

  5. sSFmTCiXKFGPOEs4

    • Pry up the front panel along the edge closest to the home screen button.

  6. PNJbrVIpDknpPg6X
    PNJbrVIpDknpPg6X
    twCSdgQueP1rdBFC

    • Before lifting the free side of the front panel up from the rear case, you may need to release it from the plastic retaining clips holding it down.

    • Use your metal spudger to pull the stuck retaining clips away from the edge of the front panel.

  7. nUSw1VMZhm2DAQ1J

    • After freeing the retaining clips, lift the front panel assembly away from the rear case.

    • Do not try to remove the front panel assembly from the TouchPad just yet, as it is still connected to the motherboard.

  8. NKkwcAHEV5P2QjZO

    • Use the attached black tab to pull the display data cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Pull the cable upwards and not parallel to the face of the motherboard. Doing otherwise may damage the socket on the motherboard.

    • Take care not to pull on the ribbon that is stuck by adhesive to the bottom of cable you are detaching. It does not need to be disconnected.

    The ribbon can be adhered to other parts placed under it. You'll have to separate them tighly so you don't damage the ribbon.

    Laurent -

  9. wBNuqMEChGAKhfUa
    wBNuqMEChGAKhfUa
    5AttMtgRpxoK25em
    D1UAPfkTOp1VRRno

    • Use your fingernail to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves.

    • Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the motherboard.

  10. HyIPhGSrEhVpBm3U

    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case assembly.

  11. iAFUoUGFsduGXYQ3

    • Remove the six 2.2 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the front panel.

  12. SJ2QNuUthRZ6M6eJ
    SJ2QNuUthRZ6M6eJ
    TkHQCIjGm2Xjd2DB

    • Lift up the LCD assembly and remove it from the front panel.

  13. empbGxxfQD1KSnSH

    • Front panel remains.

    I started to pry the glass panel from the plastic frame but when I realized it was double sided tape I used a heat gun to soften the tape and that made it easier to pry the glass off without it shattering and splintering into tiny shards.

    To those who don't have a heat gun maybe a hair dryer would work or leaving it in direct sunlight for a while if it's hot enough outside may do the trick.

    Another tactic, and I say this with a HUGE disclaimer of DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK, involves putting it in an oven at a low temp for a while to soften the tape and make it easier to remove the glass.

    Carl Gutierrez -

    If you're replacing the glass and removing it from the plastic frame, be sure to save the home button! Its just a little rubber piece that is free floating, and its very easy to overlook and toss.

    Justin McIntyre -

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

7 Kommentare

The new glass touch panel I was able to purchase on ebay did not have the black plastic frame with the rubber gasket around it attached. It was just the glass with the interface cable attached. I had to use a Spudger to slide between the broken glass panel and the original plastic frame to separate them. They are stuck together by a very tough double sided sticky tape. After thoroughly cleaning the residual sticky tape from the plastic frame, I used gorilla glue epoxy to glue the plastic frame to to the new glass panel. It appears to be holding but I will know after a bit of use.

kkuhler -

Wow, sounds like we are on parallel paths !

I just finished mine within 18 hours of yours, a process over several days.

I opted to use a silicone adhesive in case I needed to peel it back again.

But I removed the frame just as you have described.

I also taped off the button hole and camera hole to keep the silicone based glue off of that area while I spread it.

Be careful not to lose or damage that button as you separate the frame from the glass, and put it back when mounting/gluing the frame.

The silicone is a little high on the button side and the button is now recessed slightly, but still works. Also a word on the inside of the glass to protect it well during the process as you want it really clean when you marry it with the LCD.

Overall I'm happy with the recovery.

Good luck with yours !

myplace -

does anyone know what to do in the event that some of the connectors break? Can I replace them? Is it even possible to find replacements?

andrewholland7 -

Had 100% immersion in water so had to open up to dry out.

First off the tablet is hard to orient to the pictures above. In Step 1, the volume up down control is in the UPPER LEFT. Then in Step 2, the tablet is rotated clockwise 180 degrees and the volume up down control is in the BOTTOM RIGHT. The Step 1 diagram is best. Avoid the indicated sensitive areas!

Opening the unit requires significant force. All 7 clips were are destroyed. There is no way it goes back together without glue, sticky tape or some type of replacement clips.

I worked from the top of Step 1, cracking the top open first (4 clips) then the the sides (3 more clips) ALL WHILE LEAVING THE BOTTOM connected. You can only HINGE the top open about 20 degrees before you are stressing the cables (2 Ribbon) and one plug in. There is nowhere near enough slack in those cables to open top and bottom 180 degrees flat. If you "rip it open" there is a strong chance you will damage the ribbon cable and/or connector which are "light duty" to be sure!

Rick -

...continued

Unit went 100% underwater, while on, 110 F, and was under for about 10 seconds max. Then powered off immediately. Attempted to blow out water by injecting air through case cut outs and draining through others. however that was incomplete. Screen still splotchy. On opening noted about 20 remaining droplets inside. Used more compressed air. Followed up with slight warming/drying with a hair dryer. Did NOT opt to remove the battery. All dry in about :20 min then reassemble. Ribbon cable highly problematic. Slight misalignment and fold downs are light duty at best. They don't lock in tight. Difficult to get both cables in and lids closed. Tried reusing clips but could not make any work. Currently have the unit with nothing holding it together. Tablet is functional but far from perfect. Screen often looks very faded with near zero contrast. Touch response questionable. Screen still splotchy. Yet that mostly resolves after a while, except for the splotchy when illuminated vs. black screen. :(

Rick -

O.K mine was not taped together at all. Believe they only use plastic clips at the factory. I did however opt for tape to ultimately stick it back together. 3M Scotch indoor mounting tape rated at 2lbs. 1.38 yards or 1,27m x 25,4mm. Purchased at Walmart in the hardware section for less than $3. I cut three strips avoiding all sensitive areas. I also cut the width in half, about 12 mm to avioid sticking to the electronics. Not sure if a re open would cause damage? BTW,, it takes 4" at regular width to hold 2 lbs so its questionable if this will do it? So far its working great! :-)

Rick -

Hi, My HP Touchpad is water logged and left portion of screen is not responsive to touch. The one inch portion the left side if touchpad screen is not responsive. is there any fix?

Dhanu G -