How to fix a Kindle Voyage stuck in a boot loop

Geschrieben von: Merlin04
  • Kommentare: 14
How to fix a Kindle Voyage stuck in a boot loop

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

13

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

If your Kindle Voyage is stuck in a boot loop, this might fix it. However, it is somewhat challenging and involves soldering, so make sure you read the entire guide before beginning.

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    • Insert a plastic opening tool between the plastic panel shown on the device.

    • Use the tool to pry the plastic away from the device.

    • There will be adhesive holding this piece of plastic to the device. You may have to pull pretty hard to get it separated.

    This is not the best way to do this. The plastic panel snaps in on the lower/center part and slides into notches in the top. When you do as this instructs it breaks the tabs that connect on the top. If you can slide a few of the guitar picks into the lower part and get all the glue disconnected and get it to get past the snaps on the bottom you can then slide it upward and remove it without damaging the panel.

    sam -

    Thank you for a very helpful hint

    baggins -

    Definitely agree with this, and would clarify a bit. If the piece to be removed is at the top of the Kindle, the only purchase for the Opener Tool is the seam along the top edge. Start at either corner, and pry just enough to insert a pick, and repeat the process to work your way along the slanted edge towards the bottom edge; the adhesive releases easily. Continue along the bottom edge, then lift the bottom edge clear of its retainers. The whole piece can then easily be slid off.

    gring40 -

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    • Use an aluminum driver attached with a Phillips head size #00 to remove the four 3mm screws shown in the picture. For reassembly, note that the top two and bottom two screws are different sizes.

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    • Once the screws are removed, the back panel can slide off the device.

    Why is step 4 needed? The magnetic component doesn’t appear to be in the way of the battery replacement. Is the magnetic component just sitting on the posts (without screws attaching)? Will any magnet work to remove it? Is there any electrical connection to this component?

    John -

    There is no electrical connection, it is just sitting there. It should be removed so that it doesn’t fall out during the rest of the repair.

    Merlin04 -

    I’ve tackled apparently more complicated jobs on iMac, MacBook and iPhone, but this one has defeated me! I can’t complete step 3 the panel simply will not slide off.

    Graham Miles -

    Correction, tried some more. After one and a half hours of struggling I finally managed to slide the cover off. Now tht it’s been done once, it slides on and off easily.Just putting this here in case others have the same problem - persevere. In principle the job’s an easy one.

    Graham Miles -

    If the old battery swells, as mine did, the board will not slide out of the case. Too much pressure exerted on the case from the swollen battery.

    I had to separate the two halves of the case.

    Robert Sauve -

    Case hard to slide off for me as well. Found that some double-sticky tape on the magnetic part overlapped the case and had to be carefully sliced. Was able to budge the case enough to give the opening tool purchase near the charge port, and pry that way. The case only needs to slide 1/2” or so and then it lifts off.

    gring40 -

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    • Remove the magnetic component with the magnetic head of the aluminum driver.

    This instruction confused me. There is a component above the battery. It’s not held there by anything (no adhesive or fasteners), so you can just take it off. They’re saying to use anything magnetic to pick it up, but you can just use your fingers.

    moec -

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    • Make sure to remove all connectors, then remove all the screws.

    • You should be able to remove the motherboard from the case.

    • Remove the battery connector first.

    why the !&&* should one remove the board just to solder the wires to the freely accessible uart port?!

    Haitham -

    The connector is really close to the lithium battery, so if your soldering iron slips you could damage it. You can solder the wires with the motherboard still installed, I just prefer to take that extra precaution.

    Merlin04 -

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    • The three wires should go on the pads outlined in red.

    • From left to right, the pins are TX, RX, and GND.

    • If you are finding it difficult to solder to the ground pin, try soldering to one of the shields, which would normally be where the blue outline is.

    • Put the motherboard back into the Kindle, but don't re-connect the battery.

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    • Using the resistors, diodes, USB serial adapter, and breadboard wires, build this circuit on the breadboard.

    • If you don't know how to use a breadboard, YouTube is a great place to learn.

    • Sorry for the stupid cropping of the image, iFixit doesn't like it. See the full image at https://www.mobileread.com/forums/showth...

    • Then, using alligator clips, connect the wires on the "kindle" side of the schematic to the appropriate wires from the Kindle.

    Excellent. I believe that this is actually a standard TTL level-shifter for USB to RS232 serial interfacing. I call it an "FTDI cable” because an adapter chip from Future Tech Domain is in widespread use and you can get one built into a USB cable assembly for about USD $5.

    Boyd Waters -

    • Plug your USB serial adapter into the computer.

    • Start your serial terminal program (like Minicom). Make sure to disable "Hardware Flow Control".

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    • Connect the kindle battery.

    • You'll start seeing text in the serial terminal. When it says "Hit any key to stop autoboot" press a key.

    • Type in "bootm 0xE41000 " and press enter.

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    • Tap "U - USB Export" on the screen.

    • Plug your Kindle into your computer through the Kindle's USB port.

    • Download the Kindle firmware from https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/...

    • Open the Kindle drive on your computer and drag the .bin file into it.

    • Eject your Kindle and unplug it from your computer.

    • Press "Q" either onscreen or in your serial terminal.

    • Tap "Reboot or Disable Diags", or type "D"

    • Tap "Reboot System", or type "R"

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    • The Kindle should now be booting into the regular OS.

    • When the serial terminal says "Press [ENTER] for recovery menu...", press enter.

    • Type "u" and quickly follow that with the enter key.

    • Your kindle will restore the firmware you copied over previously.

    • At the end of this process, your Kindle should be showing its bookshelf screen.

    • Unplug the USB to serial adapter, and remove the wires from the kindle.

    • If your wires are thin enough, you may be able to break them away from the pad, but be careful to not tear the pad off.

    • If you can't do that or just want to be safe, remove the motherboard and desolder the wires, then re-install the motherboard.

Abschluss

To complete the repair, close the device by following the process detailed in the beginning in reverse.

Tinte & Feder

Merlin04

Mitglied seit: 25/06/19

169 Reputation

Ein Kommentar

Merlin04, you do an excellent job at breaking down the tasks and guiding a person through the process!!

Jennifer Gehman -