Huawei P9 Lautsprecher austauschen

Geschrieben von: Dominik Schnabelrauch
  • Kommentare: 27
Huawei P9 Lautsprecher austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

6

Zeitaufwand

50 Minuten

Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung, um den Lautsprecher deines Huawei P9 auszutauschen.

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    • Schalte zuerst dein Handy aus und nimm den SIM-Kartenhalter heraus.

    • Entferne die beiden Pentalobe P2 Schrauben unten neben der USB-Buchse.

    • Ist das Glas gesprungen, kannst du mithilfe von etwas Klebeband deine Augen vor Glassplittern schützen, und auch einen besseren Halt bekommen, um das Gerät zu öffnen.

    your supply kit -IFIXIT does not have a screw driver bit small enough to unscrew the two Pentalobe P2 screws for my Huawei Mate P9 pro

    phone. Where can I get help from ?

    Vincent Leung -

    Hi Vincent!

    Our Pentalobe P2 bits work perfectly in the Huawei P9. If you already have a driver handle that has a 4mm socket, you can use one of these bits in it and that should work fine. Otherwise, if you prefer the P2 screwdriver itself, you can find that tool here.

    I hope this helps!

    Kadan Sharpe -

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    • Hebe nicht nur das Display statt der ganzen Smartphone-Einheit heraus, du könntest dadurch das Display beschädigen.

    • Verwende ein iSclack oder Saugheber, um das Rückteil von der Displayeinheit zu trennen.

    • Wenn es dir nicht gelingt, die Smartphone-Einheit aus dem Rückteil herauszuholen, kannst du die Spudgerspitze in die Öffnung der Kopfhörerbuchse einsetzen und die Einheit nach oben drücken, bis ein Spalt zwischen der Einheit und dem Rückteil entstanden ist. Heble dann die Smartphone-Einheit mit dem Spudger aus dem Rückteil heraus.

    • Nimm das Rückteil noch nicht komplett ab. Das Kabel des Fingerabdrucksensors ist noch mit der Displayeinheit verbunden.

    If you cant get suction because of cracks in the screen, use wide tape to create smooth surface.

    Kent Alexander Johansen -

    If your screen is smashed, and nothing else will work (iSclack etc), you can get a thin blade between the casing and the screen assembly and the bottom. The screen assembly can then be pried out. I fought with mine before discovering this. Be careful of the broken glass.

    Rob Collins -

    I struggled to remove screen with suction cups due to damage to the back case. I used a jim to pry from bottom by usb c port, worked well.

    Philip Lloyd -

    Be very carrefull as it can open in one fell swoop !

    Jean-Marc Boisseau -

    On my model, I had 2 Little torx screws beside the USB port. If so, the screen won’t come out with them on.

    Lola Gillet -

    Interesting, sure those were 6-starred (Torx) and not 5-starred (Pentalobe) like mentioned in step 1?

    Tobias Isakeit -

    Are there any tips to help loosen the screen after taking the screws out? I brought in an extra person to help with the suction cup whilst I tried to pry the screen away with it still only moving at most 1mm (maybe less) and not enough to get any pry tools in. Ending up using quite a lot of force - far more than I think I should be to no success. As it stands I’m just ending up doing minor damage to the base of the screen/case.

    A Birch -

    Hey A Birch,

    just for the case, I mention — it’s important to pull out the SIM card tray, otherwise, it will block the opening procedure and you’ll damage your phone. In case the frame is damaged or bent you’ll need more force to open the phone. In general, the opening procedure should be fairly easy.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    On this step, I found it hard as the screen and the motherboard are attatched, but instead just the screen is coming up, any tips for getting under and lifting up the motherboard + battery. (Trying to do a battery replacement). The screen with that wire on Step 15 for some reference :)

    Nathan T -

    Received my kit yesterday and now trying to remove the screen from the case with the suction tool. Having extreme difficulty and cannot even get a pick in to prise it off. Still trying…

    Alan Farrow -

    Found it easy to remove screen from case using the sucker while holding the edge of the case down using the blue spudger that came with the kit. Came off in seconds…

    Alan Farrow -

    If you have difficulty removing the display from the case, make sure to not just remove the screen. Apparently, if the case has received a knock or the motherboard is sticking to the case, it can be very, very difficult to move the motherboard as well as the screen.

    However, the whole screen and motherboard assembly needs to come out. If only the screen moves, chances are the ribbon cable that attaches it to the motherboard may get pulled out of its socket or may even get damaged. I suggest to not use excessive force on the display and be very careful when attempting to pry it open. You need to get a purchase on the whole screen/motherboard unit, not just the screen.

    Using a lever through the USB C port and the hole for the headphone jack may help to get the motherboard assembly moving. Be careful, though to not damage theses parts.

    I think the guide should be amended to point out the possibility of moving the screen only and its associated dangers.

    Thomas Kuehne -

    I found the screen/motherboard very difficult to move. I used the sucker (down near the USB/screw end) and the broad end of the spudger in the USB port (I was careful (I hope!) to not insert the spudger too far so I was just pressing against the case). It needed a lot of force and can away sunddenly but has left the fingerprint cable intact.

    I have looked at other comments and I had removed the 2 screws next to the USB port and the sim tray, it was just plain sticky.

    David Crane -

    I couldn’t remove the screen cause I was afraid to break it!! Also using two suction caps it was impossible to lift. I tried with a thin blade but nothing to do. Is there any “trick” to release it? Why is it so strengthly stuck? Please somebody give some suggests…

    Gabriele Greggio -

    Try to make sure to remove the SIM card tray and the screws at the bottom end of the phone before you try to lift the display, both block the display whilst removing the back cover. For the case that you’re using two suction cups instead of an iSclack, try to place them as close to the bottom edge as possible. For the case that the suction cups fall off easily, you can put a little water on them before pressing them on the phone. As you mentioned you can try using a blade/opening pick/jimmy as a lever during the removal procedure or you can use a tool like a spudger and insert it into the USB port to press the assembly out of the rear cover but take care to avoid damage to the port. The plastic clamps can sit really tight sometimes. In case the frame is damaged or bent you’ll need more force to open the phone.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    PS I spent my money to buy battery and tool kit but if I can’t open it I wasted money believing in this “guide” that show all as a kind of easy DIY… actually it’s easier to make a damage bigger than repair!

    Gabriele Greggio -

    Heating the aluminium back of the phone with a hairdryer to about 60C helps. Aluminium expands more than twice as much as the glass which anyway remains cool away from the hairdryer. Then the suction pliers and the spudger through the 3.5mm audio jack hole finally did the trick. I was about to give up!

    J B Graham -

    I strongly agree with JB Graham : the fix should suggest to heat the phone if you encounter difficulty to open the case. I had to heat it a while until I could make the two parts move with the suction cups.

    pichel -

    I just replaced the battery of the Huawei p9. I had to open the phone using a thick, blunt needle using the headphone jack. After creating a gap, I carefully fulled the phone apart by my fingernails, with no problem whatsoever. No risk of damage doing it this way. Of course, you need to be carefull not to damage the contact pins inside the jack, but at least there is no risk of damaging the screen this way.

    I don’t understand why the suction cups are the preferred method to open the case. They just popped of by applying a scaring amount of force…

    Next time I will immediately use the headphone jack.

    M Brt -

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    • Trenne den Stecker des Fingerabdrucksensors mit einem Spudger ab.

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    • Löse die drei Philips #00 Schrauben.

    • Trenne die Verbindung des Lautsprechers.

    • Entferne die Metallklammer (diese ist mit etwas Klebstoff fixiert).

    when I removed the metal bracket, the headphone jack connector was stuck to the underside of it and came with it, breaking the small ribbon cable. I had to replace the headphone unit…

    facebook2 -

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    • Trenne das Motherboardkabel und das Antennenkabel.

    • Löse die Verbindung der Kopfhörerbuchse.

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    • Entferne das Charging Board.

    • Nun kannst du den Lautsprecher heraus nehmen (er ist leicht eingeklebt).

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

Tinte & Feder

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Mitglied seit: 23/11/16

167773 Reputation

5 Kommentare

Attention, pour un P9 plus, il 4 vis à enlever à l’étape 4 dont 1 est cachée sur un point de peinture. On ne peut pas retirer le cache métallique si on ne l’enlève pas (sa forme est différente de la photo).

Il faut avoir de bons yeux (ce qui n’est pas mon cas) car pour remettre certaines vis ou connecteurs (l’antenne notamment), c’est chaud !

Francis Spiesser -

J’ajouterai que pour l’étape 2, j’ai bien galéré aussi, ça a eu du mal à venir !

Francis Spiesser -

Bonjour Francis, merci beaucoup pour les commentaires bien vus et félicitations pour la réparation réussie ! Vous voilà un expert pionnier du P9 Plus, alors pourquoi pas rédiger le tutoriel correspondant ? Bonne réparation !

Claire Miesch -

My huawei p9 speaker have lost sound at all after heat problem with the device. But charger slot and earphone slot normal. So i removed the speaker with new one, but still no sound. So what the problem, any suggestion. Thank for your attention. Sorry for my bad english.

Mang Dadang -

You may want to check the loudspeaker connector on the daughterboard for corrosion or other kind damages (e.g. bent pin).

Tobias Isakeit -