IMac Intel 21.5 "EMC 2544 Klebestreifen ersetzen

2 Kitchen Paper Towel Rolls do the same job as the Wedge just fine .. :)

Spudger and tweezers couldn’t seem to get enough under the strip to grab. I had to use a low-angle edge of an Xacto blade.

With more than a little manipulation, the strips had a tendency to stretch, so the holes at each end did not quite align.

I agree, line them up gently, don’t pull on the strips too hard or they will stretch.

Don’t pull too hard at all at this or any step similar. The adhesive can stretch, and it will no longer align at the other hole. The goal is just to make sure it isn’t wrinkled.

The info comment makes no sense. If you have to "re-stick it" then you have already peeled off the lower backing strip. If "it" means the upper portion of the strip, the use of a pronoun instead of naming the part specifically is confusing.

For some reason the adhesive strips for the bottom (4L and 4R) have the outer side as black whereas the others are white. A bit disorienting.

when i pull the red tab at least one of the bottom strips always has the wrong side peel off. Poor design.

Yes, all of the other strips go on without problem, but every strip kit I’ve ordered has the 4L and 4R strips reversed (like in the picture). And pulling the red tab usually doesn’t work at all. Why aren’t they just made like the rest of the strips?

Unless my iMac was assembled incorrectly, the 4L and 4R strips are mislabeled and should be reversed . The right angles of the strips should be towards the outer bottom edges of the display. I have photos but not sure how to get them in here.

The picture here doesn’t quite match the currently provided tape kit. You should see two sets of each number, not one number and a bit of blue tape.

It is important to wedge something between the unit and the base so it doesn't swivel down as you are replacing the front cover. An unopened 5 pound sack of flour works fine.

or 2 rolls of kitchen papertowels :)

The display will drop into place when it’s aligned properly. You can also lay the iMac down for this step if you don’t have the wedge.

1.Painter’s tape or masking tape (or low-residue duct tape, which I used) should be on the list of tools and materials.

2. I made strap of tape for a side to prevent the display from hinging open too far.

Make sure the tape is put in place after you’ve got the screen in exactly the right spot! And no tape around the sides, the screen still needs to swing.

Elastoplast also works

If replacing of the adhesive is part of a larger job, where you had to replace the RAM for instance, please make sure that you can plug in the peripherals into the USB, Thunderbolt and the Ethernet. It’s late when you seal the iMac and discover that you can’t plug anything into the USB, because the logic-board has moved 1mm! Also verify that your iSight camera, speakers, wireless, IR and Bluetooth work before sealing.

If you’re doing this as part of a SSD upgrade, don’t forget you have to erase it in Disk Utility before installing or restoring macOS. Don’t panic like I did and almost tear it all down again.

With the iMac resting on its back: Two rolls of masking tape, one roll under each corner of the screen, keep the monitor elevated and supported adequately while you’re working in the middle connecting those cables.

i had to tip the display outward enough for the strip to peel off. Glad it had the tape hinge.

It’s not a good idea to remove insert these two cables twice, when it can be done only once:

BEFORE reattaching the cables, open the screen up to 90 degrees to the machine, and carefully peel off the two bottom strips 4L & 4R.

Being careful not to close the machine any more than is necessary to be able to insert the cables, with the machine wedged & on its stand, wrap a large double loop of low-tack masking tape entirely around both machine & screen, effectively making two “straps” to retain the screen with about a 5” gap at the top enough to access the cables easily. Insert the cables, not forgetting the latch, then test. The two straps of masking tape can then be cut and peeled back out of the way, whilst supporting the screen, before peeling off the remaining plastic strips & closing up the machine. Much easier to get at 4L/4R this way, and you have only done the cable thing 1 time.

At this point, attach a sheet of paper to the screen reminding “Don't forget to connect the data and power cables to the screen!”. It's good for the distracted.

Be careful with these cables, they are very very fragile and not at all designed for multiple disconnection / connection. be assured that they are correctly plugged in, the margin is fine. We can believe that it is well connected but the surpise can be very unpleasant once the screen back in place and glued! Thank you Apple with your glue !

Same here. Put it together before removing the tape cover and it wasn’t plugged in. Opened it up and realized the data cable wasn’t all the way in. I then noticed the cover isn’t just a cover; it’s a hook that flips over the other side of the connector to be sure they are all the way in, and won’t come apart - I was simply flipping it over the top as if it was just a simple flap to lay on top.

Now I know : )

At this step, make sure that the camera is correctly positioned in front of the opening of the window. Indeed, you may notice that the camera, although attached to the chassis, has a flexible mount and can move slightly from left to right and from top to bottom. This mounting allows, I guess, to properly wedge the camera when we plate the screen on the chassis.

In my case, although the screen was perfectly aligned at the bottom left and right corners, the camera had to be positioned incorrectly because the screen did not fit snugly on the chassis. It is almost invisible to the naked eye, but it does not plate perfectly.

Be sure to check this point before removing the protections from the adhesives by playing on the mounting bracket of the camera mount.

Excellent tutorial;))

If you're replacing the display, don’t forget to take out the pink film protecting the camera opening. I did, and I came out pink. I had to this all over again since I missed the pink film.

If this happened to you, and you don’t want to redo or just waiting for new adhesive strips to come to your mailbox, try using a CTO blue gel flash filter to counteract and balance the color, which actually worked great for me, unless you want to use a green screen, which I did, then CTO filters won’t work.

Pull them out slowly, cos you the coverstrips can rip easily resulting in having no adhesive in that area cos the strip is rendered unreachable… (happend to me twice) ..

It is MUCH easier to just align the bottom edge, then use painters tape to attach the glass at the bottom. Flip the screen forward so that you can see both tabs 4L and 4R. Carefully expose the adhesive at the bottom. Connect the two top cables, clean the webcam. Finally peel tabs 5 and 3 from the bottom up. Lastly while you can see everything, peel both sides of tabs 1 & 2. Then just press everything down squarely. (The biggest issue is that the tabs do not come off easily and removing the tabs while you can see them is the key here.)

Sometimes, the blue pull tabs tear off, rather than pulling the adhesive cover off. You will be holding the display in your hands when this happens, so just take a deep breath, and try to peel back the white cover with your fingernail of your free hand.

What can happen here is the protective covering can break be careful