Installing iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 Dual Hard Drive

Schritt 1

Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.
Both screws remain captive within the access door.
Remove the access door.
Before beginning the repair, unplug the computer and press and hold the power switch for 20-30 seconds, to discharge internal capacitors.

Swapping in a new CPU and an SSD took me about 10 hours. I did take a dinner break and spent another hour rooting around in my garage to find my thermal paste. Still, this procedure can take a long time.

gordonhamachi - 16/01/15

Only a french translation proposal. We use to say “démontage” instead of “installation'“ in that specific case. ;-) (Dismantling)

francis barbier - 15/05/18

Schritt 2

Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:
Three 6 mm T8 Torx screws
One 8 mm T8 Torx screw (Right side of the RAM slot on 2105)

Schritt 3

Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.
Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.
Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.
Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.
Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.
It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches. Or use two cards for the additional thickness.
If the bezel refuses to release, try lifting the lower edge of the front bezel slightly away from the rear case (detailed in the next few steps) and repeat the latch release process.

I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

ReneBruce -

the photo of latch is no longer there at Photobucket

rmshreffler -

When you put this back together, make sure you place the bevel latches UNDER/INSIDE the case frame.

robino -

Zitat von ReneBruce:

I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

Thanks, your picture helped me.

robino -

Rather than through the vent at the back. Ease the bottom of the front bezel away from the screen and then in the gap created between the screen and the front bezel, insert your card here and push up to release the latch. This is especially the method to use, if you have already tried everything else above, as you may have bent the latches, and you'll never get them to relase the conventional way.

Charlie -

Good tip. I sort of did this out of desperation before reading this. Seem to work to get it apart. I'll have to see about getting it back together.

David Sutherland - 30/05/16

On the 24 inch model, there are no latches. Instead the front bezel has four tabs which slot into the rear case. It's very easy to remove.

manfred -

Wow, I really got stuck on the bezel. I tried a credit card, even a flexible metal scraper, nope nothing budged. I finally got going with help from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzuBW3mu7... which the guy has the machine lying on its back, then you can carefully bend the front bezel up until you see the latches, and I got the scraper in front of the screen and un-did the latches that way. Onto the next step!

sleestack -

Replaced one of the redundant images of the card going into the slot, with the previously linked image of the latch itself. I was struggling to figure out how to get the thing open, thinking it was a latch that pushed *up* to the top of the system, but it actually pushes *forward* towards the screen. That accounts for the bending of the card, and the excess length required to insert it. After figuring that out, the case came off nicely.

Matt Falcon -

Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

Zaphod -

This was perfect! I wish the original instructions mentioned the magnets.

I used magnets I pilfered from an old hard drive.

veganmo - 16/07/14

This is definitely the hardest part of this repair. I ended up doing what Charlie did and got it off after a lot of frustration.

aseisman -

The iMacs I've taken apart open simply with a magnet. I made a video to show exactly how the latch works inside. You do need a strong magnet like the hard drive internal magnet suggestion however they can be found in many places, just look for 'rare earth' or 'neodymium' and you'll find one. probably .3" cube would be big enough.

http://youtu.be/yvq035edr-I

there is the video that shows how the latch works. of course you may need TWO magnets to do both latches at the same time.

awr -

Save yourself some headache and get a magnet for this. I used these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PWMVSI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sometimes just one will do the job, other times I've had to use all 4 together.

Much easier than trying to use a card.

maccentric - 04/05/14

sleestack is right on. The youtube vid is excellent for sliding the case right off without spudges and cards, etc. The vid's still there as of today, 9/30/2014. And the guy's foil removal is right on target, too. Very simple to replace the battery. I use this old 2006 computer with an old version of the PC program for Jobclock and only for that with Parallels 6 running the PC app. Don't want to upgrade or change anything at this point, going to milk it a couple more years. Got a nice big i5 for everything else. Oh, happy day.

infoghost - 01/10/14

Apple designed the latch to be released with a Magnet. That's it. That is the tool to be used.

Avoid frustration, hassles, wasted time: simply buy a "neodimio" Magnet.

Actually yes – IMHO It would have preferred iFixtit had mentioned a MAGNET to release the front Bezel, the credit card in an awkward and misleading (and not so smart) method.

I hope iFixit will change Step 3.

Giacomo Santerini - 10/03/15

Be very careful here. One of the sides did not release using the plastic card. I tried to push it a bit but it would not give. It did work using 2 cards. What I did not realized until the very end, when I turned the imac back on, is that I broke the display. Thanks a lot ifixit. I get the hard drive back to work now but with a damaged display. And I can't even buy a replacement one from you.

patmainville - 18/10/15

Yes the screens in these machines are easy to break. I've opened these sorts of machines at least a 40 times. You do need to be very careful with the display. The won't take any pressure from a wayward thumb or finger etc. I have broken one once, trying to get a latch to give. You have to be very conscious not to out any fingers in the display at all.

BUT, how you think this is anyone's but your own fault is beyond me. iFixit has no blame to take here.

Please everyone, read through all instructions carefully and learn from others'.

And to this poster, go buy one of these machines from eBay or find in one in hard rubbish to repair yours. These white iMacs are almost 10 years old now. And are scrap in most people's minds.

Charlie Nancarrow - 18/10/15

Schritt 4

Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.
To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:
Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.
Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.
Pull the front bezel up with your index fingers.
Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.

Schritt 5

Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge.

Schritt 6

If necessary, remove the strip of tape covering the microphone cable connector.
The microphone connector is located near the inside of top edge of your iMac.

i posted a note on the next page about disconnecting the microphone and camera cable. may help. reed it before disconnect.

sebalancea -

Schritt 7

Disconnect the microphone cable.
Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board.
The camera cable connector and socket are delicate and easily bent. Remove with caution.

there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

sebalancea -

Zitat von sebalancea:

there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

I didn't even use the wall, I just carefully pivoted the frame backwards and laid it on the table without disconnecting the wires

Bob -

Be careful. My microphone and camera cables looked a little bit different from this. My camera cable connector did NOT plug directly into the camera board (and I almost tried pulling the cable out of the board), but rather there was a cable to cable connector that was stuffed behind the monitor. I had to skip this step until the monitor was out. I have an early 2006 20" iMac.

avcaruso -

My Mac had a different camera board and it didn't appear that the cables could be detached. Leaving them in place and propping up the back of the case worked for me.

gordonhamachi - 16/01/15

I agree, no need to disconnect. I used a bunch of books (heavy books), to keep the monitor frame upright.

osfanatic - 08/04/15

Schritt 8

Peel up the lower EMI shield from the rear case.
It is only necessary to peel the shield up from three sides. Leave it attached to the display.
If you happen to rip the EMI shield, use a piece of foil tape to cover the tear.

Schritt 9

Tape the EMI shield to the face of the display to keep it out of the way.

I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

Bob -

Zitat von Bob:

I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

I agree, and tape doesn't stick to the screen (I tried and the tape came loose before I was done)

Wizbang FL -

Schritt 10

Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board.
Pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board by its black pull tab.

This would be a really good time to change the PRAM battery. They only last 4-5 years, and cost very little. It'll save another teardown in the near future. (3v CR2032)

Bob -

Zitat von Bob:

This would be a really good time to change the PRAM battery. They only last 4-5 years, and cost very little. It'll save another teardown in the near future. (3v CR2032)

Good idea, I just replaced this. $5 @ radioshack.

sleestack -

I found that disconnecting the display cable at the LCD end was easier. There are 2 v small clips either side of the ribbon cable, squeeze together and the cable disconnects from the panel.

KazR -

on this step I just forgot (there always something to forget!!) to connect back display data cable connector to the logic board, after I replaced the hard drive. Don't worry nothing happens. Hwen I switched on the iMac and it was just functioning alright and normal but I wasn't able see anything other than a black screen :)

If you got a black screen but a normal white light on the right bottom corner, think abot the connector !

joleisa -

Schritt 11

Peel back the EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.
During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.

This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.

mindzeebeez -

Zitat von mindzeebeez:

This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.

I found that using the plastic card to remove the cover worked well in lifting the EM tape from the screen. Also step 10 & 11 appear to be reversed since you can't get to the screws until you have lifted up the display (this can only occur once you have dealt with the EM shield)

Wizbang FL -

Peeling back the tape was very time consuming. I bet the pros just cut it and patch with new metallic tape. This step was the worst.

gordonhamachi - 16/01/15

Schritt 12

Allow the lower EMI shield to hang down from the display.
Remove the four 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.
The screws are recessed, so a thin magnetic screwdriver aids in removal. Most bit drivers are too short to reach these screws.

This is a Torx T-9 on the 24" iMac Core Duo

jrmn -

Zitat von jrmn:

This is a Torx T-9 on the 24" iMac Core Duo

This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.

Daniel -

Zitat von Daniel:

This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.

My mistake, it's actually a T-10, but the T-9 was the only one I could get to work due to the limited angle.

Daniel -

I believe this is where the $4.95 looong T-10 screwdriver shown in the recommended tools would have come in handy. We managed to make the driver from the 54 bit set work by holding the bit driver with a vice grip, which made it possible to get down in there. The various holders that came with the set were just a hair too thick.

Justina Hayden -

These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.

mindzeebeez -

Zitat von mindzeebeez:

These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.

Try sticking the screw onto the driver with a tiny piece of blu-tac. Worked for me.

Bob -

I found it easiest to lie the computer on its back and rest all four screws in the display. Then all you have to do is lower the display slowly and evenly. The tricky part with this method is to make sure the EMI shield doesn't catch on the screws on the way down.

Andrew -

If your Torx screwdriver isn't magnetized, rub the tip 8-10 times on the magnet inside the white plastic cover (the one that holds the remote to the side of the monitor). Prestro... your Torx screwdriver is now magnetized!

John Way -

I used a strong wall magnet to magnetize my screwdriver. It worked perfectly! Your tip was very helpful and pointed me to an answer that worked for me.

osfanatic - 08/04/15

The lower left screw of the display can be sometimes reached directly from the corner rather through the hole.

Bob -

Schritt 13

Lift the lower edge of the display and rotate it toward the top edge of your iMac.
Do not lift it too much, as the inverter cables are still attached.

If you remove the inverter wires after dealing with the EM shield you can flip the display without detaching the LCD data cable. Use the foot of the iMac (with a towel to protect the display) to hold the display while you work inside.

Wizbang FL -

Schritt 14

Disconnect both inverter cables from the inverter board.
These connectors are seated very tightly in their sockets. It is helpful to use your fingernails or the tip of a spudger to push the ears on either side of the connectors to dislodge them from their sockets. A small pair of hemostats helps a lot.

The 17" model is nearly identical until this point. You will not have to disconnect on the 17" model for either Step 15 or Step 16.

robino -

Watch out when reconnecting the inverter cables - the little pins on the inverter board are very easily bent indeed when the plug isn’t put back totally straight. I happened to bend one on the lower edge, resulting in the display being only dimly lit in the lower half and requiring me to open the machine once more. Since I only flipped up the display unit (as in some of the comments on step 16) I could skip step 15 and never touched the inverter cables on the top edge of the inverter board.

Hartmut Vodermaier - 05/11/14

Schritt 15

Disconnect the two inverter cables at the top edge of the inverter using the method explained in the previous step.

I would mark the top of the large inverter cable connectors somehow, with a marker or pencil. My connectors had writing on the bottom, not the top as pictured, and I bent the pins trying to reinsert it incorrectly since the top and bottom look similar. Nearly all the other connectors have an obvious top and bottom.

Marko -

Take pictures with iPhone of all tricky connectors and refer to them on reassembly:-)

Macrepair SF - 02/11/18

Schritt 16

Rotate the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case and lift it up to peel it off the EMI shield stuck to its top edge.

You don't need to peel off the display from the top. Just lean it toward a wall etc. in a perpendicular angle. If you don't move the mac while you perform the following steps, it won't flip or fall down. You can also save step 15 this way, as the wires are long enough to stay connected.

Martin -

Why peel it off? I just left it there in the perpendicular position leaning against the wall. Didn't annoy me at all when I changed the hard drive.

alex, Jul 02 2012

alexanderfaussner -

I've seen a few people comment having found their Airport dead after hard drive swap. It's really easy to rip off the wire from Airport antenna (up there nearby the mic and camera, to the left from them). The wire goes through the holes of upside EMI shielding and raising the display too high while trying to peel the shielding off can yank the wire so it gets loose from the soldering.

Tee -

It looks like I'm late to the party but here goes anyway... I have Ubuntu Kylin installed on my iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and I want to use the iMac's display for my Linux install on that unit AND be able to switch the video going to the screen from my iMac to what's displayed on my Mac Mini. I think what I'm asking is how can I split the display so I can switch the video input to the video card from one machine to another.

Frederick C - 20/10/16

You do not have to disassemble the logic board! At this point, you have to disassemble the hard disk, unscrew the 4 screws and the big power connector. The second small cable, without disassembling the motherboard, is enough to make it pass sideways, pulling away with a bit of force on plastic and the beat sink. The small sponge gasket must be removed and then rested. 3 minutes in total from this point!

gentissi - 21/08/17

Schritt 17

Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.
Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

Schritt 18

Remove the two 3.6mm T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive ribbon cable connector to the logic board.

Schritt 19

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.
The connector is most easily removed when prying from the top or bottom of the connector.
Bend the optical drive ribbon cable back away from the logic board.
Be very careful when moving the optical drive ribbon cable as it is delicate and easily ripped.

justa a question, I cant figure… is this connection on iMac board a SATA or PATA (IDE)? I was thinking on add a second ssd on my old iMac 20, 2.16 so I can make a raid 0.

Vitor - 09/11/19

Schritt 20

Apple's "engineers" didn't learn much about deflection and material stiffness when they went to "college", so this optical drive is particularly difficult to remove because the bracket flexes too much. The next few steps require some patience and a good amount of force.
Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the optical drive and its bracket until it contacts the chassis.
Grab the spudger as close to the surface of the optical drive as you can, then depress the release tab with your thumb while pulling toward yourself.
The wedge shape of the spudger may cause it to slip out of the gap toward yourself. Be sure to press the spudger in toward the rear case while squeezing the release tab.

Just take out the rear screw by the latch near the logic board, then concentrate on releasing the latch on the other side by the method shown in the pic,when you have relased that side of the drive hold the drive up enough so that you can release lower latch with a long bladed thin screwdriver by going under the drive and pushing downwards on the latch leg to release it and pulling up gently on the drive,works like a charm !

Supadupa -

Schritt 21

Remove the two 6mm T10 Torx screws from the side of the optical drive.
It's a good idea to lay your iMac flat on a table before removing these screws to avoid them falling behind the logic board.

It seems that you can wait to remove these two screws until step 29, since you release the optical drive from the chassis with the plastic

fabiendaguerre -

Agreed, no need to do this step with the drive in the computer since you're taking it out. Reduces the chance of dropping a screw inside and having to remove it.

maccentric -

Schritt 22

Reach behind the chassis and use your finger to unclip the lower optical drive tab from the chassis.

The pictures and description on this step need help. What it's trying to tell you is to undo the clip like the one in step 20, this time do the side near the fan.

maccentric -

Schritt 23

Maneuver the optical drive out of the rear case, minding the two plastic pins molded into the rear case near the open end of the optical drive that can break off.

Schritt 24

Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive cable to the optical drive.

Schritt 25

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the optical drive cable connector and the optical drive.
Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the optical drive.
Repeat this process for both sides of the connector.

Schritt 26

Pull the optical drive cable connector away from the optical drive.

Schritt 27

Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the small pieces of EMI foam from the underside of the optical drive.
Don't forget to transfer these to your new drive.

Schritt 28

Peel the long strip of EMI foam from the underside of the optical drive.
Don't forget to transfer this to your new drive.

Schritt 29

Remove the two T10 Torx screws from the side of your optical drive.

Schritt 30

Use the tip of a spudger to push the two optical drive bracket tabs out of their slots in the top of the optical drive.

Schritt 31

Using the tip of a spudger, press the optical drive bracket tab out of its slot on the side of the optical drive.

Schritt 32

Use the tip of a spudger to press the optical drive bracket tabs out of the slots in the top of the optical drive.

Schritt 33

Pull the optical drive bracket toward the open end of the optical drive to free it from the optical drive.

Schritt 34

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive thermal sensor off the adhesive securing it to the optical drive.
Don't forget to transfer this to your new drive.
If you have a disk or anything else stuck inside your optical drive, we have a guide to fix it.

For the thermal sensor, look at the comments about the hard drive replacement (there's also a thermal sensor on it) :Thermal sensors comments

by Wizbang FL Feb 28 @ 7:08 PM

When removing the sensor be careful to get underneath the adhesive (IE: keep as much adhesive on the sensor) It allowed me to just stick the sensor to the new hard drive (clean the new drive area with alcohol and allow to dry to promote adhesion) Don't get the sensor dirty

fabiendaguerre -

Schritt 35

Remove the three 3.0 mm Phillips screws from the optical bay enclosure.

Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

Roman Quenin -

plug in the back of the ssd

Roman Quenin -

I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

However I have NOT confirmed this.

Allen Borza -

If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

EkDor - 19/06/14

I bought another caddy, not the one from the description. i had to extract the plastic adaptor from the optical drive and put in on the new caddy 12,7mm

Cristian Pizarro - 25/05/17

The SDD caddy I purchased was 22 pin SATA both inside and outside so that the optical drive cable (13 pin) would not fit. Does anyone know where I can find a SDD caddy with 13 pin SATA outside for the optical cable and 22 pin SATA inside for the SDD?

benja.mcg - 04/07/17

Schritt 36

Starting from the left edge, gently pull open the optical bay enclosure.
Continue to pull open the two halves of the enclosure until they separate.

This is the 12.7mm caddy.. but, the caddy 9.5 mm fit fine as well? or it doesn't fit on imac mid 2010

Cristian Pizarro - 20/02/17

My caddy (ordered 5/2019) had two additional screws that needed to be removed from the sides for it to open.

mr.kaufman7 - 18/05/19

Schritt 37

Remove the two 3.0 mm Phillips screws securing the faceplate to the optical bay enclosure.

Schritt 38

Lift the black plastic faceplate out of the optical bay enclosure.
You will no longer need the faceplate or the two Phillips screws that held it in place. Set those parts aside if you ever wish to put the faceplate back into the enclosure.
Reassemble the optical bay enclosure without the faceplate, reusing the original three 3.0 mm Phillips screws to keep it intact.

Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

Nic Johnson -

Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

Jeff Dickson -

So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

Ron Lockhart -

Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

olafgoy - 22/04/14

My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

Kevo - 21/11/14

Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

Monkeyrebirth - 27/12/14

I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

nickmalmquist - 26/04/15

Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

EkDor - 19/06/14

I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

Keith Mewis - 24/12/14

Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

Alex - 29/12/14

Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

Walter Poole - 29/01/15

I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

Marc - 10/04/15

Schritt 39

Remove the plastic positioner from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.

What’s the switch for on the inside of the caddy? What position should it be in? Mine came switched to the right (towards SATA connector that disk inserts into).

Robert Lord - 28/12/20

Schritt 40

Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure.
Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.
While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.

Schritt 41

Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic positioner while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.
Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.

Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

nickmalmquist - 26/04/15

I suspect that the plastic positioner will secure the drive well enough (for this style of adapter). As I mentioned in earlier comment, this should mean you can replace / upgrade the SATA drive later without needing to remove the adapter, skipping many steps.

Les Kitchen - 09/11/19

Do you need a sata cable to connect the new drive to the board or does it connect via the optical drive cable that we disconnected earlier?

Erik Sawaya - 03/04/17

It does connect to the optical drive cable but if you don't use the optical bay enclosure you'll need a 13 pins to 22 pins sata adaptor (and some tape!)

The sata cable for the optical drive has 6 + 7 pins while ssd and hhd have 15 + 7 pins

Graziano Nora - 21/08/17

Can someone please explain why you need to remove the black plastic faceplate from the optical bay enclosure. It is designed to receive the standard SSD. What is gained from removing a part of it?

Peter Bull - 07/12/17

Thank you! This guy has made upgrading the mid 2010 iMac I inherited from my mom MUCH easier and saved me a lot of time, trial, and error.

Rob Anthony Dire - 22/03/21

My Penrynn Super Drive has PATA connector, and now is a fossil grade rarity :-(

IMI Comp -

I'm a little confused. Do I need the enclosure from ifixit or am I removing the optical drive and installing an ssd in the preexisting op drive enclosure? If using the already existing enclosure what type of ssd do I need as for Sata connectors?

danielpainter65 -

Installing iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 Dual Hard Drive

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

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