Kindle Fire HD 6 Screen Replacement

Geschrieben von: Cassandra Beck
  • Kommentare: 12
Kindle Fire HD 6 Screen Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

19

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten

Einleitung

This guide explains how to remove the screen from the Kindle Fire HD 6. This guide has many steps, so make sure to give yourself enough time to complete all of these.

Note that some of the connectors in this guide are delicate and require special removal, so make sure to read the steps completely before attempting them.

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    • Place the device face down on a clean cloth or another smooth surface.

    • In the following steps, you will need to apply some force to your device. If your device is on a rough surface, you may scratch the screen.

    • Insert the plastic opening tool between the device’s front and back panels. You might need to wiggle the tool up and down to wedge it in the gap.

    • Maneuver the tool around the device until the back unclips from the front panel.

    I wasn't sure that I would be able to fix my kindle. I did purchase another kindle, which was alright. I wanted a second kindle so with the purchase and my old one know fixed I am really glad. I feel if I have any future problems I will be able to fix it myself.

    RUBY PEOPLES -

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    • Carefully separate the back panel from the rest of the device internals.

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    • Unscrew the two 3.5mm T5 Torx screws at the base of the speaker.

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    • Unclip the speaker wire that runs up the side of the battery and clips into the motherboard next to the battery connector. Gently pull it straight up.

    How do you plug it back in?

    Jonathan Matos -

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    • Lift the speaker out of the device.

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    • Unscrew the two 3.5mm T5 Torx Screws from the top of the camera.

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    • Be careful not to damage the camera lens as you remove the camera.

    • Gently pull the camera up and out of the device. As you pull, unclip the black and white connector with orange tape by popping it off at its base.

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    • Gently pry the battery free from the adhesive holding it in place.

    • Take care not to pierce or rupture the battery, which can release dangerous chemicals.

    • If you're having trouble working the battery free, warm it up with an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and then slide a credit card behind the battery to break up the adhesive.

    • Be careful not to yank the battery out—you'll need to disconnect a connector before removing the battery completely.

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    • Remove the multi-colored connector that joins the battery and the motherboard by pulling it straight up.

    • Remove the battery.

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    • Zero insertion force connectors can break easily. Before performing this step, read the iFixit Guide to Recognizing and Disconnecting Cable Connectors to find out how to safely remove them.

    • Use the tip of the spudger to disconnect the two zero insertion force connectors on the bottom and top of the motherboard.

    • The first connector is attached to an orange tape, and is located in the bottom-right corner of the motherboard. Remove this connector.

    • The second connector is long and thin, and is located at the top of the motherboard, a bit to the right of center. Remove this connector.

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    • Disconnect the black and white connector at the very top-center of the motherboard by unclipping it using the flat side of the spudger.

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    • Unscrew the ten 3.5mm T5 Torx screws around the edge of the motherboard.

    In my device, there were nine screws, 3 2mm and 6 3.5mm.

    drbacher -

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    • Starting from the bottom, lift the motherboard out of the device. You will have to push the motherboard about two millimeters toward the top of the device to unhook the top edge.

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    • Remove the five gold-colored 2mm T5 Torx screws from the metal plate.

    In my device, there was a sixth screw on the upper left side. Also, these screws were 3.5mm, not 2mm.

    drbacher -

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    • An orange tape that connects to the motherboard runs through the metal plate. When removing the plate, be careful to maneuver the plate around the tape, and make sure not to stretch or rip the tape.

    • Lift the metal plate up using the flat side of the spudger.

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    • Remove the metal plate from the device.

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    • Unscrew the four silver-colored 2mm T5 Torx screws that connect the screen to the bezel.

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    • Be careful not to scratch the screen while you're removing it. After you've removed the screen, place it on a cloth or another smooth surface to make sure that you don’t scratch it once it is out of the device.

    • Push the suction cup against the screen. Press down firmly on the center of the suction cup to create a good seal.

    • Gently pull the screen out of the device.

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    • Place your screen on a cloth or another smooth surface to prevent it from getting scratched.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Cassandra Beck

Mitglied seit: 13/01/15

879 Reputation

8 Kommentare

Yes, author didn't go the complete distance. When actually removing glass by heating til adhesive softens. And releases from the bezel. Before tossing the cracked digitizer, I noticed 2 silver rectangle pieces, stuck to outer glass adhesive. That had black double stick tape on these pieces of silver colored metal which are a smaller rectangle. And somewhat camouflaged their existence . And I determined, they stick to rectangle recesses in the bezel. Easily overlooked by most. I hunted around, never finding any reference anywhere in text or video. However, I did find a picture of them. On a pink colored bezel on ebay. I don't know their function, but, could it the source of the problem that people are experiencing. After they replace digitizer they can't get the fire hd 6 to recognize it. DON'T KNOW! Hope you can shed some light on this!!! Other than this snafu, I give author good marks for the rest of very helpful guides Thank you.

jeff toler -

After completing this task completely the touch screen is not working? Did I do something wrong or need to fix a connection? Please help!!!

Cwebb -

I just did this, twice actually. The first time I tried to separate the new digitizer from the frame, since the replacement frame was black and my original was blue. BAD IDEA. Don't do it - trying to get it out of the frame, settled into the original one, including the metal spacers referred to above, is bound to fail. Just remove the camera from the old frame with the cracked digitizer and move it to the new one - it's only taped in place. Other than that and the fact that the article *seriously* understates the incredible amount of 2-sided glued foam that holds the battery in, the replacement was a breeze.

Tom Jackson -

I discovered you don’t actually even have to remove the battery. I gave up trying to get it off and just unscrewed everything. However, after replacing the screen, the touch screen won’t work now. Any ideas what I did wrong?

Darcy -

Add me to the list of people who tried this but ended up with a non-working digitizer after replacement. Anyone ever figure this out?

Peter Wood -

Add me to the list of people who tried this but ended up with a non-working digitizer after replacement. Anyone ever figure this out?

Steven Trollinger -

see my comment below. I finally got it to work. no ned to take apart so much and digitizer connector alignment is key.

Debra Darschewski -

Bought a digitizer replacement for my hd6 which had the worst cracked screen ever though everything else worked. After looking at this guide and other things I found on youtube I was finally able to successfully replace the digitizer by removing the back cover. Unhooking the battery, and then unhooking the digitizer cable at the top of the back it is a zif connector. Then I used a hot air gun or a blow dryer could be used to work around top edges of screen and a slim blade to get under screen and remove it. Once I cleaned up the broken glass, I used tape on screen to catch most of it and left over goo. I fit new digitizer screen on, alignment is key for the connector. Also don’t forget to remove the inner screen protector and tape. The hardest part was digitizer connector to get it aligned just right. It is now working! I am suspecting that those who have one not working either don’t have it aligned properly (it really is fussy) or possible messed up the ribbon on the connector. Good luck!

Debra Darschewski -