Einleitung

This guide outlines how to pry off the screen casing and unscrew the LCD screen. The screen may need to be replaced if it is cracked, or fails to display an image. The screen must be removed to access the display connector if it is loose or detached.

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    • Power down the Chromebook before starting the repair.

    • Opening the Chromebook voids the manufacturer warranty.

    • Flip the Chromebook so that the bottom is facing up.

    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the six 6.6 mm screws on the bottom.

    • Use a spudger to remove each of the 4 rubber feet.

    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the four additional screws under the rubber feet.

    There is also a screw under each of the 4 rubber feet that must be removed.

    Aaron Kurtz -

    Thank you for that little bit of important information. I almost torn apart the keyboard using too much force :)

    Anthony Hillier -

    @Aaron Kurtz, I just updated the guide. I’ll see if I can add any pictures later.

    John Gillen -

    I feel like i’m doing something wrong. It’s hard to get the new keyboard pushed in. Im afraid i’m going to break it.

    Jenna Bowman -

    I feel like I am doing something wrong. I got the keyboard off no problem. Put the replacement on and I feel like it’s going to break when I try to push it back in the frame.

    Jenna Bowman -

    You should update the guide. As Aaron Kurtz told long time ago there are screews under the feet. It is said in the comments, but not in the guide. I’m afraid somebody may break the keyboard…

    Andreu Rigo Gost -

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    • Flip the Chromebook back over and open the screen.

    • Wedge the plastic opening tool between the keyboard and the bottom of the Chromebook.

    • Run the plastic opening tool along the seam between the keyboard and the bottom of the Chromebook until the keyboard moves freely. Several tabs will pop out.

    • It is normal for the tabs to make a loud click when released. The corner tabs will be harder to release than the others and will make a louder click.

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    • Once the keyboard is released, grab the two top corners closest to the screen and slowly lift the keyboard up.

    • Do not lift the keyboard quickly or you might break the two cables that connect the keyboard to the motherboard.

    • Disconnect the cables by lifting up the retaining flaps on the black ZIF connectors.

    • Slowly pull the cables up and out of the connectors.

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    • Lift the keyboard up and off the back panel, exposing the motherboard and battery.

    Hmmm. So I found that once I had got the keyboard section off the motherboard/battery section that there was a metal plate which was holding the keyboard in place. I found a YouTube video, White Angel I think, and showed how you could get the plate off to be able to replace the keyboard.

    martin rodley -

    There are screws under the rubber pads on the bottom that need to be taken out as well. I fix these as a school where we literally have hundreds of these. There is no metal plate as described in the comment above. Rubber pads have letters and are not interchangeable with the other corners.

    Ed Asner -

    Ed, he's talking about the metal plate fastened to the keyboard once you remove the palm rest assembly. You’re referring to removing the initial external bottom screws.

    White Angel shows us how to replace the keyboard in the assembly, which saves you about $20 in parts vs. buying another full palm rest assembly.

    The only issue is that she pops the plastic tabs largely holding the metal plate in place- and never repairs them. So the keyboard looks nonfastened and gerry-rigged.

    Might be worth spending the extra $20 for the full assembly in the long run.

    Cheers

    Keith Powell -

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    • Open the Chromebook all the way so that the top and bottom both lay flat on the table.

    • Use the flat end of the spudger to remove the six black raised rubber circles on the front of the screen. This reveals the screws.

    • The two raised rubber circles between the laptop hinges do not need to be removed.

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    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the six 4mm screws. Rotate the screws to the left with the screwdriver.

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    • Place the plastic opening tool in the seam between the outer casing and the screen.

    • Run the plastic opening tool along the seam to disconnect the tabs attaching the panel to the outer casing until the panel moves freely.

    • While you run the plastic opening tool along the edge, several tabs will pop out.

    • It is normal for the tabs to make a loud click when released. The corner tabs will be harder to release than the others and will make a louder click when released.

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    • Remove the panel from the front casing by lifting any two corners.

    • Remove the panel slowly to prevent damaging the screen connectors. An adhesive strip holds the bottom edge of the screen casing in place.

    Safe extraction of screens is difficult with the strong tape in the bottom bezel, occasionally one comes apart easy enough but most are now very bound and the forces involved will damage the delicate LCDs. I’ve been trying a technique where I awkwardly reach in to slice beneath the tape with a hobby knife, snipping into the inverter’s shielding and ultimately excising a strip of it (I throw some kapton over the hole). This is not ideal and I’m not sure if my success rate is significantly increased.

    The N22 is an old model but our K12 still has thousands in use. The years have probably just made the adhesive harden and the situation worse. Heating the tape doesn’t seem to help much. If anyone knows of a solvent solution for our in-house shop, that might be a more promising route. On that note, if anyone knows a community hub for the thousands of such shops doing work on the convergent choices for K12 models, without the boons of collaboration, I’m all ears. There’s a /k12sysadmin subreddit that’s close but off.

    Professor Z -

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    • Disconnect the cable that connects the screen to the motherboard by flipping up the small black retaining flap on the ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the cable up towards the screen.

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    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the four 2.8 mm screws at each corner of the screen. Turn the screwdriver to the left to remove the screws.

    I would suggest a Ph 000 for these 4 screws, well at least that's what works better on the one I fixing right now

    martin rodley -

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    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the two 2.8 mm screws to the right of the camera. Turn the screwdriver to the left to remove the screws.

    Maybe it was just the model I was fixing, but the camera cable adhesive was on the back of the lid, not attached to the screen. Made it easier.

    Anyway, great guide, thanks so much. I've got 3 more Lenovo N22 cracked screens to fix, beats working for a living

    martin rodley -

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    • When you lift the screen and camera out of the back casing there will be an adhesive that keeps the screen and camera attached to the metal panel. Lift the screen slowly so you do not damage the metal panel or screen.

    • Slowly peel back the camera adhesive cable from the metal panel to fully remove the screen and camera.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Rothanak Prak-Austin

Mitglied seit: 26/04/17

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