Mac Mini Late 2014 Lüfter ersetzen

Pre-formatting is not necessary if you make a USB boot installation drive with macOS installer. During boot up, hold down the option key until the mac boot into the USB, formatting can then be done using disk utility running off the USB drive.

I had the exact same experience as tom. I installed a brand new 2TB Samsung 850 EVO and it was not recognized by the Mac Mini. I booted from a portable USB drive with a bootable copy of macOS High Sierra but the 850 EVO SSD I had just installed was not shown as an option. I tore down the Mac Mini again, formatted the 850 EVO, rebuilt the Mac Mini, and booted off the same bootable High Sierra USB drive, and sure enough the 850 EVO was recognized.

diskutil list

diskutil erasedisk [filesystem] [drivename] /dev/disk[disk number]

My drive (Evo 860) was also not initialized. I started in recovery mode and went to disc utility and from there selected the drive. I then was able to use the “erase” function on the drive. I just left the settings as default and as soon as it erased then the drive was ready to go.

Just completed this upgrade a few days ago, having purchased the 1 TB SSD kit from IFixIt. The kit arrived quickly and the tools and drive worked perfectly. The step by step guide posted here is pretty much flawless, but do pay attention to the specific comments from users on certain steps - they really help. As far as ensuring that the new drive will reboot and install MacOS, I watched 1-2 videos on YouTube about re-installing using the Internet Recovery tool and that worked perfectly. My MacMini is performing WAY better than it used to, for only a $200 upgrade kit and about 3 hours of work, all in. Thanks!

I’ve had Apple computers since the G3 machines and they have always been snappy.

Unfortunately this 2014 macmini has always been slow but this upgrade (6 years later) has changed that!

if you have a late 2014 macmini, do this.

I used a 860 Samsung.

A quick comment to tell you that at every step, make sure to read the comments and be careful. I managed to do the process fast without any problems, but thanks to the comments that warned me enough on the risky steps.

This guide surely helped me breath upgrade and bring some new life into my macmini. Thanks to all who contributed.

can one of you give me the link for the screw drivers please?

I used the T7 very carefully. No problems.

I just had success using standard pliers to remove the longer screw posts, and then I used standard needle nose pliers to press down and grip the tiny screws. Please note that this method may/will cause scrapping of the aluminium cover.

Northern Tools sells a set of 13 Torx Security Keys for $28.99 that has the TR6 size.

On my 2nd drive replacement (swapping out to an SSD this time). Could not find my logic board removal tool. So I made another one from a metal coat hanger. So, here’s my tip, when you put it all back together: the logic board removal tool fits around that small black circle antenna perfectly and you can replace the large black cover over the top snuggly. No rattles or anything.. So, next time: I’m guaranteed to find my logic board removal tool.

The three longer screws could be removed with pliers.

The three shorter once I drilled out with a sharp 3 mm drill.

First put tape across the ventilation opening and carefully vacuum cleaned before taking of the antenna plate, though.

Don’t you hate it when the manufacturer does things like this, though??

My set of drill bits contained a T6H but no TR6 (I don’t know the difference). That worked too without problems

I can recommend the Tekprem tools for this. That %#*@ security dimple foiled me until I got these. check Amazon ratings before you buy any tools, a lot of them that come from China are made with cheap pot metal rather than properly hardened alloys and will strip out very quickly. (Don’t ask me how I know this.)

I have T6 but not the required TR6, and my order for the bit from Amazon is going to take two weeks. I don’t have the patience to wait so…

I was able to remove all of the screws but 1 with a pair of needle nose pliers and sheer force of will. The last one wouldn’t come off so I just finally gave up and bent the plate back until the screw broke off. It wasn’t pretty but considering there is a plastic cover over the whole assembly it was something I was willing to live with.

Note that I can’t get the screws back in with the needlenose, they just don’t turn, so I will await the bit to arrive. In the meantime this computer is purring like a kitten, a whole new lease on life!

If you have non-security T6 and T7s, carefully drill away the middle of the screw with a very small bit, stopping frequently to vacuum out the filings to see if you’ve done enough. You don’t need to do much, and too much will strip the screw entirely. Then very carefully unscrew using a T6 (you may need a T7). I’ve done it twice and it works.

Crap, i'm stuck on these, too, and it's just the very beginning.. What can I say, that's simply unfair not to say plain stupid, Apple, but it's nothing new.

I can confirm that the small pin in the middle of the TR6 screws can be removed (actually broken out) pretty easily with a small, flat head screwdriver that can just fit inside the middle hole of the screw (as recommended in some YouTube video).

First, cover the antenna plate holes for safety. Then push the dots with the  flat head screwdriver from one side cautiously, but forcefully by leaning the driver against the outer side of the inner hole, until you see the security pin leaning a little bit. Then push it from the opposite side, until it breaks out.

Steps 6 - 9 are not needed…

I found it necessary to remove the screw (as instructed) as my antenna cable was attached to the washer.

I have been having wifi issues ever since I did this upgrade. Don’t know if it’s this connector or not.

Afajner great rip. Worked great. Thx

Afajner, your tip worked great. Thanks.

This is a very fiddly connector. Afajner’s tip is recommended. Make sure the connector is in securely. It will not wiggle or make a ticking sound when pressed when it is seated correctly.

I had trouble at this point too. My experience: Loosen the screw a bit and than center the antenna plug over the pin. In my case I heard a click when I plugged it in correctly. Don’t forget to tighten the screw afterwards.

Wenn nur die M.2 gewechselt werden soll, empfehle ich, den Antennenstecker nicht abzuschrauben und den Deckel einfach vorsichtig beiseite zu legen. Es ist dann allemal genug Platz zum Wechsel der M.2.

Das Ausstecken dieses Steckers ist hier wirklich nicht einfach, da die Anschlüsse winzig und mit bloßem Auge kaum zu erkennen sind. Hat bei mir gut 20 Minuten gedauert, bis ich das Teil wieder drauf hatte. Eine Lupe kann hier wirklich helfen. Auch das vorherige Fixieren mit der Schraube macht es ggfs. etwas einfacher. Der restliche Ausbau/Umbau/Zusamenbau war nach einer knappen halben Stunde erledigt und ist für jeden mit etwas Geduld machbar.

Des weiteren aufpassen mit der winzigen Schraube, die beim Zusammenbau leicht verkanten kann und dann sehr schnell abreißt.

In trying to remove the antenna connector pin from its socket on the airport card the socket came away from its location on the airport card completely, together with the cable and connector pin. Rather than replace the airport card (that would have a new socket) and a new connector/pin for the cable, I decided it would be worth trying to solder the connecting pin to the (now exposed) contact points for the socket on the airport card.

Best time to do this is during the re-build _after_ replacing the hard drive, when the antenna is still unattached to the airport card. After the re-build (with no further problems encountered) it was quite easy to solder the connector pin with attached remains of the socket to the airport card's contact points - there's enough space for easy solder access without other sensitive components nearby.

I had thought that my Mac Mini's wireless connectivity might be affected, but it wasn't.

Now very happy with a fast SSD machine with wireless connectivity.

this was the most fiddly part of the reassembly operation for me too. Old eyes, despite good lighting, led me to try this multiple times before I finally got that satisfying click. I am surprised that people find securing the screw first to be helpful, as I didn’t have nearly enough room to move the cable around if I tried that. Also, while it is theoretically possible to do this entire operation without removing the cable, I would never chance it… It’s way too easy to damage something by yanking on the plate. I had a lot of peace of mind when I was able to set the entire antenna plate aside.

Getting this connector back on was the single most annoying part of the process. I agree with loosely reattaching the screw first to hold the cable in place. I then used tweezers to manoeuvre the head of the cable into position and my finger to push it down.

To everyone making comments regarding their experience - fabulous!

I also broke the socket off. I don’t have the ability to solder little $@$* like that. I’m sad.

broke it… how bad is the no fan option?

@TisMise you’re right thanks a lot! ;)

You don’t need to disconnect the fan cable to take out the logic board. When you slip the logic board out, put the the fan behind the logic board as you push it out.

Definitely use wide end.

That’s it, I used a needle! After reading so much people broke it, I rejected this step instruction and put a needle between the socket and the connector. It came out fine. Good that I also fix clothes, other than computers. :)

As Kenneth Z said, I just left the fan attached to the board for the entire process (I removed the screws so it was just connected with the cable). After reading all the comments, I was too afraid to try to force it and it did not come off easily. Keeping the connector on is a little dangerous because you have to be careful not to pull on that connector too much but it seems pretty robust, which is probably why it is so difficult to removed. I just slipped the fan through after I pulled out the main board assembly.