MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Trackpad Replacement

Geschrieben von: Andrew Optimus Goldheart
  • Kommentare: 13
MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Trackpad Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

9

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Remove the trackpad from your MacBook AIr 11" Late 2010.

  1. uo5A23aHopMrm6Tb

    • Before proceeding, close your computer and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the eight 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    I recommend that one of the tools you obtain is a jeweler's loupe that mounts on your glasses. It makes things easier.

    blairweaver -

    This is not correct. You need the pentalobe tool at this point.

    Duane Hellums -

  2. vf5kY5uHWndMVbCQ

    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  3. u5KG4BiqM4HZZFQ3
    u5KG4BiqM4HZZFQ3
    oUt4Qk6rflrgWUkv

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally contact its socket.

    This is the same as step 3 isn't it?

    No Name -

  4. oPDIiZeEiNTcM1PS

    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

    Don’t be like me! Make sure you use the *other* screw driver, not the one you took the case off with. I got five of them out with the wrong screwdriver, stripped the head on the sixth, got it out with a screw extractor, cut a new slot in it so I could use a normal flat head screw driver on it to put it back in, and then realized….

    Sarah Stockton -

  5. ZARkQJb4O5dGXWDb

    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Next, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    I need to point out here that the replacement battery that I bought here at iFixit for this MacBook Air says that the battery calibration consists on draining the battery below 10%, then charging it uninterruptedly to 100%, but this is not consistent with the battery calibration that appears on this guide. Which one should I follow? Any additional thoughts on this? Thanks.

    Rafael Pérez -

    Hi Rafael,

    We updated our battery calibration technique recently. The most reliable way would be to follow the guide method (charge full + 2 hours, drain completely, charge full again).

    Arthur Shi -

    This was wonderfully easy-peasy! I just have one small suggestion: you might add a word (and a photo would be great), reminding folks that they need to connect the new battery connector. I know, it should (ok, it is! :) obvious and all… but I have to admit, after having my hand held so well through the rest of the process, having to engage brain again and realize that needed to be done (“what’s missing here?”) - took a moment. It was a bit nervous-making, too, since the new battery cable was quite stiff, resistant to bending, and I had to apply a wee bit of brute force and ignorance to position and connect the connector. Adding a note about that might be useful. Just a thought! Otherwise, super easy and straight forward - I feel so empowered! :)

    Suzanne Bell -

  6. OGTZwHqaBAkUILXA
    OGTZwHqaBAkUILXA
    XiqTH5SZ56KXMa2g

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up the retaining flap on the trackpad data cable ZIF connector.

    • Be careful to pry on the hinged flap, not the connector itself; the connector is delicate and may break.

    • Gently slide the trackpad ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

  7. h6RpSbIlkxqUXRrF
    h6RpSbIlkxqUXRrF
    BFDwXdHytMS6VJ1G
    eNagk4xtDaYjPJCJ

    • With one hand, lift the keyboard ribbon cable up and push it slightly away from the trackpad to access the ZIF connector underneath.

    • Use a spudger tip to pry up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    • Be careful to pry on the hinged flap, not the connector itself; the connector is delicate and may break.

    • Gently slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

  8. OLYmNAk6mLPeQFaR

    • Remove the six 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screws that secure the trackpad assembly to the upper case.

    I had one screw, too, that wouldn't come out. It seems the 00 Philips screwdriver is too big.

    mustangpaul -

    Excellent instructions, just replaced my trackpad and everything worked out well. I can confirm that the 000 Philips is the better choice. One more thing: my new tackpad did not click very smoothly so I had to adjust the sensitivity by turning the tiny screw that sits in the upper case opposite the click mechanism of the trackpad (see step 9 photographs) a bit, 1/2 a rotation was enough, thanks a lot, Oliver, Switzerland

    Oliver Gerlacher -

  9. XpbLJwVsCtWDwgTe
    XpbLJwVsCtWDwgTe
    3VNAZbBHwDVI1BAL
    wlvgSxvfpoMLitOL

    • Open the MacBook about 10 degrees.

    • While supporting the upper case, press up on the side of the trackpad closest to the logic board.

    • Remove the trackpad.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Mitglied seit: 17/10/09

493949 Reputation

4 Kommentare

I did it! Replaced the trackpad after the MacBook Air took a dive from a stand, which fortunately just shattered the trackpad's glass. Thanks for the easy to use instructions!

Just one note on step 8: I had to use a PH000 (triple 0) instead of the double 0 - almost destroyed one of the screws before realising.

Best regards,

StH

Stefan -

The trackpad from my macbook air would not click anymore. The pointer still worked, i could still tap and hoover around.

My guess was that something fell between the trackpad and the housing.

And I was right, it was a bread crumb or else of a little seed.

While following this guide, I saw that a little magnet underneath the unibody is lifting the trackpad up again, after being pushed down. Right in that tiny space was the little bugger :)

I'm with Stefan, about his comment by step 8. I actually did destroy one screw (there sat really, really tight) and had to use brute force with a pincer and a tip of WD-40 to loosen it. It seems like Apple took that into account, since there are enough to leave one out :)

Peter Bakker -

I had the same issue, non-clicking mouse, and a dis-assembly & light clean also sorted me out. Thanks everyone!

pabz -

Replacement went well - iFixit guide marvellous as usual and replacement trackpad performs perfectly. So good to resurrect

the trusty MB Air!

Richard Cox -