MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Akku austauschen

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
  • Kommentare: 161
MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Akku austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

5

Zeitaufwand

15 Minuten

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung hilft dir, einen defekten Akku zu tauschen.

Hinweis: Wenn sich ein dünner Plastikfilm auf dem Ersatzakku befindet, versuche nicht ihn zu entfernen. Er ist darauf verleimt und schützt den Akku, wenn er im Inneren deines MacBooks eingebaut ist.

  1. ntWnApPFnVyDIwGF

    • Bevor du anfängst, fahre dein MacBook herunter. Schließe das Display und lege dein MacBook mit der Unterseite nach oben auf eine weiche Unterlage.

    • Benutze einen P5 Pentalobe-Schraubendreher, um folgende zehn Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 9 mm Schrauben

    • Acht 2,6 mm Schrauben

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison -

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer -

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m -

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew -

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith -

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov -

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir -

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock -

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner -

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton -

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach -

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev -

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog -

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 -

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement -

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell -

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis -

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love -

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand -

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross -

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent -

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian -

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath -

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi -

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong -

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole -

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt -

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert -

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen -

  2. AuaSrWoUvoATMoyN

    • Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.

    • Entferne das hintere Gehäuse und lege es beiseite.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley -

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel -

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH -

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes -

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc -

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY -

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus -

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson -

  3. BOCJuTgVMYUQkEp1
    BOCJuTgVMYUQkEp1
    yRInLPxQxOBw2AhX

    • Ziehe die Plastiklasche, die am Stecker des Akkus hängt, in Richtung der vorderen Kante des MacBooks, um den Akku vom Logic Board zu trennen.

    • Der Stecker darf nicht nach oben gezogen werden, während du ihn vom Anschluss trennst.

    The guide says: "Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board", but the battery model that I was replacing did not have a clear plastic pull tab at all...

    The battery model shown in this guide is: A1405

    I was installing battery model: A1406

    A1406 has the following connector:

    Top:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    Bottom:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    By looking at the bottom of the new battery I saw how it could be removed. Simply by a gentle upward movement. I very, very carefully nudged it a bit upwards using a screwdriver on the left and right side, as shown here:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    It came out fairly easy, luckily!

    (And yes, I also cleaned up this MacBook before closing it again. It was a bit hairy in a literal way. Electronics and pets is not the best combination. ;-) )

    This was a great guide!

    wil -

    I think you may have been reading the wrong guide by mistake.

    Looking at the various MacBook Air battery replacement guides, all of the 13" models show the connector depicted in this guide. All of the 11" models (e.g. MacBook Air 11" Mitte 2012 Akku tauschen) show a connector like the one in your photos.

    shamino -

    The 13 inch's tab is a bit more difficult to reinstall than uninstall. Delicate care is needed.

    Andrew Ruble -

    I agree with Andrew and Joes. I also found that the trickiest part was to pull the tap back when reinstalling the new battery. A special hint at this point in the guide would be nice.

    Alexander Kluge -

    This is the tricky part if there is one. Just pull back towards the battery and not up.

    Joe Wasser -

    hello there, My macbook air does not recognize a battery connected, anymore.

    It looks like I damaged the connectors while trying to connect the battery back, although it does not look damaged. I must say, I tried a little force to squeeze the connector in the middle instead of the edge. May have damaged the connector ?

    Once, after this, the MBA recognized my battery when pressed the connectors edge to the pins on the board. However, this did not last long and my MBA does not recognize the battery anymore. Any solutions on how I can fix this ? Please help.

    Samy Palaniappan -

    Had the same issue where my Macbook did not recognize the battery on the first try. I opened it back up and re-seated the connector and that fixed the problem. That particular connector does not seem to have a positive engagement. It does not appear to seat all the way down. It’s charging now and I hope it will remain stable and connected as I travel.

    Paul Tornatta -

    When we were putting the new battery in, it was easier to fit the tab back on and then fit the battery in place. I had someone helping me and they held the new battery up whilst I pushed the tab in. It was quite tight, and I ended up easing it in with the tip of a screwdriver on each edge in turn.

    Shimbo -

    The plastic pull tab broke off with the tiny tug I gave it (Mid-2011 Air). I just unscrewed the battery and carefully pulled out the connector when I had the extra room.

    Sam Kernot -

    for my 11inch mac air [mid 2011] the connecter is connected vertically and not horizontally - so you need to pull up, not back. thanks to Will for the links to the illustrations that made that clear. Getting the connecter to release was the hardest part of the job - otherwise, it was just removing screws.

    Jim Kemper -

    I had same as above you have to be very sure on your screen size as the battery disconnect looks a little different and I used the 11 inch steps on the link provided which worked perfectly! thanks

    Jim Lukens -

    Successful battery change on Macbook Air 13 mid-2012.

    After screwing in the new battery, I couldn't connect it to the motherboard. I was afraid of damaging the connection and the rest of the components.

    So it seemed easier to me to unscrew the new battery, then plug it in and finally screw it back in one last time. I think that this step lacks a point of precision in terms of reassembly.

    Otherwise, it's a good tutorial, thank you very much!

    Steve Baudron -

    **Note during this step how the cable flexes. With the new battery you will need to carefully bend your new connector to be able to flex in the same way, which is easier to do before you install the battery. in fact, i agree with other comments that for re-install it is easier carefully hold the battery up a bit (to keep it off the trackpad components), and install the plug as you are moving the battery up into place. This will limit the amount the cable needs to flex and take that pressure off the connector to the logic board.

    llcoreyll -

    In line with some other comments, I found it helpful to connect the cable before putting the new battery into place. That way I could aim the cable straight into the receptacle, and the wires folded appropriately into their small space when I put the battery in position and screwed it down.

    Katherine Williams -

  4. tNeWnWVjptZlHXJd

    • Entferne die folgenden fünf Schrauben, die den Akku am Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Drei 6,3 mm Torx T5 Schrauben

    • Zwei 2,4 mm Torx T5 Schrauben

    Les couleurs ne me semblent pas justes.

    drixe -

    The screw heads are made of a soft butter like chinese metal and will easily get f*cked up. take care when reinstalling to not mess them up.

    John Hamilton -

    les couleur sont justes; die rot markierten Schrauben oben und mitte sind länger als die unteren.

    I had used the P5 driver there, too (just gently put the bit into the screws and see that’ll fit.

    jmhoraze -

    The battery doesn’t actually need to come out for this repair if you’re confident working in tight spaces.

    J Kemp -

    Ich habe ein Problem die Schrauben von dem Akku mit dem gelieferten Schraubenzieher-Set rauszudrehen. Nur die Schraube in der Mitte konnte ich rausdrehen. Brauche ich einen anderen Schraubenzieher? Sollen die beiden Schraubenzieher aus dem mitgelieferten Set zu den Akku-Schrauben passen? Danke für eure Hilfe im Voraus! Alex

    Alex -

    Ich habe das Problem gelöst! Akku ist eingebaut. Mein Mac Air läuft wieder!

    Danke!

    Alex

    Alex -

  5. SA2DQYQFbWJNcDnF

    • Achte darauf, den Akku nicht zu quetschen und die vier Polymer-Zellen möglichst nicht zu berühren.

    • Hebe den Akku von der Seite des Logic Boards aus an und entferne ihn vorsichtig aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Wenn ein dünner Plastikfilm auf deinem Ersatzakku aufgeklebt ist, dann entferne diesen nicht vor dem Einbau des Akkus. Er ist festgeklebt und schützt den Akkupack im Inneren des MacBook.

    • Wenn du einen neuen Akku einbaust, solltest du ihn nach dem Einbau kalibrieren:

    • Lade den Akku vollständig und lasse das MacBook danach für mindestens 2 Stunden weiter eingesteckt. Verwende jetzt das MacBook, bis es wegen geringem Akkustand von selbst in den Standby-Modus geht. Warte jetzt noch mindestens 5 Stunden, bevor du das MacBook wieder auf 100% auflädst.

    • Wenn nach dem Einbau des neuen Akkus Probleme auftreten, kann es helfen, den SMC zurückzusetzen.

    Quick note about the replacement battery, if you bought from iFixit and the battery sections have a thin film over them, peel them off. They're to protect the battery during transit, and if you leave them on they might cause heating issues.

    Here is a link to my question about it: Replacement battery has thin film on each section do I need to remove? plus, I just got an email from iFixit customer support that it needs to be removed.

    dpchoung -

    thank you for the help! I installed the proper batt properly following the advice from here;-) Mahalo from Hawaii-

    zzzikaikazzz -

    Does replacement battery for Macbook Air 13" Mid 2012 works with Mac OS Sierra 10.12.3 and up?

    Benny Forsberg -

    I installed the battery (OEM Apple) for the Mac Air 2013 throygh 2015:

    1. the battery for the Mac Air 2012 throygh 2015 was stated to may have compatibility problems;

    2. lesser price;

    no problems with macOS Sierra.

    jmhoraze -

    Replaced it in no time! Thank you and cheers from Slovenia (that’s the one who beat you in hockey few days ago

    Mark Ogner -

    iFixit should really clarify whether the film covering each of the battery packs should or should not be removed. Based on dpchoung’s comment I removed this film. It was not obvious or easy to remove and as I was doing it I realized that maybe this was not a good idea as I was concerned the packs might be damaged in the removal process. I suspect most people don’t bother with this film. Later, clicking on the forum exchange I see conflicting advice. My guess is that the film provides added protection and has minimal impact on thermal issues. I am sorry I went through the bother of removing the film and hope no damage was done.

    Mark Young -

    Ich hab’ gelesen, dass neu eingebaute Batterien kalibriert werden müssen: https://www.newertech.com/batteries/powe...

    hjsalchow -

    Step 1 has an error, at least for me. I believe the 10 pentalobe screws are size P4, not P5. My Wiha P5 pentalobe screwdriver was too big for the screws, but my smaller P4 pentalobe screwdriver worked fine.

    BrianM -

    Great here. Replacement was a breeze. Thanks guys.

    DanielFerrer -

    Why should I wait 5 hours after draining the battery before charging it again?

    thomas.ss -

    It’s part of the calibration process—leaving it dead for awhile ensures that the battery drains low enough to reset the full discharge flag in the battery management system. If you skip that part, your battery may not calibrate properly. (It’ll still work fine, but the battery’s % charge status in macOS may be unreliable and/or behave in odd ways.) If you had to skip it for some reason, you can recalibrate at any time.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After I replaced the battery, I plugged the charger in to start calibration and the computer started by itself. As soon as this happened I turned it off. Can this be an issue?

    How do I know the battery is 100% charged?

    Thank you

    tobias.a94 -

    It might be obvious to most people, but no mention of plugging in the battery connector when installing the new battery. I missed that part at first. Overall great instructions and finished quickly.

    Staci Thompson -

    It went well, thank you. One comment though, I prefer to put the connector back before installing the new battery since the cable is not flexible enough.

    ricochapuis -

    Replaced my new battery for a mid 2011 MacBook Air but now the battery icon says it’s not charging

    Mike Bridgewater -

    how do i dispose of the old battery responsibly?

    Jonathan Peters -

    +1 curious about this. Should be added to the guide

    Travis Todd -

    Why shouldn’t I touch the lithium polymer cells? Is that on removal, too? Is it dangerous for me or just the battery (like getting finger oils on a halogen bulb)? Would it be beneficial to wear thin latex gloves?

    Andrew Greenseid -

    After Installation my MacBook does not start, but there are peep tones 3x in a row and this repeats until I press power for few seconds. Any clue what this could be?

    b.winkler343 -

    Installation was very easy. Works perfect for me and battery is now fully charged and running.

    Andreas Otte -

    Installation was a breeze thanks to your tips.

    KAT VELASQUEZ -

    Easy. Now onward with the rest of the calibration.

    Thx

    G J L -

    When placing the new battery in, reconnect it first before screwing into place.

    Owen Moseley -

    The battery film issue. The film pictured in the guide covers each individual battery. The guide also states it is glued on. My iFixit replacement battery had a different kind of film that covered the whole battery module. It was not precise fit and was loosely stuck on rather than permanently glued. It was obviously the kind that is used to protect from scratches in packaging/shipping. It peeled off easily with no residue. My conclusion is the warning is meant for film on individual batteries. For the iFixit one I received, the film was meant to be peeled.

    Kasey Speakman -

    I have installed the battery replacement for a MBA Mid 2012 and it’s working, but the battery temperature is somehow stuck at around 26 degree Celsius. Even if you do a stresstest with 27 Watt the temperature is falling from 26.25 to 26,15. So it ssems to me that the temperature measurement isn’t correct. In other MBA Mid 2012 with original Battery the temperature range is from ambient to 41 degree.

    Don’t know if the wrong temperature has an impact on the lifetime of the battery, as the battery controller should limit currents according to temperature.

    Robert Schmidt -

    Does the battery simply come straight out?

    It isn't stuck down?

    Cary B -

    very easy - was gifted MBA but battery life was 'r/s' - vacuumed out fluff etc from machine & fan while back was off (was a technician in a previous life) .. now performing calibration. I'll write down the settings, then set energy saver to 'never' for both battery & power adaptor when it comes time to discharge the battery, then reset to original values after final charge. Fingers crossed (it's a helluva lot easier than 'Blackberry trackballs')

    Garth Lancaster -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektroabfall fachgerecht.

War die Reparatur doch nicht erfolgreich? Auf unserem Antwortenforum kannst du Hilfe finden.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

72 Kommentare

Done! Now my Macbook Air has a new lease on life! I travel a lot and need good battery life on my Macbook so that I can work on flights, work throughout the day in meetings, do presentations etc.,

I ordered the battery and a pentelobe screwdriver from iFixit - they arrived quickly and as as promised in South Africa. The replacement took just a few minutes. The guide was very helpful and easy to follow. Now I have 6 hours of battery life again (or maybe a few minutes less ;-)

Thanks guys. I am very happy!

digitaldion -

@digitaldion, Could you share what is time on a single charge now, after almost a year of active(?) use?

yurkennis -

I had spilled Iced Tea all over my new laptop. Soaked it in rice, but it only would work when it was plugged in. I read replacing the battery would fix it. Ordered the battery...came in 2 days, and I used the repair guide. Worked with 100% success and now my laptop runs like it's brand new.

Zane Dunnings -

Did it! In less then 4 minutes. One extra tip: when you remove the screws, put them backwards on the table in the same pattern as you took them out. It saves time and avoids frustration :-) Thanks iFixit!

rkamphuis -

Done! That was actually quite easy; I can't believe how easy it was to do. When I ordered the battery I also ordered the iFixit 54 Bit Driver Kit and I have to say that I will likely never have to buy any screwdrivers again for any computer related fix-ups I have to do. Thanks!

Berge -

Just did it! The guide made the job really simple. I had absolutely no problem during the process. It is just as easy as it seems! Thanks, iFixit!

Hugo -

super easy job!

ian -

I changed the battery. It was very esay. However the MBA has now become very very slow. Can anyone explain this?

Michael Iversen -

It's because incompatible battery model. It requires A1405.

Dennis Dir -

Replaced the new battery with my old one. Now everything works as normal again. What is this about. Please notice that the new battey is an original Apple battey - not a copy product.

Michael Iversen -

> Please notice that the new battey is an original Apple battey - not a copy product.

How can you be sure it is original?

yurkennis -

I suspect they just re-use the original apple battery trays and put third party battery packs in them. The two batteries I ordered had Apple trays, but one was in a sealed box and the other box had no seal with a hand-written sticker on the battery tray. Plus, there was wear on the battery tray screw holes which tells me they have been used before.

Munky -

The replacement itself was easy enough, but it did not solve my problem - any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I have a Macbook Air 13" mid 2011, the battery only got to 121 cycles before it stopped holding a charge at all and I could only use the laptop when plugged into the power adapter. The battery status says "Not Charging" and the adapter status light does not glow when connected (it does function normally when plugged into any other computer, so the adapter is not the issue). The second it becomes disconnected the computer shuts down.

I just replaced the battery, one I ordered from iFixIt and the computer recognizes it, but it says cycle count: 0 and condition: replace now.

Charge Information:

Charge Remaining (mAh): 2545

Fully Charged: No

Charging: No

Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 6620

Health Information:

Cycle Count: 0

Condition: Replace Now

Battery Installed: Yes

Amperage (mA): 0

Voltage (mV): 7575

I'm at a total loss for what to do next to solve this problem. Any ideas?

crystalh -

Check if the MagSafe port on your MacBook is intact — the small middle prong which is responsible for detecting and identifying the charger might be damaged. If it can't identify the charger, it will resort to only powering your laptop (as long as the other prongs work), but not charging it. As soon as you disconnect it, it shuts down because the battery is drained.

rale09 -

Super easy replacement job, and now my battery is like brand new again!

LeonC -

Don't forget the Torx T5!

I already had a Torx set, so only bought the P5 driver, but turns out my set only went down to T6 :-(

Brian Candler -

The first battery I received was faulty - it kept suddenly cutting out while in use - but iFixit were brilliant in sending a replacement immediately.

Hint: if after changing the battery your Macbook doesn't "bong" when it powers on (and you'd like to to!) then you can fix this by resetting the PRAM. See https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3...

Brian Candler -

Very great guide... coupled with the purchase of screwdriver / batter... phenomenal!

Thank you iFixIt!

Brendan Roche -

Worked suberb! Thumbs up for the guide and the new battery!

robertbadas -

Delivery and replacement were fast and easy. After booting up I checked the new battery with Coconut Battery and found the load cycles at 1 which was what I expected. The age of the battery was indicated as 37 months old and thus older than my MacBook Air. That's not what I expected.

Don't batteries get old from just lying around?

Skyynet -

Am I the only one having trouble getting the screws out?

patrickdidomenico -

My battery screws are the 6 pointed star ones, not the 5 pointed. Maybe you have the same?

effie -

The Ifixit P5 Pentalobe screw driver worked great to remove the Loctite cemented 51 PR case screws. The 5 battery screws are T5 Torx 6 pointed screws.

Cody Morgan -

I just did this repair, and it went very smoothly. The only problem I had with the instructions were that the screws on the battery were not the same 5-pointed stars as the one on the case. My battery has 6 pointed star screws. Luckily, I have both screwdrivers so this wasn't an issue. My connector also looked a bit different than the one in the photo, so maybe my laptop came from a different batch...?

effie -

Maybe they edited the instructions, but as they are written today, the interior battery screws are torx and different from the case screws.

ethicalpaul -

Apple says these batteries need to be calibrated by an Apple technician and that's why replacement should be entrusted to Apple only. Does anyone know what Apple's pre-calibration process entails?

Julianps -

I'm not saying that I know this for a fact concerning the Apple batteries, but often with Lithium (and this applies to the iPhone as well), draining the battery to 0, then giving it a full charge is basically the calibration.

john -

Calibration is very simple to do, and instructions are given in the final step of this guide. If you can do the physical repair, you are more than capable of calibrating the battery.

Jeff Suovanen -

Well that was easy. Ordered the kit from ifixit. Took about 20 mins to take apart and change the battery. All good.

Lee

lee19apgar -

Just completed my battery replacement and everything is working perfectly (with currently several hours of use). When removing the screws, I found it a little difficult using the iFixit brand "P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver". This is the screwdriver with the yellow handle. It felt as though it didn't actually enter the screw holes and was just barely fitting into it. I haven't used it, but I recommend the $11-12 one, especially if you plan on performing this procedure on other macbooks.

christianchew62 -

Success!

Battery Guard details before->after http://fs2.directupload.net/images/15082...

Thank you iFixit

Michael Seitz -

Ordered the battery and two screwdrivers linked from this page. The screws weren't laid out exactly as in the guide, but I did end up needing both screwdrivers. The replacement went pretty quick, but afterwards the battery status was being shown as "Condition: Replace Now" and was not charging. I did an SMC reset, which did not help. I then opened it back up and pressed on the parts mentioned in MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 I/O Board Replacement to make sure they were seated correctly, in addition to plugging and unplugging the battery. Afterwards, seems to be working correctly, thankfully.

yaneeka -

Was very easy!! Remember to blow off your dusty fan when you're in there, it will cool down your mac considerably.

lesveur -

Super easy agree - the only thing that i was a bit tenuous on was the Pentalobe screws because the screw driver i bought from you barely fit into the screw recess - sketchy can not tell if it was a poor tool or that was the way it was suppose to be.

andy

andrew keller -

Did anyone had the following problem: after changing the battery, closing the MacBook Air, it's switching on when the charger is plugged, but the keyboard (including the on/off key) is not working any more and the fans are turning high speed?

Then, it's impossible to switch it off (as keyboard seems not to be recognised), neither to reboot or reinitiate SMC, etc...

Thanks by advance

alainjoubert -

Thank You, I did it!!!

Celeste Fontanez -

Super easy. Took me < 10 mins.

Thanks so much for the excellent guide.

Shahid Hussain -

Simple, easy, 5 minutes, but what a great outcome! Same battery since 2012. Now my Air feels new again!

Thanks for the tutorial.

cheers

ekoh

ekoh dubois -

Easy repair...thanks!

Chance Hope -

Easy install. Took me less than 10 minutes with the right tools I ordered in a kit separately from Ifixit.

Jon Allen McCarty -

Super erklärt, es war wirklich einfach! Danke an den Autor! Und Danke an ifixit!

Arno Hartmann -

hello ifixit

I need a little help

I am living in middle east I have MacBook air 13" A1370 I need to change the battery but I cant find it here it is available for mac book Air 11"

so can I fit 11"s battery to 13" mac?

please help

drift_king669 -

Excellent guide! It took me roughly 20 min, but only because I was extremely cautious.

Alberto -

Worked magnificently! Just a hint: on the way back I found it easier to do first 3 and then 5

Alberto -

Do we remove the plastic cover the 4 lithium batteries?

Kevin Jose -

Are we supposed to remove the plastic off the batteries??

letstryandsee -

I did remove it, as the original battery didn't had these plastic sheets over the li-ion cells. I figured it serves as an additional safeguard against accidental punctures in the cells during transit.

My advice: be extra careful while peeling the plastic sheets, as the adhesive is super-strong, and you definitely don't want to bend the battery cells!

Fabricio -

This is easy! I have no idea why they marked it moderate. Buy the tools they sell. Buy the battery from them and do it yourself. Much cheaper and much easier than anywhere else. Did I mention it is easy? Just make sure you follow the instruction on pulling the battery cable and it will be EASY.

Joe Wasser -

I was looking for this project for a long time. Finally all parts were available in EU iFixit store, I was impressed delivery only took 2 days, thanks for Haribo candies ;). Replacement took no longer than 15 mins and now my Macbook Air is like it was just put out of the box which was 5 years ago. I measured average time use, with old batter (1144 cycle count) it was around 1:45 at max, now I am running for 2:22 hours at 50% while installing apps, listening music and so on (did High Sierra install while during this time). My expectation that it will be around 5hrs heavy-medium use and perhaps even close to 6hrs doing light work.

Battery before after, http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4883/...

Maros Kukan -

I had so much fun! Thank you ifixit, for empowering me to do this job cheaper than my local Mac store (who would have probably lost a couple more screws like they did last time, anyway). Shipping was fast and allowed me to hit a work deadline. Next time I get in a bind, I know exactly where to go! <3

Kimberly Drew -

10 outta 10 !

Vincent Fiset -

J ai du réinitialisé le mac pour qu il reconnaisse la batterie ouf cela marche simple défaire le contact de la batterie appuyer dix secondes sur le on off ou suppr sur un clavier US rebrancher et cela marche ouf !

TISSERAND ANNICK -

I’ve replaced the battery and it powers up fine but the track pad now feels kinda “loose” does anyone else have the same problem? When hitting the very bottom of the track pad it now react to slight touch where before it was stiffer.

Basil -

Same problem here. After replacing the battery the touchpad lifts up on the lower end (towards the user) and has a higher level than the case. It stands out about 0.5 to 1mm. Any solution for that @ifixit?

Tobias Marks -

After comparison to the original battery, the new one is a little bit thicker than the original one at the area underneath the touchpad. Any chance to get a better one that fits?

Tobias Marks -

@biasx Yeah that doesn’t sound right at all! Sorry for the frustration. If you bought your battery from iFixit, give the customer support team a shout and they’ll get you squared away.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have the same issue. It’s becoming annoying. Any updates?

James Lin -

I did replace the battery following all instructions above. It was easy. I connected the computer to power adaptor and the newly battery was charged to 100% without trouble. Then, I disconnected computer from power adaptor (battery was 100%) and left computer working to see how long it would take to empty battery (i.e, doing the first cycle). After 10-15 minutes, the computer crashed and lost power. I had to connect the power adaptor again (green light is on) but now the computer starts and crashes after a short while. It says that battery is not charging (is at 91%) but then crashes.

Please, any help will be welcome. What should I do?

D

Domingos Henrique -

Das ist leider nicht der richtige Schraubendreher…. Hier wird der Pentalobe P5 angegeben….!! Bei dem MBA 2011 ist es ist aber der Pentalobe-Schraubendreher Größe TS4 1,2mm!! Ärgerlich…

T Bo -

Took 5 minutes and my Macbook air now has full capacity. It’s 7 years old so I really should have replaced it sooner. Thanks iFixIt!

donaljoconnor -

Wow, that was easy! I agree with everyone before me that said that the only “difficult” part is disconnecting the battery (pull towards you, not up on the tab!). Reconnecting it can be challenging too if you’re not patient. Also, screwing in all the tiny screws can drive you nuts. Patience! Anyhow, I’m glad that I did this myself. Oh, and yeah, my mid-2011 MacBook Air is still chugging along in 2019! Thanks for the guide and iFixit for the replacement battery and screwdrivers!

Rudy K Campos -

Replacement was a breeze.

Chris Birdsey -

Did it! In about 5 minutes, it was quite easy. Thanks!

Jan Krüger -

ifixit! Easy to follow the guide and reading some of the comments also helped…except for the unhooking the battery with the clear plastic…it should be ‘just pull the clear plastic towards the battery to unhook it’, not ‘pull it up’. Overall, still so easy. Now my MacBook Air 13” Mid 2011 is as good as new! The replacement battery is compatible with my Mac version 10.13.6 with the Mac OS High Sierra in it! Also, it kinda slowed down when the battery is not working (just plugged in), now it’s fast again. Thanks fixit.com! Thanks also for the Apple staff who told me about fixit.com! And ofcourse thanks for the guide!

Democrito Rebong -

Thank you for everything you do for us.

You gave back life to my ‘old’ mid-2011 MacBook Air with a fully matching battery (with even better specs than the original in terms of power and capacity).

christophe.ravier -

Super easy to fix! it took me 15 mins tops!!!

Mike Larson -

Seamless process from order to self-installation. I made the mistake of purchasing a replacement battery on Amazon and within a week had to return it due to issues with the battery. The iFixit product has been perfect since installing it last week. Have already recommended their services to my friends!

olhunt -

Worked perfectly well. Thanks!

Bastien Rachet -

My local Mac repair shop wouldn’t even do a diagnostic on the machine for me telling me that it was considered obsolete. My MacBook Air 2011 wouldn’t hold a charge, but would run just fine on the power cord.

This replacement battery took a few days to arrive and less than ten minutes to install.

My “obsolete” MacBook Air works perfectly fine now and its back to work with it!

Charles Riser -

Thanks iFixit for the tools, the battery and the know-how. 2011 Mac Air now running again with only a short time needed during lunch break to switch out the old Li ion block. Very keen to repair more tech now!

d alexander -

Guys, my original old battery had 7.3V and 6700mha. The new one has 7.6V and 8000mha. Can this cause any damage on the parts or chips, for having higher voltage or capacity?

guiwarriors -

Battery works great but now my camera is showing as disconnected… any way to fix that without having to replace the entire display assembly? The replacement part is out of stock here anyway. Thanks

Betty Lo -