MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2012 Displayeinheit austauschen

Geschrieben von: Andrew Optimus Goldheart
  • Kommentare: 151
MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2012 Displayeinheit austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

35

Zeitaufwand

45 Minuten - 1 Stunde

Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch einer defekten Displayeinheit gezeigt.

  1. ntWnApPFnVyDIwGF

    • Bevor du anfängst, fahre dein MacBook herunter. Schließe das Display und lege dein MacBook mit der Unterseite nach oben auf eine weiche Unterlage.

    • Benutze einen P5 Pentalobe-Schraubendreher, um folgende zehn Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 9 mm Schrauben

    • Acht 2,6 mm Schrauben

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison -

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer -

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m -

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew -

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith -

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov -

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir -

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock -

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner -

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton -

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach -

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev -

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog -

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 -

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement -

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell -

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis -

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love -

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand -

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross -

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent -

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian -

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath -

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi -

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong -

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole -

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt -

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert -

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen -

  2. AuaSrWoUvoATMoyN

    • Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.

    • Entferne das hintere Gehäuse und lege es beiseite.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley -

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel -

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH -

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes -

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc -

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY -

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus -

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson -

  3. HBwCSILQab5ttTvP
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    • Als Vorsichtsmaßnahme gegen versehentliches Entladen oder einen Elektroschock, trenne die Akkusteckverbindung vom Logic Board.

    • Nimm die durchsichtige Abziehlasche aus Kunststoff, die an der Akkusteckverbindung befestigt ist, und ziehe sie in Richtung der Vorderseite des Airs, um den Akku von dem Logic Board zu trennen.

    • Achte darauf, die Steckverbindung horizontal in Richtung des Akkus zu ziehen und nicht gerade nach oben vom Air weg, da andernfalls die Fassung auf dem Logic Board Schaden nehmen kann.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski -

    My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.

    Ric Thistlethwaite -

    I don’t see my socket on logic board, how can I fix it

    QUYNH PHAM -

  4. TDAOCQPobChhu4ab

    • Heble mit dem flache Ende eines Spudgers den Stecker des I/O Blendenkabels aus seiner Fassung auf der I/O Blende.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben -

    Hi, Can the 13” Logicboard of 2012/2013/2014 or 2015 be compatible in the 2011 model?.

    verma1986 -

    This is ridiculous.

    From this point, skip ahead to step 18. There is no need to perform steps five through 17.

    AnnoniMoose -

    I am glad I saw your comment. This saved me a lot of time and allowed me to miss many points of failure. thanks.

    norsk4sure -

  5. md53vHhxMXncK142

    • Löse das I/O Blendenkabel vorsichtig von der Oberseite des Lüfters.

  6. yctMokPOfrNwiZAf
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    • Der folgende Anschluss hat eine besonders tiefgelegte Fassung. Sei vorsichtig, wenn du ihn ablöst.

    • Während du vorsichtig das I/O Blendenkabel nach oben in Richtung seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board ziehst, heble mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers abwechselnd auf beiden Seiten des Anschlusses, um ihn nach und nach aus seiner Fassung zu lösen.

    • Entferne das I/O Blendenkabel.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis -

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard -

  7. xGDACPNg6taXS3GW

    • Klappe mit der Spudgerspitze vorsichtig die Halteklappe auf dem ZIF-Sockel des Lüftungskabels hoch.

    • Stelle sicher, dass du an der schwenkbaren Halteklappe hebelst und nicht an der Fassung selbst.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto -

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed -

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom -

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard -

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko -

    The hardest part is to put the fan cable back in the ZIF socket.

    (Why do people say you don’t have to unplug the cable? that makes no sense)

    Digital Blended -

    after putting the cable back in the fan is very loud, can someone help?

    Ramon majem -

    Be very careful when locking the ZIF connector during reassembling. This was my first time seeing a ZIF connector, the retaining flap plastic bounced when I was reassembling the I/O board ( I didn’t pushed so hard though) and a struggled nearly 1 hour to reassemble it. Same connector, be careful. It was a nightmare, thank god it didn’t broke!

    Berkin Birol -

    Quick note, when u install the new fan, i inserted the ribbon cable back in the zif socket first with a pair of tweezers then screw the fan back in.

    robdroby -

    I see comments suggesting not to remove the ribbon cable. This would work. Simply flip the fan like the page of a book, from right to left, thereby getting it out of the way while you remove the i/o board. Flip it from left to right when you reinstall. This approach would save some frustration, as it is a challenge to reinsert that tiny ribbon into position.

    If you do remove the ribbon, reinsert it before repositioning the fan. That will give you more play as to fiddle with the ribbon.

    Mark -

  8. qUQagwgA3SyJSlqZ

    • Löse die Gummidichtung vom Kleber oben auf dem Lüfter.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi -

    Where can I purchase a replacement gasket? It’s missing after the repair place opened my computer

    Erin Kaspar-Frett -

    Should I put some adhesive back when reasembling?

    Marco -

  9. JkFbWGVELGUa3sDJ

    • Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen den Lüfter an der oberen Schale befestigt ist:

    • Eine 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 2,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube mit einem kurzen Kopf.

    So far great

    Joseph Sperber -

    When reinstalling, start all three screws before tightening down. There’s some play in these holes, and you will have trouble lining them up if you tighten one down first.

    Curtis Kline -

    I just replaced the the i/o board and it went fine, but I think I broke the screw holder on the top left side of the fan, and now can get the screw out - the computer still runs - i was wonder can I get a way with that one screw not holding it down?

    ilarkin1 -

    Same here. The screw socket was broken for the 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw. Is there a way to re-solder the socket? Or support the fan. It’s making a horrible noise now :(

    Jason -

  10. WJylrjPZcYcgBDKb

    • Hebe den Lüfter aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus und ziehe das Flachbandkabel des Lüfters vorsichtig aus seiner Fassung heraus, wenn du es vom Air entfernst.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 -

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon -

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries -

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey -

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen -

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett -

    So I did the replacement according to this guide, with a replacement fan purchased from iFixit, and the fan would not spin even under heavy load! I took out the fan, and noticed that there was quite a lot of resistance when I spun the blades manually. It turns out, the fan was slightly squashed flat near the vent so that the resulting friction prevented the blades from spinning free. I un-squashed the fan, re-installed it, and the fan is spinning! The moral of the story is to make sure the blades can spin free when installing a new fan.

    Hiroshi -

    On reassembly, I found it hard to reinsert this ribbon cable, so did step 11 again. I disconnected the I/O board, connected the fan and snapped the retainer down on the ribbon cable, then undid step 11 (ie. I connected the I/O board again). As others have said, a brilliant step-by-step guide, and slloeing comments is a great idea too.

    Jim Henderson -

    nice! Congrats!

    Luis -

  11. pGjF2SkPJJqQamEl

    • Trenne das I/O Board, indem du das Versorgungskabel aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board ziehst.

    • Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards in Richtung der rechten Kante des Air.

    You can skip the following five steps if you are just trying to remove the logic board—the I/O board can stay put, and it won’t hinder logic board removal.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  12. YgRIQGX3DxVNH2JH

    • Ziehe das Kamerakabel parallel zur Oberfläche des I/O Board in Richtung des Scharniers des Air und löse es so aus seinem Anschluss. Hilf mit der Spudgerspitze beim Herausdrücken des Steckers aus dem Anschluss.

    • Hebe dieses Kabel beim Lösen nicht nach oben, sonst könnte der Anschluss aus dem Logic Board herausbrechen.

    Use the corner of the flat edge of a spudger to push alternately on the metal ears to help disconnect the cable.

    peteragries -

    And when reinstalling, push the metal ears from behind to snap the connector back into the socket

    peteragries -

    In my model (model identifier: MacBookAir6,2), the camera cable connector was found located on the logic board.

    Kuro Kurosaka -

  13. T2dHcBpelkhnPwTe

    • Hebele den Stecker am Kabel zum linken Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch und aus seinem Anschluss auf dem I/O Board heraus.

    • Hebele unter den Drähten.

    Don’t use a spludger!!!!! Use tweezers or a super thin flat head. Spludger is too thick…

    Jared Thiel -

    Well, dangit. I used a spludger, and now I’ve got two gold wires just hangin’ out. Think it’s salvageable?

    jeff elrod -

    If you have 2 ‘gold wires’ hanging out (assuming that you’re referring to the connectors and not bare wires!), you’ll have to inspect them under ‘high’ magnification (40x loupe would do) and make sure the tabs are propped out so that when you plug them back into the connector they’ll grab the connector (and don’t slip out when you attempt to plug the connector in). Inspect the connector to see what orientation to insert the connector plugs in. Mate the tabs on the plug with the surface opening on the plastic connector housing.

    anonymous 6745 -

    I used a pair of tweezers. One (tweezer) end under the plastic connector, then squeezed the other (tweezer) on top of the plastic connector. Gently wiggled up and down and the connector easily popped out.

    Mark Kilpatrick -

  14. S1SeeBbNwuK1AwTC
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    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Flachbandkabel zum Mikrofon auf dem I/O Board mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.

    • Entferne das Flachbandkabel zur Lautstärkeregelung mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem ZIF Anschluss auf dem I/O Board.

    This is throwing me for a loop. It won't fit back in. Are the volume and mic cable the same cable?

    david nieto -

    Use the tip of the spudger on the plastic ear at the back of the connector (the ear is on the battery side), to push the connector out of the socket.

    peteragries -

    This step (14) appears to use two different names for the same cable: microphone ribbon cable and volume button ribbon cable. This is confusing because the photos appear to show only a single cable being disconnected from a ZIF socket.

    sjosefw -

    Be very careful when locking the ZIF connector during reassembling. This was my first time seeing a ZIF connector, the retaining flap bounced ( I didn’t pushed so hard though) and a struggled nearly 1 hour to reassemble it. It was a nightmare, thank god it didn’t broke!

    Berkin Birol -

    I found it was easier to perform removal of the cable until step 16 when I was removing the I/O board.

    Mark Kilpatrick -

  15. 2fMNnpvKjLZWIw1W

    • Entferne die einzelne 4,0 mm Torx T5 Schraube, welche das I/O Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt.

    On reassembly, it's good to line up the screwhole in the corner of this board with the hole below it, so the fan screw can be replaced properly.

    Jim Henderson -

  16. BZkpAxpCrTaGoVKZ

    • Hebe das I/O Board vorsichtig an der Kante nahe des Logic Boards hoch und entferne sie vom oberen Gehäuse.

    Be careful when reassembling the I/O board. The USB and headphone jacks should be oriented well, otherwise USB dongles won’t fit even if it looks well adjusted.

    Berkin Birol -

  17. 6K6cSvZBYmJEqm6M

    • Entferne die folgenden fünf Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse festmachen.

    • Drei 6,3 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 2,4 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

    Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

    Mike Dacre -

  18. svlceHyQmLc4SlFL

    • Vermeide beim Umgang mit dem Akku die vier Lithium-Polymer-Zellen einzudrücken oder zu berühren.

    • Hebe den Akku von der Logic Board-Seite her an und entferne sie aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

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    • Klappe den Halteclip auf dem ZIF Sockel des Tastfeld-Flachbandkabels mit der Spudgerspitze oder einem Fingernagel nach oben.

    • Achte darauf, an dem klappbaren Halteclip zu hebeln und nicht direkt am Sockel.

    • Ziehe das Tastfeld-Flachbandkabel gerade aus seinem Sockel heraus in Richtung der vorderen Kante des Geräts.

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson -

    I lost the retaining flap so I don’t know if it can stay in place without the retaining flap

    SK Alias -

  20. 26x2mxNFQNjqcFy5
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    • Klappe den Halteclip des Flachbandkabel des ZIF-Sockels der Tatsturhintergrundbeleuchtung mit der Spudgerspitze nach oben.

    • Achte darauf, an dem klappbaren Halteclip zu hebeln und nicht direkt am Sockel.

    • Verwende den Spudger, um das Kabel aus der Fassung herauszuholen.

  21. NMFq34d1KowEZwie

    • Heble den Kabelstecker der rechten Lautsprechers mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne ihn von seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board.

    • Setze mit dem Hebeln unterhalb der Kabel an.

    To snap back in, place speaker cable connector directly on top of socket and press down with your finger or tool.

    anonymous 6745 -

    This has to be done very gently. I only applied a mild lift and the socket broke off from the board. I had to say good-bye to the right speaker. :-(

    Kuro Kurosaka -

    Read my comment about using tweezers for the left speaker cable connector. But for some reason, the right connector was a little more tight and took more effort than the left speaker cable connector.

    Mark Kilpatrick -

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    • Drücke vorsichtig die Spudgerspitze gegen den schwarzen Kunststoffclip, der am Displaydatenkabelschloss angebracht ist, so dass das Schloss nach oben und weg von dem Sockel poppt.

    • Während du das Schloss von der Fassung auf Abstand hälst, entferne mit einem Spudger und deinen Fingern das Displaydatenkabel aus seiner Fassung.

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel nicht nach oben, wenn du es trennst, da ansonsten die Fassung vom Logic Board brechen kann.

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes -

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

    You should place the tip of the spudger on top of the connector and push out. At first I had the tip of the spudger on the bottom and tried to push up and that was incorrect.

    Mark Kilpatrick -

  23. 3LFmTyGYQY2FCAXH
    3LFmTyGYQY2FCAXH
    kDScRNQOoHVGVCTo

    • Heble beide Antennenkabelstecker mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne sie aus ihren Sockeln auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC -

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen -

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham -

  24. C5ccyvfJpYDwhYtW

    • Hole die Antennenkabel vorsichtig aus ihren Slots auf dem Logic Board.

  25. i6a4NeJdAQ6AaIFk

    • Entferne die einzelne 2,85 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der die SSD am Logic Board befestigt ist.

  26. xSOPJU2j26YFYOLD
    xSOPJU2j26YFYOLD
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    • Um Schäden am Anschluss zu vermeiden, hebe das Ende der SSD nicht zu stark an.

    • Ziehe das Laufwerk gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus und entferne es vom Logic Board.

    • Wenn du die SSD wieder einsetzt, gehe sicher, dass sie richtig positioniert ist, bevor du die Schraube wieder eindrehst.

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 -

  27. NtEXvesjKHkLKitt

    • Entferne die sechs 6,3 mm T5 Torx Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button -

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button -

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe -

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater -

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love -

  28. o4CW5xU4RPKgXWeF

    • Entferne die inneren zwei 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schrauben, mit denen der Antennenkabelhalter und das linke Kupplungsscharnier am oberen Gehäuse festgemacht ist.

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy -

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 -

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham -

    fyi, mine were T8

    jmull -

    My hinge screws were T9, and fit very snugly. If your screwdrivers are not a precision set, such that the T9 is too tight, you can use T8, but it won’t be good for the screw heads.

    Josh -

    Mine were T8 and my T8 bit worked fine.

    Mark Kilpatrick -

  29. Fr26HfIScpCDwxhX

    • Bewege den Antennenkabelhalter etwas beiseite und entferne die 3 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der das Ende des Wärmeableiters am oberen Gehäuse festgemacht ist.

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis -

    When I was re-assembling, the screw hole of the heat sink didn’t align. I applied a mild force then the edge of the heat sink broke off from the rest, losing the contact to the case. I am hoping the Air would work for a while during the test run (if it ever works) but I would buy a replacement heat sink for regular use.

    Kuro Kurosaka -

  30. 2YFhbnVXyfVZdKFI

    • Entferne die Logic Board Einheit vorsichtig vom obere Gehäuse und achte dabei auf Kabel, die im Weg sein könnten.

    • Achte darauf, dass die Antennenkabel nicht im Weg sind, wenn du die Wärmeableiter-Seite des Logic Boards aus dem oberen Gehäuse hebst.

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi -

    Removal of logic board and all the steps leading up to it I found unnecessary. They may be good for some but I really didn't need to dismantle the laptop as much as this guide shows to get the display off. Just my opinion, of course.

    Kevin Ginther -

  31. dYHLo4NZhL2ebqAj

    • Hole vorsichtig die Antennenkabel aus ihrem Kanal im oberen Gehäuseteil.

  32. SWfekvE2tXovZmh2

    • Entferne die inneren beiden 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schrauben, die das rechte Displayscharnier am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Die dritte Schraube lassen wir absichtlich eingedreht, da das von Vorteil für die nächsten Schritte ist.

    Again, these are T9 screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy -

    Dear all,

    on my Air I dropped water and now the display looks without backlight... I can type with no issue, as well the backlight of the keyboard is working fine, audio too but the display doesn't show the light also if boosted at top. What's happened?

    Thanks,

    sev7en -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    Like in Step28 I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. Comes in handy in Step 33 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 -

    Does anyone know if it will work without the display assembly all together? I just want to remove it and plug into an external monitor.

    Andrew White -

    I recommend to loosen outward screws at this step, so it is easier to completely unscrew them on the next step.

    yurkennis -

    My tip is to open the case so the screen is 90º to the base and then lay the MBA down with the keyboard on the work surface with the screen hanging down the front of your work bench. This makes it much easier to work with and reassembly is much easier.

    If you follow this tip, go ahead and take all the remaining four hinge screws out now. You can now easily lift off the lid and set it aside. Now skip to step 36.

    Reassembly Hint: Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh -

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws and then to replace those 2 screws when re-assembling.

    Andrew Gordon -

  33. aXJkEAHUkqcbtZBq

    • Öffne das Display, bis es senkrecht zum oberen Gehäuseteil steht und platziere es, wie auf dem Bild zu sehen, auf einen Tisch.

    • Während du das Air festhältst, entferne die übriggebliebene 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schraube von der unteren Displayklammer.

    During reassembly, once the two screws are in the left and right hinges, close the laptop and flip it over so that the display is down on the table. Run your fingers along the edge of the laptop where the display meets the lower assembly. If it is not flush, loosen the two screws in the hinges slightly and adjust, then retighten.

    Ethan Cross -

  34. CjlYEwEGdfCE4Bje

    • Bevor du die letzte Displayschraube entfernst, achte darauf, dass du das Display und den oberen Gehäuseteil mit deiner einen Hand stabil festhältst. Andernfalls können Komponenten auf den Tisch fallen und potenziell großen Schaden verursachen.

    • Entferne die letzte 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schraube, mit der das Display am oberen Gehäuseteil befestigt ist.

  35. KwBKubWQqkU4HkZm

    • Schiebe den oberen Gehäuseteil leicht in Richtung der Display Einheit und drehe es dann weg von der Vorderseite der Display Einheit.

    • Sobald die beiden Displayscharniere es erlauben, entferne das Display und lege es beiseite.

    Reassembly Hint: My tip is to lay bottom case with the keyboard on the work surface with the rear edge hanging over the front of your work bench. Approach with the screen side of the lid facing the workbench and 90º to it. Lower the screen hinges into place. This makes it much easier to work with and reassemble.

    *

    Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh -

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws or to replace those 2 screws

    Andrew Gordon -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Mitglied seit: 17/10/09

493949 Reputation

17 Kommentare

I have just comletd this process and installed a new screen assembly to my macbook Air. It is now completely unresponsive. When I press the power button nothing happens.

I completed the process exactly as described, I had no troubles and all went very well.

Before I tear it down again I was wondering if there might be some very obvious thing I may be overlooking

Help?

John Mulvaney -

Did you ever figure out the problem, I am having the same issue.

zshad -

You did exactly as the instruction means you might mess up the board. There is about 20 steps you can skip just to change assembly. I will buy your dead mac and take the diodes and resistors from the board.

davidshanlay -

Having performed this repair several times, most of these steps are completely unnecessary. After you take the back off, still disconnect the battery, but you can essentially skip from step 3 to step 31. Just add a note about unplugging the LCD cable, the Camera/Mic cable and the Antenna cables before unscrewing the 6 hinge screws and you are done. Removing everything else is a huge time sink that is not need and adds a ton of complication.

alex -

There are a lot of extra steps not required to access display assembly. It make people think like rocket science and some might screw up their mac.

davidshanlay -

I totally agree

David Lestrange -

You can skip steps 17 - 30. No need to waste your time!

drGEEKsters -

Is it possible to replace a MacBook AIR 13, 2012 from the display module:

Macbook AIR 13, 2010, 2011, 2013, 2014? Do compatibility problems do not arise?

Thank you

phoenixgsv -

yes, I replaced lcd on my air 2013 13" with lcd 2010 13" and it works.

MNgu -

Great guide. Followed the steps as outlined and was able to replace the display. MacBook Air now working as previously did. Finished from disassembly to reassembly in approximately 1 hour 15 minutes. First time working on a MacBook Air.

Hector Martinez -

Guten Anleitung, aber wie schon geschrieben, VIIIIIEEEELLLL zu aufwändig. Es muss nur der hinntere Deckel enfernt werden, Das Batteriekabel (zur Sicherheit) das linke Displaykabel mit dem Bügel (Bügel hochklappen, Stecker waagerecht nach hinten raus). Schwierig fand ich den ganz kleinen Anschluss rechts… bisschen am Kabel ziehen, am Stecker hab ich mit einem Zahnstocher nachgeholfen. Die beiden sehr kleinen Antennenanschlüsse müssen ab und das Kabel vorsichtig aus dem Kanal entfernt werden. Das wars. Jetzt die sechs Schrauben am Display lösen, vorsichtig umklappen, Dispaly abnehmen. 5-10 Minuten Arbeit.

Thorsten Legrand -

Went the “long trail” following all the steps: it worked. The MacBook Air screen is now flawless & it works fine. I wonder now whether I could have skipped the steps noted in comments. If ever again I attempt, I may try the short cut. But: THANKS for the excellent step-by-step. You have my gratitude. Enjoy your life!

Ric Thistlethwaite -

Yep crazy to follow all of those steps you hardly have to do anything like that!

orlando_buckland -

How can you change the display cable? I have green dots on right side of screen where there should be black dots. I pulled the back of the unit, disconnected the connector, cleaned the contacts and it is still doing the same thing. Evidence points to a worn cable but how do you get it out from behind the LCD?

Pete G -

Yeah.. someone REALLY needs to update this guide and remove all the unnecessary steps. This is like a “how to completely replace the logic board” guide. As of March 2020, Here are all the steps you ACTUALLY need: 1-3, 12, 22-24, 28, 31-35. The end.

Nate Johnson -

Too many steps, I agree 1-3, 12. 22-24, 26, 31-35 is all you need.

Anthony Slaughter -

I succeeded by following the advice of all the commenters who said not to remove the logic board. I did steps 1-3, 12, 22-24, 28, 31-35. Worked great.

michael -