MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Trackpad austauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 111
MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Trackpad austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

11

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des Trackpads gezeigt.

  1. ntWnApPFnVyDIwGF

    • Bevor du anfängst, fahre dein MacBook herunter. Schließe das Display und lege dein MacBook mit der Unterseite nach oben auf eine weiche Unterlage.

    • Benutze einen P5 Pentalobe-Schraubendreher, um folgende zehn Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 9 mm Schrauben

    • Acht 2,6 mm Schrauben

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison -

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer -

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m -

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew -

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith -

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov -

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir -

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock -

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner -

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton -

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach -

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev -

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog -

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 -

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement -

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell -

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis -

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love -

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand -

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross -

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent -

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian -

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath -

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi -

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong -

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole -

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt -

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert -

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen -

  2. AuaSrWoUvoATMoyN

    • Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.

    • Entferne das hintere Gehäuse und lege es beiseite.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley -

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel -

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH -

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes -

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc -

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY -

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus -

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson -

  3. 52FEHP115RHrdUk4

    • Fasse die durchsichtige Plastiklasche, die am Akkuanschluss angebracht ist, an und ziehe sie in Richtung des vorderen Rands des Air, um den Akku vom Logic Board zu trennen.

    • Ziehe dabei den Verbinder keinesfalls nach oben!

    @&?! - pulled plastic tab on new battery to line up with logic board pins look to be coming out of male connector? Argh?!

    James Bowkett -

    Can expect anyone from ifixit to get back to me?

    James Bowkett -

    Hi James,

    It may be that one of the pins did not lock in properly into the plastic housing. You can try pushing the corresponding wire into the connector housing to try to lock the pin in.

    If that does not help, please respond to my email. Thanks!

    Arthur Shi -

    When I pulled the plastic tab, it separated from the battery connector. However, I was able to remove the batter connector using a scalpel to separate the batter connector and disconnect the battery from the logic board without any damage.

    Annabell -

    Well, I was trying to detach the battery cable from the logic board and the housing on the logic board that the cable slides into popped off with it. Is there anything I can do to fix this, or am I out one logic board? :-(

    Dale Roe -

    The original battery plastic pull tab broke off when I tried to pull it towards the front of the Mac. How do I get to disconnect the battery connector now?

    shukry.saw08 -

    My connector would not release as shown, using reasonable force, so I unbolted the battery to slide it back, then was able to slide the connector back. Ultimately, it popped up on its own - suggest review of this process. No drama, nothing broken, all good.

    Marc Bracken -

    > und ziehe sie in Richtung des vorderen Rands des Air, um … <

    besser ausgedrückt: ziehe sie waagerecht nach hinten aus dem Stecker ….

    > and drag it towards the front edge of the Air to ... <

    better said: pull it horizontally backwards out of the plug….

    Blatt -

  4. bvRDFINPM4hM5gKF

    • Entferne folgende fünf Torx T5 Schrauben, die den Akku am Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Drei 6,3 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 2,4 mm Schrauben

    When going in reverse, it's easier to do step 3 before 4.

    John Heffernan -

    Screw normal torx T-5

    Mario Verlent -

    I can confirm. When doing the steps in reverse, it is definitely better to do step 3 before step 4! It’s a lot easier.

    Krangh -

    The center screw on my Macbook Air 6,1 is slightly longer than the 6.3 mm screws. John H. is right: when putting back together step 3 is easier and safer to do before step 4. In order of reassembly: Step 5, 3, 4, 2, and 1.

    markjville -

  5. WPwoN1AuY6KSRYsF

    • Wenn du am Akku arbeitest, vermeide es die vier offenliegenden Lithium Polymerzellen anzufassen oder zu drücken.

    • Hebe den Akku an der Kante an, die dem Logic Board am nächsten ist, und entferne ihn aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Wenn du einen neuen Akku eingebaut hast, solltest du ihn nach dem Einbau kalibrieren :

    • Lade ihn auf 100% auf und lasse ihn dann noch mind. weitere 2 Stunden laden. Benutze ihn dann normal, um den Akku zu entladen. Wenn angezeigt wird, dass der Akku zu laden ist, speichere deine Arbeit und lasse deinen Laptop an, bis er sich von selbst ausschaltet. Warte dann mind. 5 Stunden bevor du deinen Akku ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auflädst.

    • Wenn du ein ungewöhnliches Verhalten oder Probleme nach dem Akkuwechsel bemerkst, dann hilft vielleicht ein Zurücksetzen des SMC (System Management Controller) deines MacBooks.

    Two Questions and a Comment:

    1) “Allow the battery to drain overnight” - Should the computer shut down automatically (during the first drain, as well)? If not, what percentage should the battery reach before charging it to 100%?

    2) While the battery is draining, can I use the computer?

    When installing the new battery, I found it much easier to insert the battery connector before screwing in the battery.

    Paul Larkin -

    When reinserting the battery, plug in the battery connector before screwing the battery into place. Some wiggle room is required to reconnect the batter and tweezers will help with the plugging in.

    Andre Clement -

    Check to ensure that all 5 holes in the battery enclosure are drilled through. One of mine wasn’t and needed a little push through before setting the battery in place.

    Also, as noted above, definitely re-connect the cable before screwing in the battery!

    Les Klassen Hamm -

    agree on reconnecting before securing battery.

    David Covington -

    Followed this guide step by step for a successful battery swap thanks iFixit!

    FYI, as someone else pointed out, if you try removing the battery connector after you have installed it for one reason or another the pins pull out of the plastic connector piece (the adhesive does not hold). You have to push the cable back into the plastic connector so the pins are all the way back in.

    Kent O -

    I did all of that BUT while I tried to pull the plastic battery connector in step 3 , instead the whole connector got out of the board and I can’t insterted back, I don’t know what to do now, any advice ?

    Gorashi -

    Kommentare 1 und 2: sehr wichtig. Danke Paul Larkin und Andre Clement!

    Comments 1 and 2: very important. Thank you Paul Larkin and Andre Clement!

    Blatt -

    Really useful and simple instructions, done in 10 minutes. Many thanks! H

    Hugh Blackman -

    Merci pour ce super tuto.

    L’opération c’est déroulée avec succès.

    Patrick Ponsard -

    There is a plastic film across the new battery that wasn’t on the old one, should I remove the plastic film on the new battery?

    William Campbell -

    Actual removal and installation was super easy. Just be sure to have a small container to put the screws in!

    Going through calibration right now

    David Springett -

    Thanks ifixit. Clear instructions. Quick and easy installation. Prompt delivery too.

    micks04 -

  6. LqMIGVkS3j6Fpihd
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    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Anschluss des Flachbandkabels zum Trackpad mit der Spudgerspitze oder deinem Fingernagel hoch.

    • Achte darauf, dass du nur am scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel hebelst, nicht am Anschluss selbst.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zum Trackpad gerade aus seinem Anschluss in Richtung der hinteren Kante des Air.

    If you are newer at repair, use the new part to practice flipping the retaining clips. This can help before moving on to the real one.

    ryan comisky -

  7. GBR2illFpN4apQPt
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    • Hebe das Flachbandkabel zur Tastatur mit einer Hand an und klappe gleichzeitig den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Anschluss des Tastaturkabels mit der Spudgerspitze oder deinem Fingernagel hoch.

    • Achte darauf, dass du nur am scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel hebelst, nicht am Anschluss selbst.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Tastatur gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus in Richtung der Vorderkante des Air.

    the trickiest step on re-assembly is reinserting this back-folded cable into the socket and then making sure the retaining flap (now hidden) is firmly down again. You can tell if it is still up (and so the cable loose) if the cable does not feel flat when you run your finger lightly over it.

    Jon May -

    If it will not “plug” back in do you have to buy a whole new keyboard? I have pretty good eyes and magnifying glass and headlamp and my keyboard just won’t work anymore. This thing must have detached when I was putting in a battery. I was happy to see the thing here but disappointed because now my keyboard will not work because I can’t tell what’s wrong. It seems plugged in but won’t work! Does that mean I have to buy a new keyboard? I’d really like to know.

    Jo Ellen Harvey -

    A magnifying glass and bright light can help immensely in this step. The retaining flap is tiny and difficult to see while the cable is still connected.

    Dick Young -

    Dick, do you have a suggestion for a magnifying glass/light set up? I used a magnifying glass and a small flashlight. But found that the job required two hands so it was hard to see while I was trying to do it. I thought about ordering the magnifying glasses sold here but don’t know how well they work.

    Joanna Bridges -

    A head lamp has become an indispensable tool in my laptop repair business.

    Macrepair SF -

    This is where I had a problem. Part of the plastic retaining flap broke off. Now my trackpad, which had a problem, is working but about half the keys on my keyboard, which was working before, aren’t. I don’t know whether its because I damaged this cable connections in the attempts to seat it earlier or whether not having the pressure on one half of it is causing the connection to not be made with a number of the keys. Since my keyboard had worked with my old trackpad and the socket clamp isn’t broken on that, I was thinking of attaching it to see if clamping the cable down properly will solve the problem. But of course then my trackpad wouldn’t work anymore. But it might tell me that I have to replace the trackpad again with one with a working clamp (retaining flap?) to make the keyboard work. And then I am back with dealing with troublesome trackpad screws. I can use an external keyboard but since I wanted to be able to use this laptop for traveling, that’s not my preference. Any thoughts???

    Joanna Bridges -

    Use a small strip of electricians tape on one end fold it over to make a pull tab, then place on the ribbon cable so you can pull the ribbon into the slot.

    Most of the time the latch clip can be refitted in if you haven’t broken it in half. The system won’t work correctly without it!

    Dan -

    Hi Dan, I did, unfortunately, break the latch clip. Only about a third of it is left- the other 2./3rds broke off completely. From what you said that is the most likely explanation why certain keys ( 3,e,d,c,6,y,h,n,space bar and /) don’t work. I had wondered if I might have damaged the cable connections when I was trying to get them into the slot earlier (not realizing there was a retaining clip down.) If it is the clip, then the answer seems to be to replace the trackpad again. Which would be no problem if the screws weren’t so bad. But am worried that I will never be able to get all the screws out and new ones screwed in properly. But maybe worth a try. Any suggestions?

    Joanna Bridges -

    Have no magic here…

    Somehow you need to replace the latch. Getting a replacement part is one way, the other is looking for a broken system to steal the latch off of carefully removing it without breaking it, then popping it on your systems connector.

    Dan -

    Dan, that’s a great idea. I have my old Apple trackpad and the piece is still intact on that. It hadn't occurred to me that I might be able to take it off and put it on the cable on the new trackpad. Thanks for the suggestion!

    Joanna Bridges -

    I do not think there is a latch to be opened.

    Jean Peuplu -

    Both the logic board and the trackpad connectors use a compression bar (latch). When you have it in the open state its ZIF but to secure the cable you need to close the latch to hold the cable and make the needed electrical connection Trackpad Flex Connector

    Dan -

    Yes there is a latch towards the back of the connector, opposite of where the cable enters the connector. It is very thin. Opens from back to front.

    Jean Peuplu -

    There are two versions of the connector depending on the trackpad and logic board. Yours should be like the one I posted.

    The other one is more like this one Keyboard Connector

    Dan -

    A video that shows how this thing unplugs and plugs back in would be helpful. It just looks like a piece of black tape. I had no idea there were tiny prongs that have to be plugged in. Now my keyboard doesn’t work.

    I was looking at these instructions because while I was following your battery replacement instructions I accidentally unplugged this thing.

    Your instructions on how to plug it back in font show anything at all.

    Jo Ellen Harvey -

  8. 6LNVToESvCW2kVXS

    • Entferne folgende zwölf Kreuzschlitzschrauben:

    • Sechs 1,6 mm Schrauben, welche das Trackpad am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Sechs 1,6 mm Schrauben, welche die Halterungen des Trackpads am Trackpad befestigen.

    I have a Macbook Air early 2013 A1466 Model. These are not PH00 screws in my case— like not even close. i am going by a jewelry store. Maybe, it is the case for the US version. Not working for this German model. Just FYI. Or perhaps you know as you are leaving the ph00 out of the description here and are just referencing the 1,6 mm.

    Ronny NoneOfYourBusinessGoogle -

    Actually I went and got a phillips ph00 1,6 now specifically: screws up the screws. Doesnt work as many are saying on youtube. But whats the right screwdriver then??

    Ronny NoneOfYourBusinessGoogle -

    So how did you do it after all?

    Vrag Naroda -

    Same problem, can't find a tiny enough screwdriver

    Vrag Naroda -

    A Phillips triple zero PH000 is the bit that worked for me for my Early 2014 MacBook Air trackpad brackets

    bob -

    I also had problems with the screws. Started out using the PH00 screwdriver and the screwheads were being stripped. Switched to the PH 000 as suggested by the commenter above and it still stripped screws (ones that hadn’t been touched before). Finally gave up, put the screws I had managed to get out back in (surprisingly they screwed back in without much difficulty), and put everything back together without being able to replace the trackpad. Luckily the computer worked but still having to use an external mouse to click. It seems that the screws for the trackpad are very soft and the heads strip easily. Not sure what to do at this point.

    Joanna Bridges -

    Apple uses a thread sealer which makes it hard! I first try a little bit of some acetone around the base of the screw dripping a little down letting spork and adding a bit more as it evaporates. When that fails I reach for my small nozzle heat gun as I want to focus the heat just to the head of the screw using foil to protect the rest of the area.

    Dan -

    I had an easy time with the JIS000 screwdriver bit I have so if you have one, give it a try.

    Lareina The Math Mama -

    What is a JIS000 screwdriver and where do I find one?

    Joanna Bridges -

    JIS is japan Industrial Standard which sets a standard for both screws and the tools needed for them.

    Here’s one set iFixit - JIS Driver Set

    Dan -

    screw JM-CRV J000

    Mario Verlent -

    The brackets on mind had stripped screws a d are now broken. Anyone know where I can buy those brackets?

    Trenten Stanley -

    I went ahead and ordered the iFixit - JIS Driver Set on Lareina’s recommend here, and only 6 of the 12 screws came up with it. It started to strip the upper six. They are all, after all, 1.6 mm, and the smallest driver on the JIS driver set (not recommended BTW) is 2.0mm) so that was useless advice. so back to square one, weeks waiting to get this thing installed!

    kate Taverna -

    In my case, I had just that one last screw that was stripped - and what I was able to do to remove it was to wriggle the bracket to get the screw to move free - which then made it much easier to unscrew it with a PH000 bit even though it was stripped. I was able to duplicate the process 2 more times (so 3 total) working on 2x MacBook Airs.

    I haven’t tried anything else - where I was just about to break out my Dremel to turn the screw into a chisel tip (high risk given all the metal dust flying about) or wear out the edges to make it easier for me to use side cutters or pliers to grasp the edges and remove it…

    Jon T. -

    When reassembling, I had to gently lift the replacement track pad up with the spudger on the keyboard side to get the bracket screws to align with the trackpad.

    Atticus Rotoli -

  9. fDUZiXPWJUQFYVYF

    • Entferne die rechte und die linke Halterung des Trackpads vom oberen Gehäuse.

    on re-assembly, having the front open slightly so that I could put some pressure on the other side of the trackpad behind the holes for the screws made it easier to reseat them

    Jon May -

    During reassembly keep in mind the bottom half of the trackpad is the half with motion. This top edge is to be secured tightly to the top brackets. Previous tip was helpful regarding rear pressure during reassembly.

    airshack -

  10. AXdQ3FFbyi4NkrCr

    • Überprüfe während des Zusammenbaus die Klickfunktion des Trackpads.

    • Die 1,4 mm Torx T5 Stellschraube nahe der Vorderkante des Gehäuses muss korrekt justiert werden.

    • Ziehe beim Zusammenbau diese Schraube nicht zu stark an, sonst hört die Taste ab einem bestimmten Punkt auf zu klicken. Justiere die Schraube so, bis die bewegliche Seite des Trackpads minimales Spiel hat.

    • Es ist nicht notwendig, diese Schraube zu entfernen, um das Trackpad zu entfernen.

    Help I stripped it can't get the screw out

    Daniel West -

    And it didn't go in easy either

    Daniel West -

    I needed to tighten the set screw a bit farther than I expected to get the click action of the replacement trackpad to feel right. With everything reassembled, except for the final outer bottom cover, I made slight adjustments to the set screw and then flipped over the macbook to test the actual click pressure. Did this a few times to get it set up properly and then secured the bottom cover to complete the job.

    Atticus Rotoli -

    Step 10 shoud´nt be on this guide, it´s misleading, not necesary at all to change the trackpad nor to clean it; first 2 comments on this step, "i screw the screw" (pun very intended)

    Silicon Informática -

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    ArZuGBjaoalQvpTN
    P6QGBqDDlYqRQ26I

    • Hebe die Kante des Trackpads nahe der Tastatur vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus ihrer Vertiefung im oberen Gehäuse, indem du sie aus den Halterungen, die am oberen Gehäuse angebracht sind, weghebst.

    • Entferne das Trackpad vom oberen Gehäuse.

    if you open the front case slightly at this point a little pressure on the trackpad helps to lift it - but just a millimetre or two.

    Jon May -

    I suggest leaving the brackets attached to the trackpad until after removing the trackpad from its recess, and then attaching the brackets to the new trackpad before replacing it in the recess. Otherwise, the loose trackpad will drop onto the screen.

    Dick Young -

    As usual, the instruction video was absolutely great. No trouble at all (well, except I lost one of the pentapoint screws, but not your fault). Could not have been better!

    jerrymack -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

685541 Reputation

5 Kommentare

Great write up. Where can I find the keyboard ribbon cable? (the wide one that doesn't make any 90s. I tore mine with metal tweezers. Can't find the wide cable anywhere.

ahaffke -

shhhhh, it's called ie bAe eYe

emaginechild -

even a 65 year old can do it! (with magnifying glasses) Thank! Fixed the dirty, sticking trackpad!

Scott Salling -

Step 10 should not be done! This is a pure adjustment screw for the clickpoint. Only readjust there, in case clicking does not feel okay after a change of the trackpad. Usually no adjusment is necessary. The trackpad comes out easily after Step 8

Schritt 10 ist falsch! Diese Schraube dient lediglich der Justage des Druckpunkts des Klicks. Sie muss nur verstellt werden, falls der Klick nach dem Wechsel des Trackpads nicht mehr ok ist. Das Trackpad lässt sich aber bereits nach Schritt 8 problemlos entnehmen.

Marc Malkwitz -

I have replaced the trackpad but it now gives erratic behavior. Usually after booting/opening the lid it works fine for a couple of minutes. Then it stops moving or jumps around the screen after a freeze. Reset SMC does not help unfortunately. Anybody any ideas?

Martijn Verhoeven -