MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen

This did not work when running High Sierra.

Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.

I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.

Finished the repair last week. Some key comments that helped me:

- Step 12, Robert

- Step 13, MikeG1

- Step 13, Rick Jaffe (take a photo when disassembling)

Also added some own comments on Steps 15, 18, 22

To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.

My 3rd and 4th clips released simultaneously with clip 1 and 2.

Therefore I was looking to do something which had already been accomplished.

yeah be sure not to bend those clips by the display bottom. You pull towards yourself to get it off

I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.

This step really through me through a loop. My last two MBP were a 2011 and 2013 and on those the bottom just lifted off when you removed the screws. The clips and this sliding lock design added in the 2017 model was frustrating the first time. I was following a youtube video first and he did not explain the sliding part at all. I should have come here first, this guide explains it pretty well. The second time I opened my 2017, I kept an “opening pick” between the bottom panel and the body on each side, and used my two smallest screwdrivers as levers in both “front” corner screw holes. Used the same method without the picks to put it back together at the end. Wayyy easier that trying to grip the panel or laptop body. Just make sure the screwdrivers/pins that you’re using as levers are small enough to be loose in the screw holes and have room to move

I used the green prying tool in the air gap at the rear to nudge the bottom forward.

That is far easier and more reliable.

David. I agree. I've found the blue iFixit prying tool most helpful. I place it with the curve of the tool around the hinge and move the bottom case towards the front to release it from the slide-in clips. I consider myself to have pretty good grip strength but I have had some bottom cases that just wouldn't budge until I used this method. Scott The Mac Doctor 

once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.

The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.

The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.

There is no replacement for this cable in the new battery, is this normal?

If this ribbon comes off on both ends, how do you re-attach

the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.

Same problem with the tape coming loose and the cable not coming out. Go further back along the cable and pull gently on the cable with your fingers and the connector will come out easily.

The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.

I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!

Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.

When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

On disassembly note the position of the connector before you lift. It has two gold-plated connections on the underside. On reassembly these need to make contact with the matching battery board connectors. Bending the connector out of the way deformed it a bit, and on reassembly I could see that the connectors didn't align well with the board's connectors. I needed to adjust the battery board position to the left a bit by loosening the 3.1 mm screws in step 23. Possibly this could be the reason why some people report that new battery is not detected.

When re-assembling do NOT tighten the screws of the trackpad to much. Otherwise the haptic feedback will be very less afterwards.

This step needs a warning on it. I somehow angled my spudger too low and it pried the connecting port loose which eventually broke off the logic board. It ruined my computer. BEWARE.

Be very careful while removing it. May be bend and see what is coming off. If need be insert the spudger side ways and remove the connector gently

I used two spudgers, one on either side, to evenly lever the ribbon cable out of the slot.

If you don’t have the iOpener, use a dry heating pad (with rice inside) and heat for 2 minutes in the microwave.

there's nothing in this manual about how to secure the cable while reassembling. I used insulating tape.

The air drier worked well for me, just need to be patient and and maintain a slight pull force to know when it's ready.

I did not need to secure the cable, the glue on it was still effective, apparently.

Must say that you can avoid all these next steps and go to battery removal IF you are patient. Using 3-4 of iFixit's nylon spudgers, you can simply pry upwards on the cells and get them loose. The glue strips will start to loosen and then you can use one spudgers flat edge to cut the remaining adhesive. Continuing to apply upwards pressure throughout and working slowly, it can be done. I have done half-a-dozen this way. Was just too afraid to risk the adhesive remover getting where it shouldn't. Once the battery is completely out, you can pull or scape off the remaining glue-strips. My last one came off so clean, there was only about 1% residue.

Well… I lost one :) Anyone know where I could get a spare round one?

Is it possible to leave the trackpad installed if you don’t use the adhesive remover technique? I always use a bent piece of heavy plastic to separate the battery from the laptop on these newer machines. I can’t stand the thought of putting solvent in a client’s Mac!

I tried (“Operation”!) to remove this water damage indicator sticker elegantly. Ended up hacking it apart. I think I’ll live.

A ce moment là, il faudrait déconnecter la nappe de données de la carte de la batterie et la mettre de côté

Wenn das Trackpad ausgebaut ist, kann man den alten Akku auch ohne Klebstoffentferner relativ gut auslösen.

Au moment de ma commande le kit complet avec le dissolvant ifixit n’était pas disponible, mais seulement la batterie sans accéssoires, j’ai utilisé quelques gouttes d’acétone à la place. la battéerie originale s’est décollée sans difficulté à l’aide d’une carte de credit

Can I use isopropyl or ethanol instead?

Petite astuce après une réparation fructueuse : pour simplifier cette étape, munissez vous d’un dissolvant fourni ou non, prenez les élastiques de masques chirurgicaux et imbibez le avec le dissolvant. À l’aide de cures-dents, l’insérer entre le châssis et la batterie puis faire un mouvement d’aller et retour tout en avançant au fur et à mesure que la batterie se décolle. Cette astuce m’a fait gagné beaucoup de temps et elle permet de ne pas endommager la batterie lorsque de son extraction. Plus sur, plus rapide et plus facile !

A little tip after a successful repair: to simplify this step, take the surgical mask elastic bands and soak them with solvent. Using toothpicks, insert it between the frame and the battery then move back and forth while moving forward as the battery comes off. This trick saved me a lot of time and avoids damaging the battery when removing it. Safer, quicker and easier.

This was the hardest step for me. You just have to keep at it and add a little more adhesive remover if needed, it will eventually come up.

Agreed, hardest step. “Several drop” was not enough, I had to add more twice, so take your time.

Just like on the picture, the corner close to the track pad seem to be a weak point, strat pushing the corner of the plastic card there.

I used a thin plastic kitchen spatula which was easier to slide in under the battery, and cover a wider area than the plastic card.

They are RIGHT, let the acetone do the work. It did need more than a few drops, but not much more. Wait 3 min, apply again. Wait 3 min again. Then take the card and aim the point of the card toward the middle of the adhesive. Wiggle wiggle wiggle moderate pressure. It will penetrate the first strip and then work it left and right. Repeat for the next two strips.

I don't see how starting from the side is even possible, it's too steep and the card is not flexible enough.

I started from the top. To do so, I had to lift the battery control card (step 24) enough to be able to put the power connector (step 15) back below it. That way I could slide the card all the way.

Because of the way the tutorial describe it, I was conservative on the quantity of remover. That may be why this step was not easy.

I had a non-ifixit battery replacement fail due to battery wiring (flat coated copper) touching the sharp edge of the case aluminum. Eventually vibration caused the insulation to wear off and short the middle cell to the case. Failure after a couple weeks.

Tuto au top.

J’ai remplacé la batterie de mon MacBook Pro en suivant à la lettre ce Tuto.

Un grand merci.