MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Mitte 2009, Unibody) zweite Festplatte einbauen

Schritt 1

Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:
Sieben 3 mm Schrauben.
Drei 13,5 mm Schrauben.

Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

mastover -

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

adlerpe -

That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

joyitsjennie - 12/08/15

Great idea and one I use often

Thomas Overstreet - 30/08/15

Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

Laura Sharkey - 14/08/16

I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

valentinedhdh - 07/04/15

I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

Cary B - 09/07/22

Schritt 2

Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.

In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

Mike - 12/09/17

Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

Am I allowed to cry?

Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

kath myers - 26/02/22

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

That was a brilliant read.

Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

:)

Cary B -

Schritt 3

Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.
Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

Zitat von gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

MrKane -

How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

Horace Chung -

yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

maccentric -

This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

Jeff Diamond - 16/04/17

Schritt 4

Heble behutsam den Stecker am Kabel des rechten Lautsprechers/Subwoofers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers gerade vom Logic Board hoch. Achte darauf, dass du nicht den Anschluss hochhebelst. Ziehe den Stecker zum optischen Laufwerk hin.
Heble unter den Kabeln.

Step 4 is correct as stated (pull up, not slide out). You'll definitely see this when you put it back in place, pushing down in socket not sliding in. Just be careful and use spudger (gently!) underneath wires as shown.

jgcolt -

What is the best way to solder this back onto the board? I did it once 5 years ago, but that was my first and only time soldering. I know there is a soldering guide, and I have read it. Could someone tell me please the best way to reconnect the right speaker/subwoofer cable to the board, referencing the soldering guide?

Leslie L. Gordon -

Schritt 5

Du musst den kleinen durchsichtigen Kunstoffkabelhalter (rot markiert), der am Logic Board festgeklebt ist, aus dem Weg schieben, bevor du das Kamerakabel abtrennen kannst. Achte darauf, dass du keine Bauteile von der Platine brichst, während du es vom Kamerakabelstecker abschiebst.
Ziehe den Kamerakabelstecker zum optischen Laufwerk hin und trenne ihn vom Logic Board ab.
Dieser Anschluss ist aus Metall und kann leicht verbogen werden. Du musst den Stecker erst im Anschluss auf dem Logic Board ausrichten, bevor du die beiden Teile zusammenstecken kannst.

When you put the Mac back together after this entire procedure, it's virtually impossible to get the camera cable reconnected because there is a small piece of plastic glued to the board to keep it from coming unplugged. An Apple store tech explained the piece of plastic and said it won't break anything if I pry it off the board. I did and then the cable connected easily.

karenz -

The retainer for the camera cable may be black as well as clear. It is much easier to remove and reinstall the retainer if the DVD drive cable is removed first.

MikeG -

Schritt 6

Heble den Stecker des optischen Laufwerks mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers gerade vom Logic Board hoch.

Schritt 7

Heble den Stecker der Festplatte mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers gerade vom Logic Board hoch.

Schritt 8

Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen der Subwoofer am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist. Die rechte ist 5 mm lang, die linke 3,9 mm.
Die längere der beiden Schrauben ist rechts.

For step 8, I found I had to use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the two screws. I'm not sure if mine were just over-tightened, but I couldn't get the two screws off with a cheapo Radioshack #00 screwdriver or a nice Wiha one for the life of me without coming close to stripping them. Tried the #0 and they popped right out. Hope this helps.

Aaron B -

Schritt 9

Der Subwoofer ist immer noch am rechten Lautsprecher angeschlossen, versuche noch nicht ihn ganz zu entfernen.
Hebe den Subwoofer vom optischen Laufwerk und lege ihn über den Computer ab.

Schritt 10

Entferne die beiden 8,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Kamerakabelhalterung am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
Die rechte Schraube bleibt vielleicht im Kamerakabel hängen.
Hebe die Kamerakabelhalterung aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.

There's another type of bridge, black, with an extra piece of metal to hold the cable. You don't have to remove this bridge to unmount the optical drive.

Martin -

Schritt 11

Entferne die drei 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen das optische Laufwerk am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
Hebe das optische Laufwerk an der rechten Kante hoch und ziehe es aus dem Computer heraus.

Schritt 12

Ziehe das Kabel zum optischen Laufwerk gerade vom optischen Laufwerk weg und entferne es.
Dieser Stecker sitzt besonders tief, achte darauf, dass du ihn in seiner Mitte vom optischen Laufwerk weg ziehst.
Wenn sich eine CD oder etwas anderes im optischen Laufwerk verklemmt hat, dann hilft dir unsere Reparaturanleitung für das optische Laufwerk.

Schritt 13

Entferne die beiden schwarzen Kreuzschlitzschrauben #0, mit denen die die kleine Metallhalterung befestigt ist. Übertrage diese Halterung auf dein neues optisches Laufwerk oder den Festplatteneinschub.

Schritt 14

Entferne den Abstandhalter aus Plastik aus dem Gehäuse des DVD-Laufwerks, indem du auf einer der beiden Seiten die Plastiklasche eindrückst und den Abstandhalter nach oben herausnimmst.

is it 9,5mm or 12,7mm for the caddy? My stuff macbook pro mid 2010, need advice what size is compatible. Thank you

Adi Purba - 13/04/21

All Macbooks use 9.5mm Optical Drive Caddy, also, If you’re wondering as well, the Optical Drive runs at SATA II speeds just like with the main hard drive area, so if you’re using a SSD, then it’s going to run at a slightly slower speed.

- PS5iscool - - 22/05/21

Schritt 15

Achte darauf, dass die Anschlüsse für die Festplatte nach unten zeigen, bevor du die Festplatte in das Gehäuse setzt.
Setze die Festplatte vorsichtig in den dafür vorgesehenen Platz in dem Gehäuse.
Halte das Gehäuse mit einer Hand fest und drücke die Festplatte mit der anderen Hand in die Anschlüsse im Gehäuse.

Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

Carl -

This is an extremely late response to an old comment, but… whatev’s. My 2011 MacBook Pro had that issue: the main (HDD bay) SATA operated at 6Gbit, and while the optical bay said it was 6Gbit, the “Negotiated Link Speed” was like 1.5Gbits regardless of what you put in it (I can understand 1.5Gbits for an optical drive, but not for an SSD). Some of the early 2012 models did the same thing, from what I understand, but that was corrected pretty early on; both my 13” and 15” 2012’s run at 6Gb/s on both SATA busses.

AJH -

It’s not wise to swop the optidrive for an HD as there is no physical protection. The caddy is only intended for an SSD.

Ben Ormerod - 28/08/20

Schritt 16

Wenn die Festplatte im Gehäuse sitzt, halte sie mit einer Hand fest und setze den Abstandhalter wieder in das Gehäuse ein.

Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

Bart -

Schritt 17

Verwende zwei #1 Kreuzschlitzschrauben, um die Festplatte im Gehäuse zu sichern.

Where are these screws coming from? Were they part of the original optical drive?

Bradley DeHerrera - 23/09/20

The new enclosure should include these two Phillips screws.

Sam Omiotek - 11/01/21

Can someone show the step of removal process of hdd/SSD placed in the caddy? I am unable to revert this process. Do we have to apply back greater force to remove back the hard drive/SSD from the caddy?

Tarun Kumar Verma -

Gads, I wish they made a caddy where the optical drive was removable without having to remove the entire caddy. That is a major peeve of mine. Like… just mount it the other way! I don’t want to have to go through this entire process every time I upgrade the secondary drive.

AJH -

These screws seems to be located in different places on different enclosures. I had serious trouble getting the SSD that the previous owner of this MacBook installed out of the enclosure until I realized the screws holding the SSD in place were on the side and not on the bottom. In case anyone else has the same issue!

nessie1001 -

Schritt 18

Befestige die Öse vom DVD-Laufwerk mit zwei #0 Kreuzschlitzschrauben am neuen Gehäuse.
Verbinde alle Kabel, die du vom originalen DVD-Laufwerk entfernt hattest, mit dem neuen Gehäuse.

Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

claude -

Mate,

My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10

I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.

My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.

I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.

So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.

I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.

Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8

You can't go back, apparently.

So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.

I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.

Rory - 02/11/14

I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.

roger hall - 26/07/14

I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).

First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.

Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.

I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.

But It was recognized by Disk Utility.

What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.

So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.

Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...

Wish you all luck :)

rybafly - 13/06/15

My installation went great thanks to the guide. I did notice a small thing that might make a good tip, and that is to inspect all the visible screws. I saw one that was slightly raised, and when I poked around with the spudger, I found 2 more that had worked themselves out a bit. Its probably something super rare but at the age of these things, it wouldn't hurt to check.

Tineyi Chapisa -

Schritt 19

Wirf das alte Laufwerk nicht weg! Es kann mit Hilfe unseres SATA-Laufwerk USB Kabel immer noch verwendet werden.
Richte den SATA Anschluss des Kabels mit dem Anschluss am Laufwerk aus und stecke ihn ein.
Stecke den USB Anschluss in deinen Laptop und das Laufwerk ist bereit zur Verwendung.

There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.

Joseph Landry - 13/02/17

Maybe that explain the eject button mechanism maybe….