Einleitung

Tausche mit Hilfe dieser Anleitung die komplette Displayeinheit aus.

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    • Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:

    • Sieben 3 mm Schrauben.

    • Drei 13,5 mm Schrauben.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

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    • Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

  3. B1SUXfcr5fruMavs
    • Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.

    • Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Zitat von gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • Heble den Stecker des Subwoofers/rechten Lautsprechers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board hoch.

    • Heble unter den Kabeln.

    Mine had a small piece of insulating material on top of the connector. By removing that first, I could then pry up the connector with less stress on the cable.

    istlota -

    Great tip! Thanks.

    juliet -

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    • Ziehe das Ende des Kamerakabels gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus .

    • Achte darauf, dass du den Stecker parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards zum optischen Laufwerk hin ziehst und nicht senkrecht vom Anschluss hoch.

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    • Fädle das Kamerakabel aus seinem Kanal im optischen Laufwerk heraus.

    for easy dismantle, just remove 2 screw of subwoofer

    Mohamad Faizal Sharudin -

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    • Entferne folgende Schrauben:

    • Zwei 10 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    • Eine 3,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Ziehe die Kamerakabelhalterung unter dem Subwoofer vor und entferne sie vom Computer.

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    • Fasse die Plastikzuglasche an der Verriegelung des Displaydatenkabels und kippe sie nach oben über den Stecker in Richtung der Seite am Computer mit der Gleichstromversorgung (DC-in).

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    • Achte darauf, dass du den Stecker direkt vom Anschluss weg und nicht senkrecht nach oben ziehst.

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    • Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen der Halter des Displaydatenkabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 5,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Hebe den Halter des Displaydatenkabels aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

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    • Entferne, falls vorhanden, den kleinen Klebeschaumstreifen von den Displayschrauben nahe am Displaydatenkabel.

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    • Entferne die beiden äußeren 6,5 mm Torx T8 Schrauben, mit denen die beiden Displayhalterungen am oberen Gehäuse befestigt sind. (Also insgesamt vier Schrauben)

    You may have to lift/remove a foam tape on the left side as well

    Sebastien CHAPUIS -

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    • Öffne das MacBook Pro so, dass das Display rechtwinklig zum oberen Gehäuse steht.

    • Stelle das geöffnete Gerät wie gezeigt auf den Tisch.

    • Halte Display und oberes Gehäuse mit der linken Hand zusammen. Drehe dann die verbliebene Torx T8 Schraube aus der oberen Displayhalterung heraus.

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    • Achte darauf, das Display und das obere Gehäuse weiterhin mit der Hand zusammenzuhalten. Wenn du das nicht tust, kann das Display/obere Gehäuseteil herunterfallen und unter Umständen kann jede Komponente beschädigt werden.

    • Drehe die letzte verbliebene T8 Torx Schraube, die das Display noch am oberen Gehäuse befestigt, heraus.

    When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!

    Save yourself some time and don't drop it!

    rowdyferret -

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    • Fasse das obere Gehäuseteil mit der rechten Hand und drehe es leicht in Richtung Oberkante des Displays. Dadurch löst sich die obere Displayhalterung von der Kante des oberen Gehäuses.

    • Drehe das Display leicht vom oberen Gehäuse weg.

    Make sure you make a 90 degree angle between the keyboard and the display before taking out the screws. If you have less than a 90, you will never get it apart due to the upper display bracket shape. It has to be at the right angle or it won't come out.

    mastover -

    I place it over keyboard side down hanging over a table. This way I know it's at 90 degrees and it also makes it easier to take it off.

    Nick -

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    • Hebe das Display hoch und vom oberen Gehäuse weg, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Halterungen oder Kabel verfangen.

    As mentioned in the previous step, place it keyboard side down with the edge hanging over a table. This way it's at 90 degrees and it makes it easier to align and get the screws in.

    Josh -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

5 Kommentare

Awesome guide!! Thank you so much for walking me through this. It was surprisingly easy. Only took me about 30 min to do. Best Buy Canada quoted me $900 to do this repair. Total cost of tools from iFixit and parts from eBay... $280 :) THANK YOU IFIXIT!!!!!

spenczoid -

Thanks for the guide, it was spot on. I dropped my beloved MacBook Pro and it cracked the display. Following the guide was a snap even for my old eyes, the ability to make the pictures full screen is great.

jackpollard -

I found a used complete display unit for sale on ebay. Delivered 50$ and half an hour of work and am up and have a lovely MBP 13 inch mid 2010. Many thanks for the useful and detailed guide.

keithp198 -

Had the standard problem with a loose screen on a MacBook Pro 13in 2010. Followed the guide which is very clear and got to the screws which I could then tighten. Reassembled and on booting could hear the fan but no display aside from a few flashes. Rechecked the screen data cable connection which was slightly mis-aligned. corrected it and it worked fine. That connection is very sensitive!

Saved me $900 quoted by the Macstore - 90 mins work on my own and a few grey hairs. A glass of red wine helps.

Norbert -

Just followed the steps and I successfully reinstalled a new screen/lid assembly. The only problem being was step 4. When gently (underline gently) removed the audio cable, all of the pins fractured and remained in the board so now my onboard audio is highly limited. I have to ask why was that step necessary as the removal/reinstall would have been completely possible without step 4. Greg

gdmenginc -