Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie der Subwoofer und der rechte Lautsprecher im MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Mitte 2010, Unibody) ausgetauscht wird.

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    • Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:

    • Sieben 3 mm Schrauben.

    • Drei 13,5 mm Schrauben.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

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    • Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

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    • Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.

    • Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Zitat von gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • Wir empfehlen als Vorsichtsmaßnahme den Verbinder des Subwoofers vom Logic Board zu lösen, um jegliche elektrischen Entladungen zu vermeiden. Dieser Schritt ist nicht zwingend.

    • Eventuell befindet sich eine weiche Abdeckung über dem Verbinder, die du dann entfernen musst. Ziehe dann vorsichtig den Verbinder aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    It is not necessary to remove the camera cable connector (step 5) or the camera cable connector (step 10). Simply push the camera cable gently aside to remove one of the three screws securing the optical drive (step 11). Gently wiggle the optical drive from under the camera cable connector and go to step 12. Less chance of ruining your motherboard!

    tomhart -

    Absolutely. Leave it alone, you don’t need to run the risks of removing this cable, I did the replacement fine without it

    Steven Taylor -

    It does indeed come out of the connector, but the picture makes it hard to see how; the connector it goes into sits on top of the board—however, I, too, ripped mine off the board trying to remove it; I only got it out of the clip after I tore it off. SIMPLY DONT; it's unnecessary. I plan to solder it back if one of my Robotics club friends lets me borrow a soldering iron.

    Rachel -

    Alors je déconseille très fortement de toucher ce connecteur, il est extrêmement fragile. De plus, cela n’a pas d’incidence sur la suite des opérations

    Laskoni -

    The author needs to go back through this guide and correct lots of order mistakes. The fan was removed in steps 3-5 yet it’s still being shown installed in steps 19-22.

    plink53 -

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    • Du musst einen kleinen durchsichtigen Plastikkabelhalter (im Bild rot markiert), der am Logic Board festgeklebt ist, aus dem Weg schieben, bevor du das Kamerakabel lösen kannst. Passe dabei auf, dass du keine Bauteile beschädigst.

    • Ziehe den Verbinder des Kamerakabels in Richtung des optischen Laufwerks, um es vom Logic Board zu lösen.

    • Dieser Sockel ist aus Metall und kann leicht verbogen werden. Passe auf, dass du den Verbinder gerade im Sockel ausrichtest, wenn du die beiden Teile zusammenfügst.

    I just completed this replacement and there is no need to do this step, you can work around this cable pretty easily. Obviously you need to be careful "dancing" around it. But it's perfectly feasible and you don't risk to break stuff disconnecting it.

    Massimo C -

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    • Ziehe den Verbinder des optischen Laufwerks mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers senkrecht aus seinem Sockel.

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    • Ziehe den Verbinder der Festplatte mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers senkrecht aus seinem Sockel.

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    • Der Subwoofer ist mit Kreuzschlitzschrauben am oberen Gehäuse befestigt. Drehe folgende Schrauben heraus:

    • Eine 3,8 mm

    • Eine 5 mm

    On my computer, the 3.8 mm screw was near the midpoint of the subwoofer (left-to-right in the photo) and near the bottom. The 5 mm screw was top right of the subwoofer.

    BobG -

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    • Der Subwoofer ist immer noch mit dem rechten Lautsprecher verbunden, entferne ihn deswegen noch nicht ganz.

    • Hebe den Subwoofer vom optischen Laufwerk weg, und lege ihn neben den Computer.

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    • Entferne die beiden 10 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Halterung für das Kamerakabel am oberen Gehäuse festhalten.

    • Die Schraube ganz links kann unter Umständen im Kamerakabel stecken bleiben.

    • Hebe die Halterung für das Kamerakabel aus dem Gehäuse.

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    • Entferne die drei 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die das optische Laufwerk am Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Hebe das optische Laufwerk an der rechten Kante hoch und ziehe es aus dem Computer.

    Install 2 outside screws first and then single inside screw to allow wiggle room to get outside screws in. Do not tighten screws until all are started.

    JASON CULP -

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    • Ziehe das kleine Stückchen von schwarzem Klebeband vom rechten Lautsprecherkabel zurück.

    • Sei vorsichtig, da sich direkt unter diesem Stückchen Klebeband das Flachbandkabel zum Einschaltknopf befindet.

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    • Heble den rechten Lautsprecher mit der Spudgerspitze aus der Klebeverbindung zum oberen Gehäuse.

    I recommend you to use for this step an opening tool instead the spudger. The jimmy is a good option

    Toni -

    The new speakers don’t come with adhesive, so some double sided tape is handy. Also, the right speaker cable can be rather long, so some tape is useful to carefully loop it out the way.

    Steven Taylor -

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    • Hebe die Einheit aus Tieftöner und rechtem Lautsprecher aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Walter Galan

685541 Reputation

2 Kommentare

Oh yeaAAHHH! Right speaker & subwoofer fixed. Thank you!

eepmon -

The replacement subwoofer connector (step 4, which disconnection is required, not optional)was just a bit shorter, and just barely fit, so it was ‘iffy’ whether I’d get it to stay, but it did. Yea! No more sound distortion!!! Such an easy thing to fix!

wyrra -