MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Anfang 2011, Unibody) Akku Austausch

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 121
MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Anfang 2011, Unibody) Akku Austausch

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

7

Zeitaufwand

20 Minuten

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du einen schwachen Akku ersetzen kannst. Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, dann musst du entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.

  1. cJVilSAppmEKRtFW

    • Entferne die zehn Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.

    • Drei 13,5 mm (14,1 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    • Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    • Schaue dir beim Ausdrehen der Schrauben genau an, wie sie leicht schräg herauskommen. Beim Zusammenbau muss das genauso sein.

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will -

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie -

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger -

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick -

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero -

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK -

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos -

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi -

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent -

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer -

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 -

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks -

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq -

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.

    iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?

    Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.

    Norman Gray -

    (The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)

    Norman Gray -

    You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.

    Steven Wymor -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham -

    If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.

    Alan Waller -

    There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.

    Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.

    Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.

    Alan Waller -

    The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.

    Martin Mejia -

    After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com

    Ian Black -

  2. S3X6juTLCvPG3qsj

    • Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an und löse es so von den beiden Clips, die es mit dem Gehäuseoberteil verbinden.

    • Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil und lege es zur Seite.

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael -

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon -

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon -

  3. bYSpKoTKmjLUMOQk
    bYSpKoTKmjLUMOQk
    5mvrDVZ32FbB4C2A

    • Bei bestimmten Reparaturen (z.B. der Festplatte) ist es zwar nicht nötig, den Akku zu trennen, wird aber dennoch empfohlen, da es einem versehentlichen Kurzschluss von elektronischen Bauteilen auf dem Logic Board vorbeugt. Wenn du den Akku nicht abtrennst, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein, da manche Komponenten noch unter Spannung stehen können.

    • Benutze die Kante eines Spudgers, um den Akkustecker nach oben aus seinem Anschluss zu hebeln.

    • Es ist hilfreich, an den beiden kurzen Seiten des Steckers zu hebeln, um ihn so schrittweise aus seinem Anschluss herauszulösen.

    nails work pretty well as well...

    Sibe Jan Kramer -

    At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

    It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

    Other than that, an excellent guide!

    Damienn -

    the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

    the hard drive changing worked though.

    nina -

    Any tool used to pry on the battery connector must be non metallic, to prevent unintentional short circuit between the connector pins. In my case, my index finger nails were strong enough.

    Martin Mejia -

    Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.

    Patrick.

    Patrick Demaret -

    So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

    Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

    Shelly -

    Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

    Duke Briscoe -

    I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

    Jaime Serafim -

    Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

    xtophr -

    Office Depot will take any batteries and dispose of them for free

    silas -

    My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

    Mazo -

    I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

    Dave Kitabjian -

    I used the spudger to gently ease the battery connector out. I then placed a q-tip between the connector and it’s socket to avoid making an accidental connection. A toothpick or some other soft stick might also work.

    Kristina Graham -

    My battery connector had a shiny metal cover over it like a male USB plug. I had to take the 3 peace symbol screws oit and remove the battery before I could access thr plug properly. My battery plug also came off parallel to the board by walking the black plastic part off the metal part towards the battery. It required quite a bit of force to walk it off the connector. I broke a spudger trying. Something nonconductive but strong like a wittled down bamboo chopstick could work well.

    Pii -

    Translate to Spanish:

    Para ciertas reparaciones (por ejemplo, el disco duro), no es necesario desconectar el conector de la batería, pero evita cualquier cortocircuito accidental de la electrónica en la placa base. Si no desconecta el conector de la batería, tenga cuidado ya que partes de la placa base pueden estar electrificadas.

    Use el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    Es útil hacer palanca hacia arriba en ambos lados cortos del conector para "sacarlo" de su zócalo.

    Pakito Villaseñor -

    The BATTERY MUST BE DISCONNECTED - it is NOT OPTIONAL if you are going to remove the logic board.

    These instructions are for Removing The Logic Board, so if that is what you are going to do the battery MUST be disconnected.

    The informational item beginning with the words “For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary … “ is NOT applicable to a set of instructions on removing a logic board and it should be deleted from this otherwise excellent set of instructions.

    Michael Walsh -

    In my opinion the RAM should be removed first - i.e., before the battery is removed.

    The RAM DIMMS are just in the way if they are left in their sockets on the logic board until step 33.

    I cannot see any useful reason to not remove them very early in the sequence.

    Michael Walsh -

    I disconnected the battery because it is an opportunity to reset the SMC (which is how the SMC has to be reset in some older Macs.)

    Barb -

  4. eTItfxSqYQIKnTf1

    • Biege das Akkukabel leicht von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board weg, damit es sich nicht versehentlich wieder selbst verbindet, während du arbeitest.

    My battery connect was like mid 2010 model

    Iain Friend -

    Why not go ahead and remove the battery at this point instead of bending the battery connector back (see steps 23 -25 below)?

    BilMcKelvy -

    Translate to Sanish: Doble el cable de la batería ligeramente lejos de su zócalo en la placa lógica para que no se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabaja.

    Pakito Villaseñor -

  5. wcw4nPCRs5C636VY

    • Entferne die beiden 7,4 mm TriPoint-Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse festhalten.

    Where can I suggest that iFixit add a cross-referenced note/warning when purchasing a replacement battery (or other parts that require odd tools) that you also need to purchase yet another special-purpose *&$%#(%@ screwdriver, "because Apple"!!

    I had to wait for weeks to find time to complete this repair, and now have to wait weeks longer for another chance.

    Note to self: read the entire guide before purchasing, AND before starting the repair, AND while you're doing the repair...

    seijihuzz01 -

    I preferred to use the Y0 for these screws, the Y1 felt too big for the screws they used with my battery.

    Aschwin de Hoog -

    Are these Tri-wing or Tri-tip? Perhaps there isn't a difference but I've seen references to both.

    Robert Hammett -

    I found that I could not remove the Tri-Wing screws with the guide recommended Y1 bit. It was way too large and instantly started stripping the screw. The Y0 bit fits perfectly. I believe the guide incorrectly recommends the Y1. There is also a 3rd Tri-Wing screw in the top left corner of the batters (same orientation as the guide) located UNDER a small black plastic flap.

    Vincent Glon -

    For Logic board removal, I did not find it necessary to remove the 3 tri-point screws or the battery, the board came out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy -

    I did not need to remove the tri-wing screws or the battery to remove the Logic board on my MBP. The logic board comes right out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy -

    As many people above mentioned, I failed to check the tools required. I thought since I’d done other minor fixes/replacements that I’d already have everything I needed but didn’t have that blasted tri-tip screw driver. I got impatient though and forced a small flat head to work with the pliable screw material. Hopefully I didn’t ruin my ability to ever take them out again.

    Tyler Penrod -

    I bought a tool-kit 1.5 years ago to replace the stock HDD with SSD. There’s only one screwdriver of Y type: an index on its facet that reads “CR-V Y2.0“. Will it do? I don’t understand the nomenclature.

    Elijah -

    Replying to myself: I discovered that that screwdriver is a perfect fit for the screw’s in question bit.

    Elijah -

  6. iP5gvOoUaEIIYDAM

    • Ziehe vorsichtig den Warnaufkleber am runden Ende (das Ende ohne Kleber) vom oberen Gehäuse zwischen Akku und optischem Laufwerk ab, um eine weitere TriPoint-Schraube freizulegen.

    • Entferne die letzte 7,4 mm Y0 TriPoint-Schraube, die den Akku am Gehäuse hält.

    • Entferne nicht den Aufkleber auf dem Akku selbst.

    Two of the three plastic screw eyelets on my old battery were broken - I guess someone had dropped the computer at some time. So these two little bits of black plastic fell down into the Unibody when I lifted the battery out. I’m glad I saw them so they didn’t rattle around and cause trouble later on!

    Alan Waller -

    I also had all three of the plastic screw eyelets broken off of the battery after I unscrewed. Wasn’t a problem as I was only replacing the battery.

    silas -

    Putting these screws back in was the only problem I ran into – I had to realign the battery a few times before they went in easily.

    Philip Machanick -

  7. btDJQp5CYXdILTOO

    • Den Akku kannst du mit Hilfe der Plastiklasche vom Gehäuse entfernen.

    • Wenn du einen neuen Akku einbaust, solltest du ihn nach dem Einbau kalibrieren:

    • Lade ihn auf 100% auf und lasse ihn mindestens zwei weitere Stunden am Ladegerät. Ziehe den Stecker und benutze dein MacBook normal, um den Akku zu entladen. Wenn die Ladeanzeige am Minimum ist, dann speichere ab und lasse den Laptop an, bis er von selbst ausgeht. Warte wenigstens 5 Stunden und lade dann ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.

    • Wenn dir nach der Installation deines neuen Akkus etwas Ungewöhnliches auffällt oder Probleme auftreten, kann es sein, dass du den SMC deines MacBooks zurücksetzen musst.

    ifixit kit i bought linked to from here says to discharge below 10% then charge to 100%, but this says to charge, then discharge, then charge. Guess I’ll follow the instructions here, but would be good to update the notes to say whether to disregard the card that comes with the kit or not.

    Nathan Loyer -

    The instructions here in the guide are the most up-to-date. It takes a little longer to make changes/updates to printed materials. Sorry for any confusion!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    WARNING!

    When I lifted my dead battery out, I saw two old 3 mm Phillips case screws lying loose in the bottom of the Unibody. I lifted them out using the magnetism of the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    On gently shaking the case I could hear that there was another loose item still in there somewhere, so I carefully turned the laptop over to have it fall out – and the whole hard disk fell out, though it remained hanging by its cable! I discovered that the two screws holding the retaining strip (that runs the whole length of the hard disk between it and the DVD unit) had been completely loose!

    Nothing broke, but it was a nasty surprise!

    I had bought this machine second-hand as factory refurbished with twelve months guarantee – and gotten three old case screws and a nasty surprise for free! Apart from that, I’ve been really pleased with it.

    Alan Waller -

    I purchased this battery and kit for my late 2011 MacBook Pro on Wednesday and received it today; Monday. Great timing with shipping! Instructions were VERY handy. I almost missed the screw in STEP 6. Thanks for that guys! The kit is exactly what was needed and the battery came out smoothly and replacement went in without any issue!

    Derek Lipscomb -

    After there complete discharge, it certainly needed helped figuring out how long to recharge – it kept telling me another hour and 30 minutes or so for a while. I hope now it knows as it is useful to have an idea how long it’s going to take.

    Philip Machanick -

    How long should it take to drain when using it normally (just websurfing), after charging to 100% and waiting 2+ hours that first time?

    Annelisse Fifi -

    I noticed after first full charge, the battery lasted a little less than 3 hours w constant web surfing… will it improve?

    yetixhunting -

    yetixhunting - Sep 15, 2022.... Batteries are mass produced. it's not necessary that all the product exhibit the same characteristics.

    It's advisable, that you request for a replacement.

    The correct procedure to calibrate the new battery after it's installed, is to use it till discharge to 25% and then charge it to 100% and hold the charging process for 2 more hours

    Then repeat the process mentioned above namely; (discharge to 25% and charge to 100% hold for 2 hours etc)

    This is process is enough to almost stabilize the battery.

    But remember, you'd not obtain a result of OEM standards, in any case. Apple standards are very stringent and such standards will be be there in other manufacturers. Meaning 7 hrs continuous use, when new.

    FYI the device I'm presently on, is MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2011) and I have not replaced the Battery as yet.

    I will not discharge more than 20%.

    Modifications: 126GB HHD replaced to 256GB SSD. 8GB RAM to 16GB. The system is faster than before.

    This machine is the best. Cheers.

    Sree Kumar -

Abschluss

Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil — möglicherweise musst du vor dem Zusammenbau fehlenden Kompletten vom Alt- auf das Neuteil übertragen oder Schutzfolien abgesehen.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Wenn du nach dem Austausch des Akkus ein ungewöhnliches Verhalten oder Probleme bemerkst, muss eventuell der SMC deines MacBook Pros zurückgesetzt werden.

Entferne deinen Elektroschrott fachgerecht.

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Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

685541 Reputation

40 Kommentare

Very well documented and easy to follow.

russlein -

I'd say this difficulty should be rated as easy, not moderate - it's well written and easy to follow, and documents one of the more simple procedures.

graham -

I think they rate it as "moderate" for needing to acquire the "Y" type screwdriver, but, (and here's a protip for first timers...) A small straight-blade actually fits and turns the screw as normal, with no need for special tools. :)

pyrodice -

hello everybody

I am looking for a genuine brand new for my APPLE MACBOOK PRO 15.4 2.2GHZ early 2011 A1286

Someone cane help find it?

BOLLE -

The guide says to use a Y1 Triwing for the battery screws. The Triwing heads are smaller than that. I had a Y1 and it didn't fit. I kludged it with pliers and a Philips P000.

ecomm -

The Y-1 worked perfectly for me.

raholland -

Use a small straight-blade. Sounds odd, but works perfectly.

pyrodice -

@pyrodice what do you mean a small straight blade?

Liz -

Very useful. I was having problems with my trackpad, the cursor was jumping around irratically, and I figured the problem was likely to be either swelling of the battery that I could not see, or dust and dirt on the trackpad. I was at the end of my patience, and my warranty has expired anyway, so this time I VIOLATED APPLES' IMPERITIVE and took out the stupid battery. Piece of cake.

Two things I found, 1) the plastic tabs that hold down the battery were all three broken; the screws had been over tightened from the factory. There were small pieces of plastic from it under the battery on the trackpad. When I got the battery out, I found a very tiny screw loose on the trackpad. I have no idea where it came from, I suspect someone dropped it when this unit was put together, since this has been an on- again off- again problem since

Mark -

I just did this and found a random small black screw… stuck to the back plate! o_0 I also couldn’t figure out where it came from…

Electro Vir -

the computer was new. I removed the screw and dust, and put three small pieces of Velcro (just the fuzzy side) on the battery so that the back case would hold it in place, since the three ridiculous tri-screws were not doing anything, anyway. And put it back together.

And now, it works very, very well!

Somehow, I think an Apple genius would have not told me about having a screw loose...

Mark -

Tout simplement parfait comme guide.

J'ai reçu le matériel hier, aujourd'hui j'ai changé la batterie en 30 min vu qu'en même temps j'ai nettoyer un peu la poussière !!

Merci à vous !!

PS : la nouvelle batterie semble très bien fonctionner ;)

vdecroocq -

1 out of 10 for difficulty; easiest repair I have ever performed on a laptop

cweed -

About as easy as it gets.

scanslers -

Difficulty level should be revised to Easy but perhaps Moderate makes sense depending on how swollen the battery is.

Wasn't even aware that my battery was about to die until my trackpad started to stick and eventually became useless.

In my case, my Early 2011 (MacBook Pro 8,2) battery had over 1,300 cycles and the swollen battery was pressing against the trackpad rendering it basically useless.

Purchased a 3rd party battery off OWC for $99, arrived 3 days later and magic. My cycle count is zero now and the trackback works perfectly.

SuperMango Labs -

Easy as can be. I have never done any computer repair work, and this was simple!!! Thank you!

Lighting Mama Jen -

I originally bought a battery from amazon. But the battery did not work at all.

I then bought the battery here and those tools. It was perfectly working and the tools were very precise and easy to use. The quality of tools was much better than my amazon purchases.

I recommend to replace the battery using the iFixit products.

Thanks.

yingchihfang22 -

Bought the battery, the tools noted and the process was smooth. Took some care to take the warp out of the base cover and the machine is back in action.

I recommend this and add the note that with the right tools the process was EASY.

Cheers.

rodolfobanuelos -

Before you remove the old battery and install the new one, make sure that you go in the System Preferences / Date and Time and have them set to "manual" (i.e. check off "Set date and time automatically" to an Apple server). That could save you lots of hassle when rebooting after replacing the battery.

Lami -

See the thread “krb5kdc + Wrong OS Time + Losing Wifi Password ... | Official Apple Support Communities”, at https://discussions.apple.com/thread/239...

Lami -

Only two little details: I had to plug the new battery in first; then put in the three screws that hold it down. Also would be useful to sort the 4 screw types and match them with the proper holes. Otherwise perfect directions. And I chose to ignore the AUCHTUNG!

rick.hartsock -

So, I replaced the battery, but the machine cuts out after a indeterminate amount of time, necessitating switching it back on again.

This is with no warning, it has done it a couple of times with the battery monitor showing 80% or more.

The machine is completely fine when running on mains power.

Any ideas?

Peter Waine -

Peter, I just replaced the battery on my MacBook Pro 2011 and I’m experiencing the same as you did. It shuts down unless I have it plugged to the main power. Am I suppose to let it charge for a few hours?

Daniel Venegas -

After I replace the battery should I first charge it fully or should I use it first and charge after depleated?

Jason Lopez -

Thank you so much!! Have new life in my early 2011 MPB now!

Tom O'Drain -

If the battery is too swollen, this becomes a challenge to perform as some screws don't want to get out. As much as I really, /really/ did not want to and felt a part of me die inside as I did, I actually wound up ripping the bottom case off of the last three screws that just wouldn't get out (the battery's force actually caused one of the three screwholes to pop out of place, I simply bent the bottom case until the other two popped out.) From there on it was smooth sailing.

...Now to wait for my new battery to come in! (I could've had the swollen battery in there until the new battery came in, but honestly, I feel it's better to do without the Mac for a few days for the peace of mind in knowing I'm not going to have to worry about it blowing up or something of the sort at any given moment ^^") I'm going to feel so cool if this all works; I picked up this Mac for just $100 because of the battery swelling issue.

Richard Montalvo -

Just want to say thank you! You are selling a formidable battery here. I bought one over at eBay for 50 dollars or so and it works, but only gives me app. 2 hours on a full charge. The battery I got from fixit is a little more but still not as expensive as a proper Apple battery where I live and I get around 6 hours on a full charge. I did a calibration, even though I read somewhere else it shouldn't matter when the battery is internal and "non-removable". Thanks again.

cheers,

-jsteweii

Johnny Stewen -

I replaced the battery via your great directions. At first, it seemed to be working perfectly, but then shut off. I turned it on and it worked briefly, but then shut off again. Now it won’t even boot up…What’s going on? Cathy S

Cathy -

Looking to do this repair soon, as my battery is indicating “replace soon” to me.

Did you get your Macbook to work in the end?

James McD (liberation) -

Hello everyone. I just installed a new battery on my Macbook. But I can’t seem to calibrate the battery. It won’t give me accurate predictions regarding the percentage and duration of the battery. I have already tried every calibration procedure that I could find. But it just won’t work. Any idea would could be wrong ?

christophdesousa -

I am just about to replace my swollen battery (ordered with tools from iFixit) however my trackpad is cracked owing to battery swelling - should i buy and replace trackpad at same time to save opening up twice?! Thanks

Harriet Douthwaite -

Harriet - fortunately I read all the comments and questions - including yours. Otherwise I would have described exactly the same problem:

My early 2011 MacBook Pro’s battery is so swollen, that the touchpad sticks out of the keyboard and even the underside of the laptop became curved instead of flat. I wonder whether you got any reply from iFixit? I am afraid to buy the new battery and tools today - only to find out, that more parts need to be replaced which were destroyed by the swollen accu?

Guenter Odebrecht -

Hello Harriet,

After my message yesterday I ordered the replacement battery, and all the three recommended tools. The Phillips and the Tri-Point screwdrivers as well as the spudger. I almost didn’t believe it: this morning, before nine o’clock, DHL was here already with the parcel. The tools are of an excellent quality and I needed all three of them, but within less than 20 minutes the replacement was complete and, against all odds, the MacBook runs again. And to answer your question about the trackpad: mine oozed out by 4mm. But no problem. From the inside the trackpad is held by two thin and short metal stripes, each one fastened by four tiny little screws. Probably the tiniest screws I ever handled, but also here the scPhillips Screwdriver was perfect. Those metal stripes were severely bent bent but could be pressed flat again and I re-mounted them upside down so that they could hold the touchpad perfectly again. Much easier than expected, but obviously a 100% success!

Guenter Odebrecht -

I was given a dead MacBook pro with a battery that was bulging so much that the bottom cover was pushed out almost a half inch. The battery was quite easy to replace using this guide. I bought the battery sold by iFixit. I have only one piece of advice - BUY THE TRIPOINT SCREWDRIVER! I was impatient and removed the tripoint screws by trying to jam in a flathead screwdriver. I got them out, but now the screwheads are stripped a bit. Also, as others have recommended, be sure to calibrate the battery: Turn on the computer and let it drain down to 10%, then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

feinberj -

Merci beaucoup pour ce tutoriel. Je l’ai suivi et cela m’a beaucoup aidé pour changer la batterie sur mon macbook pro 15” fin 2011.

Pour la version française je modifierais l’avant dernier paragraphe, et je le remplacerais par :

Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Puis déconnectez le cordon d’alimentation et utilisez votre appareil normalement. Lors de l'avertissement de batterie faible, enregistrez votre travail et laisser votre ordinateur allumé jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteigne car la batterie est vide. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis reconnectez l’alimentation et rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

Thierry Vanneste -

Bonjour Thierry!

Merci beaucoup pour votre message positif et la proposition de traduction. Je l’ai prise en compte pour remanier le paragraphe. Malheureusement, les caractères d’un paragraphe sont comptés, donc j’ai dû raccourcir une partie.

La prochaine fois, n’hésitez pas à adapter directement la traduction. Pour cela, il suffit de cliquer sur le bouton “Traduire” en haut à droite de l’étape et d’entrer votre traduction.

Merci encore de votre retour et bonnes futures réparations :)

Claire Miesch -

Being anything BUT tech-savvy, I was nervous tackling this battery change by myself. But this guide is pure GOLD. Definitely made the whole process extremely simple and easy to understand from start to finish!

TaylorD -

This guide was spot on! In regards to difficulty this was in my opinion “easy” no moderate. Great instructions, awesome illustrations and easy to follow directions. Thank you!

djsteveo -

Habs heute gemacht und lief alles optimal! Beim ersten Laden hat der Laptop für das letzte 1% bis 100% 1.5 h gebraucht, denke aber das ist normal! Bald probiere ich die Anleitung zum Wechsel der Kühlkörper aus :)

Danke für die ganzen Anleitungen! Freue mich, dass ich meinen alten mit ein paar Änderungen wieder in einem Topzustand habe :)

Golgi Apparat -

G’day folks. This guide and the following comments helped me to get the old swollen battery out. I used a pair of pliers to loosen the screws, as the flat blade screwdriver I had was not enough. The track pad now works again. I did not replace the battery, and the machine seems to be working as normal while running just on mains power, despite warnings on other forums that it would loose performance without the battery. Thanks a lot to all contributors.

Frank -