MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Akkustecker trennen

Geschrieben von: Jeff Suovanen
  • Kommentare: 92
MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Akkustecker trennen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

14

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Grundständige Anleitung, um vor Beginn einer Reparatur den Akku sicher zu trennen.

  1. dLTjRC36EADiCFBK
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    • Zuallererst musst du die automatische Startfunktion (Auto Boot) deines Macs deaktivieren. Auto Boot schaltet deinen Mac ein, wenn du ihn aufklappst, was versehentlich beim Auseinanderbau passieren kann. Benutze diese Anleitung oder befolge die anschließende Kurzversion zum Deaktivieren von Auto Boot. Dieser Befehl funktioniert eventuell nicht auf allen Macs.

    • Schalte deinen Mac ein und starte Terminal.

    • Kopiere den folgenden Befehl und füge ihn im Terminal ein (oder tippe ihn exakt so ein):

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Drücke die Eingabetaste [return]. Wenn du dazu aufgefordert wirst, gib dein Administratorpasswort ein und drücke erneut [return]. Hinweis: die Return-Taste kann auch mit ⏎ oder "enter" gekennzeichnet sein.

    • Nun kannst du deinen Mac sicher herunterfahren und das untere Gehäuse öffnen, ohne dass er sich versehentlich einschaltet.

    • Nachdem deine Reparatur zu Ende ist und dein Gerät wieder erfolgreich zusammengebaut ist, musst du Auto Boot mit folgendem Befehl wieder aktivieren:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF -

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B -

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze -

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian -

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b -

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron -

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek -

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen -

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik -

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu -

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák -

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby -

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 -

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka -

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha -

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda -

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici -

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease -

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena -

    Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

    maël muzelet -

    Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

    Claire Miesch -

    Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

    Tom Markham -

    If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

    arichard2401 -

  2. B2dyIeZ13jMyq4oN

    • Schalte dein MacBook Pro komplett aus und ziehe den Stecker heraus, bevor du anfängst. Schließe das Display und drehe das Laptop um.

    • Entferne die sechs Schrauben, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist, mithilfe eines P5 Pentalobe Schraubendrehers. Die Schrauben haben folgende Längen:

    • Vier 4,7 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 6,6 mm Schrauben

    • Merke dir die Ausrichtung der Schrauben, sie müssen in einem leichten Winkel wieder eingesetzt werden.

    • Behalte während der ganzen Reparatur den Überblick über alle Schrauben, und achte darauf, dass sie beim Wiederzusammenbau an genau die gleiche Stelle kommen, da sonst dein Gerät beschädigt werden kann.

    These screws are TINY and different lengths. I highly recommend purchasing the recommended magnetic project mat.

    Steve -

    So this need to replace each and every screw in its exact former position explains exactly the excruciating difficulty I am having in getting the set of four shorter screws screws back in after everything else having gone successfully. Wanna scream at the top of my lungs. Maybe this point needed to be made in all ALL CAPS and BOLD for me. So can I still just start over trying each screw in each hole or have I messed up the threads in trying to screw in screws mismatched to their holes?

    hatuxka -

    The front screws are at a slight angle, pay attention when putting them back!

    Cristian Caprar -

    I did not have the magnetic project mat, but instead I stuck loops of blue painter's tape on the table, wrote the step number on them in sharpie, and stuck the screws/covers for the corresponding step on them.

    dunhamsteve -

    If the battery you are replacing is swollen and you do not know it is - swollen, Watch out!

    You may strip threads on some of the screws. Rotate the unscrewing as in a clockwise - counterclockwise manner if some of them start to feel tight.

    G Sena -

  3. VZFA1MgVRKCoIZlv
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    • Setze einen Saugheber zwischen die Schraubenlöcher nahe an der Vorderkante des unteren Gehäuses auf.

    • Hebe den Saugheber gerade soweit hoch, dass unter dem unteren Gehäuse ein kleiner Spalt entsteht.

    You can probably just skip to step 6 if battery is swollen. These steps will likely be taken care of for you.

    G Sena -

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    • Schiebe die Ecke eines Plektrums in den eben entstanden Spalt unter dem unteren Gehäuse.

    • Schiebe das Plektrum um die nächste Ecke und dann bis zur Hälfte der Seitenkante des MacBook Pro nach oben.

    • So wird die erste der versteckten Klammern gelöst, mit denen das Untergehäuse befestigt ist. Du solltest das Lösen der Klammer hören und spüren können.

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    • Wiederhole den vorherigen Schritt auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite, um mithilfe des Plektrums die zweite Klammer zu lösen.

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    • Hebe die Vorderkante des unteren Gehäuses (die Kante gegenüber vom Displayscharnier) gerade soweit hoch, dass du deine Fingerspitzen darunterschieben kannst, um das Gehäuse zu fassen.

    • Zwei weitere versteckte Klammer in der Nähe der Mitte des Gehäuses können sich an diesem Punkt lösen, wenn das nicht bereits passiert ist.

    • Hebe das untere Gehäuse nicht zu weit an und versuche noch nicht, es zu entfernen.

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    • Ziehe das untere Gehäuse fest nach vorne (weg vom Bereich mit den Scharnier), um die letzten Klammern zu lösen, mit denen es befestigt ist.

    • Ziehe zuerst an der einen Ecke, dann an der anderen.

    • Ziehe zu Seite hin, nicht nach oben.

    • Du musst wahrscheinlich ziemlich kräftig ziehen.

    This step drew blood. Darn you Apple!

    Kyle B -

    I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.

    Athanassios Diacakis -

    If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.

    Adrian Brown -

    I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!

    wmetzgerusa -

    Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.

    tonygreenfield -

    I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.

    stevanuscg -

    Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.

    Indawg Wetrust -

    Thanks Indawg Wetrust, Made it very easy!

    Louis C -

    They, iFixit, are not kidding. Quite a bit of force needed.

    Norm Hils -

    This step requires a lot of force to slide the back cover away. Make sure you get a good grip of the mac body and of the back panel.

    Cristian Caprar -

  8. 2jJJSwavVeNYqoh1
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    • Entferne das untere Gehäuse.

    • Das untere Gehäuse wird folgendermaßen wieder eingebaut:

    • Setze das Untergehäuse an seinen Platz und richte die Gleitklemmen nahe am Displayscharnier aus. Drücke es nach unten und schiebe die Abdeckung in Richtung Scharnier. Sobald die Klammern eingerastet sind, kann es nicht mehr weiter geschoben werden.

    • Wenn die Gleitklemmen ganz hingerastet sind und das Untergehäuse richtig ausgerichtet aussieht, kannst du es fest nach unten drücken, damit die vier versteckten Klammern einrasten. Das solltest du hören und spüren können.

    I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross

    Ross Elkins -

  9. ocQPFYqHXXonU4nL
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    • Löse die große rechteckige Abdeckung über der Akku-Platine an der Kante des Logic Boards, die dem Akku am nächsten ist, ab und entferne sie.

    • Falls sich die Abdeckung nicht leicht ablösen lässt, kannst du sie mithilfe eines iOpeners, eines Föns oder einer Heißluftpistole leicht erwärmen, um den Kleber darunter aufzuweichen, und es dann erneut versuchen.

    • Wenn sich die Abdeckung beim Zusammenbau nicht fest einsetzen lässt, versuche, sie um 180° zu drehen. Sie muss richtig ausgerichtet sein, damit die Klebepads an der Unterseite auf den Schrauben der Platine sitzen.

    What is the though behind this step? I have replace my trackpad before, and I did not do this step. At the time, there was no guide. As a result, I’m wondering how this changes/or if it is necessary for the repair process.

    Anthony Bleyer -

    It’s necessary in order to disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the battery before making repairs.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I found my one of my fan making some noise, when open the bottom of my Mac I see this piece floating over the fan. Trying to put it back where it goes but don’t seem to stick anymore and move around. Does this piece is really necessary or I can simply remove it or order a new one from you?

    Alexandre Bolduc -

    It should be pretty easy to reattach. Put a dab of rubber cement or a bit of double-sided tape on top of each of the screws underneath the cover, press the cover down, and close up your MacBook. It should stay put. Don’t use superglue or anything else that will harden over the screw heads and make it impossible to fit a driver in there later.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.

    scoop scoop -

    My Macbook doesn’t appear to even have this piece.

    Nate Bartlett -

    This cover is not attached to anything critical underneath, so do not be afraid that you can break anything like pulling anything from the mainboard. Just pull it out. To reattach, I removed the old double side adhesive tape and replaced with fresh one.

    Cristian Caprar -

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    • Löse das Klebeband über dem Stecker des Akkuplatinen-Datenkabels ab.

    • Das Klebeband lässt sich unter Umständen nicht ganz ablösen, aber es muss nur soweit abgelöst werden, dass man an den Stecker herankommt.

    Wow, mine peeled up from the board. Now I have some board level soldering. Any part number on the connector for this cable on the board.

    Mark Mata -

    I second that; does anybody know where this battery board data cable connector can be purchased?

    Tim -

    The replacement battery did not come with the “tape” in this cable so it was very difficult to reinsert the cable into the zif socket. Now I can’t get the replacement battery to charge.

    J D -

    I have the same issue, My battery is not charging. Did you figure out how to get your battery to charge?

    Jeremy Smith -

    In my case, the original replacement was faulty. iFixIt sent an RMA without hesitation, and I am happy to report that the new one works fine. But also recheck this step and steps 13/14.

    J D -

    Note that the tape covering that comes on the OEM battery is not included in the battery sent from iFixIt. I removed it from the old and attached it to the new, but it does not “re-stick” very well, so it’s rather difficult to re-insert. Be careful, the ribbon is fragile.

    J D -

    I broke the locking flap! Also, my original tape lost its stickiness as well. I cut out a small piece of electrical tape to keep the cable snug in place. Also will work to keep it secure since I broke the locking flap.

    Edward Pascua -

    I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross

    Ross Elkins -

    REALLY important. You need to really pull this back in snug for things to work when you reassemble.

    Michael Stelzner -

    I didn’t seem to have any tape covering it, I just proceeded to the next step

    Nathan Skene -

    My battery board connecter is broken. Let me know where can I get these cables.?

    Lalitha Prasad -

    I recommend to just lift a little the right end (end of the cable side), then keep the socket in place with a spudger while removing this adhesive tape, to avoid any accident like ripping off your socket. With a little care, it is safe and easy to remove completely.

    Cristian Caprar -

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    • Heble den Sicherungsbügel auf dem ZIF-Stecker des Akkuplatinen-Datenkabels vorsichtig mit einem Spudger hoch.

    Mein Sicherungsbügel ist abgebrochen, oder zumindest nicht mehr auf dem ZIF-Stecker. Ist dieser Sicherungsbügel sehr wichtig, oder kann ich das Kabel dennoch zurück stecken?

    Fabio Jock -

    Hallo Fabio, wahrscheinlich wird das Kabel ohne den Bügel nicht mehr halten. Das Zurückstecken geht, aber es bleibt nur sehr fragil drin.

    Fabian Neidhardt -

    Sie sollten in der Lage sein, das Kabel wieder anzuschließen und mit einem guten Klebeband abzudichten.

    mark -

    My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.

    Ian Simmons -

    lock flap broke when I was about to close it, is there any way to fix it? The computer can't find the battery

    Gabriel -

    I had no issue here but I recommend to use a second spudger to keep the rest of the socket in place while GENTLY lifting the lock. It should lift without effort.

    Cristian Caprar -

    When putting it back, be careful, there might be a little piece of transparent adhesive foil on top of the socket, gently lift it up on the side of the cable. The cable should slide in easily, but do not force it. About 0.5mm of the cable contacts will be VISIBLE on the left side, when the cable is fully it, do not force it more than that.

    Cristian Caprar -

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    • Trenne das Akkuplatinen-Datenkabel, indem du es aus seinem Anschluss herausschiebst.

    • Schiebe es parallel zum Logic Board in Richtung des Kabels.

    If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?

    Jose Lopez -

    I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.

    Mark Mata -

    Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.

    Charles Braxton -

    Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/

    Sebastian Fritsch -

    I couldn‘t find the fpc 6 pin connector with 0,5 mm grid. However I managed to connect the flex cable directly on the mother board with 0,3 mm isolation filament! It was tough but I‘m so happy that it works again :)

    Sebastian Fritsch -

    Would you be able to give a little instruction on how you were able to make this work? I’m super curious and need a solution to the same issue.

    Tim -

    Anybody know where this connected can be purchased? Mine completely snapped to pieces the moment I touched it.

    Tim -

    Surprised by the tolerance of this little connector to my mistake of not flipping up the not very noticeable clamping element on side opposite to where the contact tip is inserted. The contact tip pulled right out without having done that. Saw in a video I should have done that before pulling the contact tip out. Remembered when reinstalling it.

    hatuxka -

    The cable is stuck on the board underneath with adhesive, so it is best to first work it a little from left under (as the picture is oriented) in order to break the adhesive, and then pull it sideways. At all times, I kept the socket safe with a spudger to avoid ripping it off the board. The cable will come out with a little effort. Remember, it is the socket you need to take care of, not the cable (the cable will be thrown away with the old battery).

    Cristian Caprar -

    I had issues in reassembly - the lever for the ZIF socket was missing. I think it came off with the tape. I found the lever, but it was way too small for me to reattach (I couldn't hold it well enough with the tweezers and wasn't sure where the hinge pins went).

    The computer did not recognize the battery or recognized it with errors (if I got the cable just right) without the lever.

    My solution was to cut a tiny bit of electrical tape and put it on the back of the ribbon cable to make it thicker. This gave it enough traction to stay in the socket and pushed the ribbon onto the contacts.

    dunhamsteve -

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    • Entferne mithilfe eines T5 Torx Schraubendrehers die 3,7 mm Flachkopfschraube, mit der der Akkustrom-Stecker befestigt ist.

    It was actually T6 in my case

    Fedor Pudeyan -

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    • Hebe den Akkustrom-Stecker vorsichtig mit einem Spudger hoch, und trenne so den Akku.

    • Hebe den Stecker hoch genug an, damit er während der Arbeit nicht an den Anschluss kommt. Er könnte sich sonst versehentlich verbinden und so dein MacBook Pro beschädigen.

    I tossed a piece of tape on the connector just to be safe.

    Kyle B -

    wondering if i didn’t heed this warning close enough. mac not powering on. only black screen with battery and lightning bolt beneath it. What happens if this connector makes contact?

    ONYCHA HAZEL -

    im in the exact same boat right now.

    Was everything okay in your case?

    Anthony Gasbarro -

    Same here until I realized that I never reconnected the tiny power button/Touch ID connector in step 31! It’s underneath the headphone cable jack from step 30. Mine was hiding under the board and I carefully fished it out with a tweezers.

    ajm0824 -

    I have the same issue. Followed Instructions to theT. Battery is connected properly as it fully charged however, it will not power on. If i disconnect the battery and connect the power adaptor, it powers on. How did you resolve your issue?

    Ian Duff -

    Mine will power on, but will not charge.

    J D -

    Hi, did you manage to fix this? Ive got the same issue sadly.

    Cooldude2222 -

    Same problem, any solution?

    federico.cirillo -

    Lifting up to about 75 degrees is more that enough and safe, and I did also use some electrical tape to block the contact. When this goes back, there is no socket in place, it is just the screw that keeps it there.

    Cristian Caprar -

    I put electrical tape on this as well. Glad I did. "Being careful" during the whole process gets lost when you're focusing on other parts.

    Jay -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Jeff Suovanen

Mitglied seit: 06/08/13

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