MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Logic Board Einheit tauschen

Schritt 1

Zuallererst musst du die automatische Startfunktion (Auto Boot) deines Macs deaktivieren. Auto Boot schaltet deinen Mac ein, wenn du ihn aufklappst, was versehentlich beim Auseinanderbau passieren kann. Benutze diese Anleitung oder befolge die anschließende Kurzversion zum Deaktivieren von Auto Boot. Dieser Befehl funktioniert eventuell nicht auf allen Macs.
Schalte deinen Mac ein und starte Terminal.
Kopiere den folgenden Befehl und füge ihn im Terminal ein (oder tippe ihn exakt so ein):
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
Drücke die Eingabetaste [return]. Wenn du dazu aufgefordert wirst, gib dein Administratorpasswort ein und drücke erneut [return]. Hinweis: die Return-Taste kann auch mit ⏎ oder "enter" gekennzeichnet sein.
Nun kannst du deinen Mac sicher herunterfahren und das untere Gehäuse öffnen, ohne dass er sich versehentlich einschaltet.
Nachdem deine Reparatur zu Ende ist und dein Gerät wieder erfolgreich zusammengebaut ist, musst du Auto Boot mit folgendem Befehl wieder aktivieren:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

Macrepair SF - 02/07/19

@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 03/07/19

Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

Dan -

This did not work when running High Sierra.

Kyle B - 22/10/19

Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

Cool_Breeze - 19/11/19

I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

Brian - 07/02/20

Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

Nursat b - 26/08/20

BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

Jason Sherron - 09/10/20

This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

Patrick Machacek - 27/11/20

Not able to do that with damaged screen

richardjgreen - 15/12/20

If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

Adrian Vizik - 16/01/21

Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

Roberto Enrieu - 22/01/21

running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

result: `AutoBoot %00`

Marek Polák - 01/02/21

Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

Ed Mechem - 24/06/22

This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

Grant Ormsby - 11/03/21

It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

tommy404 - 28/04/21

I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

hatuxka -

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

bcardanha -

When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

johann beda -

When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

Ed Mechem - 24/06/22

I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

Mircea Comanici -

After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

Ed Mease -

This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

G Sena -

Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

maël muzelet -

Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

Claire Miesch -

Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

Tom Markham -

If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

arichard2401 -

Schritt 2

Schalte dein MacBook Pro komplett aus und ziehe den Stecker heraus, bevor du anfängst. Schließe das Display und drehe das Laptop um.
Entferne die sechs Schrauben, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist, mithilfe eines P5 Pentalobe Schraubendrehers. Die Schrauben haben folgende Längen:
Vier 4,7 mm Schrauben
Zwei 6,6 mm Schrauben
Merke dir die Ausrichtung der Schrauben, sie müssen in einem leichten Winkel wieder eingesetzt werden.
Behalte während der ganzen Reparatur den Überblick über alle Schrauben, und achte darauf, dass sie beim Wiederzusammenbau an genau die gleiche Stelle kommen, da sonst dein Gerät beschädigt werden kann.

These screws are TINY and different lengths. I highly recommend purchasing the recommended magnetic project mat.

Steve - 18/02/21

So this need to replace each and every screw in its exact former position explains exactly the excruciating difficulty I am having in getting the set of four shorter screws screws back in after everything else having gone successfully. Wanna scream at the top of my lungs. Maybe this point needed to be made in all ALL CAPS and BOLD for me. So can I still just start over trying each screw in each hole or have I messed up the threads in trying to screw in screws mismatched to their holes?

hatuxka -

The front screws are at a slight angle, pay attention when putting them back!

Cristian Caprar -

I did not have the magnetic project mat, but instead I stuck loops of blue painter's tape on the table, wrote the step number on them in sharpie, and stuck the screws/covers for the corresponding step on them.

dunhamsteve -

If the battery you are replacing is swollen and you do not know it is - swollen, Watch out!

You may strip threads on some of the screws. Rotate the unscrewing as in a clockwise - counterclockwise manner if some of them start to feel tight.

G Sena -

Schritt 3

Setze einen Saugheber zwischen die Schraubenlöcher nahe an der Vorderkante des unteren Gehäuses auf.
Hebe den Saugheber gerade soweit hoch, dass unter dem unteren Gehäuse ein kleiner Spalt entsteht.

You can probably just skip to step 6 if battery is swollen. These steps will likely be taken care of for you.

G Sena -

Schritt 4

Schiebe die Ecke eines Plektrums in den eben entstanden Spalt unter dem unteren Gehäuse.
Schiebe das Plektrum um die nächste Ecke und dann bis zur Hälfte der Seitenkante des MacBook Pro nach oben.
So wird die erste der versteckten Klammern gelöst, mit denen das Untergehäuse befestigt ist. Du solltest das Lösen der Klammer hören und spüren können.

Schritt 5

Wiederhole den vorherigen Schritt auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite, um mithilfe des Plektrums die zweite Klammer zu lösen.

Schritt 6

Hebe die Vorderkante des unteren Gehäuses (die Kante gegenüber vom Displayscharnier) gerade soweit hoch, dass du deine Fingerspitzen darunterschieben kannst, um das Gehäuse zu fassen.
Zwei weitere versteckte Klammer in der Nähe der Mitte des Gehäuses können sich an diesem Punkt lösen, wenn das nicht bereits passiert ist.
Hebe das untere Gehäuse nicht zu weit an und versuche noch nicht, es zu entfernen.

Schritt 7

Ziehe das untere Gehäuse fest nach vorne (weg vom Bereich mit den Scharnier), um die letzten Klammern zu lösen, mit denen es befestigt ist.
Ziehe zuerst an der einen Ecke, dann an der anderen.
Ziehe zu Seite hin, nicht nach oben.
Du musst wahrscheinlich ziemlich kräftig ziehen.

This step drew blood. Darn you Apple!

Kyle B - 22/10/19

I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.

Athanassios Diacakis - 05/11/19

If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.

Adrian Brown - 22/01/20

I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!

wmetzgerusa - 23/03/20

Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.

tonygreenfield - 23/06/20

I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.

stevanuscg - 29/07/20

Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.

Indawg Wetrust - 13/09/20

Thanks Indawg Wetrust, Made it very easy!

Louis C - 04/05/21

They, iFixit, are not kidding. Quite a bit of force needed.

Norm Hils -

This step requires a lot of force to slide the back cover away. Make sure you get a good grip of the mac body and of the back panel.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 8

Entferne das untere Gehäuse.
Das untere Gehäuse wird folgendermaßen wieder eingebaut:
Setze das Untergehäuse an seinen Platz und richte die Gleitklemmen nahe am Displayscharnier aus. Drücke es nach unten und schiebe die Abdeckung in Richtung Scharnier. Sobald die Klammern eingerastet sind, kann es nicht mehr weiter geschoben werden.
Wenn die Gleitklemmen ganz hingerastet sind und das Untergehäuse richtig ausgerichtet aussieht, kannst du es fest nach unten drücken, damit die vier versteckten Klammern einrasten. Das solltest du hören und spüren können.

I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross

Ross Elkins - 07/12/20

Schritt 9

Löse die große rechteckige Abdeckung über der Akku-Platine an der Kante des Logic Boards, die dem Akku am nächsten ist, ab und entferne sie.
Falls sich die Abdeckung nicht leicht ablösen lässt, kannst du sie mithilfe eines iOpeners, eines Föns oder einer Heißluftpistole leicht erwärmen, um den Kleber darunter aufzuweichen, und es dann erneut versuchen.
Wenn sich die Abdeckung beim Zusammenbau nicht fest einsetzen lässt, versuche, sie um 180° zu drehen. Sie muss richtig ausgerichtet sein, damit die Klebepads an der Unterseite auf den Schrauben der Platine sitzen.

What is the though behind this step? I have replace my trackpad before, and I did not do this step. At the time, there was no guide. As a result, I’m wondering how this changes/or if it is necessary for the repair process.

Anthony Bleyer - 20/06/19

It’s necessary in order to disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the battery before making repairs.

Jeff Suovanen - 22/06/19

I found my one of my fan making some noise, when open the bottom of my Mac I see this piece floating over the fan. Trying to put it back where it goes but don’t seem to stick anymore and move around. Does this piece is really necessary or I can simply remove it or order a new one from you?

Alexandre Bolduc - 16/10/19

It should be pretty easy to reattach. Put a dab of rubber cement or a bit of double-sided tape on top of each of the screws underneath the cover, press the cover down, and close up your MacBook. It should stay put. Don’t use superglue or anything else that will harden over the screw heads and make it impossible to fit a driver in there later.

Jeff Suovanen - 03/12/19

Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.

scoop scoop - 17/06/20

My Macbook doesn’t appear to even have this piece.

Nate Bartlett - 27/02/21

This cover is not attached to anything critical underneath, so do not be afraid that you can break anything like pulling anything from the mainboard. Just pull it out. To reattach, I removed the old double side adhesive tape and replaced with fresh one.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 10

Löse das Klebeband über dem Stecker des Akkuplatinen-Datenkabels ab.
Das Klebeband lässt sich unter Umständen nicht ganz ablösen, aber es muss nur soweit abgelöst werden, dass man an den Stecker herankommt.

Wow, mine peeled up from the board. Now I have some board level soldering. Any part number on the connector for this cable on the board.

Mark Mata - 01/04/20

I second that; does anybody know where this battery board data cable connector can be purchased?

Tim - 16/07/20

The replacement battery did not come with the “tape” in this cable so it was very difficult to reinsert the cable into the zif socket. Now I can’t get the replacement battery to charge.

J D - 26/09/20

I have the same issue, My battery is not charging. Did you figure out how to get your battery to charge?

Jeremy Smith - 29/09/20

In my case, the original replacement was faulty. iFixIt sent an RMA without hesitation, and I am happy to report that the new one works fine. But also recheck this step and steps 13/14.

J D - 07/10/20

Note that the tape covering that comes on the OEM battery is not included in the battery sent from iFixIt. I removed it from the old and attached it to the new, but it does not “re-stick” very well, so it’s rather difficult to re-insert. Be careful, the ribbon is fragile.

J D - 07/10/20

I broke the locking flap! Also, my original tape lost its stickiness as well. I cut out a small piece of electrical tape to keep the cable snug in place. Also will work to keep it secure since I broke the locking flap.

Edward Pascua -

I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross

Ross Elkins - 08/12/20

REALLY important. You need to really pull this back in snug for things to work when you reassemble.

Michael Stelzner - 18/01/21

I didn’t seem to have any tape covering it, I just proceeded to the next step

Nathan Skene - 12/02/21

My battery board connecter is broken. Let me know where can I get these cables.?

Lalitha Prasad - 25/05/21

I recommend to just lift a little the right end (end of the cable side), then keep the socket in place with a spudger while removing this adhesive tape, to avoid any accident like ripping off your socket. With a little care, it is safe and easy to remove completely.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 11

Heble den Sicherungsbügel auf dem ZIF-Stecker des Akkuplatinen-Datenkabels vorsichtig mit einem Spudger hoch.

Mein Sicherungsbügel ist abgebrochen, oder zumindest nicht mehr auf dem ZIF-Stecker. Ist dieser Sicherungsbügel sehr wichtig, oder kann ich das Kabel dennoch zurück stecken?

Fabio Jock - 01/05/20

Hallo Fabio, wahrscheinlich wird das Kabel ohne den Bügel nicht mehr halten. Das Zurückstecken geht, aber es bleibt nur sehr fragil drin.

Fabian Neidhardt - 25/11/20

Sie sollten in der Lage sein, das Kabel wieder anzuschließen und mit einem guten Klebeband abzudichten.

mark - 28/05/20

My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.

Ian Simmons - 24/11/20

lock flap broke when I was about to close it, is there any way to fix it? The computer can't find the battery

Gabriel - 19/03/21

I had no issue here but I recommend to use a second spudger to keep the rest of the socket in place while GENTLY lifting the lock. It should lift without effort.

Cristian Caprar -

When putting it back, be careful, there might be a little piece of transparent adhesive foil on top of the socket, gently lift it up on the side of the cable. The cable should slide in easily, but do not force it. About 0.5mm of the cable contacts will be VISIBLE on the left side, when the cable is fully it, do not force it more than that.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 12

Trenne das Akkuplatinen-Datenkabel, indem du es aus seinem Anschluss herausschiebst.
Schiebe es parallel zum Logic Board in Richtung des Kabels.

If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?

Jose Lopez - 08/04/20

I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.

Mark Mata - 28/05/20

Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.

Charles Braxton - 17/06/20

Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/

Sebastian Fritsch - 03/07/20

I couldn‘t find the fpc 6 pin connector with 0,5 mm grid. However I managed to connect the flex cable directly on the mother board with 0,3 mm isolation filament! It was tough but I‘m so happy that it works again :)

Sebastian Fritsch - 15/07/20

Would you be able to give a little instruction on how you were able to make this work? I’m super curious and need a solution to the same issue.

Tim - 16/07/20

Anybody know where this connected can be purchased? Mine completely snapped to pieces the moment I touched it.

Tim - 16/07/20

Surprised by the tolerance of this little connector to my mistake of not flipping up the not very noticeable clamping element on side opposite to where the contact tip is inserted. The contact tip pulled right out without having done that. Saw in a video I should have done that before pulling the contact tip out. Remembered when reinstalling it.

hatuxka -

The cable is stuck on the board underneath with adhesive, so it is best to first work it a little from left under (as the picture is oriented) in order to break the adhesive, and then pull it sideways. At all times, I kept the socket safe with a spudger to avoid ripping it off the board. The cable will come out with a little effort. Remember, it is the socket you need to take care of, not the cable (the cable will be thrown away with the old battery).

Cristian Caprar -

I had issues in reassembly - the lever for the ZIF socket was missing. I think it came off with the tape. I found the lever, but it was way too small for me to reattach (I couldn't hold it well enough with the tweezers and wasn't sure where the hinge pins went).

The computer did not recognize the battery or recognized it with errors (if I got the cable just right) without the lever.

My solution was to cut a tiny bit of electrical tape and put it on the back of the ribbon cable to make it thicker. This gave it enough traction to stay in the socket and pushed the ribbon onto the contacts.

dunhamsteve -

Schritt 13

Entferne mithilfe eines T5 Torx Schraubendrehers die 3,7 mm Flachkopfschraube, mit der der Akkustrom-Stecker befestigt ist.

It was actually T6 in my case

Fedor Pudeyan -

Schritt 14

Hebe den Akkustrom-Stecker vorsichtig mit einem Spudger hoch, und trenne so den Akku.
Hebe den Stecker hoch genug an, damit er während der Arbeit nicht an den Anschluss kommt. Er könnte sich sonst versehentlich verbinden und so dein MacBook Pro beschädigen.

I tossed a piece of tape on the connector just to be safe.

Kyle B - 22/10/19

wondering if i didn’t heed this warning close enough. mac not powering on. only black screen with battery and lightning bolt beneath it. What happens if this connector makes contact?

ONYCHA HAZEL - 18/08/20

im in the exact same boat right now.

Was everything okay in your case?

Anthony Gasbarro - 23/09/20

Same here until I realized that I never reconnected the tiny power button/Touch ID connector in step 31! It’s underneath the headphone cable jack from step 30. Mine was hiding under the board and I carefully fished it out with a tweezers.

ajm0824 - 07/02/21

I have the same issue. Followed Instructions to theT. Battery is connected properly as it fully charged however, it will not power on. If i disconnect the battery and connect the power adaptor, it powers on. How did you resolve your issue?

Ian Duff -

Mine will power on, but will not charge.

J D - 27/09/20

Hi, did you manage to fix this? Ive got the same issue sadly.

Cooldude2222 - 24/02/21

Same problem, any solution?

federico.cirillo -

Lifting up to about 75 degrees is more that enough and safe, and I did also use some electrical tape to block the contact. When this goes back, there is no socket in place, it is just the screw that keeps it there.

Cristian Caprar -

I put electrical tape on this as well. Glad I did. "Being careful" during the whole process gets lost when you're focusing on other parts.

Jay -

Schritt 15

Entferne mithilfe eines T3 Torx Schraubendrehers die beiden 1,9 mm Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckhalterung des Trackpad-Kabels befestigt ist.
Entferne die Halterung.

T3 doesn’t seem to fit, somehow on my a1707 the driver doesn’t grip and it just slips on the screw.

What am I doing wrong?

I don’t have a T2 to try, what can I do?

Luciano Colosio - 06/04/20

I managed to get a holt of a T2, but still no luck: there are a bunch of screws that seem to be T2 but everything I stick inside them just spins around and doesn’t grip :(

Luciano Colosio - 08/04/20

T4 worked perfectly

DonPanchito - 05/06/20

Indeed, a T4 worked for me, also.

Roy Vanegas -

Schritt 16

Benutze einen Spudger, um das Trackpad-Kabel zu trennen, indem du seinen Stecker gerade vom Logic Board hochhebelst.

I managed to pry the metal bit with screw holes off first. Whoops.

Nathan Skene - 12/02/21

Make sure the spudger goes under the entire plastic connector, not just the surface metal place, as you risk damaging it like the comment above.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 17

Erwärme das Trackpad-Kabel leicht, um den Kleber aufzuweichen, mit dem es am Akku befestigt ist.
Du kannst einen iOpener, einen Fön oder eine Heißluftpistole benutzen, achte aber darauf, den Akku nicht zu überhitzen. Das Kabel darf sich nur warm, nicht aber heiß anfühlen.

I used a hairdrier. Barely needed to hold it there for 20 seconds before I could peel it off.

Nathan Skene - 12/02/21

This cable can be carefully peeled off the battery by hand by those deft of hand. Gradually and inching along its length.

hatuxka -

Just warming it gently made it easy to peel off. Work with care starting from the free end, lift a little, move your grip, etc. Do not lift it all at once, there is a risk of breaking it. It is safe to then move it at 180 degrees angle, completely on the other side.

Cristian Caprar -

All my battery packs were swollen. The trackpad ribbon cable was barely adhered to this battery pack. No heating necessary.

Richard Schletty -

Rubbing with your finger and heat the ribbon. Works also.

Schwoegi -

Schritt 18

Löse das Trackpad-Kabel vorsichtig vom Akku ab und schiebe es aus dem Weg.
Das Kabel darf nicht gefaltet werden. Achte auch darauf, es nicht zu zerreißen. Falls du Schwierigkeiten hast, darfst du nichts erzwingen, erwärme in diesem Fall das Kabel erneut und versuche es noch einmal.

thin ifixit pick opener sliding gently/slowly underneath ribbon cable towards the front edge of mbp did the trick for me. no need for heat.

Macrepair SF - 02/07/19

In my case the sticky part of the track pad ribbon remained on the battery. So after replacement the trackpad ribbon does not have a sticker to stay on the battery.

Neil Robinson - 10/12/20

Did it work all right without the adhesive there?

That happened to me too! I thought that was what was supposed to happen, until I read your comment. I managed to peel it off the battery, but before I could catch it it rolled up into a tight ball. I got about half of it unrolled and onto the ribbon.

rileybk - 25/01/21

Since this step you can skip the part with removing the trackpad and logic board and just remove 7 screws (step 47, except green and blue) holding the logic board so you can lift it for a few millimetres just to take off the battery. You can find a YouTube videos where a guy is replacing the battery very easily. So waste of time and a lot of places to screw up you MacBook doing it this way.

durmstrang -

Schritt 19

Benutze einen T5 Torx Schraubendreher, um die 13 Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Trackpad-Einheit befestigt ist:
Neun 5,8 mm Schrauben
Vier 4,9 mm Schrauben
Diese Schrauben ähneln sich sehr. Achte darauf, sie nicht zu vermischen.
Durch das Klicken auf das Force Touch Trackpad können sich diese Schrauben im Lauf der Zeit lockern. Du kannst beim Zusammenbau etwas blauen Gewindekleber benutzen, damit sie sich nicht lockern.
Setze die Schrauben lose ein und kontrolliere die Ausrichtung des Trackpads, bevor du sie festziehst.

Using a piece of cellophane tape can help hold the trackpad in place with with proper clearance all around.

Russell Johnson -

Schritt 20

Klappe das Display ein wenig auf, aber lasse das MacBook immer noch umgekehrt liegen. Die Trackpad-Einheit sollte sich lösen und flach auf dem Display aufliegen.
Ziehe das Flachbandkabel des Trackpads vorsichtig durch seinen Schlitz im Rahmen.
Merke dir den richtigen Schlitz für den Wiedereinbau des Trackpad-Kabels. Es geht durch den schmalen Schlitz beim Akku, nicht durch den größeren Schlitz bei der Vorderkante des MacBook Pro.

WARNING - READ THE NEXT STEP NOW OR YOU WILL LOSE THE WASHERS. Please update this with BIG RED LETTERS in the step to indicate what is about to happen, or you’ll skip forward and the washers will fly everywhere. I’m really upset right now.

Jason Sherron - 09/10/20

I would add step 21 to step 20. The warning about potentially losing the washers should be part of this step, not a separate one.

fippolito - 15/03/21

this step is BS, I didn’t remove the touch bar, you just need to remove enough screws on the upper board to be able to pull the battery plastic frame and put it gain…

what a loss of time!

a m -

Schritt 21

Achte beim Entfernen der Trackpad-Einheit darauf, nicht die neun kleinen Metall-Unterlegscheiben auf den Schraubpfosten zu verlieren.
Entferne die Trackpad-Einheit.

They are not kidding about the jumping washers.

Kent Folsom - 23/04/20

Pro Tip: put your magnetic mat under the trackpad as you slide it out to catch the tiny washers. Alternatively, a magnetic tool bowl, or a terry cloth towel so the lighter guys can’t get far if they fall.

Kent Folsom - 23/04/20

Mine are made of aluminum or stainless or something that magnets don't attract. Flypaper, maybe? :-D

dgatwood -

Can I change the battery with out removing the trackpad and logic board?

Mateo Munoz - 15/08/20

yes

I did it, you just have you remove enough screws on the board to bend it upwards in order to pull the battery frame that’s it…

my mac is working fine

a m -

yep lost a washer in the process

Jason Sherron - 09/10/20

My trackpad underside was dusty. Without thinking, I tried to blow off some of the dust. One washer and one double washer were finally found thanks to a bright flashlight and the contrasting color of the wood floor.

hatuxka -

One of the washer remained stuck on the body, luckily I observed it on the working table when I cleaned the dust from the trackpad casing area. Be VERY careful to not loose these tiny metal pieces!

Cristian Caprar -

Without the washers the clicking and moving mouse around doenst work well. very important

Herbie Computer Service -

Ok, I have all but 1 round washer. I found the rest. Not knowing a source (not even in my extensive parts collection) I will reassemble with the middle one without a washer. If anyone knows of a parts source (other than buying a trackpad assembly) please post here, Thanks.

Carl Schultz -

When you put the trackpad to the side, write a note and put it on top so you don’t forget about the washers when you come to reassemble it.

Robert Such -

Followed the advice on disassembly but did not on re-assembly. Lost one of the larger ones.

Recommend changing text to RED (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.)

*also agree with Robert Such but I was in a bit of a hurry to finish. Take your time.

G Sena -

I agree. An obvious warning at or right after the removal of the trackpad screws should be added. The trackpad washers can be easily dislodged and go missing if you are not prepared to protect against that from happening.

mmorder -

I used a clean paint brush to dust off the back of the trackpad and internals. One of the round washers flew out of the assembly and got lost. The washers are super easy to lift off the posts. BE VERY GENTLE WITH THE TRACKPAD REMOVAL AND HANDLING!

Justin Lopez -

This needs to be moved WAY up higher. You are 100% guaranteed to lose one by the time you start the previous step, because the trackpad will fall the microsecond you start to open the case. Really, you shouldn't remove the last screw until you're holding the trackpad from underneath.

Also, the battery replacement kit should really come with at least one extra washer, because I can pretty much guarantee nobody will ever do this without losing one. It is darn near impossible to deal with something that lightweight. Even putting the trackpad down on the counter is enough to lose one, much less having it drop out of the bottom while you're cracking open the laptop.

dgatwood -

I found it, and it wasn't in a place you might expect. There's a bit of metal trim on the back of the trackpad itself, and the washer was underneath that. I actually had to dump all the washers out onto the bottom case, and suddenly it peeked out from under the metal rim. Worse, these things are aluminum (or maybe metallized mylar), so you can't pick them up with magnets....

It might be a good idea to put some masking tape on the trackpad to hold it in place so that it doesn't drop out when you open the lid. Then very carefully press it down from the underside with a spudger after you have opened the lid fully and have your hand under it to catch the trackpad so that it doesn't suddenly drop.

dgatwood -

Pro tip: During reassembly, put the plastic backing from the battery down on top of your display, put the trackpad upside-down on top of that, and slowly close the top case down onto it, working the cable through the slot. Then, when it is almost fully closed, use the plastic backing to maneuver the trackpad into position so that the pins line up.

dgatwood -

Schritt 22

Benutze einen T3 Torx Schraubendreher, um die beiden 1,9 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Abdeckhalterung des Tastatursteckers befestigt ist.
Entferne die Halterung.

I’m just curious - why did the entire logic board have to come out in order the replace the battery? It seems like after the trackpad you could skip to battery removal. Is it to protect the board? Thanks!

Todd Wood - 05/03/20

I am also wondering if it is necessary to remove the logic board. I’m just looking to remove a leaking battery from my macbook pro and safely discard of it while I get a replacement as it is releasing some chemical smell which I assume must NOT be good for one’s health.

Jean Lescure - 10/03/20

Sehr geehrtes IFIXIT Team, bitte um Info warum für den Ausbau des Akkus auch das Bord ausgebaut werden muss? Danke für Ihre Antwort!

Josef Lix - 13/03/20

As far as I can tell there is a part of the battery that is below the logic board. It’s the thin black stripes next to the battery pcb on either side. You can see it after the logic board is removed on step 50.

Bhav - 17/04/20

Absolutely correct. No way to skip the steps.

Cristian Caprar -

Please, elaborate.

Because the one small cable to the right is the battery data cable, it's been disconnected in step 10 and then presumably comes out with the battery (there's no indication it is glued nor instructions to unglue it by heating it and it doesn't look like it is UNDER the logic board) and the only cable that is UNDER the logic board is the keyboard cable, whose connector gets disconnected in next step but needs not being further removed.

I can't imagine all these risky actions (both when disassembling and reassembling are actually needed!

Luca Ciminelli -

Actually, a T4 Torx driver works perfectly.

DonPanchito - 06/06/20

T3 stripped mine, should have used T4. Screw Extracting Pliers to the rescue.

Peter Eltgroth - 16/01/21

Hands up everyone that’s never buying an apple product again?

Nathan Skene - 12/02/21

I can confirm that the logic board removal is mandatory, because two battery connection cords are under the logic board and cannot be removed otherwise. Even if that would be possible by cutting them, it is not possible to install the new battery anyway.

Cristian Caprar -

Thanks for your hands-on feedback Cristian.

Would you please elaborate? Which "two battery connection cords?" What I see in step 50 are the keyboard cable (which needs not removing) and the battery board cable, whose connector has already been disconnected (step 10) and comes out with the battery, because new battery shows the cable (and the board).

Luca Ciminelli -

Schritt 23

Trenne die Tastatur mit deinem Spudger ab, indem du ihren Stecker gerade vom Logic Board hochhebelst.

Again, make sure you pry from underneath, not only the metal plate. Goes off easily and then it also gets back easily when putting it back.

Cristian Caprar -

Don't do what I did :( When I reinstalled the logic board and bolted down everything, I realized I didn't pull keyboard cable connector through and was stuck underneath the board. Rather than taking the time to disconnect all the cables and unbolt everything to carefully pull the cable back through, I unbolted only left side and attempted to pull cable through using tweezers. I tore the cable which is very fragile. This ultimately disabled my keyboard. Hopefully, people will read this and will not happen to anyone. If it does, the cable can easily be purchase from Amazon for $6. The cable that worked for me is part #821-00612-04.

Edward Pascua -

Schritt 24

Benutze einen T3 Torx Schraubendreher, um die beiden 3,5 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Abdeckung über dem Flachbandkabel der Displayplatine befestigt ist.
Entferne die Abdeckung über dem Flachbandkabel der Displayplatine.

Schritt 25

Benutze einen T3 Torx Schraubendreher, um die beiden 1,7 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Halterung für den Kabelstecker der Displayplatine befestigt ist.
Entferne die Halterung vom Kabelstecker der Displayplatine.

This appears to be a T4 not a T3

Rich Murfitt - 29/08/19

They are definitely T3 ;) But not all driver kits are created equal. If your T4 works better for you, go with that.

Jeff Suovanen - 30/08/19

I concur the the T3 didn’t work, T4 worked great.

David Balogh - 01/07/20

't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

jinwoo KIM - 23/07/20

The bracket of the display board connector in my case is glued. So wasnt able to remove it.

Neil Robinson - 10/12/20

I also found a T3 to be too small and T4 too large. I skipped this step and was able to complete the installation by using this connector (still secured by the screws I couldn’t take out) as a hinge to carefully lift the logic board up when needed. I ended up not requiring any of the adhesive remover liquid to remove the battery; just heat from a hairdryer and elbow grease to slide the cards under each cell. Laptop working perfectly again now with this new battery.

Martin -

I used my T3 on my 2017 but I had to press a bit harder to get these to unscrew.

tomasponce -

Schritt 26

Heble das Flachbandkabel der Displayplatine gerade mit einem Spudger nach oben, um es abzulösen.

When putting it back, I did not notice any “click”, but it was definitely secured in place. Just do not overpress it expecting the “click”. It fits back easily.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 27

Benutze einen T3 Torx Schraubendreher, um die beiden 2 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen jede Scharnierabdeckung befestigt ist (insgesamt vier Schrauben).

Schritt 28

Entferne die beiden Scharnierabdeckungen.

My hinge covers seemed to be "aged" and cracked upon reinstall, so do not over-tighten upon reinstall. Was not detrimental overall.

Jay - 27/08/22

Mine were aged and cracked, too.

Richard Schletty -

Schritt 29

Benutze einen T3 Torx Schraubendreher, um die beiden 2,4 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Abdeckhalterung für die Kabelstecker der Touch ID und der Kopfhörerbuchse befestigt sind.
Entferne die Halterung.

Again, a T4 worked here, not T3.

David Balogh - 01/07/20

't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

jinwoo KIM - 23/07/20

it’s a T4, not T3. Correct this mistake.

erwancompes - 25/10/20

T3 worked for me. MBP 2016.

Gustavo Guida - 22/11/20

I only had the bottom screw of this pair to remove. The other is missing,

Jonathan B -

The top screw of the cover bracket screws into a larger bottom screw. You need to keep that bottom one separate from the others as it is the only one that has a hole for the top screw.

Bob Donovan -

Thank you Bob Donovan! I got already confused

Dennis Doerrich -

Schritt 30

Trenne das Kopfhörerkabel, indem du seinen Stecker gerade vom Logic Board hochhebelst.

Be very careful with this connector, pry from the bottom of the body, not from the side of the fan, as there is the next connector under it. Just be gentle and patient. Lifting it up to about 100 degrees is safe.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 31

Trenne den Sensor der Einschalttaste und der Touch ID, indem du seinen Stecker gerade vom Logic Board hochhebelst.

Pry this from the fan side (right side of the body) and be VERY careful, the cable is extremely thin. Lift it up gently under the previous cable. When putting it back, just work gently, it will snap easily into place if positioned correctly. Do not force it back.

Cristian Caprar - 09/10/21

Schritt 32

Benutze einen T3 Torx Schraubendreher, um die 1,3 mm Schraube zu entfernen, mit der die Halterung für den Stecker des Touch Bar Digitalisierers befestigt ist.

Screw was stipped. I had to cut a flathead slot in the head with a Dremel cutting disk. It then came out OK.

Nick Rhind -

Schritt 33

Schiebe die Halterung mit einer Pinzette zur Seitenkante des MacBook Pro, bis sie aus der geschlitzten Haltelasche auf dem Logic Board heraus ist.
Entferne die Halterung.

When replacing the bracket make sure to loop it through the metal flange so it stays secure.

Daniel Moravec -

Lift it gently on the left, 10 degrees, then slide it to the right so that it is freed from the metal strip holding it from under the logic board. It will be obvious how to put it back once you have it out, it has a small cut on the right that has to go first in the metal strip from under the board, then let the left side down.

Cristian Caprar -

Who would have thought that reversing this step would be the hardest part of the process? Man, that's hard to hook. :-D

dgatwood -

Schritt 34

Trenne das Kabel des Touch Bar Digitalisierers, indem du es gerade vom Logic Board hochhebelst.

Schritt 35

Benutze einen T3 Torx Schraubendreher, um die beiden 1,9 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Halterung des Touch Bar Displaykabelsteckers befestigt ist.
Entferne die Halterung.

It’s T4, not T3.

erwancompes - 25/10/20

Completely stripped the screws on this one - T3 seemed too small, but T4 was too big.. Any way to get replacement screws for this step?

Benjamin Schemmel - 21/12/20

T4 worked better for me than the T3. I would suggest trying both lightly as the T3 might strip the screw for you. be careful here… T3 almost stripped the screw.

Hung Nguyen - 23/01/21

T3 from the kit I bought here works fine for all the steps where they call for T3. So far!

rileybk - 25/01/21

T3 from the ifixit kit works fine for me

Nathan Skene - 13/02/21

I used my T3 on my 2017 but I had to press a bit harder to get these to unscrew.

tomasponce -

It is a very tight T3 - I stripped the head on one of these screws so be very careful here. (T4 wouldn't fit) I think this screw was welded in!

Tim Lightfoot -

Schritt 36

Trenne das Touch Bar Displaykabel, indem du seinen Stecker gerade vom Logic Board hochhebelst.

100 degrees lift is safe

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 37

Benutze einen T3 Torx Schraubendreher, um die vier 1,3 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Abdeckungen des Thunderbolt-Flachbandkabels befestigt sind:
Zwei Schrauben links
Zwei weitere Schrauben rechts

Amazingly, the top right screw here was not a T3 at all but a T4.

tomputnam7 - 09/02/20

Top screw head seems to be stripped. Tried various other sizes to no avail.

Les Hartzman - 07/09/20

Top screw stripped for me. Stuck here. Can’t progress.

Jason Sherron - 09/10/20

Noticed the screws of left bracket of the thunderbolt connector didnt tighten into place (after it goes in and tightens it freely rotates). The right one did. Although both are scecured and working.

Neil Robinson - 10/12/20

When reassembling you need to push down snug to make sure the thunderbolt ports work.

Michael Stelzner - 18/01/21

I stripped the same screw here too, but I was able to very gently fold the connector up (being extremely careful to not damage the connector or the board

Kris -

Schritt 38

Trenne das linksseitige Thunderbolt-Kabel, indem du es gerade vom Logic Board hochhebelst.
Heble von der Innenkante her, direkt beim Lüfter.
Schiebe den Flachbandkabelstecker vorsichtig zur Seite, damit er beim Ausbau des Logic Boards nicht im Weg ist.

Pry on the middle of the connector, not the sides, as it is pretty long. Be careful to position it correctly when putting it back and do not force it back.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 39

Wiederhole diesen Vorgang, um den Thunderbolt-Kabelstecker auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite zu trennen.
Schiebe den Flachbandkabelstecker vorsichtig zur Seite, damit genug Platz da ist, um das Logic Board zu entfernen, ohne dass es hängen bleibt.

One speaker had some adhesive. Careful prying!

Dylan James - 29/08/20

Schritt 40

Trenne die beiden Lautsprecherstecker, indem du das flache Ende deines Spudgers bei ihren Steckern unter jedes Kabel schiebst.
Verdrehe den Spudger leicht, um beide Lautsprecher zu trennen.

BE VERY CAREFULL WITH THE SMALLER SPEAKER CONNECTOR!

The instructions say “TWIST”… DO NOT &&^&^$^ TWIST IT!!!

I broke the connector off the PCB.. now the left speaker is gone forever!

robert - 14/09/20

DO NOT TWIST

The connectors are very delicate, you must use the spudger as a lever to lift the cable.

May be the worst part of the whole procedure

Paolo Zangheri - 11/11/20

Both of the connector cables were secured with adhesive for me. Had to take my time and work gently to loosen.

Alfred Haas - 27/11/20

Which ended up screwing me when reinstalling. The adhesive made it really tough to slide connector in. I ended up breaking the socket connection to board. No more left speaker!!! Argh!

Alfred Haas - 28/11/20

I broke off the left speaker connector. I wonder if I can solder it back on. Anyone know??

Michael Stelzner - 18/01/21

When putting these back, these seem to just be pushed down from above, rather than slotting in from the back

Nathan Skene - 27/02/21

Add me to the Broken Connector club ?. No right speaker for me. Have to think how I can soldier some pins on to fix the connector, or just leave it alone so I don’t make it worse. I should have read thru the instructions and all the comments. Oh well. Shoulda wouldas

Robert Lee - 13/03/21

By far the most delicate step. I suggest SLOWLY peeling away the adhesive until gone, then CAREFULLY pull the cable away from the connector.

The connector is NOT secured well, and you WILL break it off if you don’t proceed with extreme patience in this step. The cable pulls toward the sky. I held the connector down while I gently lifted the cable.

Daniel Moravec -

Very easy to snap back into place if you didn’t muck up the connector while removing it. Just finger press directly from the top and they snap right into place.

Daniel Moravec -

I used tweezers to carefully hold the sides of the connector as I slowly worked the cable out. Work under the adhesive by rocking the spudger forward and backward (not twisting). As you work toward the connector, gently pull the spudger out every so often and slide back under the cable till you eventually reach the connector. If you do it this way, have steady hands and patience! A magnifying glass helps too.

Chris Hiepler -

I heated a little bit the area and then used a spludger to keep the entire socket + connector in place, then SLOWLY and GENTLY introduced a spludger from the top under the cable to break the adhesive. Once the cable was free from the adhesive (3-5 degrees lift, not more!), then I used a spludger to keep the socket in place (it is a U shape with the bottom near the battery cell, I introduced another spludger under the cable from the opposite direction (from UP of the body if the battery is DOWN) and then pried UP the connector. It does not slide, it just pops out of the socket. Putting it back is very easy, just press it gently down and it will get in the socket with a small click sound.

Same on the other connector.

DO NOT rush the part where the cable is freed from the adhesive, that makes the operation much safer and simpler!

Cristian Caprar -

You update your guide_:

_{Use the hairdryer to loosen the adhesive for both of the speaker connections, as this will prevent undue stress of the connector and prevent it from snapping the cable or breaking the connector.}

wayne -

I used Dental floss threaded under and around the speaker cable to cut through the adhesive (really easy) and then one spudger on the circuit board and another to lift the connector out of the socket. Took me a while to workout what to do and the comments above really helped.

Robert Brace -

Mint flavor or just regular?

Tim -

哈哈哈哈，我直接把整个底座给撬下来了，这些两个扬声器彻底报废，哈哈哈哈

DpX -

I use a blow dryer to heat it up and a thin string/floss to cut the glue. It worked well.

Volvo Truck -

Anybody have a solution on how to resolder this connector now that mine no longer works?

Chris Champeau -

Schritt 41

Löse das Klebeband ab, das eventuell den Anschluss des Mikrofonkabelsteckers bedeckt.

Again I kept the entire socket in place while peeling up.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 42

Öffne den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Stecker des Mikrofonkabels, indem du ihn gerade vom Logic Board hochhebelst.

I broke off the locking tab upon reinstall, so be careful. Hoping the tape helps hold things together!

Jay -

Schritt 43

Trenne das Mikrofon, indem du sein Kabel in Richtung Lüfter ziehst, bis es sich aus seinem Anschluss löst.
Ziehe wenn möglich an dem Klebeband, das am Kabel befestigt ist, statt am Kabel selbst, um das Risiko einer Beschädigung zu verringern.

Be VERY careful fishing that circuit/cable back into the socket. I was using regular tweezers that have a sharp edge. It scratched the circuit under the black plastic sleeve (which is thin). That cable kills your internal mic (which Ifixit does sell a replacement for).

Jerod Waggoner - 09/06/20

Schritt 44

Benutze einen T5 Torx Schraubendreher, um die einzelne 2,9 mm Schraube zu entfernen, mit der das Antennen-Kabelbündel befestigt ist.

might be easier to do 45 first if the cables are getting too much in the way of the screw

Kris -

Schritt 45

Löse alle drei Antennenkabel ab, indem du jedes einzelne gerade aus seinem Anschluss hochhebelst.
Schiebe eine Pinzette oder das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter jedes Kabel bis fast zum Anschluss und verdrehe das Werkzeug dann leicht, um das Kabel abzulösen.
Um die Kabel beim Zusammenbau wieder zu verbinden, muss der Stecker direkt über seinem Anschluss positioniert und dann heruntergedrückt werden, bis er einrastet.

That is the hardest part. Can’t get one of the three plugs back into position.

Stefan Scholtz - 30/04/20

Stefan is right. Mine proved impossible and I think I smashed (yes, smashed) the “sockets” they are supposed to “snap” back into (they didn’t for me). For now, they are taped down (and wifi works well), but looking into soldering these if it won’t ruin the connection.

Jerod Waggoner - 09/06/20

Use microscope and fine tweezers.

Jo Luyckx - 13/09/20

Do not force them. they snap on with little effort when they are aligned just right. Be patient.

J D - 28/09/20

Takes quite a bit of realigntment repositioning to place these back.

Neil Robinson - 10/12/20

These are VERY tricky to reconnect. ADVICE: Push down on these at and angle and then snap them in and slowly rotate them to get them to stick. It took me FOREVER to figure this out.

Michael Stelzner - 18/01/21

I had no problem getting these on. The trick is to come from just above the connector and pull back on the cable a little bit at the same time. A fully stretched cable will overshoot the connector so that’s why I pulled it back. I used the black spudger to snap it in place. Everything seems fine. There definitely is a slight snap.

Daniel Moravec -

I always worked from the cable towards the connector to pry it up, and then when putting it back, it can seem tricky, but I used to push the connector back a little (towards the cable side) before trying to gently press it down. This seems to align it better to the socket. DO NOT force it, but it needs a little force to hear the “click” if it connects properly.

Correct positioning before pressing down is the key here and it can get very frustrating, so be patient. A microscope /optical zoom would help.

Also, I advise to start with the longest cable, the one you disconnect first, as it is easier to maneuvre, to get a feeling of how the connector is positioned correctly. The move to the shorter cables.

Cristian Caprar -

After a frustrating 20 minutes, I tried with the longest one as suggested. Made a re-affirming click. The other two were a wresting match and just eased into place when it happened.

This was the hardest part of the entire process for me. I'd say I probably spent an hour on these. Have patience.

Jay - 27/08/22

I think it would help if there was a close-up photo directly above the connectors so you can see how much of the solder on the board is visible. That would help with the positioning of the plug.

tomasponce -

Schritt 46

Entferne folgende zehn Schrauben, mit denen die Logic Board Einheit befestigt ist:
Zwei 2,8 mm T3 Torx Schrauben
Fünf 2,9 mm T5 Torx Schrauben
Eine 3,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube
Eine 3,9 mm T8 Torx Schraube
Eine 3,8 mm T8 Torx Schraube
Setze diese Schrauben beim Wiederzusammenbau nur lose ein. Richte die Platine so aus, dass alle Stecker passen, und ziehe dann die Schrauben fest.

I needed a T9 for the green 3.9 mm “T8” Torx screw

Nicholas Waller - 14/02/20

My 3.9mm upper left screw (green) is T8 Torx, while the upper right 3.8mm (blue) screw is a T9 Torx. Note that both are not included in the kit sold by iFixit for this repair @jeffsu

Alessandro Di Clemente - 12/09/20

EDIT: actually the T8 is included in the kit description but was not inside the one I got

Alessandro Di Clemente - 12/09/20

I had 4 bits in my driver set that I got. One was the T8 that others seemed to have been missing. Maybe they realized this and added to the new kits.

Scott Shore - 31/01/21

No T8 in my kit. Now I have a half disassembled macbook pro I can’t finish. Sweet.

Jamie Wilkinson - 29/04/21

On my A1707, the Green and Blue are T10 (although T8 and T9 do ‘fit’ but with slack).

Shawn Marston -

Don’t confuse the 3.9 torx8 (green) with the 3.8 torx8 (blue): the green one has a tapped hole for one of the two torx3 of step 29.

Robert Cailliau -

I have now discovered that an apple technician cross threaded one of the 2.9mm screws and lost another screw earlier -_-.

Ben Gove - 07/02/22

Are these T8 screws security versions? If not, why does iFixit include a TR8 security driver in the kit?

matt -

Reinstalling Note: I learned the hardway - Count (12 by my method) the number of connectors:
5 on the right edge.
4 on the left edge (I count 2 at the very top left, on under the other).
2 on the bottom edge near the center (NOTE: if you change a keyboard you will need the keyboard ribbon connector from the old case/keyboard).
1 cluster for antenna (3 wires & 1 ground screw)

david -

Schritt 47

Löse die beiden Vibrationsdämpferstreifen aus Gummi von den Lüftern ab, entferne sie aber nicht.
Falls nötig, kannst du sie mithilfe eines iOpeners, eines Föns oder einer Heißluftpistole leicht erwärmen, um den Kleber aufzuweichen, damit sich die Gummidämpfer leichter ablösen lassen.

Only needs to be lifted from the fan, not from the heat pipe, and gently. If the rubber “end connector” comes out from underneath the heap pipe, do not worry, it can be easily positioned back in place when the logic board is out! Do not spend time trying to push it back now.

Cristian Caprar -

The damping strips came off completely. May try electricians tape.

Spot -

Schritt 48

Die Logic Board Einheit sitzt sehr fest, aber wenn du einen Spudger unter die linke Kante setzt und leicht anhebst, erleichtert das den Ausbau.
Du solltest beim Ausbau des Logic Boards keinen Widerstand spüren. Kontrolliere sorgfältig alle Kabel und halte sie wenn nötig zur Seite, damit sie sich nicht am Logic Board verfangen.
Entferne das Logic Board, indem du es von der linken Seite her anhebst.

A headcount for all the connectors that need to be exposed when reassembling would be really useful here. I count 15. If you have less you’ve missed something.

Dom - 08/02/21

This connection is VERY easy to forget when you reassemble. If you go to startup your computer and you see the battery icon but the computer will not start with the power button, this is the connection you missed when reassembly. Drove me nuts until I figured that one out!

deancuebas - 26/03/21

Absolutely DO NOT lift the board by the cables as the picture might lead you to think!

Also, when lifting up the board, if you feel any resistence, make sure that:

- all the screws were removed!!

- move cables and connectors gently away in the area where you are lifting, they can easily catch the logic board and it feels immediately resisting the lift

After lifting the left side to be able to keep it between your fingers, work toward the middle and then the right, moving the connectors and cables away to free the board for lifting.

Cristian Caprar -

Schritt 49

Die Logic Board Einheit wird folgendermaßen wieder eingebaut:
Kontrolliere die Ausrichtung der Vibrationsdämpfer aus Gummi und korrigiere sie wenn nötig.
Führe das Antennen-Kabelbündel durch den Spalt zwischen Logic Board und Kühlkörper, und achte darauf, dass es korrekt ausgerichtet ist, wenn du das Logic Board wieder einsetzt.
Achte darauf, dass beim Einsetzen des Logic Boards keine Kabel unter dem Logic Board eingeklemmt werden. Kontrolliere jeden markierten Bereich sorgfältig.

Start from the right, position it down in place and make sure the cables are not under the board, then get the antenna cables from beneath with tweezers, then work to the left, paying attention to get the cables away so the board can go down in place.

Cristian Caprar -

MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Logic Board Einheit tauschen

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

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