MacBook Pro 17" Unibody AirPort Board Replacement

Geschrieben von: Brett Hartt
  • Kommentare: 41
MacBook Pro 17" Unibody AirPort Board Replacement

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Einleitung

Having issues with wireless connectivity? The problem could lie inside the AirPort Board.

This guide will show you how to replace the AirPort card installed in the display frame of the Early 2009 and Mid 2009 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody. This guide does not apply to the Mid 2010 and Late 2011 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody. The AirPort card in the later models is mounted beside the optical drive.

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    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

    mysterioes -

    Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.

    Kyle Spadaro -

    Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

    The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

    I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

    - carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

    - remove the assembly and flip it over

    - again carefully remove the shielding tape

    - undo 3 tiny screws

    - gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

    - reverse process with replacement card.

    image can be found here:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...

    Remon -

    It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

    Human -

    3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

    -I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

    2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

    1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

    These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

    scottbernardis -

    I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.

    Grace Morris -

    This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!

    Steve Adamczyk -

    Be sure to use Loctite on the screws when re-attaching the bottom of the computer. The screws can and will fall out once they have been removed for repairs if you do not put Loctite on them when you reuse them. Otherwise, purchase new screws before repairing the computer as the new screws come with Loctite material on them. (I have personal experience with this problem.)

    johnpartridge -

    Be sure NOT to Buy this Battery from iFixit. I bought it from eustore.ifixit.com and the Condition of Battery is : Service Battery ,

    from the &&^&^$^ first day.

    Till today my battery Cycle Count is: 80.

    I’ve tried everything as: Battery Calibration, resetting the SMC, PRAM, reinstalling the battery,

    and Service Battery warning still there.

    Just DO NOT BUY crappy, trash from here.

    I have very bad experience.

    Doruntin Koci -

    Hi Doruntin,

    we’re more than sorry to hear about your bad experience.

    I’ll inform our customer service team who’ll reach out to you and offer either a replacement or reimbursement.

    If ever you’d need assistance again, please feel free to directly write to eustore@ifixit.com, as comments are not regularly checked for service issues.

    I’m confident that we’ll find the solution that suits you best!

    Sandra Hiller -

    PLEASE OBSERVE: The image of the left speaker used is NOT for a 2011 model. A 17inch MacBook Pro A1297 - LEFT SPEAKER + MICROPHONE - 2011 has IDENTIFYING NUMBER: Apple Part #:922-9821, 922-9822. And its COMPATIBILITY: 17 inch MacBook Pro Unibody A1297 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.2 i7 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.3 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.4 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.5 i7

    kenneth krabat -

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    • Wedge your fingers between the lower case and the vent, and lift upward to release the two clips holding the lower case to the upper case.

    • During reassembly, carefully align the lower case and then press it firmly until both clips engage.

    • Remove the lower case.

    I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

    d68ef792 -

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    • Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits.

    • If present, grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device. For Late-2011 models the battery connector will not have a tab and is simply a plug that inserts straight down into the motherboard--to remove pry the plug straight up.

    • If the plastic tab is missing, use a spudger to pry the connector up from its socket.

    • Pull the tab parallel to the face of the logic board.

    This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.

    yary hluchan -

    Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.

    Tobias Hahn -

    As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.

    bhodges2 -

    Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.

    Stephen -

    The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)

    It has a tab which I pulled straight up

    The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.

    Peter Grierson -

    * There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.

    ** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)

    Pingumann -

    Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.

    Dave -

    I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...

    jmueller -

    I just put an SSD in a model #A1297 - MC226LL/A and the battery connector had to be removed by pulling it parallel to and away from the logic board — in other words, not up. I was definitely a bit confused when I tried to pull it up.

    Doug Hogg -

    With some dexterity and carefulness, the MagSafe could be removed from its place without the need to remove the whole logic board!

    Phil Boy -

    Same here, I used a head-band light to see it and got it done without removing anything but the battery connection, the charging port and the display data cable. Then I had to do it again because amazone sent me the wrong charging port, the board has different width between screw holes, and on closer look, different components soldered on, also. AND, one is labeled 2008, the other 2009… make sure you get the correct one, the other ( “wrong”? ) might work, but I’m not risking it! So why does the 2008 fit in my 17” macbook pro(5,2) mid-2009 and the one labeled 2009 does not fit ? It is what it is…

    Tom Seaman -

    The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to  Mercedes-Benz tri-star)

    It has a tab which I pulled straight up

    The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.

    Peter Grierson -

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    • Before disconnecting the camera cable, a small plastic retainer stuck to the logic board must first be moved out of the way. In late-2011 models you can skip this step because there is not a plastic retainer on the camera cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the small plastic cable retainer away from the camera cable socket for enough clearance to remove the camera cable.

    I think I should have a photo of the plastic retainer as there may be more people like me who were afraid to take the part.

    Cassio Machado -

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    • Pull the camera cable toward the optical drive opening to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • The camera cable socket is very fragile. Do not apply any upward force to this socket, as it may break off the logic board. Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

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    • Carefully pull the Bluetooth cable toward the fans to disconnect it from the Bluetooth board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the optical drive.

    These pictures are not whats on my a1297. For example the Bluetooth connector is not set up like this. Its actually set up like the Late 2011 A1286. Not sure which model this is.

    Sean Love -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the thin plastic cover off the top and sides of the Bluetooth board housing. For late-2011 models check out the other picture because the connector location is in a totally different location.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna connector up and off its socket on the Bluetooth board.

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    • If present, remove the small piece of EMI foam near the Bluetooth board.

    • De-route the camera cable from the slot molded into the Bluetooth board housing.

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    • Remove the two 7.1 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable retainer to the upper case.

    • Remove the camera cable retainer from the upper case.

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    • Lift the black plastic flap attached to the display data cable retainer and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the MacBook.

    • Pull the display data cable out of its socket.

    • The display data cable socket is very fragile. Do not lift the connector upward as you disconnect it, as the socket may break off the logic board. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

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    • Remove the two 7.1 mm Phillips screws securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

    • Remove the display data cable retainer.

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    • Remove the two outer 6.8 mm T6 Torx screws from each of the two display brackets (four screws total).

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching each display bracket to the upper case to aid in future steps.

    I viewed a YouTube video showing this process. There was a warning about the stripping of the Torx screws being common on this mid-2009 model MBP. Is that something you have come ever across? It's the only thing holding me back from attempting this myself. TY in advance!

    s0mvh -

    Taking those hinge screws out can be difficult (they are fat, and they resist turning). In my first attempt I destroyed the Torx screwdriver bit (soft metal, I discovered, so the bit twisted into a corkscrew before it snapped off). After buying the ifixit screwdriver set I found that the driver bits were tough enough, but the screws still would not budge! So, I used a small mole-grip wrench to hold the metal part of the screwdriver, and GENTLY turned until I felt the screw give way with a click. Luckily, the threads did not strip. However, if you find that even with that extra torque from the wrench, it is still resisting in a big way, go one more step and try a very tiny drop of thread-loosening fluid on it. (That last suggestion, however, is risky, so be careful.... do not let any fluid get anywhere except the screw, and then give it time to work).

    RichardL -

    What's the url to the youtube video you mentioned?

    David Fear -

    Too late. I should have read the comments first but I was rushing. I just stripped two of them. They are in there super tight.

    Sean Love -

    I just did this now (11:21 am, Sept 18 2014) A tip for removing glass bezel on the frame if you don't have a heat gun. I used a very sharp but super thin razor (the one for shaving) and slice the adhesive. Be careful not to hit the lcd. After slicing all around, get any thin plastic card and slide it all around the bezel until the glass comes off. I have a mid 09 macbook pro 17" that had a broken lcd and a 2010 macbook pro i7 17" that had a logic board problem but good lcd. Both A1297. I did it twice using my method.

    J A N Marquez -

    Thanks! This made my display so much easier ...and I just love my new ifixit toolkit. Now... what else can I fix! lol Much appreciated!

    Leshell -

    Be super careful with this part. I just stripped two of these t6 screws and have two more that will not budge. Now I have to figure out how to get them out. How did these get so tight? What a headache.

    Sean Love -

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    • Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T6 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

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    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

    • During reassembly, fit the display into place and install the display bracket Torx screws, then close the lid and lay the laptop upside-down to check the alignment of the screen to the body. If necessary, loosen the screws and realign the display before tightening.

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    • Grab the clutch cover as shown and slide it toward the right side of the display.

    • It should move about 1/4" and stop. Don't force it beyond this point.

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    • Lifting the left edge of the clutch cover, gently rock it back and forth on its long axis while pulling it away from the display.

    • Remove the clutch cover from the display, minding any cables that may get caught.

    First, note that the clutch cover has a somewhat “D” shape. Be sure to orient it so that the curved face is towards the screen and the flat face with the beveled corner is away from it. It’s not very obvious in the picture.

    I had to use this guide for a 15” MBP because I didn’t see one for that model. I don’t know if the 17” is similar, but just in case: on the back edge of the screen (in the aluminum), there are some small indentations with slots to the left (if the screen is facing you as it is in the picture). When putting the clutch cover back on, be sure to line up the small plastic tabs in the clutch cover with those indentations so that they’ll properly slide into the slots when you slide it ¼” to the left. The plastic is fragile and easily broken.

    Brady Boothe -

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the two antenna cable connectors from the AirPort board.

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    • Remove the single 2.7 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the AirPort board bracket to the display case.

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    • Move the AirPort board bracket towards the bottom of the display case with the tip of a spudger so that it does not block the AirPort board cable.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the AirPort board cable by rocking it back and forth until it is free.

    • The AirPort board connection cable can be inserted both ways. The two sides of the connector look slightly different. However, inserting it upside down will cause a short circuit upon power on and damage the logic board and/or Airport board, so be careful to note the correct orientation.

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    • Once the cable is disconnected, lift and remove the plastic bracket from the display case.

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    • Remove the two 3.1 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the AirPort board to the display case.

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    • Lift and remove the AirPort board from the display case.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Brett Hartt

Mitglied seit: 13/04/10

125814 Reputation

6 Kommentare

Just a note for anyone looking at this guide with a MacBook Pro 17" mid 2010 model (2.6GHz) - this is the wrong guide for your laptop! Search for the MacBook Pro 15" mid 2010 Airport board replacement guide instead. The card is located on top of the optical drive rather than in the bezel - something i found out the hard way when following this ;)

Rob -

How would I know if I need to replace my airport board or wifi antenna?

james -

THIS GUIDE IS WRONG FOR MODEL 1297, which is far easier to repair.

Kevin Cahill -

HI Kevin. Do you know a URL to a good video for the 1297?

Denis Putnam -

Will replacing the wifi card on a mid-2009 macbook pro 17" make it possible to hack the OS to MacOS sierra without losing wifi?

I read that the hack would disable wifi. So, are the replacement cards different enough to resolve that issue?

jimthzz -

my macbook pro 17 early 2011 does not recognize wifi card.

i have changed wifi card and says the same. because i have a macbook pro 13 late 2011, i have test the wifi board on both mac, and only works on mbp 13. but i have changed the cable from wifi card to the main board card from the mbp13 to mbp 17, and then works.

so, i can see that what does not work from the mbp17 is the cable, not the wifi card.

is it possible to replace it?

jou tarrat -