MacBook Pro 17" Unibody rechten Lüfter tauschen

Schritt 1

Entferne die folgenden 10 Schrauben, die das Gehäuseunterteil mit dem Deckel verbinden:
Drei 13.5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

mysterioes -

Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.

Kyle Spadaro - 11/05/16

Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

- remove the assembly and flip it over

- again carefully remove the shielding tape

- undo 3 tiny screws

- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

- reverse process with replacement card.

image can be found here:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...

Remon - 28/11/14

It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

Human - 25/05/15

3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

scottbernardis - 26/10/16

I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.

Grace Morris - 26/12/16

This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!

Steve Adamczyk - 23/11/17

Be sure to use Loctite on the screws when re-attaching the bottom of the computer. The screws can and will fall out once they have been removed for repairs if you do not put Loctite on them when you reuse them. Otherwise, purchase new screws before repairing the computer as the new screws come with Loctite material on them. (I have personal experience with this problem.)

johnpartridge - 13/04/19

Be sure NOT to Buy this Battery from iFixit. I bought it from eustore.ifixit.com and the Condition of Battery is : Service Battery ,

from the &&^&^$^ first day.

Till today my battery Cycle Count is: 80.

I’ve tried everything as: Battery Calibration, resetting the SMC, PRAM, reinstalling the battery,

and Service Battery warning still there.

Just DO NOT BUY crappy, trash from here.

I have very bad experience.

Doruntin Koci - 08/10/19

Hi Doruntin,

we’re more than sorry to hear about your bad experience.

I’ll inform our customer service team who’ll reach out to you and offer either a replacement or reimbursement.

If ever you’d need assistance again, please feel free to directly write to eustore@ifixit.com, as comments are not regularly checked for service issues.

I’m confident that we’ll find the solution that suits you best!

Sandra Hiller - 11/10/19

PLEASE OBSERVE: The image of the left speaker used is NOT for a 2011 model. A 17inch MacBook Pro A1297 - LEFT SPEAKER + MICROPHONE - 2011 has IDENTIFYING NUMBER: Apple Part #:922-9821, 922-9822. And its COMPATIBILITY: 17 inch MacBook Pro Unibody A1297 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.2 i7 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.3 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.4 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.5 i7

kenneth krabat - 20/04/21

Schritt 2

Zwänge deine Finger zwischen das Gehäuseunterteil und die Lüftungsschlitze und ziehe das Unterteil nach oben, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil am Deckel befestigt ist.
Richte beim Zusammenbau das Gehäuseunterteil sorgfältig aus und drücke es fest, bis beide Clips einrasten.
Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.

I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

d68ef792 -

Schritt 3

Wenn du in der Nähe des Logic Board arbeitest, ist es immer ratsam, den Stromanschluss der Batterie zu trennen, um Kurzschlüsse zu vermeiden.
Falls vorhanden, ziehe die kleine Plastiklasche am Batteriestecker gegen die Vorderkante des Geräts. Bei Modellen von Ende 2011 hat der Stecker keine Lasche und ist einfach direkt im Motherboard eingesteckt. In diesem Fall ziehe den Stecker gerade nach oben, um ihn zu entfernen.
Falls die Plastiklasche fehlt, benütze einen Spudger, um den Stecker von seinem Sockel zu lösen.
Ziehe die Plastiklasche parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.

yary hluchan -

Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.

Tobias Hahn -

As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.

Andrew Bookholt -

There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.

bhodges2 -

Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.

Stephen -

The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)

It has a tab which I pulled straight up

The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.

Peter Grierson -

* There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.

** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)

Pingumann -

Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.

Dave -

I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...

jmueller - 22/11/14

I just put an SSD in a model #A1297 - MC226LL/A and the battery connector had to be removed by pulling it parallel to and away from the logic board — in other words, not up. I was definitely a bit confused when I tried to pull it up.

Doug Hogg - 18/09/18

With some dexterity and carefulness, the MagSafe could be removed from its place without the need to remove the whole logic board!

Phil Boy - 29/10/18

Same here, I used a head-band light to see it and got it done without removing anything but the battery connection, the charging port and the display data cable. Then I had to do it again because amazone sent me the wrong charging port, the board has different width between screw holes, and on closer look, different components soldered on, also. AND, one is labeled 2008, the other 2009… make sure you get the correct one, the other ( “wrong”? ) might work, but I’m not risking it! So why does the 2008 fit in my 17” macbook pro(5,2) mid-2009 and the one labeled 2009 does not fit ? It is what it is…

Tom Seaman -

The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)

It has a tab which I pulled straight up

The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.

Peter Grierson -

Schritt 4

Hebe den Stecker des rechten Lüfters mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
Der Stecker lässt sich leichter lösen, wenn du den Spudger der Länge nach unter den Lüfterkabeln verdrehst.
Im zweiten und dritten Bild sind der Stecker und der Anschluss des Lüfters zu sehen. Brich nicht den Plastikanschluss des Lüfters aus dem Logic Board heraus, wenn du den Stecker gerade nach oben heraushebst. Dein Logic Board kann unter Umständen etwas anders als im zweiten Bild aussehen, der Lüfteranschluss ist aber gleich.

Needs a better photo to show how the plug is able to come off the socket vertically. In particular, the underside of the plug should be shown.

Alexander Atkins -

Schritt 5

Entferne die drei 3,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen der rechte Lüfter am Logic Board befestigt ist.
Im MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Ende 2011 sind dies Torx T6 Schrauben.

The fan fixing screws on my 17-inch, Mid 2010 MacBook Pro were Torx 6, not Philips 00.

Michael -

... And the fan fixing screws on my 2009 MBP were *smaller* that the size implied by the tool requirements for this project. I initially tried a Phillips 00 screwdriver but it nearly stripped the screw head. It was necessary to switch to a Phillips 000 bit to actually get two of the screws to move.

RichardL - 13/11/14

my mid 2010 mbp had Torx 7

nielsdolieslager - 10/08/17

Mine stripped and now I can't get it out, Phillips #00 is too large

Fernando Tejeda - 25/12/18

Not a big deal maybe but I have an Early 2011 and it doesn’t have the plastic tab on the battery connector (as if it were a Late 2011) AND it uses torx screws. So if you’re planning to tear into a 2011, get a torx screwdriver—there’s a chance you might need it even if you don’t have a Late 2011

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