MacBook Unibody Model A1342 hinteres Lüftungsgitter austauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 30
MacBook Unibody Model A1342 hinteres Lüftungsgitter austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

6

Zeitaufwand

15 Minuten

Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des Lüftungsgitters aus Gussaluminium hinten am MacBook gezeigt.

  1. RdKslWbbyVKNdorc

    • Löse die acht 4 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die untere Abdeckung befestigen.

    According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.

    Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?

    Gregoire -

    They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...

    weeowey weeowey -

    The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.

    svenaustx -

    Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?

    nm -

    A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III

    weeowey weeowey -

    hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?

    thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.

    michelvanaar -

    The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!

    I hope that helps!

    gdesbrisay -

    Gregoire is right. The 8 screws are absolutely NOT identical, I’m looking at them right now, weeowey weeowey.

    John Guzman -

    I just wanted to say that, in 2020, i used these instructions to replace the magsafe socket on my A1286, mid-2012, pre-Retina MacBook Pro. The internal layout is not quite the same but close enough for me to do the job. I skipped the steps of fully disconnecting the fans and speakers because of what others had said about breaking the sockets. it just meant I had to be extremely careful when lifting up the main board so that I did not tear and break the connections. I was able to disconnect the old magsafe socket with the board flat and in situ, but there was no where near enough room to be able to aline and press home the new par home. Reluctantly i had to lever up the board. This was difficult as there is a tapped post that holds a screw in the way close to where the USB sockets are, that prevented the board lifting up and out. I had to be quite forceful to manouevre the sockets out from the edge of the case.

    Paul Burridge -

  2. 1hgTLEYwbMJScnWp
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    • Die untere Abdeckung besteht aus gummibeschichtetem Aluminium. Vermeide starkes Verbiegen der Abdeckung, da jede dauerhafte Verformung dazu führt, dass die Abdeckung nicht mehr exakt auf das Gehäuse passt.

    • Hebe die untere Abdeckung vorsichtig in der Nähe der Lüftungsöffnung an.

    • Öffne den Spalt weiter mit den Fingern, bis sich die Abdeckung von den verbleibenden Clips löst.

    • Das dritte Bild zeigt die Lage der drei Clips.

    Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?

    John Morley -

    Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.

    John Morley -

    Rather than running your fingernail down the sides to free up the retaining clips, I found that using an old credit card, inserted about 1/4”, to run along the left and right side popped those end retaining clips right off with no problem. You may need to twist the card slightly when in the middle area to help pop those off.

    bdahl385 -

  3. uRyXhccipZHxG6cV

    • Aus Gründen der Vorsicht empfehlen wir, den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine jegliche elektrische Entladungen zu vermeiden. Dieser Schritt ist optional und nicht zwingend notwendig.

    • Hebe den Akkuanschluss mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Vielleicht ist es einfacher mit den Fingernägeln auf beiden Seiten des Steckers hoch zu drücken.

    you do not need to remove the battery when replacing the hard drive or ram

    brilldoctor -

    beware not to lift the connector to close of the angle, as the picture suggest it. It might broke the angle. Attack by the middle.

    naamol -

    Not necessary?

    hikkymemo -

    Be careful of the corner of the battery cable connector when trying to pry it off with the spudge. I knocked the corner of mine. No operational impact but was not very pleasing!

    jljordanweb -

    Not necessary, but a good idea, so as to avoid any spurious charges going through the boards...

    svenaustx -

    @Svenaustx - What could happen if not removing this battery? Worst case? Not a geek on this but did change RAM on my Macbook Pro "15. Can't remember disconneting the battery back then. Shouldn't it be sufficient shutting the Mac off and ensure it has been used for an hour or so before replacing RAM?

    Allan Clarke -

    i used a metal pry and noticed some sparking when i disconnected the battery. replaced ram. now it wont turn on. did i fry it?

    Ian Lynch -

  4. QEq5LPE5LPF1bCb3

    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben auf der Seite mit dem optischen Laufwerk am hinteren Lüftungsgitter:

    • Zwei 10 mm Torx T8 Schrauben

    • Zwei 5,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    Hi, i have an issue with the screw in the middle: it is blocked and the top is now damaged... Any suggestion?

    Corrado -

    I have a problem with the two middle screws

    Harlan Shannon -

    same here...

    rekidjinwoo -

  5. BfDr4UQCZRL3EXi5

    • Entferne folgende Schrauben von der Seite mit den Anschlüssen am hinteren Lüftungsgitter:

    • Zwei 10 mm Torx T8 Schrauben

    • Zwei 5,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    The left-most philips screw in this picture does not seem to go in properly. The best I could do was use the screw with least of the blue screwlock on it and then err on the side of leaving the white plastic a bit Ioose in that location.

    QuincyMB -

    Be very careful when putting the Torx screws back as they are very easy to leverage and seems to bend the white piece at some point, making me nervous they could crack it. Don't overdo these.

    QuincyMB -

  6. WQrdxcAe2NRocHZa

    • Hebe vorsichtig das hintere Lüftungsgitter aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

    you can actually stop disassembling now and try to replace it now. after removing two t6 screws it came off pretty easily

    grze -

    Good tip, thanks! I skipped ahead to step 17 and had no problem getting the magsafe board out from under the logic board and the new one installed. Saves a lot of work disconnecting connectors indicated as Fragile!

    matt15 -

    Thank You! Saved me an hour or so of work and a lot of stress!

    15sweyandt -

    I also did Step 6, then skipped to Step 17 & 18. Once I had the display data cable off, I could remove the 2 T6 Torx screws holding the MagSafe board on and remove it. You can reach under the logic board with the point of the spudger to work the cable out of the socket. Note how you maneuver the board out of the tight space so you can maneuver it back in. When you put the new MagSafe board in, plug in the cable first. If you bend the wires so the plug approaches the socket at the appropriate angle, you can nudge it in with the pointed end of the spudger.

    hpendleton -

    Thanks a lot for this hint! You saved my macbook, when I failed to unscrew the fan because of one completely destroyed screw. Thanks to your comment I skipped steps 7-16 and went straight to replacing the magsafe board without problems. The spudger and some 3D imagination and done,

    Sebastian M -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

685540 Reputation

Ein Kommentar

Wow.....i fix it my speaker problem

NAVEEN Justin -