Magic Trackpad Klick-Feedback justieren

I could not turn the screw in Step 3. It seemed completely locked. However, I did lift up the whole switch plate which put some extra bend into the 2 thin metal "spring hinges". This restored the click-drag functionality that I was trying to fix.

Great guide! It fixed my sticky left button! Thanks. I would suggest not prying from the bottom and just go around the edges.

Take care of the strong glue, and watch out the photo of step 2 that can be confusing.

Saying that, be patient, take your time -specially in the central area of the circuit- follow the instructions and voila!. I usually do not write comments but my magic trackpad was driving me crazy (I use it a lot for photograph purposes) and now IT'S BRAND NEW! Very happy! :)

Hi guys,

I just completed this guide on a track-pad with A LOT of glue, and it worked 100%! (But I was also extremely careful!)

To all of you guys being afraid of doing this. Don't be afraid. . Consider whether you are willing to take the risk, and can afford a new trackpad if you ruin it. . If you can, and are tired of your missing physical click. Just go ahead, but please be careful when removing all that glue.

I used:

- My thumb-nail

- An old credit-card

- a small utility knife with a long blade

Gently removed the yellow glue around the circuit-board with the credit-card. . hereafter gently using the utility-knife to remove the white glue on top of the micro-chip.

Hope the best for all of you trying to do this. It is not impossible - it just needs the gentle touch :)

Kasper

N.B. otherwise i guess this fix is more or less risk-free:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXrKzzMU...

I followed the directions and mine is dead, not working at all.

Maybe I was just lucky but I have Just used the guide, without any special measure to avoid detaching chips etc, and it worked perfectly. I substituted optician's screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) for both tools, and used a flat metal paper knife at each side to GENTLY pry the thing apart, with only a little twist along the top edge needed. Screwed the little torq screw down, clipped it all back together, using the perfect result as I speak. No glue needed to reassemble, it went back together just fine. Many thanks - it was going in the bin until I thought to check this excellent site!

Thank you, Bryan Owen! I had a hard time trying to pry off the lower panel and stumbled upon Bryan's comment. Using a utility knife, I cut a small hole in the back as Bryan suggested. Voila! it exposed the little screw. I now have a perfectly-functioning Magic Trackpad.

my trackpad is busted too, now. the glue was highly adhesive and partially ripped the board out. the power still comes on but my trackpad is no longer recognized by my computer or my wife's computer. i'm !#^&@@ that i attempted this.

I carefully pried off the back and was OK. (Mine didn't have much glue plus I saw the other warnings.) The problem was that right-click (left as viewed from the back) clicked strong, right-click was weak. I ended up tightening the adjustment screw all the way.

Then I cleaned off the rubber pads on the back of the feet, shot canned air where it seemed like crud might lurk, squirted contact cleaner where it seemed right, and carefully ran the corner of a sheet of typing paper under the metal plate that appears to get distorted and snap back to produce the "click." Then I put the back, back on.

Right now everything works great.

I just fixed my left click rubber nipple which had become messed up in the pad using this guide..... it took ten seconds and I am back up and running....

thanks.

This is a good guide. It took me a few go's to get it working correctly, but I've had this annoying problem long enough that this fix is worth completing. (My left button would click and stick, not returning to top position). I've never had functionality of a 1-finger right click from the pad. I always hold CTRL + click from my old Mac days.

READ THIS BEFORE START!

Thanks for guide. I agree, first picture of step 2 is misleading. Pry along either sides of the track pad first, not the side with lettering which is referred to as the bottom(side away from the batteries). Do not pry panel more than 2-3 mm if you start from the bottom. Start at the 7 o'clock position and loosen panel in a counter clockwise direction lifting the lid no more than 1 cm. By the time you get to the 5 o'clock position the white panel should be mostly free but not fully open like the third picture in Step 2. Look underneath to make sure glue is not sticking to central chips. Then you can open lid up as shown in photo 3 of step 2.

This is a great guide and now my track works great again. Thanks.

But be warned Apple/Foxconn use some strong glue in this device.

I pried the top 1 cm of white cover up and placed a bamboo kebab stick across the whole width of the trackpad. Then slowly pulled down towards the bottom/front holding to both ends of the exposed kebab stick. After seeing how much glue is involved I would probably point a hairdryer at it for 10 min before starting next time.

This worked for me! Thanks so much. Saved me a trip to the Genius Bar!

I've done this - getting the plastic off was difficult, and I did break one of the retaining tabs despite reading the warnings. BE VERY CLEAR THAT THE RETAINING CLIPS ARE AT THE THIN END OF THE TRACKPAD THAT WILL BE NEAREST YOUR BODY WHEN USING IT - that is a lot clearer than "opposite the battery compartment". Anyway, I managed to get the thing apart without completely breaking it. The rubber feet have come unstuck, which is a bit annoying - everything else is glued so securely. Without the feet attached, my random click issue seemed to have gone away - however, you need the feet and the click to do certain operations such as dragging to select for a screen grab. Back to the drawing board.

Mine was glued as well and thank you for adding the warning. It worked like a charm and saved me from going out and buying a new one!

Thank you so much! It worked like a charm!!!

When your TrackPad does not restore after clicking, probably one of the rubbers has gone lose. Follow this guide to open your trackpad. When it's open use glue to reattach the rubber. Wait a few minutes for the glue to dry and make sure you remove traces of glue. Close the trackpad and it's working again.

Couple extra tips: after carefully prying the edges open, (and with batteries removed!), insert some plastic inserts on 3 sides to keep the edges open. Place the trackpad on top of a coffee mug of steaming hot water, so that the apple logo is down towards the coffee mug. Wait 10 minutes. It should now be easier to cut the glue and carefully remove the bottom panel. Carefully dab away any water residue.

I was fighting with my keyboard and just about gave up until I came upon your suggested fix....AAAAnnnnnnnnddd it WORKED. Thank you so much.

Worked for me. It might help to use a blow dryer to heat the trackpad a bit next time to loosen the glue a bit.

Amazing. All done in less than 10. A cutter helps a bunch.

Works, but WAY finicky to get right... I used a hair dryer to help loosen the glue. Worked best to get a wedge at the top (next to battery tube)on the right side and then another one on the left side. Kept hair dryer on, 5 or 6 inches from white plastic for a few minutes, then twisted the pry tool to open the gap a little wider, move it downward a half inch at a time. Just take your time. I think the KEY is that you do NOT need to move the adjustment screw much... at all. Like MAYBE 1/4 turn. If you watch what the adjuster DOES it becomes more obvious what you may need. When you put the white plastic back in place it is CRITICAL that you have it aligned exactly perfectly or it won't work at all. Fixed mine... and I was seriously ready to toss it. WAY happier now. Thanks for the knowledge!

MANY THANKS!! It works great and has saved me ££s on a new trackpad - they're overpriced here but invaluable for photo work. The hairdryer is a good tip but mine wasn't glued too badly. Also a pointed blade can get under the plastic grid and poke at the wiring on first starting to prise so care needs to be taken - a gradual short insert, twist the blade gently to slowly raise the plastic from the glue then in a bit further; work from both top corners towards the chip at the centre. I took extra care then, gently raising from both sides a little at a time. That said it still only takes 10mins. I drilled a 3mm hole (handholding the drill - the plastic is very thin) from the inside face of the plastic to keep the inside hole edge tidy (you can see where the centre needs to be if you hold the plastic plate up to the light). I found I needed to fine tune the adjustment after I replaced the plate so the hole is an excellent tip. Thanks to all who sorted this problem for me.

First off the lift-bar screw appears to have red loctite on it but when a screw only has two threads, it's not going to do much. My advice is to put a tiny dab of glue near the threads once you have adjusted it so as to prevent the need for future adjustment. It's a design flaw, that over time, clicking on the trackpad will unscrew that pivotal screw.

Second, the right and left click are irrelevant, there is no top or bottom. The click is determined by the click-bar at the bottom, nothing else.

Lastly, turning the screw clockwise (tightening it) will raise the lift-bar, turning the screw counter-clockwise (loosening it) will lower the click-bar mechanism (backwards from what the article suggests).

This was a really good fix!!! I had no issues. Piggybacking off of this just be very careful when removing the bottom panel. I slightly cracked mine even after taking my time. I don't have an iFIXIT tool so a flat headed screwdriver was used. My fault... but I'll live!!!

No issues for me. I used a Tekton iPhone repair tool set that included tools for prying and slowly working through the glue, My 2012 model A1339 was glued in three places, with gum about 2cm in from each of the corners adjacent to the battery compartment, and a very strong foam tape in the dead center atop the main IC. You're really trusting the solder on the IC to hold, so it's not without risk. The Tekton pry tool has a wedge section to apply steady pressure, and that's what I used. One turn of the screw and back in business.

As a side note, it would make me feel a lot better about how much Apple charges if things weren't pasted together like macaroni art.

AMAZING! An Apple Authorised place refused to acknowledge a problem when it hardly clicked... this fixed it in 60 seconds. A half turn was all that was needed. THANKS!

Piece of cake. A T6 torx did for me. No issue with the glue on the chip—I went slowly and the back came loose on my 7 year old first gen Magic Trackpad. Took 1/8 turn and it popped back together in a second. Thanks!

OMG thank you, i use this trackpad for work and i am really efficient with it and could go to using mouse again. These things are way to expensive to replace and this tip worked excellent for me to fix my left clicking from sticking. I would suggest putting your warm coffee on the back like a coaster to warm up the glue within the plastic so the adhesive lets loose.. just don't melt it lol.

Excellent guide. You have to have a nice sharp spudger to get in to start prying the baseplate. Once it starts, be patient and don't rip; just gradually pull. The screw that does the adjustment isn't a screw; it's a slug so the movement is limited a couple of millimeters and then it falls out. I also found I had to bend the metal plate (to which the screw is attached) to give it a little extra springiness. It appears that between the adjustment and the bending, my trackpad has been restored! Thanks EVER so much.

I did Robin's improved method of simply drilling precisely at the specified measurements without removing the whit plastic shield, and the screw was dead center under the drill bit. (I'm in the US and only had imperial sized bits, so used 1/8".) Worked like a charm. After drilling, I used a cutting blade to clean up the plastic that was left on the screw head.

I'm quite experienced in these things and I followed the directions very carefully but now I have to report that sadly my Trackpad is DEAD!

Thanks a lot. It worked!! I was a couple of seconds away of trashing it! As other people say, don't rip and be patient. Start from the top (never from the bottom) and then do left and right sides with a plastic tool. Do not use a screwdriver.

Hello

thank you the community ! I decided to make a little hole with a cutter.

The center of the screw is exactly at 10 mm from the center of the foot (see photo in the tuto), on the line between the centers of the two feet. I had not this information so I was two mm too far.

My hole is not very well done but it is very easy tu cut this white plastic. And i’m not often looking at the back of my trackpad

https://youtu.be/iR9U1MRo3QM?t=28 this guy applied some heat to that back before prying it open and it seems like he was able to remove the back effortlessly.

Successfully fixed my trackpad. Applying heat to the bottom before prying it open definitely helped.

Man, it is so much easier to fix stuff when you have the right tools. It took me 5 minutes to complete this fix.

I have the opposite problem: “ghost” or “phantom” clicks. My Magic Trackpad seems to have a mind of its own, and will start registering clicks or click-drag text selections, even though I’m not touching it. Has anyone else seen this behavior? Once you open it up, is there a way to make it less sensitive to user input?

well，caution！central chip.but I just found a new way to fix this , don’t have to remove the back lid, just bent the whole thing, mine was the left not clicking, so I bent the trackpad tangentially the I got a response , clicking but too weak ,then I found out that my trackpad was bent on the right side, so i bent again on that side, then it works just like magic! SO, check if your trackpad was bent or not in anyway bent it back or bent some more, don’t over bent it though……

Hi risk process this. I carefully levered at the top edge then used a very long bladed craft knife (the type with the snap off blades) to cut across the glue. My main chip didn’t actually seem to be stuck

Adjusted the click, put back together. Pressed power button. Nothing. Then the thing starts getting super hot so i pop the batteries out and take the back off again. Can’t see anything damaged or in the wrong place but something above the main chip got hot enough to melt the plastic of the back.

No harm in trying once more. (maybe). now it seems to work. very odd.

Nice guide. I had a sticking left corner button. I spryed some Deoxit Fader F5 on the bottom button and while cleaning it up the puck cover came off. So I lifted the left corner with a small jewelers screw driver. I got enough space to think about slipping the silicone cover and puck back over the switch. I put another jewelers screw driver under the bottom edge and slowly slid it towards the opposite button. I was able to release the first tab holding the bottom on without damaging it. I then replaced the silicone cover and puck over the switch and snapped down the tab. And now it works great again. Just a minute ago I did a search and found this information. Now I know there are 4 tabs along the bottom edge. I guess those years of working on car stereos and such kind of paid off. Did not know what was under there but knew to be slow and careful. Real lesson is to search and learn before you tinker. I was also very lucky.

I followed the directions. While nothing seems to have broken, the trackpad is now dead. It won’t power on. :( *sigh* Note, one thing I didn’t notice in the guide was the teeth that are on the bottom edge. a picture of that and explanation would be a good idea. The teeth that fit in the tabs can easily break off.

Wow now my trackpad works again as new one!

Thank you!

Thank you - your guide worked fine for me! :)

The left-click of my heavy-used trackpad didn’t work anymore but now it’s back in business. The art is to use force in the beginning when slicing through the adhesive in the first corner. And then you have to be patient when working down and in - centimeter for centimeter… ;)

Great guide! Here’s my variation of a trackpad clicking problem and my non-invasive fix. I noticed a little round silicone thing on my desk at the same time that clicking no longer worked. I realized that this was the silicone pusher thing that had got hung up on my desk surface and was pulled out from its hole in the track pad bottom. My fix consisted of working the thin edges of the silicone pusher back under the plastic bottom plate with a flat edged eyeglass screw driver gently pushing it under the bottom plate around the circumference of its hole. By pushing gently and in small increments (to avoid slicing the edge) the thin edge of the silicone pusher got worked back into position under the bottom plate. It took a combination of (gently!) pushing the edges and wiggling the silicone pusher to get it into a position wherein clicking steadily improved until it was like new. I know the pushers are positioned right because they wiggle loosely in their holes.

The hint to drill a 3mm hole 20,9mm from the left and 10,9mm from the bottom works great! The hole can be drilled by hand as the platic is quite soft. Takes only a few seconds!

I was just about to spend $129 on a second-generation trackpad, but I decided to give this guide a try. It took me longer than the 3-5 minutes estimated in the guide, but I now have a working unit again! One thousand thanks to the author - and to the guy who suggested drilling a hole to get to the Torx screw. I did that after I took the bottom plate off. Two minutes with a Dremel, and I’ll never have to pop the bottom off again.

Brilliant.

Guide worked perfect. The chip is siliconed down so be careful. I used a kitchen knife to gently slice the silicone free from the chip. The rest is just adhesive to the white plastic frame in the picture. Took me 5 mins.

Used the guide to open the device, turns out the rubber feet have a secondary piece inside that became loose and not centered, causing the little metal click paddle to become flush with the backing. Centered these again and it works just fine. Tip on the removal process, I used a thin zip tie from corner to corner to slowly slice through the adhesive. Thanks again!

I pried one side open slightly from the corner nearest the batteries and put in a paper clip, then worked the other side the same way and placed a paper clip in, and then worked my way across the edge alongside the battery storage. From there, the cover is also glued internally about an inch in on both sides of the circuit board, so I placed a thin screwdriver in and separated one side and then the other. After that, I placed the screwdriver between the silicone in the center and the case, NOT between the silicone and the chip, and magically the case lifted off. Lifting the lid from battery storage side first, none of the retaining tabs on the other side broke. The torx adjustment screw was tight however, must have been siliconed also to prevent movement. Got it tightened by adjusting clockwise, and cleaned the rubber covers on the bottom of the panel as well as cleaning where the covers touch the spring loaded pad with rubbing alcohol, dirtied with food and dust/dirt. And VOILA! Works perfect. Thanks.

Really awesome ! this little screw must spin along time and i was unable to click at all; 1/10 of a turn and its a revival, thanks for it ! as said in a previous comment, there is a chip glued to the cover, be very careful, don’t force, just leverage with the tool until it separate.

Please update the guide to note that if your Trackpad is not clicking to first check and make sure it still has it’s rubber feet. I went through disassembly before finding this out (and it turned out to be all I needed to do). A small mention of that first troubleshooting step could help to avoid having to take apart the device whereupon the potential to damage it is much higher.

Your sharing has kept another piece of electronic trash from the landfill/ocean. I have my afternoon back not needing to spend it going to the store possibly to find they don’t have it in stock and I have $75 in my pocket to spend on better things like helping a friend with money to fix her car. Thank you!

read entire comment before proceeding

remove batteries

warm up trackpad to soften glue - but don’t let it get hot

use small narrow razor utility knife or similar to get between white panel and body lift edge just enough to insert ifixit card or similar

you can use insert ifixit card, guitar picks, (or any thin smooth gift/membership or credit/debit card without raised/embossed characters)

insert about 1-1/8” from left side BUT NOT MORE and slide down to separate glue, keep card in place

inset about 1-1/4” from right BUT NOT MORE and slide sown to separate, keep card in place

whatever you use, keep parallel to trackpad and don’t go too deep to avoid damage

the glue is like a clear and flexible, separate it slowly to allow glue to release in its own time

as you begin to separate it you can look inside and see it separate, and you will also see the computer chip with white glue near the center

this may separate, or you may need to insert card, observe as you peel and pry

the screw has thread-lock, use force to loosen

This worked for me. I did not read the comments first, however I did warm up.

Mine was stuck in “clicked” position. Opening and closing it as described in this guide was sufficient to fix it.

Thanks!

Thanks so much for this. I did exactly as you explained this morning - and it worked. I used a Stanley knife to gently cut through the glue at the edge, and then a very, very fine screwdriver to gently prize off the top bit. It worked perfectly and now I have a working trackpad. It does take GENTLE prizing off, though, as you say. Thanks again. You just saved me having to buy a new one.

I LOVE this site!! ALWAYS very helpful. among many iPhones and laptops etc… this site has been THE most resourceful site on the internet. thank you ifixit!!

Scheint zu funktionieren :-) Danke!!

My Adjustment screw is missing altogether, Is it possible to get a replacement???

Worked like a charm on mine! Like others, I ended up needing a tiny flat head screwdriver to get under the seal at first. I also put the trackpad on a heating pad for ten minutes to let the glue warm up. Then eased the spudger in across the top of the back, then a couple opening picks down each side, then inserted old ID cards (plastic cards like flat credit cards) into those upper corners. Checked with flashlight to make sure the chip wasn’t stuck to the back, then eased it open the rest of the way. Adjusted the screw and cleaned around the foot cups with a swab and alcohol. Thanks for the guide! I should have done this years ago.

I used a 1.4mm screwdriver as I did not have a T-6 or T-7 Torx bit to adjust the tightness of the little screw