Motorola Moto X 2. Generation Akku tauschen

How do you repeat the steps in reverse such that you replace the adhesive holding the battery in place? Does a new battery come with the adhesive?

I tried it but the battery I bought (said to be genuine and almost identical to the original) just caused the green light (solid, not blinking) to come on when the phone was plugged in. It never charged or started up, so I replaced the original and luckily it still started up.

Worked for me. A lot of work to get more life out of the phone. I almost thought I'd never get all of those screws back in.

I couldn't even get the back to lift up enough to wriggle a pick/spudger behind the casing.

I'd not recommend doing this. Pulling the adhesive tabs does not remove all the adhesive and the remaining adhesive patches (at least on my Republic Wireless moto x) are strategically placed to make all the wiring under the battery come off along with it...

6 of those 18 screws were totally ruined when I just tried to screw them off. No force, the T3 torx and easy on my hand - still ruined.

And since they're in small holes, they cannot be reached or removed. Neither rubber band nor superglue worked.

Where can i buy the replacement battery?

I ripped off one of the T3 screws - make sure to press down HARD on them before torquing.

IMPORTANT info about the step 8 - the battery is glued to a flex PCB and it's glued REALLY %#*@ WELL to it. When I tried to pull it out it ripped a chunk of what I think was the NFC antenna :/ I kinda put it back, and the phone booted and worked anyway. Whoever designed it this way is a dick.

where to buy the battery.

Was the time between charges increased by doing this? Was there ANY benefit in changing the battery?

Hi sir I would to have new (moto.x2) or used one …could you advise me how get…I am from UAE Dubai…any shope thT5i could founded exalt thank you…

The guide is perfect, but the video is completely wrong. By my mistake, I used only the video to guide me and got the volume cabe ripped of. The autor (or the admin) must change or remove this video to avoid anothers mistakes.

The guide is perfect, but the video is completely wrong. By my mistake, I only used the video (after I saw it here) to guide me and got my volume cable ripped off. The autor (or the admin) must change or remove this video, to avoid anothers to make the same mistake.

The screws are T4, not T3.

T3 will engage and unscrew if it’s loose enough, but if the screw is tight, all you will do is strip it out. Ask me how I found this out. Go ahead, ask.

Success. I regret trying this. A few caveats - most of them already mentioned by someone else.

A) Rely on the pictures rather than on the video.

B) Step 2 is harder than what the video shows (need to pull the back cover hard while making sure that nothing is broken).

C) Step 7 was misleading as there are 2 places where the flat cable must be removed. I had only seen the first picture. The flat cable got damaged and I was able to make it work by inserting a small piece of material on top of the cable to make sure that the contacts worked fine. BTW, this is the flat cable used by phone buttons and it is VERY easy to break. Mine broke exactly where there is only a small piece of duct tape.

D) Loud speaker did not work and I had to bend the contacts as suggested by someone else.

E) Reassemble: the new battery was very similar to the original but it ended up being 1mm or 2mm closer to the lower part of the phone. As a result it was harder to connect this cable.

This repair was really not easy. The guide is very well written and accurate. The Torx screws were a nightmare, and would be the end of the road for most people. I ordered a battery and it came with a T3 (i think) and stripped most of the screwheads. Remember, this is a very difficult, near impossible repair because they want you to buy a new phone every year. MY recommended tool list - thin paper clip (the thicker kind doesn’t fit in the SIM eject slot), guitar picks (I used the blue spudger), a decent, insanely small jeweler’s flat head if you can’t get a reputable T3.. and after you strip some of the heads, a 5/64’s drill bit and a Rigid cordless drill. Seriously, I drilled out the screw heads that stripped and it worked fine. I DID have to fiddle with the external speaker afterwards, but all-in-all, I’m satisfied. OH! And get an Otterbox. With missing some screws now, you’ll need to squeeze this puppy back together.

I read and internalized all these comments before starting this replacement. It went very well. Thank you all.

I can see how the NFC antenna could tear because of the way the case is segmented. I used a tongue depressor to help pry the battery away from the case toward the top. It worked well.

The flex cable on my replacement battery was shaped and angled differently than the original battery. I had to fold the flex cable over the connector to orient it properly. I also had to make this connection before bringing the middle housing and front assembly together.

My replacement battery came with T3 and T5 Torx drivers, so I went to the hardware store and bought a T4. It worked like a dream. I had no issues with screws.

I added no adhesive or tape. I just pressed everything back together. It seemed to hold well. Phone, wifi, speaker, and power button all work.

I watched the video to get a better understanding how it would go, but I followed the step-by-step pictures when actually doing the procedure.

I have just completed the guide, successfully replacing the battery on my Moto X 2nd Gen. Since I ignored the video, everything went well. There was only one point of confusion: The guide should state that the replacement battery may not contain the “PULL TO REMOVE BATTERY” tabs and adhesive strips so don’t expect to be leaving the inside of the phone exactly the way you found it when you reverse your steps.

I put this off for over a year because my XT1095 was my daily driver. Bought a new phone for Christmas this year so decided to take the plunge. This was my first battery replacement attempt. Took me a little over an hour to get it apart, mostly due to a really stuck battery connector. Reassembly was a breeze. I bought an extra case back just in case I cracked my bamboo one, but I only made a small nick so I reused the old one. I couldn't have been more pleased when the phone powered on and took a charge. Overall a good experience!

Thanks for sharing. As a side note, I did manage to remove the battery without removing the original adhesive slips. Used my heat blower on low and went gently prying the battery from the sides with a long plastic spud. Weirdly, the newer battery (same model) is a bit smaller on the sides than the original, or maybe the original expanded to the sides with use? Just curious. Everything worked. Thanks again.

It is weird that what keeps it all together in the end is sticky tape. But I guess taking apart an Iphone is weirder still

Success! This is totally doable. I had my doubts, but I am very glad I read all the instructions thoroughly, read all the comments (very helpful) and watched video first. Use a magnifying glass and also zoom in on the pictures to see exactly what is going on in each step. The battery I bought from this site is the real deal. I used 3mil double sided tape to stick everything back together. I put the tape over the adhesive left on the back cover because I noticed the adhesive is strategically placed to avoid covering some of the connections and other phone components. I had a little trouble connecting the battery in step 4 (second picture) so heed the advice in comments about lining up the ribbon. I bought the T4 Torx and it worked though I’m glad I heeded the advice to push hard. My son tried to take out a few screws and I heard sounds of stripping. As for the other tools, I used a small paperclip, guitar picks, and small metal screwdriver and tweezers with electrical tape wrapped on the ends.

As far as I can tell, the switch was successful and not too hard. I did follow a YouTube video instead, pausing as I went and double checking with these instructions. My phone also only used T3 screws and since this guide suggested T4, I had to order the correct size and wait a day to get it done. It was a magnetic screwdriver, I am not sure I could have done it if the screwdriver was not magnetized, as the screws are so tiny. I did not add any additional glue or tape, but I use a cover that is snug….between that and the screws, there doesn’t seen to be any gaps or problem.

Can’t believe how simple a job this was. I think it should be rated easy! However, my training wheels were a Moto Pure (a bit more to deal with there—more adhesive, cables, tiny connections and potential problems), so if not for that perhaps I'd deem this a more difficult task. Also, everyone’s phone will be a bit different inside. Though I bought a new leather cover with adhesive ready to go, the one I removed came off with nearly all of its adhesive still attached (SO not the case with the Pure)! Same thing with the logo plate and battery housings—no need to add more adhesive; this might be because I used iFixit’s iOpener (a heat pack) which had worked great on the Moto Pure. Honestly, though, this went so well! I mean to add notes on back cover and logo plate removal in the steps, but here I'll just say that if you're patient, steady-handed and consider the parts you're dealing with (what they do, why they're there), this will be an easy process for you. Thanks for the battery and guide, iFixit!

If a qualified service person is available who does the job for a senior/ retired person like me at my door who does the job with a new battery it would be of great service. Thank you.