Motorola Moto X Rückkamera austauschen

Geschrieben von: Sam Goldheart

Kommentare: 39

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Einleitung

Stell dir vor, es gibt irgendwo ein Essen - und es postet sich nicht selbst auf Instagram. Hier wird gezeigt, wie du die Rückkamera austauschen kannst.

Werkzeuge

Schritt 1

Setze das Auswurfwerkzeug für SIM Karten in die Öffnung neben dem SIM Karten Einschub ein und drücke es hinein, um den Einschub herausspringen zu lassen.
Entferne den SIM Karten Einschub.
Wenn sich die SIM Karte nicht von selbst aus dem Einschub löst, dann kannst du sie leicht mit den Fingern entfernen.

Sim not work

Radhey Kashyap -

Schritt 2

In den folgenden Schritten wirst du die Klammern lösen, welche die Gehäuseteile zusammenhalten. Zusätzlich ist das Gehäuserückteil mit einem Klebepad gesichert. Wenn die Klammern gelöst sind, musst du zuerst einen iOpener verwenden um das Gehäuse ganz zu öffnen. Versuche nicht das Gehäuse ganz zu öffnen, bevor du den Klebstoff gelöst hast.
Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug in die Naht zwischen Gehäusevorderteil und Rückteil in der Nähe des SIM Karten Einschubs ein.
Schiebe das Werkzeug die Naht entlang in Richtung der oberen Ecke.

Schritt 3

Schiebe das Werkzeug vorsichtig um die Ecke und löse so die Klammern.

Schritt 4

Schiebe das Plastiköffnungswerkzeug entlang der Naht in der Nähe der Kopfhörerbuchse an der Oberkante des Smartphones.

Schritt 5

Hebele zwischen den Gehäuseteilen um die obere rechte Ecke .

Schritt 6

Schiebe das Werkzeug vorsichtig entlang der Seite des Smartphones mit den Tasten.
Der Kunststoff der vorderen Abdeckung ist hier dünner und die Tasten können sich bewegen; arbeite langsam, um Schäden an den Tasten oder der Frontabdeckung zu vermeiden.

Be *very* careful not to push the opening tool too deep when you go around the buttons! I accidentally broke the volume rocker ribbon by doing so, and didn't even realize it until I had completely removed the cover.

Simeon Simeonides - 30/08/15

When i removed the volume rocker i cant get it back in correctly seems to be in right but the volume up is not clicking and only works if i push it really hard any ideas?

Alf stevens - 04/12/15

Schritt 7

Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug in die Naht direkt unter der Lautstärkewippe und weite den Spalt auf.

Schritt 8

Hebele weiter bis zur unteren Ecke des Smartphones.

Schritt 9

Hebele sorgfältig von der Ecke aus weiter bis zur Kante an der USB Buchse.

Schritt 10

Setze das Werkzeug auf der anderen Seite der USB Buchse ein und schiebe es um die Ecke.

Schritt 11

Setze das Lösen der Klammern um die Ecke und entlang der Seite fort.
Wenn du dir sicher bist, dass du alle Klammern gelöst hast, dann bereite einen iOpener vor. Das wird in den beiden folgenden Schritten beschrieben.

Schritt 12

Wir empfehlen, die Mikrowelle vorher zu reinigen, damit keine unappetitliche Schmiere vom Boden auf den iOpener gelangt.
Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.
Bei Mikrowellen mit Drehteller musst du aufpassen, dass sich der iOpener frei bewegen kann. Wenn er irgendwo hängen bleibt, kann er sich überhitzen und in Brand geraten.

Schritt 13

Erwärme den iOpener dreißig Sekunden lang.
Wenn sich der iOpener während der Reparatur abkühlt, musst du ihn jeweils wieder dreißig Sekunden lang erwärmen.
Sei vorsichtig und überhitzen den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht. Dies könnte ihn aufplatzen lassen.
Fasse ihn nicht an, wenn er aufgeschwollen erscheint.
Warte immer mindestens drei Minuten, bevor du ihn erneut erwärmst.

Schritt 14

Hole den iOpener aus der Mikrowelle, fasse ihn dabei nur an einem der flachen Enden an. Vermeide die heiße Mitte.
Der iOpener ist sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig, wenn du mit ihm arbeitest. Benutze Ofenhandschuhe wenn nötig.

Schritt 15

Lege den iOpener auf das Smartphone um den Kleber, der die Rückabdeckung befestigt, aufzuweichen. Lasse den Beutel ungefähr 90 Sekunden auf dem Gerät liegen, bevor du versuchst die Abdeckung zu entfernen.

There is NO GLUE holding on the back of a Moto X with a wood back! That little fact just made the extra $50 I spent on the phone totally worthwhile.

Doug Larrick - 25/05/16

Lucky for you, I have the bamboo, and plenty of adhesive.

Kelly F - 10/08/16

Schritt 16

Beginne an der Seite mit dem SIM Karten Einschub vorsichtig die Rückabdeckung vom Gerät abzulösen.
Die Rückabdeckung ist sehr biegsam, du willst aber sicher keine der inneren Bauteile durch zu große Ungeduld beschädigen.
Löse die Rückabdeckung noch nicht ganz ab, sie ist immer noch mit dem Smartphone durch das Kabel zum Kamerablitz verbunden.
Das Kabel ist an der Seite des Smartphones mit der Einschalttaste/Lautstärkeregelung befestigt.

Step 15 seemed to be the hardest part for me. (step 25, the battery was also difficult). I am now not a fan of sticky stuff, "Mild adhesive" is definitely an understatement, IMHO, just saying I don't like sticky stuff, maybe I didn't do it right. The iOpener seemed to help a little, but not much.

CAUTION

BE CAREFUL with the NFC antenna, it says "X8 Mobile Computing System" on it. The adhesive seemed stick to the the blue stuff on the back cover more and loosen up on the bottom of the antenna, the part that sticks to the battery. So in the process of peeling the back cover the antenna started to come up and was torn at the connector strip before I realized what was happening, step 19 has a good picture of the connector strip that I'm talking about. I like using NFC once in awhile, so now my next FIX will be the antenna.

Overall instructions were GREAT, I now have a camera again. Thank you.

Patrick - 15/03/15

So you are saying that there is no problem if I don't connect the NFC antenna? I'm asking this because I bought a replacement battery that don't include the NFC antenna. I would really appreciate your help with this :)

jspsaucedo - 06/05/16

The adhesive was crazy hard on mine as well and I ended up with two small cracks on the edges of my back cover. The blue rubber piece actually separated from the back and removed it from the battery after it was open. The battery itself was also very difficult to remove (pull tab did nothing) and bent/pried the old battery out. I see no reason for all that adhesive! Other than getting the dang thing open the rest was easy. Great guide!

Darrell Jividen - 30/07/15

The adhesive holding the back very strong! In the process of removing the back, I cracked the edges of the back cover and ripped part of the NFC connector. Luckily the friend I was doing the repair for did not even know what NFC was, so she was ok with this. Take your time removing the back cover! Also, the adhesive holding the battery in place was not what I would call mild. The black tab was next to useless in removing the battery

Danny Smandych - 22/01/16

So you are saying that there is no problem if I don't connect the NFC antenna? I'm asking this because I bought a replacement battery that don't include the NFC antenna.

jspsaucedo - 06/05/16

Thank you for the guide !!! comments were really useful too. Read them.

fabajaja - 21/07/16

Schritt 17

Lege die Rückabdeckung sanft ab. Dabei soll der Verbinder am Flachbandkabel zum Blitz offen liegen, das Kabel aber nicht angespannt werden.

As I had seen in another video, my Moto X with a custom back did not have the blue sticky pad. But the back was still well-adhered in the top corners and with a strip of adhesive along the bottom. In the photo in this step you can see the only adhesive I had to deal with, which was on either side of the lens (two dark areas on the phone back) and along the bottom of the phone (dark area at the bottom of the phone back).

pdisc1 - 23/09/16

Schritt 18

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Blitzkabels mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.
Achte darauf, nur an der Klappe selbst, nicht am Verbinder zu hebeln.
Ziehe das Blitzkabel gerade aus dem Sockel.

Schritt 19

Trenne die Rückabdeckung vom Smartphone.

Schritt 20

Entferne die vier 3 mm T3 Torx Schrauben, welche die untere Antenneneinheit am Smartphone befestigen.

It turns out to be the hardest step at the moment. I ordered iOpener set, and it is almost useless. It doesn't have t3, only t5, the actual iOpener is useless. I would happily order t3 on ifixit.com, but there is no t3 in Germany, so I ordered on amazon, and it turned out to be a complete $@$*, I was not able to take a single screw out. The guide is really good, I never thought I would have an issue with a screwdriver ....

Igor Gaidaichuk - 21/09/15

These screws were definitely incompatible with my T3 bit - it was too small. T4 worked fine. Not sure if I should attribute this to an error in the guide or inconsistency in the size of my bit set; in any case it might be handy to have a T4 handy if you're not buying the iFixit screwdriver.

Christian Hinton - 09/08/16

Stripped two of four T3 screws almost instantly and with very little force. Be careful! If I can't carve a flat slot into the screw heads I guess I'll have to abort the project or deliberately crack the antenna assembly plastic or try to drill the screw heads to proceed.

pdisc1 - 23/09/16

Drilled out the heads. A bit scary, yes. I agree with another commenter here that my T3 isn't the best fit in these screws. My T3 was a pretty cheap eBay acquisition, so who knows where the blame should go. I wouldn't do this repair again. Phones should be easier to break open than this one. Too much adhesive (and as I mentioned above, mine didn't even have the blue adhesive pad) and T3 heads are super small and asking to be stripped and the two screws I did get out were way too tight. Oh, and also the potential butchering of the cover when prying loose the clips. Mine bent a bit around the headphone jack, but it smoothed back down and is not noticeable. Phone powered up and is charging now. Let's hope it was worth it.

pdisc1 - 23/09/16

On my phone, the screws were DEFINITELY T4. My advise? Try T4 first. If it's too big, nothing lost.

I nearly stripped the head on one of mine with my T3 bit because it was too small to get traction.

Larry Smith - 18/12/16

Where to buy battery...and price of battery?

D Rock - 16/01/17

I use chinese version of T3 screwdriver shipped with screen and T3/T4/T5 version of MATRIX tool set - both didnt fit for Moto X 1st gen screws. Only Bernstain T3 6-658 screwdriver fits ideally! Spent 2 days to find this tool. Be aware.

Anton Prilepsky - 14/03/17

I was able to do this step by grinding down a cheap T3 that I had laying around from another repair. Like others, I found that these screws seem larger than a T3 - stripped one and had to drill it out. Since the T3 screwdriver I had was tapered, I ground it down until the end was large enough to grip the remaining screws. Success!

Bob Flens - 01/10/17

Schritt 21

Hebele die untere Antenneneinheit mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch und löse sie vom Gerät.
Entferne die Antenneneinheit.

See that little circular rubber near the bottom right screw? This funnels the background noise to one of the noise canceling microphones. It will be destroyed when you take it off. Freaked me out when I first opened up mine.

Adrian Koch - 05/01/15

This foam "funnel" required re-forming of the center hole (also check hole in back cover foam gasket). If this sound channel gets blocked, the noise canceling will not function properly. Before re-installing the lower antenna assembly, check the oblong 2-hole gasket on the back side of the antenna assembly which covers a sound channel to the offset microphone input hole. If deformed, gently reshape it with tweezers to assure both holes are not plugged.

ktmorimoto - 05/11/16

my antenna going away after change battery

found networks but not registered , factory reset ,

please help me

NM Mahboob Mojaz (AHMN) - 24/01/17

Schritt 22

Mache hier nur weiter, wenn du die NFC-Antenne vom alten auf den neuen Akku übertragen willst.
Wenn du das nicht willst, oder wenn du die Spule beschädigst, dann wird dein Smartphone weiter funktionieren, verliert aber seine NFC-Kapazitäten.
Lege 90 Sekunden lang einen erwärmten iOpener auf die NFC-Antenne auf.

Schritt 23

Setze ein Plektrum unter eine der Ecken der NFC-Antenne ein und schiebe es langsam an der Kante entlang, wobei du den schwarzen Kleber aufschneidest.
Die schwarze Klebeschicht muss nicht unbedingt unversehrt bleiben, versuche aber doch, das Plektrum so unter den Kleber zu schieben, dass er an einem Stück bleibt.

Schritt 24

Schneide mit dem Plektrum weiter um die NFC-Antenne herum und löse den restlichen schwarzen Kleber ab.
Die NFC-Antenne sollte weiterhin normal funktionieren, wenn die Kunstofffolie nicht zerrissen ist.

Schritt 25

Entferne die NFC-Antenne vom alten Akku.
Klebe die NFC-Spule wieder mit vorgeschnittenem doppelseitigem Klebeband oder Tesa Band am Ersatzakku fest.
Bevor du die NFC-Antenne einbaust, solltest du erst den Ersatzakku einbauen und die NFC-Antenne anschließen. Du stellst damit sicher, dass die Antenne korrekt ausgerichtet ist.

Schritt 26

Entferne die fünf 3 mm T3 Torx Schrauben an der Einheit aus Kopfhörerbuchse/Lautsprecher.

These screws appear to have some yellow locktite on them. I rounded 2 of them, so take caution and make sure your screw driver fits correctly. Otherwise you will need to find a drill press to extract them.

stevengrey -

Is the glass glued to the LCD like the iPhone 5? Is it possible to repair a broken front glass without changing the whole assembly?

Alisio -

Yes and Yes. Just fixed mine.

Buy a Glass+Frame from ebay. Do steps 1-18 and 37. Then just open the bottom two torx screws, no more. They are the only ones connected to the front frame. Then heat&remove the glass, tear off the frame with pliers. Then you just need to clean the screen from residue and apply LOCA and the Glass+Frame.

Adrian Koch - 05/01/15

Yep, I rounded the bottom-left and bottom-center screws as well as my Torx driver, then slipped with the drill bit and went right through the mobo.

Coinneach - 29/01/15

All screws appear to be Torx T4.

ktmorimoto - 29/10/16

Schritt 27

Setze einen Spudger unter das Anhängsel der Einheit aus Kopfhörerbuchse/ Lautsprecher und hebele diese aus ihrem Sitz.
Entferne die Einheit aus Kopfhörerbuchse /Lautsprecher.

The microphone assembly has foam tape adhesive on it and will want to separate with the headphone jack / speaker assembly.

Jacob Jaeggli - 20/05/15

Schritt 28

Schiebe eine Spudgerspitze unter die Klammer an der Mikrofoneinheit und löse sie vom Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher.

Schritt 29

Löse den Verbinder am Kabel zur Mikrofoneinheit mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers.
Entferne die Mikrofoneinheit mit einer Pinzette.

Schritt 30

Löse den Verbinder am Flachbandkabel zur Frontkamera.
Hebe die Frontkamera mit einer Pinzette aus ihrem Sitz.

There is a thin black foam gasket (like a small washer) that is stuck to the front of this camera lens housing. On mine, the gasket was stuck off-center with the inner edge in the field of view of the lens. Using tweezers, I removed it and re-attached it on center. The image is now much sharper!

ktmorimoto - 05/11/16

Schritt 31

Entferne die letzten beiden 3 mm T3 Torx Schrauben an der Halteklammer des SIM Einschubs.

On my XT1053 Developer Edition, the Torx screws on the sim slot bracket were not T3 like all the others, they were T4. Trying to use a T3 screwdriver resulted in twisting off the tip of the screwdriver. A T4 screwdriver removed them just fine.

geekapproved - 26/01/16

Schritt 32

Entferne die Halteklammer des SIM Einschubs von der Hauptplatine.

Schritt 33

Setze das flache Ende des Spudgers unter die Hauptplatine über dem Kabel zur Tastengruppe und hebele sie aus dem Smartphone.
Achte darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verhaken.
Die Tasten können aus ihren Vertiefungen herausspringen, verliere sie nicht.

Schritt 34

Hebe die Hauptplatine vorsichtig aus dem Smartphone, drehe sie dabei weg von der Kante mit dem SIM Einschub.
Versuche noch nicht, die Platine ganz zu entfernen, sie ist immer noch durch das Displaykabel mit dem Display verbunden.

Schritt 35

Lege die Hauptplatine so hin, dass du an den Verbinder des Displaykabels gelangen kannst.
Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zum Display mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
Ziehe vorsichtig das Displaykabel aus seinem Verbinder, während du die Hauptplatine von der Displayeinheit entfernst.

When trying to put the motherboard connection back together I cannot get the flap to hold down. Anyone have a trick to help me get this connection to hold?

Dave - 08/12/14

I also struggled getting this cable back in, I actually assembled it thinking it was "in enough", only to find out I had to take it back apart and push it in further.

I found that you can lay the screen face down, with the cable upright at a 90 degree angle, then push the motherboard down onto the cable. When it goes in enough, it snaps in fairly well. If it's not in enough, it will be impossible to close the clamp.

Eric Moe - 02/04/15

There is a small black plastic piece which goes over the proximity sensor which can easily fall off. If it does, the sensor will malfunction and think that you are always close, which means you will not be able to hang up or do anything else with your phone while you are on a call and will just have to wait for the other person to hang up. I had to do more or less the whole job over again to reinsert this piece (I couldn't tell where it had fallen from and just hoped my phone would be alright with out it).

This is discussed in the thread here:

Can you disable the proximity sensor, Moto X?

You can see the black plastic over the proximity sensor in these two photos:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Whereas it is missing in this photo:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

(The sensor is on the lower left in this last photo).

Malcolm Sailor - 10/01/16

When lifting the motherboard, note that there will be some resistance near the USB port due to an adhered foam gasket/funnel which channels sound from the tiny hole in the glass to the voice mic on the back side of the motherboard. Before re-installation of the motherboard, inspect the shape and hole in this foam gasket. It should look like cylindrical standoff about 0.1 inch tall. If it is not a clear sight to the tiny hole in the motherboard, sound will not reach the voice mic. I used the point of a spudger to re-form the hole.

ktmorimoto - 05/11/16

Schritt 36

Klappe mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Anschluss des Kabels zur Rückkamera hoch.
Entferne die Rückkamera von der Hauptplatine.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Sam Goldheart

Mitglied seit: 19/10/12

457712 Reputation

4 Kommentare

This took me about an hour or so to do after I got the right tools. I ordered the iOpener "kit" and stupid me thinking that ifixit would directly link you from this page to a kit that works with it, so I didn't read that the kit comes with a T5 torx bit and not a T3. Also no tweezers. Other than that this guide works perfect. The only tricky parts really were getting the battery out; "mild adhesive" my !@#. I used the black tool to slowly pry the battery out. Be patient and the adhesive will give. The other tricky part was getting the motherboard plugged back in. I thought I had it in the first time but apparently didn't. If you get it all back together and all the phone does when you turn it on is do a 1-2sec vibrate every 10 sec or so then check the connection on the motherboard. Great guide for getting your phone DOD ready. Or any job that doesn't allow camera phones on site!

joeracke -

I was successful replacing both my non-functioning camera, a battery getting on the weak side, and a new back cover (went for one of those colorful back covers sold on eBay). The two things that tripped me up were 1) dealing with that sticky gasket between the antenna and the noise-canceling mic (Step 20), and 2) getting the cover glass to stay put on the new back cover. For 2), I ended up fashioning my own adhesive with 2-sided scotch tape.

*ALSO* You really don't need to do Step 35. Leave the motherboard plugged in, and simply remove and re-attach the camera in place.

Rad Mod - 27/05/15

I went through each step methodically and only had problems removing the top black cover in step #28. The assembly came off with the ear speaker attached to it, nonetheless was able to put it back. Just be wary that it might not be as easy as pictured.

When putting it all back together though I got an unwelcome surprise... somehow instead of getting the phone turning on and loading android, I got the symbol of the battery reading 80% and a large battery outline icon in the middle of the screen against white background with a light blue indicator reflecting visually that 80% charge. Anyone got a similar issue? I couldn't get android to start as it usually would. What gives? (Thanks for any help! :)

sfanara - 24/05/16

First I just want to say thank you for putting together this wonderful guide.

I've replaced the camera and it works but the camera has a problem focusing and all the pictures are blurry. Do you think it's the new camera or a software issue. This is the second camera I got from Phone Parts USA that has done this. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Robert Raney - 22/07/16