Motorola Moto Z2 Einschalt-/Lautstärken tauschen

No — *slaps wrist* No. Bad steps! Don’t use the suction cup at all, ever. It causes the two layers to separate immediately, long before the frame clips give way to let the screen come off.

I’m being super ultra very careful with this second attempt on a new device (that was in pretty pristine condition, if I can keep it that way!), and right when I tried pulling as instructed, the screen layers started to pull apart. Use a blade shoved into the edge of the phone and pry it apart, releasing the latches in the process!

I have to agree with Matt above. At the smallest bit of pressure on the suction cup, the screen de-laminated from the metal base. It still “works”, but….

None of the tools in the kit is terribly suited for getting in there and prying that clip apart without splitting the screen.

lease Read the Comments poste on “STEP 2”, When you apply the heat, the screen becomes unglued from the metal fram that it is attached to. I ended up damaging my screen. You need to make sure that what is coming unglued is the metal, and not just the plastic screen. I found out when I saw another video, where they do not apply heat, they just use a tool to pry the frame-display assembly… But apparently it was too late… You should be more specific about the warning…

this is really for the digitizer and screen replacement. there are still more steps for just the screen.

There is an enormous amount of adhesive sticking this thing together. As the adhesive is not essential (it holds together with clips, mostly), you really need to focus on *removing* the adhesive, so that it doesn’t stretch and bunch-up, preventing clean reassembly. Leave behind the adhesive that you can prevent from bunching-up (by cleanly breaking it, in turn by holding down one edge to the phone or screen), so you have some sticky left, but just make sure it’s not bunched-up.

Revisiting this comment a year later: there’s now replacement adhesive available (or maybe there always was - wish I knew!) for this model in the iFixit store. So, it would be best to remove the adhesive whereever you see it, cleaning everything up and preparing for the new adhesive. That darn adhesive in step 9 below, though… ugh. Work slow, don’t expect it to all be apart by this point.

This is a tricky part. See the biggest red-squared section in the photo above? That part always wants to detach — the adhesive to the screen is stronger than the molding that holds the metal into the plastic. The metal will detach from the plastic pretty easily, and there’s no way to get that metal back into the plastic frame (as it seems to have been molded as a single part). So, the adhesive is a booby-trap.

To defuse the booby-trap, heat the heck out of it, insert one end of tweezers (or perhaps a spudger) from the right side, hold the metal plate down, and verrry slooowwly convince the adhesive to separate. At some point, it’ll start cascading and snap free.

The metal finger area, between the two red squared sections above, also is a problem area — it’s latched into a frame above the battery, and those latches can get pulled up on top of the frame, preventing the phone from reassembling clean and flat. Make sure to re-insert those tabs so that little edge with the metal fingers sits flat and proper.

I found that a plastic card inserted from the left side, and worked with a sawing motion, between the screen and the adhesive worked great after the adhesive was softened by the alcohol.

Again, pay careful attention to the strong block of adhesive sticking the display to a metal shield that’s molded into the plastic frame - the adhesive strength is quite likely to pull out the metal shield from the plastic frame and there’s no going back from that. Not as catastrophic as ripping a ribbon cable, but still pretty bad. See my comment a couple photos up about that.

I added some alcohol directly to the adhesive patches on this side of the phone and waited a couple of minutes before continuing with this step.

Do this only after slicing all the little ribbons of adhesive that hang around - and clean up any gummed-up, bunched-up strands of adhesive after removing it. I worked at detaching adhesive until the screen was totally free, only held by the ribbon cable, before moving on from this step.

Upon disassembly I found no tape on my display cable

When reconnecting the display ribbon I found it much easier if you straighten out major 45/90 degree bend that is in the middle of the ribbon until the entire ribbon is all unbent and in parallel with the display face. You will then have a straight shot into the connector without having to hold the display at a 90 degree angle to the chassis and then having to look around, over or through the display to (and if luck is with you) find, lineup and insert the ribbon into the connector. You have to do a little in 3 dimensional thinking to re-bend the ribbon and line the display back up with the chassis but if you’ve made it that far then you should have no problems. Don’t bend the ribbon back and forth too many times.

There are actually 3 screws in the speaker

There are indeed 3 screws in mine as well. I updated this step.

There are three screws, one additional is in the lower right corner (orientation like seen in picture)

It’s not mentioned in the guide but you need to make sure to gently pry the ambient light sensor off of the speaker before removing the speaker or you will likely end up ripping its cable and connector from the motherboard.

If this happens the phone will still boot and work but the screen will be stuck at full brightness and won’t shut off automatically when making phone calls.

where is the laser on the camera?