Nintendo 3DS XL Einschaltknopf Austausch

Schritt 1

Lockere die beiden 4,2 mm langen Schrauben, die sich oben auf der hinteren Abdeckung befinden.
Die Schrauben haben feste Unterlegscheiben, durch die sie an der Rückabdeckung hängen bleiben. Lasse diese Unterlegscheiben an den Schrauben, es ist nicht nötig, sie für diese Reparatur zu entfernen.

Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again!

justjustintuber - 09/03/15

what type screwdriver do i use?!? its so small!!!!

Matthew - 18/03/18

I had success using a #00 Phillips head

Jake S - 30/04/21

Can't clip the front of the back cover back in

Macro Man -

Schritt 2

Halte das Gerät mit der Rückabdeckung nach oben.
Fange in der Ecke rechts oben an die Rückabdeckung mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug abzuhebeln.
Halte die Ecke offen, so dass sie nicht wieder einschnappt.
Schaue dir die Stelle unter dem Fach für den Stylus genau an. Heble die Abdeckung ab, falls nötig.
Hebe die Abdeckung ab und lege sie beiseite.

Note that on the lower side (opposite to the hinges), there are small hooking tabs. These require you to lift the top (screw side) off towards you, then the lower area.

Jordan Kelly - 14/04/17

Schritt 3

Setze das Plastiköffnungswekzeug in die Öffnung rechts vom Akku ein.
Hebe den Akku aus dem unteren Gehäuseteil heraus.
Entferne ihn und lege ihn beiseite.

My 👴 grandpa was helping me 🔧 repair my 3ds xl and ⚡️electrocuted himself with the 🔋battery while we was taking it out with a 🔪 knife. 💀 Rip grandpa 😔

Corban Bennett - 01/07/22

Schritt 4

Links und rechts vom Einschub für die Cartridges befinden sich oben zwei Gummifüße. Entferne sie mit einer Pinzette.

I found that the rubber bumps don't move easily, you'll likely have to use a lot of upward force to move them.

jconnell85 - 21/07/15

I torn one of the bumpers because I used a needle instead.

luxusmirajane - 31/07/15

You do have a pry a bit. I tore one a little but not that big of a deal.

Christopher - 07/11/15

I think the ease of this step would be subject to the age and condition of the 3DS. Mine came out with minimal leverage using my nails.

infmz - 04/04/16

try twisting upward

Kmi Nguyen - 26/01/17

I used a super tiny metal screwdriver to push the bumper against one side and then used the screwdriver to push it up and out

S Maduras - 28/05/17

I tried tweezers but they were scraping against the plastic and I didn't want to leave any marks. Ended up using a tiny flat screwdriver to get them out like S Maduras said. Once I got them out I noticed there was a tiny bit of glue on the bottom holding them in place.

Anth Rodi - 07/06/17

Schritt 5

Entferne sechs 6,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben # 00.

#000 ifixit philips screwdriver does not fit the 6.2mm screws. Whats the deal?

sevenethshinobi - 01/02/15

I have a 000 Phillips from tekton and it worked just fine.

Megan - 18/12/15

I stripped a good #000 screwdriver, and found that EVERY screw actually fit perfect and snug with a #00 screwdriver. Zero damage to the screws or the screwdriver with the #00.

Vannicke Trabeitt - 03/02/15

Don't buy the #000 screwdriver from this site! It's poorly made and strips the screws. I had to drill the screws out and replace them, it was very tricky and nearly broke my DS. Get a screwdriver from an electronics store.

sharga - 17/02/15

I bought and used the #00 screwdriver, and it worked perfectly for this.

I had also bought the #000, but I never needed it during the entire operation.

jconnell85 - 09/08/15

All 6 screws are exactly the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up.

Christopher - 07/11/15

One of the screws in my 3ds XL seems to have its '+' engraving worn off, i can't seem to unscrew it, though the other 5 unscrewed properly. What should I do?

Potato Man - 26/07/16

J000 works better here.

Dom - 18/03/17

I stripped a screw in my 3ds xl and don’t know how to get it out. Do I have to use a drill or is there another way?

Troy Czaban - 20/07/20

Schritt 6

Entferne die 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #00 über dem Einschub für die Cartridges.

between these two steps, the bottom two screws are not mentioned. make sure to take those out too ;)

anthony pullano -

Schritt 7

Sei sicher, dass die SD Karte entfernt ist. Fange an der Unterkante an das untere Gehäuseteil mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug abzulösen und gehe rings um das Gehäuse.
Zwei Flachbandkabel verbinden das Gehäuse mit der Hauptplatine. Ziehe nicht zu fest am Gehäuse damit die Kabel nicht beschädigt werden.

Make sure that you have removed your SD card, otherwise that'll keep you from completing this step.

jconnell85 - 21/07/15

Schritt 8

Unter den rechten und linken Tasten befinden sich zwei Flachbandkabel. Löse die Verbinder mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug.
Entferne das untere Gehäuseteil vom Gerät und lege es beiseite.

The IR board is facing the wrong way.

Jordan - 03/08/14

Thank you so much for pointing that out, it was keeping my system from starting up and I thought I blew it!

Ryan Hescock - 24/12/14

Yup, that is definitely an upside-down IR board, and will result in a silent post error. It was driving me crazy trying to figure out why the system wouldn't start up.

alexmouravskiy - 08/04/15

That's it!! Thanks so much!! I've tinkered around about one month and couldn't get this thing to work...all because I've followed the guide here and looked the picture up twice so I don't put the IR-Board in the wrong way...

chfreydank - 18/08/16

Hehe. That would explain why it was not working ;-)

boma40 - 20/09/14

Thank you guys so much! I followed everything faithfully and it was DOA on startup. (Black screens, blue light). The IR board was backwards. These pictures need to be fixed. As-is, it shows a broken 3DS.

jtmuehlbauer - 08/06/16

Schritt 9

Lege das Gerät mit dem Einschub für die Cartridges nach oben.
Finde das Schiebepad auf der rechten Seite.
Entferne die beiden 7,5 mm Schrauben oben links und unten rechts.

This IR is bad side, diode IR must be UP

patholog - 22/06/17

Careful you don’t lose the little washer on the circle pad stem. It’s not held down by anything.

edwardsgreg - 04/10/20

Schritt 10

Hebe das Schiebepad mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug heraus.
Wende dabei nicht zu viel Kraft an. Ein Flachbandkabel verbindet noch das Schiebepad mit der Hauptplatine.
Zwischen dem Joystick am Schiebepad und dem Schiebepad befindet sich eine Unterlegscheibe. Achte darauf und verliere sie nicht.

I found it easy to put my finger ontop of the board and apply a little pressure. When i popped off the board, my finger stopped it flying off.

Chris Ramsay - 05/01/16

I made a small mistake by popping the circle pad joystick and it went flying off and now im stuck trying to put it back in

magnus munoz - 26/02/19

Schritt 11

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zum Schiebepad auf der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
Löse das Flachbandkabel und das Schiebepad.

The 'flat head' holds it in place when down, and you can reattach your ribbon cable when it's up, it only needs to be partway in so when you close the flat head, if your joystick board can't move easily in place then you've done it right, it it's too loose, try again to work the ribbon cable under.

jconnell85 - 21/07/15

The ribbon goes into the left side of the "flat head" right? Not the end that clamps down on the right? I'm having a !&&* of a time sliding the end of the ribbon into the little space between the flat head when it's up and the side of the terminal.

Sedroc Djeddi - 23/06/17

For those of you like me, who got stuck after the last step.

To understand how to actually remove the circle pad, continue with these steps at 21.

Nintendo 3DS Schiebepad austauschen

Hope it helps those after me. I almost ripped some cabling inside thinking I had to take out the motherboard.. luckily I didn't.

monk333y - 26/07/15

Just as what monk333y said, follow the Original 3DS steps. They are identical and you don't have to remove anymore big parts. The only annoying part is taking out the circle pad.

luxusmirajane - 31/07/15

I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.

Lawrence - 11/10/15

Did the hot glue work? I did the exact same thing now im not sure what to do…

Matthew Johnson - 09/08/18

How do you re attach the ribbons? do the just snap right into the motherboard?

petraogan - 02/02/16

thank you monk333y, the author of this guide needs to correct a couple of things and how hard would it be for her to add steps 21 onward from the other guide?

S Maduras - 28/05/17

step 11, if you're just replacing the button, you don't need to disconnect the circle pad ribbon from the motherboard.

S Maduras - 28/05/17

During re-assemblhy, note that the peg between the joystick mechanism and the circle pad is rectangular, and must fit into the matching rectangular socket on the circle pad.

Dan - 23/07/17

When testing the touchscreen, make sure you install the analog. Otherwise, the screen will act erratic. Thought I broke a brand new part. Just a heads up!

Hassan Sinanan - 03/01/18

The entire top part of my circle pad had broken off, so I had no problem getting the old one out. I actually had more trouble getting the ribbon cable back into the clip, and the new circle pad attached to the stick, than any other part.

That said, this was way, way easier than I expected it to be.

Emtu - 17/01/18

Schritt 12

Lege das Gerät mit dem Einschub für die Cartridges nach oben.
Finde die Infrarotplatine oben rechts auf der Hauptplatine.
Auf den Bildern ist die Infrarotplatine leider mit der Unterseite nach oben montiert. Wenn du das so tust wird den 3DS XL nicht starten. Notiere dir die richtige Orientierung bevor du es ausbaust und setze es später korrekt ein.
Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug unter die Infrarotplatine und hebe sie vorsichtig heraus.

The IR board appears to be upside down in this photo.

Eric - 05/12/15

One assumes they forgot to take the photo before removal and quickly put it back on upside down (accidentally) for the purposes of taking the photo.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Removing the IR board is actually a completely unnecessary step. It's absolutely fine to leave the IR board attached to the motherboard, it's then one less loose piece to go missing ;)

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

The reason they remove these "easily loosable" pieces is because there's an order to put the board back together or the 3DS won't turn on. This is for replacing the motherboard, which most of the time you will buy and it won't come with the microphone, volume or IR board. Use your head kiddo. If it's so easy to loose these pieces, you should keep better track of them. We might as well just not take out any screws as well because those are very easy to loose

Miles Holiman - 28/05/17

You should add this note to the other uses of this picture; I accidentally knocked that chip off and reinstalled it upside down. I was referencing the photos for replacing the joystick.

Infernal Dalek - 17/11/16

You skipped removing the microphopne.

Mykaila Brown - 28/01/17

In my 3DXL, there was no IR board: the parts were installed directly on the motherboard.

Dan - 23/07/17

I agree my 3dxl the IR board is also part of the motherboard and doesnt come off.

Anthony siracuse - 06/01/18

Schritt 13

Hebe die WiFi Platine mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug hoch.
Die WiFi Platine ist weiterhin mit einem Kabel verbunden. Es ist nicht notwendig dieses zu lösen, es genügt die Platine für diesen Schritt aus dem Weg zu legen.

Component on bottom left was taken off, but not mentioned. Not sure what it does it does, and I'm assuming it's unimportant, but I just wanted to note.

Jordan - 03/08/14

The thing on the bottom left in the little black rubber cover is the mic!

Maxwell Alexander - 30/09/14

Why not just seperate the wifi board from the antenna now while in your hands? You're going to do it later anyway...

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Schritt 14

Finde die Lautstärketaste rechts auf der Hauptplatine in der Nähe des Schiebepads.
Entferne die Platine mit dem Lautstärkeregeler mit einer Pinzette vom Gehäuse. Sie ist immer noch mit der Hauptplatine durch ein Kabel verbunden.

As previously commented, in this step the microphone (lower left corner) was removed.

This is done by opening the grey flap, removing the ribbon from the motherboard and then either remove it or just let it sit in it’s place.

In my experience the motherboard will go around it easily.

Stefan Nicodem - 03/11/18

Schritt 15

Kippe den Haltebügel am Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zur Lautstärkeregelung auf der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vorsichtig nach oben.
Entferne die Platine der Lautstärkeregelung und lege sie beiseite.

This step proved to be unnecessary. It's perfectly fine to leave it attached, and again it's one less small fiddly piece to go missing.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

What if I pushed flap too hard and detached and cant find. Now I unable to secure in. Is there a part for this?

Crystal Ramirez - 05/04/18

Its is the small grey flap that holds in the ribbon.

Crystal Ramirez - 05/04/18

Schritt 16

Entferne die Plastikstücke in den Ecken unten rechts und links mit dem Finger oder einer Pinzette.
Du kannst sie auch entfernen indem du das Gerät herum drehst, dann fallen sie heraus. Verliere sie nicht.

Schritt 17

Hebe die Sicherungen an den beiden kleinen Flachbandkabeln an der Hauptplatine hoch.
Du findest sie oben rechts und unten rechts auf der Hauptplatine.
Löse die beiden Kabel.

For the first picture on step 17, (the one at the top of the board) what does that cable connect to? My clip broke.

Bradly - 07/01/15

MMM as far as I can tell it looks like it's for the touch screen as it plugs into p13 and is the same plug type as p10, p12 and p17 and a couple others. Could be wrong though :)

Connor - 18/01/15

Schritt 18

Klappe die Sicherungsbügel an den etwas breiteren Flachbandkabeln mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
Achte darauf die Klappen von der weißen Seite her zu öffnen.
Löse die Kabel.

Note: the top right wider ribbon is for the camera, the thinner ribbon in the top right is for the speakers and the bottom ribbon is to the upper lcd. You will want to ensure you stack the ribbons appropriately when putting the system back together.

Elaine - 04/11/14

Had some trouble with this: Not exactly sure why, but when after successfully replacing the screen and beginning to resemble, while reinserting the wide ribbon for the lower LCD (p8) it seems that the white locking clip unhinged itself from the connector, and bent some of the pins. The ribbon now won't fully insert.. Can't figure out if I've somehow completely ruined my 3ds. Mostly concerned about my save data that's not on my sdcard.

kbbauer - 25/07/15

Schritt 19

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Flachbandkabel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
An dieser Klappe musst du von der schwarzen Seite her arbeiten.
Löse das Flachbandkabel.
Zusammenbau: dieses breitere Flachbandkabel hat einen schwarzen Streifen und verläuft auf der oberen (sichtbaren) Seite der Hauptplatine.

Schritt 20

Entferne zehn 3,0 mm Schrauben rings um die Hauptplatine.

It’s not a *!&*^#% 5.5mm, it’s 0.05mm probably. I ended up using wrong screws and punctured the housing. So wrong!

장한솔 - 07/09/18

I think those 5,5 mm mean the length (!) of the screws. The heads are normal little Philipps, perhaps #00 or #000.

VauWeh - 07/09/18

I took a micrometer to these screws, they are not 5.5 mm long.

Evan J Garner - 22/10/20

These screws are 3.0mm long.

Marques Jones -

Schritt 21

Die Hauptplatine ist immer noch oben rechts befestigt. Entferne sie also noch nicht ganz.
Hebe die Platine sorgfältig gerade soweit hoch, dass die beiden Plastikbefestigungen an den beiden oberen Ecken des Einschubs für die Cartridges frei werden.
Kippe die Platine vorsichtig über die Oberkante.

Laying it down like this puts too much stress on the ribbon cable. I find it better to release the connector while the board is tilted at a 90 degree angle to the body of the 3DS. Less chance of damage to the top screen cable that way.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Schritt 22

Hebe vorsichtig die Sicherung am Verbinder des breiteren Flachbandkabels in der oberen rechten Seite der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
Hebe von der weißen Seite her hoch.
Löse das Flachbandkabel.
Lege die Hauptplatine zur Seite.

So I tore this wire is this the visual or something?? Please help

linkon king - 17/10/16

I tore this wire too. Am I able to buy it individually?

dobe mon - 25/10/16

How do you get this cable back in? It is way too short...

Luke Miller - 30/03/17

Tweezers, steady hand, and a little luck.

Marcus DeCamp - 27/07/17

So, before step 23 do you put the bottom half of the 3ds xl back together?

Poké Pi. - 17/12/17

When fixing, I can't put the 2 wires in the connector. HELP!

Owen Burch - 23/03/18

are there issues with compatibility between motherboards? one works perfectly and the other powers on then off

xdboost -

Don't unplug this cable. Just leave the motherboard flat and don't move it while replacing the face button(s). This thing is way too hard to get back in.

Engiturtle -

It's hard to put it back but it's doable if you spend a lot of time, it took me around an hour and a half, also make sure you put it well because the first time, it was not fully inserted and the screen was flickering with gray lines so after I reinserted it worked fine.

Levan Kakashvili -

Schritt 23

Entferne die Gummikappe in der linken unteren Ecke mit einer Pinzette.
Ziehe den Einschaltknopf mit der Pinzette heraus.

Nintendo 3DS XL Einschaltknopf Austausch

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

Schritt 1

Schritt 2

Schritt 3

Schritt 4

Schritt 5

Schritt 6

Schritt 7

Schritt 8

Schritt 9

Schritt 10

Schritt 11

Schritt 12

Schritt 13

Schritt 14

Schritt 15

Schritt 16

Schritt 17

Schritt 18

Schritt 19

Schritt 20

Schritt 21

Schritt 22

Schritt 23

Tinte & Feder

Charlene Donlon

2 Kommentare