Nintendo 3DS XL oberes LCD-Display tauschen

Geschrieben von: Charlene Donlon

Kommentare: 164

Nintendo 3DS XL oberes LCD-Display tauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Sehr schwierig

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

45 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des oberen LCD gezeigt. Dazu musst du erst das obere, dann das untere Gehäuseteil öffnen, um an die Flachbandkabel zu kommen, über die das obere Display mit restlichen Gerät verbunden ist.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Lockere die beiden 4,2 mm langen Schrauben, die sich oben auf der hinteren Abdeckung befinden.
Die Schrauben haben feste Unterlegscheiben, durch die sie an der Rückabdeckung hängen bleiben. Lasse diese Unterlegscheiben an den Schrauben, es ist nicht nötig, sie für diese Reparatur zu entfernen.

Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again!

justjustintuber - 09/03/15

what type screwdriver do i use?!? its so small!!!!

Matthew - 18/03/18

I had success using a #00 Phillips head

Jake S - 30/04/21

Can't clip the front of the back cover back in

Macro Man -

Schritt 2

Halte das Gerät mit der Rückabdeckung nach oben.
Fange in der Ecke rechts oben an die Rückabdeckung mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug abzuhebeln.
Halte die Ecke offen, so dass sie nicht wieder einschnappt.
Schaue dir die Stelle unter dem Fach für den Stylus genau an. Heble die Abdeckung ab, falls nötig.
Hebe die Abdeckung ab und lege sie beiseite.

Note that on the lower side (opposite to the hinges), there are small hooking tabs. These require you to lift the top (screw side) off towards you, then the lower area.

Jordan Kelly - 14/04/17

Schritt 3

Setze das Plastiköffnungswekzeug in die Öffnung rechts vom Akku ein.
Hebe den Akku aus dem unteren Gehäuseteil heraus.
Entferne ihn und lege ihn beiseite.

My 👴 grandpa was helping me 🔧 repair my 3ds xl and ⚡️electrocuted himself with the 🔋battery while we was taking it out with a 🔪 knife. 💀 Rip grandpa 😔

Corban Bennett - 01/07/22

Schritt 4

Links und rechts vom Einschub für die Cartridges befinden sich oben zwei Gummifüße. Entferne sie mit einer Pinzette.

I found that the rubber bumps don't move easily, you'll likely have to use a lot of upward force to move them.

jconnell85 - 21/07/15

I torn one of the bumpers because I used a needle instead.

luxusmirajane - 31/07/15

You do have a pry a bit. I tore one a little but not that big of a deal.

Christopher - 07/11/15

I think the ease of this step would be subject to the age and condition of the 3DS. Mine came out with minimal leverage using my nails.

infmz - 04/04/16

try twisting upward

Kmi Nguyen - 26/01/17

I used a super tiny metal screwdriver to push the bumper against one side and then used the screwdriver to push it up and out

S Maduras - 28/05/17

I tried tweezers but they were scraping against the plastic and I didn't want to leave any marks. Ended up using a tiny flat screwdriver to get them out like S Maduras said. Once I got them out I noticed there was a tiny bit of glue on the bottom holding them in place.

Anth Rodi - 07/06/17

Schritt 5

Entferne sechs 6,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben # 00.

#000 ifixit philips screwdriver does not fit the 6.2mm screws. Whats the deal?

sevenethshinobi - 01/02/15

I have a 000 Phillips from tekton and it worked just fine.

Megan - 18/12/15

I stripped a good #000 screwdriver, and found that EVERY screw actually fit perfect and snug with a #00 screwdriver. Zero damage to the screws or the screwdriver with the #00.

Vannicke Trabeitt - 03/02/15

Don't buy the #000 screwdriver from this site! It's poorly made and strips the screws. I had to drill the screws out and replace them, it was very tricky and nearly broke my DS. Get a screwdriver from an electronics store.

sharga - 17/02/15

I bought and used the #00 screwdriver, and it worked perfectly for this.

I had also bought the #000, but I never needed it during the entire operation.

jconnell85 - 09/08/15

All 6 screws are exactly the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up.

Christopher - 07/11/15

One of the screws in my 3ds XL seems to have its '+' engraving worn off, i can't seem to unscrew it, though the other 5 unscrewed properly. What should I do?

Potato Man - 26/07/16

J000 works better here.

Dom - 18/03/17

I stripped a screw in my 3ds xl and don’t know how to get it out. Do I have to use a drill or is there another way?

Troy Czaban - 20/07/20

Schritt 6

Entferne die 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #00 über dem Einschub für die Cartridges.

between these two steps, the bottom two screws are not mentioned. make sure to take those out too ;)

anthony pullano -

Schritt 7

Sei sicher, dass die SD Karte entfernt ist. Fange an der Unterkante an das untere Gehäuseteil mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug abzulösen und gehe rings um das Gehäuse.
Zwei Flachbandkabel verbinden das Gehäuse mit der Hauptplatine. Ziehe nicht zu fest am Gehäuse damit die Kabel nicht beschädigt werden.

Make sure that you have removed your SD card, otherwise that'll keep you from completing this step.

jconnell85 - 21/07/15

Schritt 8

Unter den rechten und linken Tasten befinden sich zwei Flachbandkabel. Löse die Verbinder mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug.
Entferne das untere Gehäuseteil vom Gerät und lege es beiseite.

The IR board is facing the wrong way.

Jordan - 03/08/14

Thank you so much for pointing that out, it was keeping my system from starting up and I thought I blew it!

Ryan Hescock - 24/12/14

Yup, that is definitely an upside-down IR board, and will result in a silent post error. It was driving me crazy trying to figure out why the system wouldn't start up.

alexmouravskiy - 08/04/15

That's it!! Thanks so much!! I've tinkered around about one month and couldn't get this thing to work...all because I've followed the guide here and looked the picture up twice so I don't put the IR-Board in the wrong way...

chfreydank - 18/08/16

Hehe. That would explain why it was not working ;-)

boma40 - 20/09/14

Thank you guys so much! I followed everything faithfully and it was DOA on startup. (Black screens, blue light). The IR board was backwards. These pictures need to be fixed. As-is, it shows a broken 3DS.

jtmuehlbauer - 08/06/16

Schritt 9

Lege das Gerät mit dem Einschub für die Cartridges nach oben.
Finde das Schiebepad auf der rechten Seite.
Entferne die beiden 7,5 mm Schrauben oben links und unten rechts.

This IR is bad side, diode IR must be UP

patholog - 22/06/17

Careful you don’t lose the little washer on the circle pad stem. It’s not held down by anything.

edwardsgreg - 04/10/20

Schritt 10

Hebe das Schiebepad mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug heraus.
Wende dabei nicht zu viel Kraft an. Ein Flachbandkabel verbindet noch das Schiebepad mit der Hauptplatine.
Zwischen dem Joystick am Schiebepad und dem Schiebepad befindet sich eine Unterlegscheibe. Achte darauf und verliere sie nicht.

I found it easy to put my finger ontop of the board and apply a little pressure. When i popped off the board, my finger stopped it flying off.

Chris Ramsay - 05/01/16

I made a small mistake by popping the circle pad joystick and it went flying off and now im stuck trying to put it back in

magnus munoz - 26/02/19

Schritt 11

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zum Schiebepad auf der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
Löse das Flachbandkabel und das Schiebepad.

The 'flat head' holds it in place when down, and you can reattach your ribbon cable when it's up, it only needs to be partway in so when you close the flat head, if your joystick board can't move easily in place then you've done it right, it it's too loose, try again to work the ribbon cable under.

jconnell85 - 21/07/15

The ribbon goes into the left side of the "flat head" right? Not the end that clamps down on the right? I'm having a !&&* of a time sliding the end of the ribbon into the little space between the flat head when it's up and the side of the terminal.

Sedroc Djeddi - 23/06/17

For those of you like me, who got stuck after the last step.

To understand how to actually remove the circle pad, continue with these steps at 21.

Nintendo 3DS Schiebepad austauschen

Hope it helps those after me. I almost ripped some cabling inside thinking I had to take out the motherboard.. luckily I didn't.

monk333y - 26/07/15

Just as what monk333y said, follow the Original 3DS steps. They are identical and you don't have to remove anymore big parts. The only annoying part is taking out the circle pad.

luxusmirajane - 31/07/15

I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.

Lawrence - 11/10/15

Did the hot glue work? I did the exact same thing now im not sure what to do…

Matthew Johnson - 09/08/18

How do you re attach the ribbons? do the just snap right into the motherboard?

petraogan - 02/02/16

thank you monk333y, the author of this guide needs to correct a couple of things and how hard would it be for her to add steps 21 onward from the other guide?

S Maduras - 28/05/17

step 11, if you're just replacing the button, you don't need to disconnect the circle pad ribbon from the motherboard.

S Maduras - 28/05/17

During re-assemblhy, note that the peg between the joystick mechanism and the circle pad is rectangular, and must fit into the matching rectangular socket on the circle pad.

Dan - 23/07/17

When testing the touchscreen, make sure you install the analog. Otherwise, the screen will act erratic. Thought I broke a brand new part. Just a heads up!

Hassan Sinanan - 03/01/18

The entire top part of my circle pad had broken off, so I had no problem getting the old one out. I actually had more trouble getting the ribbon cable back into the clip, and the new circle pad attached to the stick, than any other part.

That said, this was way, way easier than I expected it to be.

Emtu - 17/01/18

Schritt 12

Lege das Gerät mit dem Einschub für die Cartridges nach oben.
Finde die Infrarotplatine oben rechts auf der Hauptplatine.
Auf den Bildern ist die Infrarotplatine leider mit der Unterseite nach oben montiert. Wenn du das so tust wird den 3DS XL nicht starten. Notiere dir die richtige Orientierung bevor du es ausbaust und setze es später korrekt ein.
Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug unter die Infrarotplatine und hebe sie vorsichtig heraus.

The IR board appears to be upside down in this photo.

Eric - 05/12/15

One assumes they forgot to take the photo before removal and quickly put it back on upside down (accidentally) for the purposes of taking the photo.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Removing the IR board is actually a completely unnecessary step. It's absolutely fine to leave the IR board attached to the motherboard, it's then one less loose piece to go missing ;)

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

The reason they remove these "easily loosable" pieces is because there's an order to put the board back together or the 3DS won't turn on. This is for replacing the motherboard, which most of the time you will buy and it won't come with the microphone, volume or IR board. Use your head kiddo. If it's so easy to loose these pieces, you should keep better track of them. We might as well just not take out any screws as well because those are very easy to loose

Miles Holiman - 28/05/17

You should add this note to the other uses of this picture; I accidentally knocked that chip off and reinstalled it upside down. I was referencing the photos for replacing the joystick.

Infernal Dalek - 17/11/16

You skipped removing the microphopne.

Mykaila Brown - 28/01/17

In my 3DXL, there was no IR board: the parts were installed directly on the motherboard.

Dan - 23/07/17

I agree my 3dxl the IR board is also part of the motherboard and doesnt come off.

Anthony siracuse - 06/01/18

Schritt 13

Hebe die WiFi Platine mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug hoch.
Die WiFi Platine ist weiterhin mit einem Kabel verbunden. Es ist nicht notwendig dieses zu lösen, es genügt die Platine für diesen Schritt aus dem Weg zu legen.

Component on bottom left was taken off, but not mentioned. Not sure what it does it does, and I'm assuming it's unimportant, but I just wanted to note.

Jordan - 03/08/14

The thing on the bottom left in the little black rubber cover is the mic!

Maxwell Alexander - 30/09/14

Why not just seperate the wifi board from the antenna now while in your hands? You're going to do it later anyway...

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Schritt 14

Finde die Lautstärketaste rechts auf der Hauptplatine in der Nähe des Schiebepads.
Entferne die Platine mit dem Lautstärkeregeler mit einer Pinzette vom Gehäuse. Sie ist immer noch mit der Hauptplatine durch ein Kabel verbunden.

As previously commented, in this step the microphone (lower left corner) was removed.

This is done by opening the grey flap, removing the ribbon from the motherboard and then either remove it or just let it sit in it’s place.

In my experience the motherboard will go around it easily.

Stefan Nicodem - 03/11/18

Schritt 15

Kippe den Haltebügel am Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zur Lautstärkeregelung auf der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vorsichtig nach oben.
Entferne die Platine der Lautstärkeregelung und lege sie beiseite.

This step proved to be unnecessary. It's perfectly fine to leave it attached, and again it's one less small fiddly piece to go missing.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

What if I pushed flap too hard and detached and cant find. Now I unable to secure in. Is there a part for this?

Crystal Ramirez - 05/04/18

Its is the small grey flap that holds in the ribbon.

Crystal Ramirez - 05/04/18

Schritt 16

Entferne die Plastikstücke in den Ecken unten rechts und links mit dem Finger oder einer Pinzette.
Du kannst sie auch entfernen indem du das Gerät herum drehst, dann fallen sie heraus. Verliere sie nicht.

Schritt 17

Hebe die Sicherungen an den beiden kleinen Flachbandkabeln an der Hauptplatine hoch.
Du findest sie oben rechts und unten rechts auf der Hauptplatine.
Löse die beiden Kabel.

For the first picture on step 17, (the one at the top of the board) what does that cable connect to? My clip broke.

Bradly - 07/01/15

MMM as far as I can tell it looks like it's for the touch screen as it plugs into p13 and is the same plug type as p10, p12 and p17 and a couple others. Could be wrong though :)

Connor - 18/01/15

Schritt 18

Klappe die Sicherungsbügel an den etwas breiteren Flachbandkabeln mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
Achte darauf die Klappen von der weißen Seite her zu öffnen.
Löse die Kabel.

Note: the top right wider ribbon is for the camera, the thinner ribbon in the top right is for the speakers and the bottom ribbon is to the upper lcd. You will want to ensure you stack the ribbons appropriately when putting the system back together.

Elaine - 04/11/14

Had some trouble with this: Not exactly sure why, but when after successfully replacing the screen and beginning to resemble, while reinserting the wide ribbon for the lower LCD (p8) it seems that the white locking clip unhinged itself from the connector, and bent some of the pins. The ribbon now won't fully insert.. Can't figure out if I've somehow completely ruined my 3ds. Mostly concerned about my save data that's not on my sdcard.

kbbauer - 25/07/15

Schritt 19

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Flachbandkabel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
An dieser Klappe musst du von der schwarzen Seite her arbeiten.
Löse das Flachbandkabel.
Zusammenbau: dieses breitere Flachbandkabel hat einen schwarzen Streifen und verläuft auf der oberen (sichtbaren) Seite der Hauptplatine.

Schritt 20

Entferne zehn 3,0 mm Schrauben rings um die Hauptplatine.

It’s not a *!&*^#% 5.5mm, it’s 0.05mm probably. I ended up using wrong screws and punctured the housing. So wrong!

장한솔 - 07/09/18

I think those 5,5 mm mean the length (!) of the screws. The heads are normal little Philipps, perhaps #00 or #000.

VauWeh - 07/09/18

I took a micrometer to these screws, they are not 5.5 mm long.

Evan J Garner - 22/10/20

These screws are 3.0mm long.

Marques Jones -

Schritt 21

Die Hauptplatine ist immer noch oben rechts befestigt. Entferne sie also noch nicht ganz.
Hebe die Platine sorgfältig gerade soweit hoch, dass die beiden Plastikbefestigungen an den beiden oberen Ecken des Einschubs für die Cartridges frei werden.
Kippe die Platine vorsichtig über die Oberkante.

Laying it down like this puts too much stress on the ribbon cable. I find it better to release the connector while the board is tilted at a 90 degree angle to the body of the 3DS. Less chance of damage to the top screen cable that way.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Schritt 22

Hebe vorsichtig die Sicherung am Verbinder des breiteren Flachbandkabels in der oberen rechten Seite der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
Hebe von der weißen Seite her hoch.
Löse das Flachbandkabel.
Lege die Hauptplatine zur Seite.

So I tore this wire is this the visual or something?? Please help

linkon king - 17/10/16

I tore this wire too. Am I able to buy it individually?

dobe mon - 25/10/16

How do you get this cable back in? It is way too short...

Luke Miller - 30/03/17

Tweezers, steady hand, and a little luck.

Marcus DeCamp - 27/07/17

So, before step 23 do you put the bottom half of the 3ds xl back together?

Poké Pi. - 17/12/17

When fixing, I can't put the 2 wires in the connector. HELP!

Owen Burch - 23/03/18

are there issues with compatibility between motherboards? one works perfectly and the other powers on then off

xdboost -

Don't unplug this cable. Just leave the motherboard flat and don't move it while replacing the face button(s). This thing is way too hard to get back in.

Engiturtle -

It's hard to put it back but it's doable if you spend a lot of time, it took me around an hour and a half, also make sure you put it well because the first time, it was not fully inserted and the screen was flickering with gray lines so after I reinserted it worked fine.

Levan Kakashvili -

Schritt 23

Öffne das Gerät mit dem oberen LCD nach oben.
Entferne die vier Gummiabdeckungen in den Ecken mit einer Pinzette.

I find tweezers can cause damage to the rubber screw covers too frequently. Using a fine sewing needle and prying them up from the corner helps to avoid damage to them seeing as you have to replace them later. You can see the one in the bottom right corner here is damaged. Using an exacto knife or razor blade is also too risky.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

I removed the rubber covers and the screws aren't there.

Noah Wilkerson - 01/12/16

pry them up from corner at an angle to get underneath them. you will have a harder time trying to pull them up from the sides.

Kmi Nguyen - 26/01/17

Noah It's possible you saw the shiny part underneath the rubber. They're supposed to come off with the rubber but I screwed up on the last one and didn't get that part out with the rubber. You might be seeing that. It's actually more difficult to get those out :/

Cary Hapeman - 29/01/17

Schritt 24

Drehe die vier 4,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben # 00 unter den Gummiabdeckungen heraus.

Schritt 25

Drehe das Gerät um und Klappe es zu.
Setze deine Finger oben am Gelenk an und presse nach unten um die Abdeckung weg vom Gelenk zu drücken. Es bewegt sich nur etwa 2mm weit.

Mine was pretty tight so I had to force my plastic spudger into the opening to get anywhere

Tim T - 29/12/16

Schritt 26

Wenn die Abdeckung lose und ausgerastet ist kannst du sie vom 3DS entfernen.

Schritt 27

Entferne die Schraube die den Auslöser für den 3D Mechanismus festhält.
Ziehe vorsichtig die Flachbandkabel ab die die Kamera und die Lautsprecher mit dem oberen LCD verbinden.
Die Flachbandkabel sind verklebt, sei beim Ablösen vorsichtig.

Schritt 28

Entferne die beiden kleineren Flachbandkabel in der oberen linken Ecke.
Klappe die Sicherungsbügel hoch die die Kabel an der Halterung sichern.
Ziehe die Kabel aus der Halterung.

The problem with reassembly is getting the LCD Flex cable back and through the hinge. It is very very likely to rip the cable due to the angle of the cable and the wind up "tube" you create to push the cable through the hinge.

Remember if you rip the LCD cable you'll need to get a completely new LCD.

Kneil Kameron - 11/04/15

Schritt 29

Klappe den Nintendo auf und hebe das LCD vorsichtig mit den Fingern ab.
Entferne vorsichtig das Flachbandkabel aus dem Gelenk.
Es ist zwar nicht unbedingt notwendig, vereinfacht aber den Ausbau des Flachbandabels, wenn du vorher auf der rechten Geräteseite die Achse im Gelenk entfernst.
Verliere nicht die kleinen gummierten und wasserfesten rechteckigen Gewebestückchen die die Lautsprecher bedecken; sie fallen oft beim Ausbau heraus.
Das Deckglas über dem LCD kann ausgetauscht oder auf das neue LCD über tragen werden. Das Glas kann durch Metallwerkzeuge leicht verkratzt werden, benutzt deine Fingernägel oder Plastikwerkzeuge.
Klebe die Scheibe mit dünnem Klebeband am LCD fest, vielleicht kannst du auch noch den alten Kleber benutzen.
Am die Achse im Gelenk wieder einzusetzen, musst du die Konsole bis zum letzten Klick öffnen, bevor sie ganz flach liegt.

I would recommend removing the left side hinge, hard to get to it but it does slide out just like the smaller 3ds. Otherwise you will tear the ribbon cables putting them back thru.

jehusk - 03/06/15

I was very precise in my reassembly which overall did take much longer than 30mins. After recharging, I can power up no problem and both screens come on with backlight! But no operating system starts up. I have lights, power, charging, wifi... But no system startup!! My IR board is correct (upside down from the above pic, I used another video guide) but I do not know what else could cause this?? Any ideas of what could be loose/missed connection causing this??

Laurajane - 26/08/15

Don't know if you fixed this but it could be caused by a bad wifi board. Have you tried replacing that?

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Sweet buttery babies, removing the ribbon cables through the hinge is the most stressful thing I've done all week. You need to add more detailed pictures of this, the hardest step.

Tom Burke - 01/02/16

Please see my reply, hope it helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

I found it easier to remove the hinge on the other side (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmoXDuU... for how) and then do the cables that way, wrapping them (and a touch of tape) around a small screwdriver to help feed through... But holy crap was that the hardest part of this.

Had it not been for that, this would have been a 20 minute repair, instead, first time, 3 hours.... wtf

rdewalt - 18/10/16

Why has nobody posted explaining how to seperate the middle sections? It's actually pretty simple to do. Open the remaining parts of the 3DS XL to the 2nd widest setting (not 180 degrees, just before that). Once done, in the right hinge there is a shiny black piece with a gap in it. Through this gap you can see the white of the hinge. Use a small flathead screwdriver to nudge the hinge towards the center of the 3DS XL. Be gentle, it will slide far enough so you can almost seperate the top half. If you do it right it will be just shy of clearing, so gently bend the right hinge just a millimetre or two and you will be able to pull the barrel hinge side clear. Don't go nuts, as you still have to carefully thread the ribbon cables out through the slit of doom, making sure not to get them caught on the wifi cable. Continued in reply...

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Once free, gently pry the top screen out (it's stuck with an adhesive strip round the front of the screen) and flip it downwards. Pull the wifi cable through the ring and away from the ribbons, then roll your 3 ribbon cables up tight and gently pull those too though the ring. Don't forget to remove the black adhesive strip and plastic screen lens to put onto your new screen. Follow the directions in reverse to put your 2 halves together and follow the rest of this guide in reverse to get your 3DS XL working as good as new again. I hope this helps someone, if I get time one day I will take some photos to show how to do this. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

I was wondering why I can't seem to get upper lcd cable to go in properly it's always setup upside down when I roll the three ribbon cables together? You have any input on that? Thanks

Tony Azarian - 01/09/16

Thank u, very good to explain how to extract these ribbons. Need some photos to update this tutorial...

Frederic Morelli - 02/05/17

Your comment saved this project for me. This guide, as written, woefully underportrays the difficulty of not damaging any of the ribbon connectors for this step. You are MUCH better off separating the hinges (The Retro Gaming Repair, paired with YouTube videos, are a great resource) and working the ribbons through the metal hinge liner and the wide slot than trying to worm the new screen ribbon through the hinge liner and much smaller hole while still connected.

Jesse Espe - 11/07/17

This is ridiculous. Tore the ribbon trying to get it through the hinge. New screen is toast.

ben_chronister - 23/02/17

What the crap. I can’t understand what you are saying how to put ribbon through hinges, and I am so confused!!!!!!!!!

Owen Burch - 10/11/17

what you should do is remove the hinge piece on the right side of the console. there are some comments talking about it.

Ethan Pimm - 24/10/19

It was easier for me to rethread the display ribbon cable when the hinge was closed completely.

edwardsgreg - 04/10/20

"Don't forget to remove the black adhesive strip and plastic screen lens to put onto your new screen." - That was not easy...

Justin Smith -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Charlene Donlon

Mitglied seit: 08/04/14

9809 Reputation

63 Kommentare

Any good ways to get the ribbon cable back through the hole?

Timothy Levonius - 31/10/14

did u find a solution?? i need help.

David Mancini - 20/11/14

Carefully just have a pre-twist to it....good luck

Stephen Hernandez - 10/02/15

justjustintuber - 09/03/15

Try a Bobby hair pin.

Jesse James Cantu - 10/07/17

The Replacement is not that Easy, but this Video helped me how to remove the Hinge and feed through the Ribbons again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmoXDuU...

Calvin C. - 12/06/18

As with the original 3ds you need to roll it up together with the other 2 cables and feed it through, I use a pair of rubber tipped tweezers, it can be a pain and will take time to get it right, go slow so you don't rip the cables.

john husk - 04/11/14

How do you put the ribbons back properly?? i cant get them to go in!!

David Mancini - 20/11/14

You should edit the images that show the IR board to at least identify that that piece is backwards in your photos and also to highlight the mic in the bottom left.

Ryan Hescock - 24/12/14

I struggled with getting the ribbon back through the hinge. I even ripped it on my first try and had to order another screen.

In the end, I used a straw, like the kind you'd drink a coke with, and cut a 1/4 inch section from it and wound the ribbon in that straw piece and pushed it through the hinge with no problem.

You will need something like a soldering holder or clamps to hold the 3DS XL itself while you do this, no way you can hold the screen, the ribbon/straw and the 3DS XL at the same time.

jason s - 24/12/14

Says 30 minutes on time to complete. I'd say you're looking at more like 2-3 hours with a success rate of 50% due to the difficulty of threading the display ribbon back through the hinge. That part alone took me 2-3 hrs.

jason s - 24/12/14

Just a note, I FINALLY managed to unhinge the 3DS found a youtube video with a comment that helped lead me in the right direction. It's a huge pain to get off but makes threading the ribbons easier and lowers chance of dmg.

To remove the hinge go to t he hinge that does NOT have the ribbons. Beside there is a piece of plastic that sits on top of the LED power light, look for a small opening, if you look carefully you should see white plastic. Make sure to close the 3ds carefully and push the piece of plastic towards towards the middle of the case (this can require a lot of force). The hinge should now detach be careful. Once the white plastic is far enough in, the plastic piece surrounding the LED plastic should come up quite easily.

Now you can thread the ribbon cables on the other hinge through quite easily.

Connor - 17/01/15

Just a note, it does take a LOT of force to remove it, AND to replace it, and the piece that slides out easily that holds the hinge in place as well as the clear Streetpass LED piece. I had mine half together when I realized a little clear piece was sitting on my table, and had to take it apart to find where it came from, and found it after taking the hinge apart again ... the last thing to do.

Vannicke Trabeitt - 03/02/15

Thanks for your comment! I think the hinge part is the most difficult part for tackling top screen replacement/ replacing speaker cable (in my case).

timyip3 - 24/12/15

For the record the barrel hinge (white part) slides out of the way much easier if you open the 3DS XL halves to the second 'click' before trying to nudge it. Not quite 180 degrees. Once done it slides out much more easily, just remember to put it back in the same way. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

I did it! I did it!

- But a few notes: The ribbon cable is 1000x easier to put through the slot in the plastic on the case if you remove the hinge piece, as noted by Connor (Thank you!)

- I had ripped the ribbon on the cracked screen I had been trying to pull it out, and UNHINGING THE TWO HALVES of the 3ds makes the ribbon part MUCH EASIER.

- Also, I destroyed a #000 philips head on the fourth screw. A #00 fit perfectly, and there was no more damage to screws.

Result: My Zelda Edition 3DS XL is now repaired, but it took 3 hours, not 30 minutes, and destroyed a #000 screwdriver in the process. I recommend using a #00.

Vannicke Trabeitt - 03/02/15

it does say use a 00

Ethan Pimm - 24/10/19

Just have patience and be careful as with any repair....sorry yall had so much trouble....

Stephen Hernandez - 10/02/15

********Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015 New3DS XL) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again! :) ********

justjustintuber - 10/03/15

I am a attempting a hinge repair by replacing the full shell. I have an issue when I have come to step 23 and 24. After removing the rubber for the four screws, the screw heads are not shown, instead a metal plate is present. Any ideas ??

ngrafton - 16/04/15

It's just a foil like material if you haven't figured that out by now. Cut a little deeper but not all the way around, you can use a small amount of adhesive to put the black screw covers back in place, otherwise you'll be staring at screw heads every time you open the 3ds xl.

jehusk - 03/06/15

i can't open the top screen

Christopher Hunter - 31/10/15

Be careful ! this guide is not finished ! there is a lake of informations about how to extract the LCD top screen and how to open the hinge.

My first LCD top screen replacement for a 3DS XL was very difficult. Hard if you are a beginner.

Frederic Morelli - 13/12/15

Warning: if you are a beginner, don't attempt this. I have taken apart many ds lites and put them together and I found this challenging.

Megan - 18/12/15

This was so IRRITATING Not enough description in step 29

Cody Rozema - 27/02/16

Please see my comment in step 29. I hope it helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

The upper LCd ribbon when u put it in does the contact side of the ribbon go towards the motherboard or does the contact Side face up

Dave - 03/03/16

OK so I got the upper screen and hook everything back up hit the power button an the bottom screen flashes then the power light turns off anyone know what I could have done wrong

Dave - 03/03/16

Hello all ok I got it together I hit power button light comes on lower screen flashes then powers off anybody know what I could have done wrong

Dave - 03/03/16

One of your cables isnt fully connected

Patrick Wulfe - 03/04/16

Sounds like top screen cable may have been damaged, or the ribbon cable for it isn't seated properly in the connector if you haven't fixed this already.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

For anyone having problems removing or re-installing the ribbon cable, see this video for a technique that could hopefully ease the pain:

https://youtu.be/OAUEms0X5TQ

djrpascu - 13/04/16

I put the new upper screen in an it won't power on blue light just flashes for a second

Dave - 11/06/16

Don't know if you'll see my other reply but if your bottom screen flashes white for a second then there's a problem with the top LCD. Either the ribbon cable is damaged, or its not properly fitted into the connector (hanging out or wrong way round). If the cable is damaged (tears can be very difficult to spot) then you'll need a new top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Totally wrecked the plastic covers and the foil covers mentioned in step 23. Find an easier workaround than tweezers unless you want to be seeing screws every time you open your DS.

Ari Aviles - 08/07/16

I use a fine sewing needle, dig it down the corner of one of them as far as you can before levering the screw cover up, that way you're less likely to destroy them :) James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 08/08/16

The cable that feeds through the hinge on my ads xl is ripped, what should i buy to replace it?

Don Bittle - 23/07/16

Depends which cable is ripped. If it's the black one that's the camera. The thinner orange one is speaker flex cable. The thicker orange is the top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 08/08/16

My lcd ribbon cable when twisted and put through the hinge it's always upside down? Is there a method to get it the right side up?

Tony Azarian - 01/09/16

what would cause the bottom LCD display to not work? the touch function does but i can't see anything

Steve Taylor - 15/09/16

If the outer screen is not cracked and the sound still works do you need to buy those parts too?

mercenarywarlord - 22/09/16

I have replaced the top screen, it receives power but doesn't display content, anyone have any ideas?

kyle1986 - 24/09/16

Hello, somebody had problems with the top case reinstall?. Thanks.

hernanlopezpardo - 21/10/16

The IR board is kinda obvious which way it should point. This was not an easy repair in my opinion. It had me cussing and swearing through out the entire repair. But I was surprised when it all worked properly! I was sure I had torn a ribbon cable, forgot something or put something in backwards. Not sure I would do one again.

pwatton2003 - 07/12/16

I have a 2015 3DS XL and the top screen needs to be replaced. I noticed there are multiple top screens replacements out there, does anyone know the correct top screen I need to order? Or where I can find a model # to match against?

3dsdj - 23/12/16

I have the 2013 3DS XL Mario and Luigi Dream team edition, not sure what screen to order

Kfalls fan - 26/02/17

Where did this guy find the screwdrivers? Cause i need those, one day i will do a teardown.

Santi12008 - 03/03/17

Ottima Guida.

Seguendo i passi si riesce a completare il lavoro perfettamente.(occhio a rimontare il modulo IR al contrario di come rappresentato in foto, altrimenti quando si accende la Ds non visualizza niente a schermo; c'è scritto anche sulla nota a fianco della foto.

Le difficoltà maggiori sono nel far passare il cavo flat del nuovo LCD che deve essere attorcigliato attorno al cavo verde antenna.

Buon lavoro e grazie Ifix.

Gianluca - 11/03/17

Hey there. Just followed the guide and finished the replacement of the top screen. Current predicament is that the system is charging (orange LED comes on) but it will not turn on. I tried reseating the wifi board, resat most of the ribbon cables, and double checked everything again. I do not have the pop sound that some others have been having. When I push the power button, the screens stay black but the orange charging light does turn off for a moment before coming back on.

I know that this 3DS XL turned on before starting the upper LCD replacement.

Nools McSpanner - 04/08/17

Replacing the upper screen is definitely not easy but I did it! As already stated by others: Putting the ribbon cables back through the hinge is the worst part and I think it is absolutely necessary to disassemble the hinge and take the two halves of the 3DS XL apart, like in the already mentioned YouTube video.

So – for the most part – this is a good guide with good pictures. But the last steps, removing the ribbons from the hinge and putting them back, need additional instructions and possibly more photos. Pulling them out of the hinge without complete disassembly will most likely tear the ribbons.

I did this repair for the first time and it took me several hours. If you want to do this: Take your time and be extra careful. I recommend watching some videos AND using this guide. The retaining flaps are very fragile. If you break one, that’s probably equal to a “Game Over” for your console.

Kara_S - 08/11/17

Yes, i have tried to get mine back together and i have put in the ribbon cables in backwards? The one that goes to the back side of the board (black stripe) and the smaller and larger one on the front of the motherboard. This will be the 3rd time i try it, i am triple checking everything, i am so close, i will not give up. Please everyone, check everything several times to save yourself a lot of grief. Take care and good luck on your repairs!

Anthony - 03/02/19

I did it. My son had cracked his upper LCD on his New 3DS XL. It took about 3.5hrs. As said before, you have to take the hinge apart. I followed the YouTube video but slowed it down to 1/4 speed. Also, use a #00 screwdriver as mentioned above by Vannicke Trabeitt

dalemcbroom - 06/01/18

Check out my video of how to get the ribbon cable through the hinge, which is the hardest part of this repair:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAUEms0X...

djrpascu - 09/09/18

At the display glas part definitely use gloves. I ruined this last step out of my fatty fingers and a wrong display cleaner.

Julian - 31/10/18

My top screen repair is going to give me anxiety. OH GOD. I don’t like the ribbon cable positioning.

anticream39 - 07/04/19

This guide does not show you HOW to put the ribbon table through the hole some use the hinge removal and the metal ring on the other side but sadly the guide stops before you can complete this project. I use a toothpick and tape the end of the ribbon cable and roll it up a little and feed it through the hinge hole. I NOW have to replace the whole shell on a black one because its all cracked and has come away from the console.

michael v - 16/08/19

I lost the B button in the process lmao. everything went pretty well. no thanks to this guide. everything is super easy on your own up to the hinge and reattaching the top screen. which isn’t even mentioned in the guide. thanks, Connor. you saved my repair from disaster

Ethan Pimm - 24/10/19

I got it all back together and it does not power on. I have the IR board correct. I assume one of the cables is upside down. How can you tell the correct orientation of the cable when clamping them down?

Pharkas Gammer - 17/12/19

small upper right cable in step 18 needs to have metal contacts facing upwards!!!! Most other cables have contacts facing the motherboard. This should be mentioned in the steps.

Pharkas Gammer - 17/12/19

This guide would be really helpful if I was told (preferably in detail) step-by-step on how to put my 3DS XL back together. Especially step 26. I’ve had the worst time trying to find a tutorial that properly tells me how to pop my outer case back into my system.

Cynthia - 31/10/20

Thanks for putting this guide together. Needed a quick refresher so I didn’t end up breaking things even more than they already were.

The only thing that I think might be helpful is putting the info about how to unlock the hinge for removal. I feel like a lot of people might of missed the link that some very kind people posted in the comments section, judging by some of the comments here. It definitely drove me crazy trying to figure out how to break it down years ago… Maybe it easier to find now.

Thanks again.

Matthew D. H. - 01/03/21

will the 3ds xl boot up if i do not have the camera that goes in the front?

David Ibarra - 04/05/21

My friend accidentally microwaved his 3ds xl when he was younger. i am fixing right now. the two ribbon cables aboce the white joystick box are fried. any idea on where i can get the two new cables?

Andrew Henneberg -