Philips Norelco BG2040/34 BodyGroom 7100 Akku tauschen

Heed Sharak's advice from the comments - removing the two screws under the trimmer allows you to slide off the plastic cover easily. I broke half of the tabs on mine trying to get it off, I wish I had known this before I started.

If it doesn't charge, maybe it's because there is no contact between the extrrnal charge pin (figure in step 4) and the internal metal pin.

It happens to me...

Step 2 should note that the plastic (silver) cover should slide downward in order for it to come off, that makes it a whole lot easier. Otherwise the plastic clips will likely break.

Mine won't run. When I put it on the charger the green light is solid green but no power? I checked the connections twice with no success. Also would it be ok to use electrical tape to tape the connectors to the batteries? I have brand new eneloop batteries. Frustrated!

Thank you so much for the guide! Worked great! Wanting to do this for a long time. No need to buy a new one now :)

Done! Thanks so much for taking the time to create this tutorial. The only suggestion I have to offer is to be very careful placing the tabs from the wires if you choose not to solder. I originally did that and ended up with a short, making my batteries extremely hot very quickly. I took that as a sign to solder them, to make certain they don't move around on me. Works like a champ! Thanks!

I have a couple of questions.

I was able to get it done all the way up to step 8.

I am using Energizer rechargable batteries (700mAh)

I have been struggling with the metallic plate that is supposed to make contact. It seems like is making contact, but when i put the piece back inside the unit, the buttons dont work.

I have noticed that when I put the metallic place to make contact with the batteries and the metal outside the casing, it gets really hot really fast. But when it makes contact with one of them, the unit turns on as soon as i put the piece in, but buttons do not work.

I was reading about copper tape. has anyone tried that?

Thanks

Hi, I am trying to change battery pack on my Philips Body Groom (exactly the same of this Norelco). I have a doubt about the charger. I checked the voltage of its recharging by a tester and mine is at 11V. Is it normal to overcharge a 2,4V battery pack with so high voltage? Could be my battery gone because of that overcharging voltage? Thanks for any reply. Regards

Can I use AA batteries instead of AAA??

works like charm. I replaced batteries with eneloop 4th generation. thank you so much.

Holy crap, this actually worked for me! I used the batteries recommended and a small phillips screwdriver and flathead screwdriver. Needle nose pliers helped too. The batteries fit and I only used electrical tape, stretched tightly over the connections. I didn't want to spend extra money on a soldering iron or opening tool. (Didn't make sense to buy all that bc I wasn't sure this would work)

Let's see how long this fix lasts. Thank you!

Hallo,

I have a question, that i hope you can answer. I gave the exact same shaver as the one in your video. Mine was getting old, the rubbers that keep it waterproof broke down and battery life is poor now. I managed to get a hold of a new shaver, but it didn't come with the charger. But not a problem, cause i have one, i thought. But the new shaver won't charge on the older charger. The green led does blink (indicating it charges) but with a different frequency from the older one (slower). Did Philips change the internals on the newer ones maybe?

Thanks for the guide, it saved me 70+ bucks. The key to problem-free installation, in my opinion, is to use batteries that have flat end on the plus and to not solder. The heat from the soldering kills the batteries.

Thanks very much for this. I've had one of these for about 4 years now and the battery was always awful. Just finished installing two eneloop battery replacements and so far all seems okay, the green light is flashing so I assume it's charging okay. I didn't use any solder, just a tiny bit of tape and the pressure from the batteries fitting. Fingers crossed it puts some life back into the unit! Thanks again.

Thanks bunch! I bought one of these used on eBay a couple years ago and they never held a charge for longer than 10-15 mins. So I hardly ever use them. But I got inspired to research my options this week and found this tutorial. I had some spare Eneloops laying around, so I was ready to go. Worked perfectly. Glad I didn't opt to buy a new BodyGroom! Thanks!

I'm in doubt about the type of battery, need to be exactly a battery of 730mAh to 2.4v ??? more volts can? more mah can? thanks

Just want to say a big thank you for creating this. I was able to follow your instructions and get my batteries replaced. Shaver works better than new units since I'm using suggested batteries in this write-up and I think they are better than those generics.

Success! Swapped for Eneloop AAAs and the device is charging and working properly again! I did a pretty ratchet job with electrical tape on the batteries and metal prong connectors, but they still snapped in and managed to stay in place to work properly. Also watch out for connecting the batteries the right way, mine were backwards and started sparking at first until I realized they were incorrect. Overall very happy with this successful repair.

Just used this guide to fix to I'm very grateful. Those batteries though are pretty standard - at least in manufacturing. I bought them off the shelf over the internet but no, you are very unlikely to find them in any typical consumer store.

What is the voltage of this battery? I'm not sure of what kind of battery to get.

Replaced mine with Ansmann 1.2v NiMh 1100mAh AAA batteries. They were out of an old remote so only part charged, they charged perfectly and have been working fine ever since.

Physicist here. The tutorial is very good! Thanks a lot for the effort! I replaced the batteries with two Eneloop AAA as well (no soldering) and everything works like a charm! No issues with charging...

I have one of these and the orange light would start flashing within seconds of me starting it, if I kept trimming I was OK, but the second I stopped or tried to change to the other trimming function, then that was that, stone dead, end of trimming.

So I didn't stop it, I left it running and I found it just kept going, for over half an hour with the orange light flashing all the time. When it finally died, I charged it again, which took much longer and now it seems to be working well again. It was like it had 'battery memory' and I got past it by leaving it running.

I'm currently 'exhausting' the battery again (20 mins so far) and then I'm going to see how I get on after that. It might not help those whose batteries are too far gone to start the trimmer, but it might help one or two prolong the life of the unit.

Maybe Philips should say in the instructions that the battery needs to be fully depleted and fully charged every once in a while, like you used to have to do with old mobile phones.

Confirmed that it works, i changed the batteries yesterday and it works perfect. bought eneloop 750mAh, i didnt eve solder the connections, the compartment housing the batteries is so tight that it holds the wires firm.

Thanks a lot and my respects to Tim and all who contributed to this guide .

Awesom-o.

I have a tt2040 from 2009.

I bought it for 55 euros.

Nowadays the same crap costs 79 euros!!!

Philips you suck.

Anyway, offcourse after 7 years the battery were worn down.

So i used this tutorial. It was GREAT amd word like charm.

One hard part was to remove the metal flaps from the old batteries because philips soldered them.

So i pried them with i small flathead screwdriver.

I replaced with eneloop batteries WITH pre soldered flaps

Used some eletric tape and voila. Everyting worked and stikl works.

I also replaced the shaving head for 15 euros.

I performed this replacement with the ENELOOP AAA rechargeable batteries.

Notes, scuffing up the terminals on the batteries was necessary to get good adherence of the solder.

I found good results with using the needlenose pliers to gently and slowly (s o s l o w l y) pry away the terminal connectors. They're not soldered to start, so it's a little weird. Then I had to smash down the bent up terminals to make them flat again. I imagine that this battery replacement will only be possible a couple times before that metal eventually fails.

Don't be too startled when you're putting it back together and you accidentally turn the thing on. Startling! :) But harmless.

Good luck all! Thanks for the guide!

Worked well with no soldering, tested for 1 day so far. Will solder later if corrosion or circuit break occurs, but it appears that it does not need it. Great cost saver here - saved at least $50, and had the beneficial knowledge of the pride of DIY fixing!

I used the 900mAh Eneloop Pros. Worked like a charm. Didn't weld the connectors, just used electrical tape. Removing the original battery connectors was really hard and took a long time. I scraped them off with a small flat screw driver. They didn't come off in perfect conditions so I straightened them out a bit afterwards. Putting the back cover was also a bit of a challenge!

Thanks a lot for this guide.

I put in a pair of GP 1000 AAA, which fit (just) and used scotch tape to fix the connectors to the batteries. Worked well. Thank you for a great tutorial, I would likely have not attempted this otherwise.

replaced with eneloops in mine as well - worked relatively ok, had an issue with me having to push the buttons several times before it actually started, then it worked fine if i didnt turn it off during a shave. Read the post about depleting batteries to accomodate battery memory in the controller.

After depleting the batteries I found out that my charger does not charge the batteries :/ It blinks green but i cannot turn on the shaver even after hours of charging, it just blinks orange 8 times... any good advice on what to try :)

For all this trouble and then the batteries are not that cheap. Better to buy a new unit….. Less hassle.

Worked with 2XGP1000 without soldering and with tape.The charger works also with GP1000.

Thanks for the great tutorial! Fixed mine with Panasonic eneloop AAA’s and gaffer tape. Charges and works flawless. The last post above me.. NT, has no idea what he’s talking about. Pack of 4 eneloop’s was $16 CAN and I only need 2. The other2 can go in my tv converter. This shaver costs $150 in Canada! Philips/Norelco should be ashamed of themselves to build an expensive shaved to throw away! Shame!

Thanks for the tutorial, i’ve changed the batteries on a European model Philips Series 7000 All-in-one Bodygroom Pro, and works like a charm.

I’ve used GP AAA 800mAh batteries and it worked even better than original battery pack.

My unit was originally from the UK (there it went by the name Philips TT2040), but the innards were exactly the same.

Used a pair of old (Sanyo) AAA eneloops. It took a bit of force to get the batteries in place (as noted, they felt a bit oversize, but I wasn’t sure if it was my shoddy soldering, or the actual enclosure size). On the first try, the module was not aligned properly - I was getting 8 orange flashes on button presses and no reaction on the charger. Once I managed to insert the module correctly, with all the pins/slots touching correctly, it started working like a charm.

I purchased Panasonic Eneloop AAA rechargeable batteries ($6.95 4-pack on Amazon). This repair was quite simple and the guide is perfect. I had no issues with performing the battery swap. The only issue I had; I did not have the electric package seated fully, just make sure you press it fully into the cavity.

TIP: one trick to soldering to batteries. Use a fine metal file and just rough up the surface of the battery contacts. just want to take the shine off of them with the file. They will take solder without issue and little effort. The bonus is you can place the solder perfectly in the location you want it to stay.

I just did this replacement. I recommend against standard AAA with the nipples, instead get flat-top NiMH AAA batteries with solder tabs pre-attached. You can buy them pretty cheap on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Exell-Rechargeabl...

https://www.amazon.com/Combo-Battery-sol...

Then you can make a decent connection with soldering optional as follows. Fold/clamp the solder tabs on the free end with a spare solder tab or the one from the old batteries. Do the same with the wires on the other end. Optionally, solidify the connection with solder if desired. This way you only need to solder the solder tabs together, don’t have to solder the battery directly and risk damage, fire, or explosion.

Thanks for the guide. Soldered in eneloop AAAs. Solder seemed to adhere ok to the terminals on the battery. The terminals heated up a bit but didn't seem to do any damage to the cell. (Although I wasn't trying to heat the connector like in a proper solder job, really just heating the solder enough to drip it on the terminal, then heating it again once on the terminal to stick the slightly mangled tab into it. The soldered batteries were a little bigger than the originals but the end of the battery holder bent enough to get them in(used a bit of good electrical tape to hold them in since the tabs were now spread a bit too for the smaller circuit board to clip in and hold them properly) and the holder snapped back into the shaver body fine. Got a flashing orange light even though the batteries were mostly charged, so popped the shaver on the charger and it charged for 15 mins or so and then went full green. Shaver works fine and seems stronger than new now. Will update if any changes or problems…….

OK, I’m an expert at this.

1: ONLY get “flat top” Nimh AAA batteries, Those with nipple will NOT work, too long!

2: Soldering batteries is OK! BUT! Use good clean hot iron, FRESH flux.

Lightly sand ends of batt. very fine sandpaper, then apply flux, then tin both ends

(tin= apply light coat of solder) tin wires also.

3: Now solder wires to batt, quickly. have helper hold for you.

4: You DID put heat shrink tubing on wire BEFORE you soldered wire… didn’t you???

5: batts. with tabs that are flat top will not need sanding, fluxing, tinning (duh)

6: As soon as solder hardens, blow on batt. to cool.

7: If u were stupid enough to try to JAM nipple batts. into this TIGHT unit, U WILL NOT get

the contacts to connect and you WILL get a flashing orange light.

Any questions? then ReRead from #1 !

Okay I changed out the batteries to the Eneloop AAA rechargeable ones and at first everything was good the unit was charging. However, I think something must have shorted out because it would not charge no more after that. Now I did not solder the batteries just put them on and one thing I do notice is that the big black chip on the board gets very hot. However, I am lost I do not know what to do now.

Thanks for posting this guide Tim. I just successfully replaced my BG2040’s batteries with two Eneloops. I went with electric tape instead of soldering and still managed to jam everything back in there. Everything tested fine. Fingers crossed it lasts. My old battery was on death’s door, so this is already way better.

I purchased two enaloops that had tabs welded to them then using the peace of metal for the original battery soldered the two together, all is working perfectly good work people made working out how to take it apart far easier

Works just fine ! Dit werkt perfect , hartelijk dank voor deze How to .

I also purchased two Enaloops , same as above !

I replaced the batteries two years ago with eneloop pro AAA batteries and it worked well for 1.5 yrs. Then it started to shut down after about 10 minutes of use.

I opened the unit and tested old batteries using ZTS MBT-1. Oddly, it showed 80%. Shaver didn’t run and would blink orange.

Regardless. I put 2 new batteries in it, and exactly same behavior!

Did another test. Disengaged the trimmer blade and let the motor run to see when it shuts off. It ran for solid 2 hours before it shut off, but still the batteries were not depleted (about 60%). I did this test to make sure that there is no timer on the chip that’s causing it.

Then followed the advice that batteries should be depleted when installed. Took out the batteries, depleted all juice in them. Installed and let the shaver charge. Took out the batteries, charged at 100%. Depleted again and put them back to charge. The overall behavior very slightly improved, but in the end, shaver shuts down at 80% charge. Blades are lubed and running smoothly.

Any Ideas?

For people from Europe, I bought the battery on the following link…works fine

https://www.akku-wechsel.de/shop/tt2040

I underestimated how difficulty it is to get the cable terminals and tabs off the battery. Those things are soldered tight and it’s near impossible to do the job and leave them intact. Most of the soldered parts remain stuck to the original batteries . Fortunately, I was able to strip off more of the contacts from the cables. I did a ratchet job with electrical tape (it was an ordeal to keep the contacts in place) and depend on the pressure from the batteries being jammed into the battery case to hold everything in place. I used partly depleted Eneloop AAA batteries. I haven’t used the trimmer yet so I’m not sure if the contacts will stay in place under vibration. First time DIYers should expect a whole lot of frustration and panic.

The trimmer began to charge after I pushed out the spring contacts a little to engage with the charging pins. Took about 30 minutes to charge the batteries. Haven’t tested how long it’ll hold a charge.Thanks Tim for the clear guide and warning. Thought all was lost a few times.

Thank you for this post with a great description for replacing the batteries. I have an old BG2040 and your instructions worked real well. I got the batteries from Amazon with tabs and just cut them to length and tinned them and the tabs I had pulled (with pliers) off the existing batteries and everything went back together perfectly. I’m now charging it, we’ll see how that goes, should be OK, I accidently turned both the trimmer and shaver on several times during putting it back together and it doesn’t stall after trimming mustache with the charge that came in the new batteries (like the original batteries after a full charge). The Amazon order was:

Combo: 2 Pcs - AAA NiMh 800/850 mAh Flat Top Battery with solder tabs for Electric Shavers, Razors and Battery Packs

The battery holder will hold 2 standard AAAs just fine. They are the same overall length as the OEM batteries. The only difference is that the positive contacts protrude on a regular battery, and are flush with the case on the OEM battery. But the overall length is the same.

Thanks for the instructions, did the whole job and replaced with 2 Eneloop batteries.

Amazing guide! All the covers removed easily. I had trouble with rubber cover (no iOpener tool here) but after few minutes with an old bank card I was able to remove it. I’ve used GP 1000 mAh batteries and even though they were not “flat-top” they fit perfectly well. No soldering required (even though I had my soldering iron ready) just some scotch tape and when batteries are inside the compartment there is simply no way they could detach—it fits them very tight! I’ve run it idle (without attachments) in order to discharge but even after 2.5 hours it was still working, though with attachments it will be less but still a major improvement over original 750 mAh batteries (especially the old ones).

Delicate touch needed throughout this process. Begin with a clean, flat working area. Followed these instructions and it worked perfectly. Could not have completed without them.

I followed the instructions and it worked perfectly. I used a phone batteries pack (AAA 2.4v 700mAh nimh) with wires. I joined wires with the ones on the board. Soldered them. Puted shrink wrap. Removed the plastic on the pack to fit it. It’s holding the charge better than a brand new Bodygroom.

https://www.batteriesexpert.com/en/small...

Great to see people everywhere having a go at repairing. Always have a go!

I finally got to this and was able to successfully put this together. The soldering was a pain and I had to switch to using aluminum foil to keep the wire in contact with the battery terminals. Thanks again for this guide. It was super helpful !

After weeks of deliberation, I bought some batteries from eBay, followed the guide (also watched a few youtube videos of the same project). And finally did this project. The instructions and comments really helped, so make sure you read them all.

I didn’t solder, just used thin strips of electrical tape. I also reinforced the white wires that join to the board, so that they didn’t break while manoeuvring everything around.

The end result was a perfectly working shaver, best AU$15 spent. Managed to save a device going to landfill and save AU$120 in the process.

Tim, many thanks for this detailed guide, still helpful in 2020 for repairing my old Philips Body Groomer. Took me 2h15min because I had trouble getting a snug fit for the battery housing. The two new batteries were shrink wrapped together and I had to cut the bottom part away to get them low enough in the cavity. I agree entirely with your views on companies building rechargeable products whose batteries only last two years - it would be so easy to modify the battery housing to accept a simple push fit and at least make the replacement quicker! Cheers. Alan Craig.

Excellent instruction and I was able to install battery that I purchased from china for $1 piece and I solder the battery and it housed and it works great.

I just did this with my 7 year old shaver, it was a challenge, took some time to get everything to fit right I used the BT-1008 battery pack from Amazon, 3 of them for $7.50. One note on fit, I removed the outer wrap from the battery pack to make it fit deeper in the battery holder. It all worked really well, a soldering iron and a little electrical tape made it all go together pretty well…. Shaver saved, nice cost savings. Thank you.

From a PhD EE - The comment about a device designed for NiCd batteries being unable to charge NiMH batteries is incorrect, all of the charging strategies used for NiCd are equally effective for NiMH cells. The type of smart-charger used in this product delivers a rapid charge using a peculiar property common to both NiCd and NiMH batteries to terminate rapid charging and switch to trickle charging for a fixed time period before stopping completely. As NiCd and NiMH cells are charged the cell voltage gradually rises, but after it is nearly fully charged the cell voltage slowly falls. At this point charged cells start to heat up rapidly so the charge control IC switches to a low-rate charge for a fixed time before switching off all together. Heat was used by early 30 minute chargers for laptops and RC toys. NiCd cells tolerate heating better than NiMH in the sense that a 250 cycle NiCd and a 1000 cycle NiMH both last less than 100 cycles using a temperature terminated rapid charger.

From a PhD EE - The internal charge controller in these shavers seems to keep track of how much running time it can accumulate between charges before the battery voltage drops below 1.00v/cell. It will refuse to allow the shaver to start to run if either the battery voltage is low or the charge controller thinks it’s running time is depleted. This strategy for tracking the state of charge of a battery pack can’t track the self-discharge rate of the battery. When the shaver sits unused the battery self discharges and becomes depleted quickly setting a low running time. A very short time allows the shaver to be turned on just once between charges. Likewise when a battery is replaced the chip still retains the estimated life of the battery that was replaced. One way to get the chip to use a longer running time is to charge the shaver and start it and leave it running until it stops because the battery voltage falls too low then charge it fully.

I have just installed these batteries, they fit ok

https://www.reichelt.com/gb/en/eneloop-2...

After 7yrs of use, the batteries in my Bodygroomer finally died! They refused to recharge. The batteries in my unit were green colored Suppo HSY-AAA0.75-PHP NiMH 750mAh. I replaced them with Eneloop AAA 800 mAh, bought for $5.70 off Lazada Thailand, for a 4 pack. Because I’m not home, I wasn’t able to solder. I used electrical tape instead. The battery pack has a snug fit in the unit, so I’m hoping the electrical tape holds. Once I return home, I’ll solder the connections. Disassembly was not difficult for me. My biggest issue was prying the metal tabs off the batteries. I used a pocket knife to scrape them off, being extra careful not to break them. The eneloops came pre-charged, so I was able to see if the bodygroomer turned on, and I did. It’s currently on the charge stand. Thanks for the “How To!”

Great Guide! Worked like a charm. AAA was definitely hard to get into the space but it made it in.

Eneloop AAA is what I used.

Just did this today. Used Enloop AAA batteries. I also used foil and electrical tape to hold certain electrical parts down. Everything works! Just need to get home and test out the charging stand. Cheers!

Excellent write-up. Followed the steps today for my repair. Unsure of the replacement brand given, Batteries Plus locally made a custom cell pack on the spot after seeing the expired batteries from the trimmer. They tested voltage, soldered tabs, and installed everything into the housing. Just over $10 for everything. Highly recommend for those like me without all the tools and experience/expertise with soldering. Returning home, re-assembling carefully has seen functionality return equal if not better than before. Time to open: 10 minutes, including removal of the battery pack. Trip to the store took around an hour all in. Re-installation another 25 minutes, taking caution not to force anything and also missing the separate button panel initially. Thanks!

I added 2 AAA Amazon Basic rechargeable batteries, works just fine! Thanks!

kudos to author :)

I got my batteries from here:

https://www.akku-wechsel.de/shop/akku-fu...

I just drilled a small holes in each connector, so it was easy to solder them to the wires. The whole process took me less than half an hour, even with my almost non existing soldering skills.

kudos to author :)

I got my batteries from here:

https://www.akku-wechsel.de/shop/akku-fu...

I just drilled a small holes in each connector (already installed to battery), so it was easy and fast to solder them to the wires. The whole process took me less than half an hour, even with my almost non existing soldering skills.

Thank you so much for this!! The battery pack I bought on Amazon I didn’t need to solder. So it made it much easier.

Great info. Well explained. Good pics. I was successful Got it working. The problem was the bottom of the batteries. The connection was broken. I soldered the break. 1/2 hr charge & it fired up. I’m 71 & love to tinker. I win some & lose some. Thnx. Bob.

Thank you, worked wonderfully!

I ordered a Kastar battery pack from Amazon. It comes assembled, with solder tabs welded onto the terminals. I peeled off the welded foil tabs from the original battery pack and soldered the ends onto the new battery tabs. It works great. The battery pack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CCF...

I ordered a Kastar battery pack from Amazon for $8.99. It comes with two solder tabs welded onto the terminals. I peeled off the welded foil tabs on the orignal battery pack and soldered the ends onto the new battery tabs. No damage to the new battery and it works great. The battery pack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CCF...

Thanks from the Netherlands for the great and really detailed guide! Although I own a slightly different type, the assembly is almost identical. I managed to buy a kit of 2 spot welded AAA Nimh batteries of 1000Ah each. Hope these will last longer and better than the original ones which are rubbish.

Thanks for this excellent guide. I used the same Kastar pack mentioned above, nipped off the battery wires as close to the tab as I could, trimmed off the remaining heatshrink from the wires and then soldered them to the Kastar pack's pre-fitted tabs. I may have lost a millimeter or two of length by just chopping them but the Kastar pack's tabs are long enough that everything still went back together. The batteries are labelled 1000mAh vs 750mAh OEM ones. Appears to be working fine and glad to have avoided the cost and waste of replacing the entire device. The throwaway design of items like this is shameful.

Thanks for this tutorial - The device has the same base builtin as a Philips TT2039 and I just successfully completed the replacement
I'm not a soldering guy so I asked a local tech store to replace the batteries in the battery pack. But very doable for disassembling and assembling again if you're not afraid.
Cost me 20€ which is now a new working device.

Thank you to the author and the community, very helpful!

My experience was the following:

-North American 7000 model, had the green Suppo batteries

-replaced with two Amazon rechargeable NiMH AAA batteries; they fit fine

-used electrical tape, didn't (have) solder

-hardest part was to put back on the black cover over the battery/switch unit, had to to squeeze its body into place, took some time! I didn't find that a tool helped here much, used my fingers to squeeze it in. Be careful not to snap this thing.

-initially the battery/LED unit blinked 8 times in orange, when not attached to the shaver; once attached, I charged it, it blinked green, until a solid green. works as expected.

-didn't read until later, other comments about installing depleted batteries first, but my already charged batteries seem to be working fine and can charge.

The right name of the battery form factor is AAAU. Not AAA.

I just ordered the OEM batteries from AliExpress (GS Yuasa 2.4V NiMH) for AU14.78 including delivery. The only down side is the expected delivery is May 7 so around 8 weeks. The batteries come complete with soldered bridge and end connections so should make the repair much easier also.