Einleitung

This guide will detail how to remove the Apple G5's main power supply.

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    • To avoid electrocution, shut down the computer. Do not open the computer or attempt to install any items inside it while the computer is on.

    • To avoid being burned, wait at least 10 minutes to allow the computer's internal components to cool.

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    • Remove all the cables, including the power cables before opening the unit.

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    • Lift the tab to unlock the side panel.

    • The panel should fall out. If the panel does not fall out by itself pull a little from the edges.

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    • Remove the air deflector (the clear plastic cover) by pulling on the handle.

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    • Locate the front fan assembly.

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    • Pull the fan assembly out; it should slide out easily.

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    • The cooling fan unit is located on the bottom right of the Apple G5 Desktop.

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    • Remove the G5 metal cover from the processing/cooling unit of the computer. NOTE: Apple inserted a rather fragile plastic pin that inserts through the top divider shield and clips into a tab on the hidden ledge of this CPU shield. Removing this pin, certainly voided Mac's warranty - but more appropriate for now, voids most after-market insurance plans. A replacement pin (new) is hard to get ahold of, and very few are talented and patient enough to remove this pin without damaging it. Just something to keep in mind. If you have no warranty any longer or don't care, please continue...

    • Pull the metal plate to the left and outward to remove the plate from the processing/cooling unit.

    The whole pin assembly acts like a miniature toggle bolt. The inner part of the pin assembly is actually a short stubby cylinder. When the pin is inserted into the sleeve, it presses on the sleeve and expands it slightly in the processor shield, locking it to the top divider shield.

    I took a tiny drill bit and spun it into the center of the pin just enough so that I could insert a small sharp screw (I used a cup hook) into the pin. All it needed was just a slight tug, and the pin came out of the outer locking sleeve. I used the same screw to remove the outer sleeve.

    Steve -

    I was able to push the bottom part of the shield to the left and unhook the bottom first. I then took a long wooden skewer (18" long) and pushed the center pin out. I then took a pair of needle nose pliers and gripped the two flared ends of the outer sleeve and squeezed them together and pushed the sleeve out of the hole. It was actually pretty easy this way and there was no damage to the pin or the sleeve.

    cuchetti -

    Take a flat head screwdriver and lift a little on the top plate on the top of the cover so as to lift the plastic part slightly. Apply pressure near the top of the plastic keeper and separate it slightly from the metal. Take a box cutter blade and apply pressure around the outside not on the center of the pin. Once you can separate the pin a little from the outside edge take a long strand of glide dental floss and rope it around the pin inside the plastic holder and pull up. Do the same to the outer keeper piece and VOILA!

    Ann Zevely -

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    • Locate the bottom right fan.

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    • Unplug the fan's power cable from the upper rightmost corner of the motherboard (connection J45). If there is a video card in place, carefully pull the cable plug down between the back edge of the video card and the motherboard. Note, the photo shows the unplugged cable and the area it plugs into outlined in yellow. No video card is shown in this photo.

    To disconnect the cable, it's easier to remove all the cards. I had filled up all 4 slots and I need to space to get my hand in there to disconnect the cable.

    Lawrence -

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    • Locate the tabs on the fan unit.

    • While pushing in on the tabs, highlighted in yellow, pull the fan back towards the cooling unit.

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    • After the latches are out, pull the fan out.

    Before pulling fan, you must unplug fan power cable from upper right-most corner of mother board (connection J45). Carefully pull cable down past the video card's back-side.

    Sam Taylor -

    Thank you for this mention. It seems important, do you have a snapshot of it?

    Is it hard to find/reach?

    And plugging it back in with the new one, any problems?

    Thanks!

    Diana -

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    • After removal of the bottom right fan the space should look like this.

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    • Locate the Cooling Unit on the Apple G5.

    • Put the CPU case on its back with the opening facing up to make the next steps easier.

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    • Unscrew 8 T10 screws from the cooling unit. NOTE: these screws are acctually allen keys. The prefered tool will be long handled allen keys. t10 are 2.74mm (closest allen key is 2.5 or 3mm) and t15 are 3.27mm(closest allen key is 3mm and 4mm). You may strip your tool or the actual screws themselves. Use a set of high quality long handled allen keys.

    • The screws are somewhat hidden, so they cannot be see in the picture.

    • To visualize the location of the screws look 3 steps ahead.

    • The screws will loosen but will not come out, they are designed to loosen the unit, but remain in place.

    • The last two images show another version of the LCS (out of the computer) in the G5 with off-center views to show the 8 screw holes.

    that looks completely different and I can't unscrew it :/

    grze -

    Did you find a solution for yours? I may have the same problem.

    jaesonk -

    Very difficult on some models.

    Nate Aguilar -

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    • Pull the cooling/processing unit straight up to prevent damage to logic board

    • This will require some effort and should be done with caution to avoid damage.

    • The sleeves around the 6 screws may hold it in, if so just take a pair of needle nose pliers and gently squeeze the sleeves until it releases.

    • Pull the bottom, then side towards the bottom of the CPU case, first to move around the bottom coolant sleeve around the heat sinking bracket. *heat sinking bracket not in picture*

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    • Disconnect the cable.

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    • NOTE: Here are the standoffs without the cooling unit installed to make it easier to understand where the screws are located. Remove the bottom 2 standoffs so it is easier to remove the power supply.

    • Check the pin connections for any damage. All the pins highlighted in yellow should appear straight up and not appear bent. DON'T TOUCH THE PINS. A bent pin will result in your computer not powering on.

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    • Locate the power supply in the Apple G5 computer. It is located under the metal plate at the bottom of the computer case.

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    • Undo the clip shown by pulling up on the edge closest to the RAM slots.

    • Unplug the black rectangular plug with a rounded top by pulling outwards.

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    • Undo the clip shown by pulling up on the edge.

    • Unplug the cord that is located below where the cooling unit was. To do this, pull outwards.

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    • Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the power supply cover on.

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    • Remove the power supply cover.

    • This will require some bending, be sure not to bend the metal too much to prevent damage to the metal

    • Pull the metal cover up slightly and out of the computer to prevent damage to the logic board.

    You don't need to bend anything if you unscrew the lowest studs. The one with pozidrive head is an easy one, but the two round ones which hold the heat sink are quite a challenge. You need to put a nail into the hole which is perpendicular to the stud and turn everything left. You'll unscrew it and the shield comes out without any bending. Step #24 will be easier too.

    Do Mel -

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    • Remove the 4 Philips screws on the underside of the computer case.

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    • Carefully pull the power supply out of the case.

    • Do not completely remove the power supply since it is still attached to a cable.

    Having issue taking out the PSU after removing cover and screws from bottom. It's loose, but the toggle bolts for the LCS seem to be in the way. Did anyone figure a way around this?

    Lawrence -

    ok a little more brute force and i got it out and was able to disconnect the last power cord in the front lower corner.

    Lawrence -

    I Seem too Be stuck At Step # 25 my PSU HAS 9 L-SHAPED BRACKETS ATTACHED TO IT WHICH IS ALSO MOUNTED TO THE MOBO FROM UNDERNEATH....AND AFTER REMOVING ALL 9 T10 TORX SCREWS, WIRES AND CLIPS I STILL SEEM NOT TO HAVE ENOUGH CLEARANCE TO REMOVE THE PSU...... Apple Power Supply PowerMac G5 A1177 710W 614-0368  DPS-710BB---THIS IS THE PSU MODEL THAT I'M TRYING TOO REMOVE AND REPLACE....HAS ANYONE HAD THIS SITUATION AND FOUND A SOLUTION....ALLAN..6/25/16

    Allan Sinclair -

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    • Unplug the final cable attached to the power supply from the computer.

    • Now the power supply should come out of the computer freely.

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    • The bottom of the computer should look like this when removal of the power supply is complete.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Adam

Mitglied seit: 22/01/10

819 Reputation

12 Kommentare

Swap the Power Supply from G5 2.0 Dual 2004.

lunchbx2 -

Step #16 is kinda confusing on the last paragraph. Can anyone clarify.? Thanks.

Danno -

I followed this guide to replace the PSU in my 2x2.0 PCI G5 - it now works great. I'd like to add that my machine didn't boot right away, I needed to reset the SMU on the main Logic board several times and I also re-seated the RAM chips which seemed to cajole the old beast back into life. I replaced a 450W PSU with a 600W and all seems well so far. Many thanks to the team for posting this ifixit guide.

Chris Allen -

these Apple support notes are worth a look if you run into problems restarting a machine:

http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2652?viewl...

and

http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1436?viewl...

Chris Allen -

Finally - I would also like to add that this guide shows the CPU unit of what I think is one of the crazy liquid-cooled G5s that made a brief appearance in the Powermac range. The same steps still apply for the more common air-cooled models. The only difference being that my machine's CPU units were secured on their mountings with Allen-key type screws - not Torx screws. Doing this repair was not as difficult as you might think, I managed fine and I'm not a tech specialist.

Chris Allen -

The quad core G5 that I have in the UK requires the logic board to be removed before the power supply can be accessed.

Andrew Hinton -

That poor Mac!! All rusted.

Tyler LaPointe -

All this is very interesting, however, if anyone has the voltage and pinouts for a G5 quad CPU (dual/dual core - 2.5Ghz) - LiteOn 1000W TESLAconverter PSU, I would be very, very, interested.

bhbenton -

I love my power mac G5 but recently I encountered a problem with the power supply. It automatically shuts off after 10 mins. I called the service center here in the Phil but sad to say, the unit is already considered vintage. They no longer repair.

Racel Agca -

You should buy one from amazon and do the repair yourself, they’re like $50.

Calvin H -

More like $450 !

Sari -