PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1-1.5 GHz PRAM Battery Replacement

Geschrieben von: iRobot

Kommentare: 33

PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1-1.5 GHz PRAM Battery Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

The time and date, as well as other settings, are kept by the PRAM battery when your machine is off.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

G4 Aluminum 15" 1/1.25/1.33/1.5 GHz PRAM Battery

Schritt 1

Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
Lift the battery out of the computer.

Schritt 2

Remove the four Phillips screws from the memory door.
Slide the memory door away from the memory compartment.

Do you actually need to remove any of the screws on the underneath if you're just replacing a PRAM battery, or a hard drive? Aren't those only required if you're taking the whole logic board out?

Tom Anderson -

Schritt 3

Remove the following 8 screws:
Two 3 mm Phillips in the battery compartment, on either side of the battery contacts.
Two 9 mm Phillips on either side of the memory compartment.
Four 16 mm Phillips along the hinge.

Schritt 4

Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise, so that the power receptacle faces you.
Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.
When replacing these screws, you must place each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

Schritt 5

Turn the computer 90 degrees clockwise so that the hinge faces you.
Remove the bottom 5 mm Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two total).

The two "bottom" 5mm philips screws here are the ones closest to the display. (as shown in the image)

seos -

"Bottom" assumes you have the computer upside down. If you can see the Apple on the front, then remove the two "top" screws...

Kevin -

Schritt 6

Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise, so that the ports face you.
Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.
When replacing these screws, you must place each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

Schritt 7

Turn the computer over and open the display.
Remove the 4.2 mm 1/16" H 1.5 hex screws in either corner, next to the display (a T6 Torx driver will also do the job nicely).

I found that the T6 was too small but a T7 worked, with a little push downward to make it sit inside the hex head.

dougcabot -

My T6 worked very well on these 2 screws.

David Parker - 27/04/20

Schritt 8

This step covers the hardest part to get inside this computer. Take a deep breath and think happy thoughts.
Grasp the back corners of the upper case and pull up, disengaging hidden tabs on the sides. Do not pull the upper case off yet; you still need to free tabs in the front of the case.
The seam is beneath the plastic molding on the upper case.

I've opened the G4 four times. The official Apple way outlined above is vastly superior to the paper clip method. When you lower the screen side of the deck, a little bit of pressure toward you will easily release the clips. Definitely begin with the back (screen side) of the deck where you just remove the two T-6 screws.

wcwirla -

Schritt 9

There is one latch that stops you from pulling the upper case right off, located on the left side of the optical drive slit. To free the upper case, you will be pulling a thin metal latch toward you, freeing it from the clasp holding it in place.
Pry up the left side of the upper case slightly with your hand and wedge a spudger into the seam between the upper case and lower case.
Leave the tool in place applying pressure to the upper case for the next step.

This could really use a diagram to show exactly how the clip is structured. I didn't realize the clip was between the front of the case and the back support it attaches to, and it needs to be pried off that back support. (Evil Apple design - would it really hurt to have a screw underneath?). Overall these guides are fantastic! I just replaced a hard drive, and it worked great. And I LOVE the screw guide at the back - brilliant idea!

isonno -

Apple official disassembly guide suggests instead to lift the upper case from the back up to 45 degrees. Then while lowering it back gently wiggle the upper case and it does disengage the latches. No tools required, no risk of bending the case.

John -

This method worked perfectly for me. Lift at 45 degree angle and wiggle as slowly lower and it popped right off.

th3mamma - 28/01/16

Schritt 10

Place enough pressure on the upper case to allow you to slide a tool just within the seam between upper case and lower case as shown in the picture. A dentist's hook, push pin, or similar tool will work.
Do not yank the upper case off as soon as you free the clasp. The case is attached to the logic board via two ribbon cables.
Delicately slip the tip of your tool behind the silver metal latch and pull it forward while pulling up on the case. This may take some effort.
Alternatively, you can free the clasp with a small flathead screwdriver through the CD slot. The clasp is 1-3/16 in (3cm) from the left side of the slot. Use the screwdriver to lift out (or press back) the felt lining; then use the screwdriver to pull the clasp (shiny metal) forward to free it from the catch behind it (dull metal).

I was able to easily release the latch by putting the spudger in the optical drive slot, and gently prying up. You can see the three holes where the upper case clips in above the drive, and the clips are accessible through those holes from the optical drive slot.

ryan64 -

"Forward" (step 10) means toward the front. I was not able to release the latch this way. However, I did eventually release all three latches at once by very slightly lifting the rear of the cover and pressing the cover back toward the screen.

It is not necessary to remove the trackpad and keyboard cables (steps 12, 13, and 14) to replace the hard drive.

Pomo -

Zitat von Pomo:

"Forward" (step 10) means toward the front. I was not able to release the latch this way. However, I did eveIt is not necessary to remove the trackpad and keyboard cables (steps 12, 13, and 14) to replace the hard drive.

I find it useful to use a big rubber band to hold the keyboard up--put it around the keyboard and display.

colleenthompson -

I've done several of these before, but today it was a bear to accomplish. I finally did it by inserting a dental pick through the optical slot and pulling forward to release the clip. In case it will help someone else, pictures of the clip are at Devil Clip.

colleenthompson -

I did not find any clip to disengage to remove the top piece. I would like to have seen a picture of the clip after the the top was separated.

Oh, well. This guide is probably not much use to anyone any more.

Chrissy - 25/07/14

Schritt 11

Lift the back of the case up and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.
Rotate the upper case up and toward the screen, so that the upper case rests against it.

The top assembly for the A1138 model (1.67MHZ high res) does not have two ribbon cables to connect to the logic board as pictured.

Mike -

Schritt 12

Remove the orange tape securing the trackpad ribbon to the logic board.
Disconnect the trackpad ribbon from the logic board.

If you are just replacing a hard drive, you do not need to remove either the trackpad or the keyboard cables! They will not be in the way at all. Save yourself a headache.

dougcabot -

I agree - removing the cables is not necessary. I didn't even have a keyboard cable on my machine.

macbaen -

i agree, too:

steps 12 to 14 are NOT necessary for replacing the harddrive!

neither are 17 and 18!

instead:

after 10 continue with step 15.

instead of 17 and 18: free the hd carefully

from the case disconnect the hard drive cable from the hard drive.

valid - 11/05/14

Schritt 13

This is a diagram of the keyboard ribbon clamp connector you will disconnect in the next step.
1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).
2) After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

Be very careful! The clasps holding the black strip are extremely fragile and can snap very easily.

ChrisT4 -

Zitat von ChrisT4:

Be very careful! The clasps holding the black strip are extremely fragile and can snap very easily.

In fact it is possible to get to your hard drive and replace it without having to detach this ribbon at all and I would advise that if all you are doing is replacing your hard drive then skip this step.

ChrisT4 -

My laptop did not have the big gray keyboard ribbon but a short white one with a blue stripe at the end. Anyone knows if this is just a different setup?

afido -

my g, 15", 1.5Ghz pbk didn't have this cable at all. It's short white kbd cable attached to the trackpad, and it's orange ribbon cable (only) attached to the logic board as in step 12. lucky me.

gogreens -

Yes, the note about skipping this step should be up there, front and center. I followed this step and broke the bit of plastic. Now it's re-fastened with a piece of electrical tape, but I am annoyed because it was totally unnecessary to do that. How do we edit the front page to at least say "OPTIONAL" for this step?

Focus Fusion Society -

There should be a note on this to say this step is OPTIONAL. I followed instructions as written, broke the little plastic piece, and have taped it back together with electrical tape. But after replacing the hard drive, I see it was totally unnecessary to take this step. It's a high risk step, people should be warned.

Focus Fusion Society -

the diagram is a bit confusing, and the text is a bit confusing for non english speakers. when it said pull up a small amount, i thought you have to try and lift it from the motherboard. all you have to do is move the black plastic bit towards the screen with your fingernails and the broad thing plastic keyboard cable comes off.

Kiureli -

Schritt 14

Loosen the keyboard ribbon clamp by pushing the thin black piece toward the screen, using the tips of your fingers.
The black piece is very fragile and easily broken. Use care when separating it from the main socket.
Slide the grey keyboard ribbon out of the loosened connector.
Remove the upper case from the computer.

My machine didn't have a keyboard ribbon.

macbaen -

Watch this step carefully! The release mechanism pushes back slightly, parallel with the surface of the logic board. You may want to gently use a sparger rather than your thumbs if you have big fingers. This is a very delicate connector. Work one side slightly then the other. The good news is that it does not offer any resistance.

wcwirla -

I've found, however, that it's not necessary to remove the cables and thus risking breaking these fragile parts. The still-attached keyboard can simply be rested against the screen/lid of the machine while the rest of the work is done.

Charles Ess -

Schritt 15

Use a spudger to pry up the PRAM battery from the optical drive.

Schritt 16

Disconnect the PRAM battery cable from the logic board and pull the PRAM battery out.

If you are going to solder in a new battery, you will have to carefully cut the protective tape with an Xacto blade. It's sticky, so you can just fold it around the PRAM card after you install the new battery.

wcwirla -

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

iRobot

Mitglied seit: 25/09/09

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4 Kommentare

For those that are trying to do this in 2021, when new replacement parts are basically unavailable — you can replace just the cell itself with a new unit — Panasonic actually still makes these 3032 rechargeable cells. The part is here: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/deta...

The new ones are a 3V cell; the Apple spec’d battery is 3.7V, but it seems to work fine. You’ll need basic soldering skills — take the old unit out, unwrap it from the kapton tape, unsolder the old one and solder in the new one. Make sure to use a hot iron and spend a minimal amount of time heating (not more than a second or so). You want to heat the terminal, but not the battery itself.

When I did this, my old Apple OEM battery was reading a 1.03V charge; the new one was a full 3.05 volts.

david - 08/03/21

An update 3 weeks later — the cell above did NOT work. Battery stopped holding a charge and was leaking badly; I think this may be because the new cell was only 3.0V and the original was 3.7V, and possibly the charging circuit was overcharging it.

I have found a 3.7V cell on ebay, so I’m going to try that next.

david - 27/03/21

SUCCESS! The 3.7V battery worked wonderfully, and has held a PRAM charge overnight twice now. Charges back up fine too; no leaking.

I purchased this one from eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cgl-3032-3-7-v-...

If you’re reading this in 2025, I’m sure that link will be dead — you’re looking for a 3.7V (NOT 3.0V) 3032 LIR (Lithium Ion Rechargeable) battery with solder tabs.

david - 16/04/21

Thanks for the detailed information, david (from another david)! I’m searching here in 2021 (in Canada) and that eBay option is unavailable to ship here, sadly. Doesn’t seem to be options for 3.7V of the 3032 LIR - but searching like crazy to avoid paying $100 from Apple dealers here who somehow have private stock for old PB G4s. Would really love to find one to do repair myself on my otherwise great condition PB G4 15” that kept freezing up (most likely dead PRAM - but haven’t been able to test / discover that).

David -