PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1.67 GHz DC & Sound Card Replacement

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
  • Kommentare: 13
PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1.67 GHz DC & Sound Card Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

20

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

This guide will show you how to replace the DC & Sound Card on your PowerBook.

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    • Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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    • Remove the following 10 screws:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips in the battery compartment, on either side of the battery contacts.

    • Four 3 mm Phillips around the memory compartment.

    • Four 16 mm Phillips along the hinge.

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    • Remove the memory compartment cover.

    • Remove the two 12 mm Phillips screws on the Aluminum bracket at the top of the memory compartment.

    I had 7mm screws here instead of 12mm. Did without them till later.

    gepkes -

    I have an Aluminum PowerBook G4 1.67Ghz since 2006.

    3/4 (from bottom to top) of the LCD becomes either black or is jumbled each time I turn on the MAC or move the screen. I need to press the LCD at several locations in order for this problem to go.... any advice ?

    Polanskiman -

    re: Polanskiman; this is usually caused by a loose ribbon connector on the rear of the LCD. Open up the display, remove the LCD, lay flat and re-connect the ribbon plug.

    aaiverson -

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    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise so the power receptacle faces you.

    • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws along the edge of the lower case.

    • When replacing these screws, you must install them in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, then work your way toward the front of the computer.

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    • Turn the computer 90 degrees clockwise so the hinge faces you.

    • Remove the lower 5 mm Phillips screw on each side of the hinge (two total).

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    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise so the ports face you.

    • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws along the edge of the lower case.

    • When replacing these screws, you must install them in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, then work your way toward the front of the computer. Also, be careful not to put the screws in the two holes on either side of the video out port.

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    • Turn the computer over and open the display.

    • Remove the two 4.2 mm long, 1.5 mm hex screws at the top corners of the upper case (two total).

    • A T6 Torx driver will work, but repeated use will strip the screws.

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    • Grasp the back corners of the upper case and pull up.

    • Do not pull the upper case off yet; you still need to disconnect the keyboard and trackpad cable.

    • Lift the back of the case up and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

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    • Rotate the upper case up and toward the screen, so that the upper case rests against it.

    First of all, awesome guide. I am using it in July 2015, and there is no way I could have successfully navigate the typical Apple laptop Rubik's cube of Powerbook maintenance.

    Second, there is a REAL trick to removing the upper case here, and it involves knowing what those stupid internal metal catches look like so you can free them without folding your aluminum case into a pretzel.

    WildBill -

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    • Remove the amber tape securing the trackpad ribbon to the logic board.

    • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon from the logic board by pulling up on the connector.

    • Remove the upper case from the computer.

    in my g4 there is also a big transparent ribbon (for keyboard?), to the right of the amber trackpad ribbon, that i disconnected before removing case cover.

    [deleted] -

    re: ykuwabara; this is due to the differences between the Model A1095 (yours) and the newer A1138 (illustrated here). The A1138 combines the keyboard and trackpad signals into one cable.

    aaiverson -

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    • Remove the two 3 mm Phillips screws securing the left ambient light sensor. One is silver and one is black, or both black.

    • Disconnect the cable from the Logic board and remove the left ambient light sensor from your computer.

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    • Remove the 4 mm hex nut securing the left speaker.

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    • Disconnect the left speaker cable.

    Mine did not have a plug here, the speaker is soldered on.

    Simon Baldwin -

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    • Remove the four Phillips screws from the PC card cage.

    • The two longer screws go on the right side of the card cage.

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    • Disconnect the PC card cable from the logic board.

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    • Lift the PC card cage up and remove it from the computer.

    • When replacing the PC card cage, make sure you attach it to the post on the metal eject button.

    I couldn't disconnect the cage from the eject button here. Possibly because the speaker is still attached but its hard to see how the button is attached to the cage.

    Simon Baldwin -

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    • Remove the silver Phillips screw.

    • Remove the 5 mm hex nut screw.

    • Disconnect the power cable and the speaker cable from the DC & sound board (connectors highlighted in yellow boxes).

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    • Lift the DC & sound card out of lower case, but don't remove it entirely as there are still cables connected.

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    • Disconnect the power cable from the DC & sound card board.

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    • Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the modem.

    My replacement part fot the DC / Sound board was new, and did not include the RJ-11 connector and cable. From the old part, the RJ-11 port is the gray connector next to the power connector. Grasp the RJ-11 connector, and slide it off of the DC / Sound board (there is no retainer nor clips, friction holds it in place). The RJ-11 connector can then be moved to the new part, just sliding into the square cut-out next to the power connector.

    Ben Ruiz -

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

4 Kommentare

The Tools Used list specifies a #6 Torx wrench, but in step 7 it says a 1.5mm hex wrench is preferred. This is good to know ahead of time since a #6 Torx wrench is not available from the local hardware store, but a 1.5mm hex wrench is.

ewoudenberg -

THANKS for the clear, accurate help! your tutorial did the job - bravo!

valleydave3 -

Thanks you guys. I never thought I could fix my own Mac 'till I came here. I did have to mix two different procedures as the inside of my PowerBook G4 was not exactly like the one in either.

Thank you!

JOhnZ

johnzip -

Great guide - i fixed my PB G4 1,67 without any troubles. My DC-in board had a burned through capacitor. Now it´s loading again the battery and recognizes the powerplug.

Thank you!

Guenther Roppele -