Retina MacBook 2015 Doppelmikrofoneinheit austauschen

Geschrieben von: Geoff Wacker
  • Kommentare: 52
Retina MacBook 2015 Doppelmikrofoneinheit austauschen

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Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du die Doppelmikrofoneinheit des Retina MacBook 2015 austauschen kannst.

Um Schäden an der Hauptplatine zu vermeiden, solltest du nach Abschluss der Reparatur, aber bevor du es einschaltest, das MacBook mit Schwachstrom verbinden, indem du einen 5-Watt iPhone Ladestecker und ein USB-S zu USB-A Kabel benutzt.

  1. WTpjAPhBML2eX4Z1

    • Bevor du weiterarbeitest, ziehe das Netzkabel und schalte das MacBook aus. Klappe das Display zu und lege den Laptop mit der Unterseite nach oben.

    • Nur für 2015er Modelle: vermeide Schäden am Logic Board und schließe es nach erfolgreicher Reparatur , aber bevor du es einschaltest an eine Niederspannungsquelle an. Benutze dazu ein 5 Watt iPhone Ladegerät und ein USB-C zu USB-A Kabel.

    • Entferne folgende acht Schrauben, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 1,8 mm P5 Pentalobe Schrauben

    • Vier 2,9 mm P5 Pentalobe Schrauben

    • Zwei 6,1 mm P5 Pentalobe Schrauben

    • Schaue dir beim Ausbau die Lage der Schrauben genau an - sie müssen beim Eindrehen leicht schräg stehen.

    • Achte darauf, dass bei der ganzen Reparatur die Schrauben gut geordnet bleiben und passe auf, dass jede Schraube genau auf ihren alten Platz zurück kommt, damit keine Schäden am Gerät entstehen.

    If, like me, you didn’t have a P5 Pentalope screwdriver but did have one that fits an iPhone.

    You can sand down the tip until it’s the right size.

    Stuart -

    Thank you Stuart! I would never have thought of this and it worked perfectly.

    R McP -

    Hello,

    where do I plug the USB-C to USB-A cable on MacBook MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015)

    I can’t any port suitable for USB-c !??

    sissi -

    My MacBook had P4 pentalobe screws, notP5

    Greg Lavardera -

    Big thanks to Jeff for such thorough and detailed instructions. This is definitely a more advanced repair so if you're not comfortable with making such repairs, like having experience working on iPhones, computers, etc., you might think twice before attempting. It's very helpful to read all the instructions thoroughly before starting. Plan on 3 to 4 hours—the battery removal along with its adhesive is a real $@$*-show, but totally doable if you followed Jeff's recommendations.

    I'll post a few tips in the comments on each step that I think is worth noting but I will mention here one of the trickier steps. ZIF connectors on the flat cables can be a little tricky, especially if you have never done these. Before attempting to do the first one (step 8) review the others in steps 16, 20, and 25. You'll get a better sense of how these little retaining flaps flip up and what they actually look like when you study each photo in each step—they are very tiny and fragile.

    Steven Gibson -

    Just finished replacing the battery. I followed the directions that came with the battery instead of this guide. In short, Steps 15 to 35 are not necessary. You don't have to completely disassemble the laptop to replace the battery.

    Andrew Mohan -

  2. oFRbloAsCqR4kMZO
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    • Zwänge deine Finger in den Spalt zwischen dem oberen und dem unteren Gehäuse. Beginne an der Rückseite des MacBooks zwischen den Scharnieren.

    • Hebe das untere Gehäuse nur ein wenig an, damit Schäden an den Kabeln, die das obere und untere Gehäuse verbinden, vermieden werden.

    • Fasse das untere Gehäuse fest an und hebe es gleichmäßig hoch, bis es sich vom oberen Gehäuse löst.

    • Möglicherweise geht das Hochheben des unteren Gehäuses schwer. Schiebe, falls nötig, ein Plektrum oder ein anderes ESD sicheres Werkzeug an den Seitenkanten des unteren Gehäuses entlang , um die beiden versteckten Rasten zu öffnen.

    • Um beim Zusammenbau diese Klammern wieder einzurasten, musst du fest auf die beiden Seitenkanten des unteren Gehäuses drücken (in der Nähe des Plektrums im dritten Bild), bis du es einrasten hörst.

  3. WhfqVDXiYnDGnLgT

    • Halte das untere Gehäuse gut fest und drehe das Gerät mit dem Apple Logo nach oben um.

  4. MKqpe3xqSy2LdV36
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    • Hebe das obere Gehäuse und das Display zusammen von der Vorderkante her nach oben bis zu einem Winkel von etwa 45° an.

    • Es ist hilfreich, wenn du das MacBook in dieser Stellung für den nächsten Schritt abstützst.

    This step at the suggested height tears the ribbon cable. do step 7 first. carefully

    Kiernan -

    If you carefully open the display all the way and then lift the upper case, you can let the display rest on your flat working surface. The upper case will be held in place at an appropriate angle by the display hinge.

    Mike C -

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    • Drücke mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers die kleine goldfarbene "battery disconnect" Taste und halte sie fest.

    • Wenn die Einschalt-LED aufleuchtet, dann halte die Taste weiterhin gedrückt, bis die LED erlöscht und lasse sie dann los. Das kann bis zu 10 Sekunden lang dauern.

    • Wenn die LED nicht aufleuchtet, dann lasse die Taste nach 5-10 Sekunden los. Drücke und halte sie für weitere 5-10 Sekunden und lasse los. Drücke und halte sie zum Abschluss erneut für 5-10 Sekunden und lasse los.

    • Durch dieses Verfahren wird sichergestellt, dass das MacBook ganz heruntergefahren ist und risikofrei daran gearbeitet werden kann.

    Wow okay could someone explain why this is necessary? What happens if you skip this step and simply undo the screw to disconnect the power?

    EB Computers -

    Removing the screw does not disconnect the power—power comes from the battery terminals contacting the underside of the logic board, and they’re tricky to separate reliably at this stage of disassembly. This step is the safest and easiest way to kill power; don’t skip it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What if I can’t get my LED to power on when reassembling the machine?

    greg2b -

    Update: Realized my USB-C connector (Step 14) wasn’t properly seated.

    greg2b -

    Hi what will happen if i skip this step, coz i did tried to power down the battery by pressing small gold button, but no avail. the LED light still there even after more than 5 times press (5-10secs or more) each press.

    Dimitri Zaborski -

    Did you learn the answer to your question? I'm having the same issue -- I keep pressing the gold button but the battery light stays on.

    R McP -

    Mi laptop doesn’t turn it on doing that ):

    alexisaguinagam26 -

  6. MmsEtQjDTJFLgQTA

    • Schließe das MacBook und lege es mit der Unterseite nach oben hin.

  7. 2GYsPBbAwkEqs2xq

    • Hebe die Vorderkante hoch, bis das untere Gehäuse mit einem Winkel von etwa 45° geöffnet ist.

    • Achte darauf, dass die Flachbandkabel, mit denen das untere Gehäuse immer noch am MacBook angeschlossen ist, nicht beschädigt werden.

    Before the IPD flex cable can be removed the battery disconnect button has be held down for up to 10 seconds. If the LED near the battery connector is switched on it shows that there is power going through the logic board from the battery, once the button is pressed and this light goes off the machine is safe to be worked on.

    Aaron Dalziel -

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    • Löse mit einer Pinzette das schwarze Klebeband ab, mit dem der ZIF Verbinder des Trackpadkabels bedeckt ist.

    Only peel back the first half of the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector—do not completely remove.

    Steven Gibson -

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    • Klappe vorsichtig den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Trackpadkabels mit einem Spudger hoch.

    This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…

    Simon Anthony -

    I’ve just found that I have broken it after all. No keyboard. Bluetooth still works so I can use the machine.

    All in all, an expensive mistake. BTW - I did NOT get the kit from IFIXIT - not sold here.

    Simon Anthony -

    I found “Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors”

    Erkennen und Trennen von Kabelverbindern

    useful, esp. for someone who has not used ZIF connectors and retaining flaps before. There are several retaining flaps that need to be opened. The first time is tricky as you need a sense of how much force to apply. I used the flat end of the provided spudger. Apply progressively firmer upward pressure until the retaining flap pops open. The first time is tricky, but straightforward thereafter.

    Ki Park -

    Mouse back and forth between the two right-side thumbnail photos and you will get a little animation feel showing how these ZIF connectors operate—it's very helpful. Apply light but consistent pressure to pop them up. Helps to go side to side if they're a little stubborn.

    Steven Gibson -

  10. WeOX4JZDcQrqklNd
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    • Löse das Flachbandkabel des Trackpads vom Trackpad ab, indem du es vorsichtig durch den Schlitz im Rahmen ziehst.

  11. iLYAVQ2N3yLQFkvC
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    • Drehe das MacBook vorsichtig herum, so dass das untere Gehäuse flach aufliegt.

    • Klappe das obere Gehäuse/Displayeinheit etwa rechtwinklig auf und stütze es gegen einen stabilen Gegenstand, so dass du es nicht mehr festhalten musst.

    • Klebe das obere Gehäuse mit einem Klebeband in der Nähe des Trackpads fest, so dass es sich nicht versehentlich bewegen kann.

    • Man könnte zwar das MacBook ganz flach aufklappen, dies ist aber nicht zu empfehlen, da die Flachbandkabel beschädigt werden können.

    You can open the laptop screen all the way open with it flat in the table (screen facing up) and the keyboard should stay up.

    xavierviveros -

  12. AMWf6WIendtSbCD4
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    • Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm Torx T5 Schraube, mit der der Akkuanschluss am Logic Board befestigt ist.

    • Bei 2015er Modellen kann sich eine silberfarbene Erdungsklammer mit zwei Schaumstoffstückchen direkt unter dieser Schraube befinden. Diese könnte sich lösen. Achte darauf, dass du sie beim Zusammenbau wieder einbaust.

    the moment you opening macbook case and before any tinkering with connections, you MUST press little yellow button on logicboard, located on the right from battery connector - this will disable all power to the board. You can check by looking at the small led on left side of the battery connector - if there is very faint light, it means that power is still there. After pressing button light should go off. Removing screw is not necessary at all, and like I said - you MUST disable power before any touching to connections etc.

    DigiHead -

    Where it says

    “2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw“

    I have a 2015 MacBook & the grounding clip is not there!

    I’m using this guide to investigate why there are lines on screen or darker screen at certain angles of opening it. Also a background ghosting effect on screen too.

    No obvious damage or loose connectors so wondered if the lack of grounding clip can cause these symptoms?

    Anybody out there know?

    nijafe -

    Either buy the clip and check, or replace the screen (or LB), but the macbook would more likely not start if there is a missing grounded connection, depending on what is being grounded.

    Sean -

  13. pTJmavEfBv2DXgVU
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    • Als zusätzliche Sicherheitsmaßnahme kannst du den Akku physisch trennen, indem du ein Akkuisolierstück zwischen Logic Board und Akkuanschluss einsetzt.

    I HAD TO DO THIS TWICE. After replacing the battery while following this guide to a 'T', the battery was not being recognized by the logic board. Strangely, with the power unplugged it would still light up the screen and tell me the battery was at a critical level, but it would not boot. Resetting the SMC had no effect. I thought I killed my computer or got a bad battery, so as a last ditch effort I re-opened the case, pressed the battery disconnect button, removed the screw and inserted the battery separation tool again to Physically Disconnect the battery from the mainboard. After about 5 minutes I then removed the tool and reassembled everything, plugged in via 5v iphone charger and USBA-C cable again and LO, the battery is now reporting correctly, charging correctly and allowing me to boot on its power .

    Neil Schultz -

  14. NxUtySGy3uWmfBTN

    • Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen die Halterung des USB-C Anschlusskabels befestigt ist:

    • 1,1 mm Tri-Point Y00 Schraube

    • Bei manchen Modellen kann es auch eine Kreuzschlitzschraube sein.

    • 3,5 mm Torx T5 Schraube

    This was oddly the hardest part. That Tri-Point screw just wouldn’t budge! I had to sand the end of the only Tri-point screwdriver I had in the end to get it to fit.

    Stuart -

    Be sure to get the metal plate under the chip near where the PT5 screw is before tightening

    abscate -

    I should have read the comments before using the provided 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 bit. I almost stripped the screw but was able to use a small flat head bit to open the screw.

    Ifixit: you may want to update this part in the instructions. Not everyone reads the comment section, esp. when it comes to specification of bits which is basic and must be accurate. This is one of the more critical ones in the procedure that can easily go south. The rest of the instructions are excellent.

    Ki Park -

    early 2015 model here. I’ve used a Y1.5 with cautiously applied down force.

    beaudry.ian -

    My 2015 had a 2.5mm Y screw not a Y000.

    Michael Bonney -

    Adding to the helpful comments above, on replacing the 1.1mm tripoint screw, I found the the magnetism of the nearby speaker coil overcame that of the driver and would draw the screw away or the combo of forces would fling it out of the work area! After fiddling with it for too long, I used some of the battery adhesive removed earlier to attached the screw to the driver. Wax would probably work better if I’d had some.

    jefflyons -

    I used the PH00 head to unscrew what they call the “1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw”, NOT the Y00 head, and it unscrewed perfectly fine.

    Grace Escamilla -

    Agreed, my screw was a PH00.

    stephen delaney -

  15. aPJDUSEVa24G5wDu
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    • Heble die Halterung des USB-C Anschlusskabels vom Logic Board hoch und löse sie ab.

    • Um dieses Kabel wieder anzuschließen, musst du erst die Metallhalterung passend über die Schraubenlöcher legen und dann in der Mitte herunterdrücken. Achte darauf, dass sie korrekt sitzt, sonst kann der Stecker beschädigt werden.

    Emphasis on aligning the bracket correctly. What the pictures do not show is that underneath the flat part of the metal bracket (the area between the two screw holes) is a connector that needs to be accurately aligned. Aligning the two screw holes does not imply that the connector is seated correctly.

    After I re-assembled my 2015 MacBook power would not come on. I thought I had damaged the logic board despite being careful and following instructions. Diagnosing the problem took a while. Retracing the steps and focusing on power supply I was able to determine that the metal flap which hides the connector underneath had not made proper contact.

    What I did was to use a finger to get a tactile feel for the connector underneath the metal bracket aligning properly and then press down vertically when it seemed to be aligned. It’s a subtle tactile feel. After re-doing this step, I got power back. Be careful not to damage the connector as noted in the instructions.

    Ki Park -

    Good tip. It’s so easy to damage these fragile connectors by forcing the plug in and reattaching the mounting plate screws

    Peter Newman -

  16. cnkkpqnImOJBKvGP
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    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zur Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse mit dem Spudger auf.

  17. gWObarmSQqX4gWjO

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel zur Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse, indem du es gerade aus dem ZIF Verbinder nach hinten ziehst.

    • Richte das Flachbandkabel beim Zusammenbau so wie gezeigt aus, sodass die Seite mit den weißen Streifen zu dir zeigt.

    hey my macbook do not have sound after replacing the topcase, i did connect everything like here you did, also I did the reset of PR and NVRAM. What Can I check more? simply when I open the OS, there is no audio device at all

    dkflu -

    The audio jack cable is a bit of a pain to reinsert. I found if I turned the screen and the bottom on its side, like an open book, I had much better orientation and it was much easier to insert.

    Steven Gibson -

  18. aRBTvLonTFkvcOtO
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    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Flachbandkabel zur Doppelmikrofoneinheit mit einem Spudger hoch.

  19. bmYAgwQZJmlECncS
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    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Mikrofoneinheit gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus und löse es ab.

    Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.

    Vernon Roth -

  20. V4R3guxfwuCWyjQI

    • Entferne die beiden 3,2 mm Torx T5 Schrauben, mit denen die Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse am Gehäuse befestigt ist.

  21. KMZLqx45JmFco3PR

    • Entferne die Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse.

    After jack replacement my internal speakers stop working. Any solution?

    piotr2503 -

    There must be a bad contact in the jack socket or the card has been damaged, the sound therefore remains blocked on it

    Ludovic -

  22. RiZEPTJCVVQiqelE

    If you are replacing the case upper case check to see if your replacement case has a microphone assembly included. If it does you can skip 28-30

    Marco Romani -

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    • Löse die Doppelmikrofoneinheit vorsichtig mit der feinen Spitze einer Sonde vom Gehäuse ab.

    very difficult to remove, even with heat. Can be purchased on eBay for ~ $10

    zimmerninja -

    The upper case sold by iFixit comes with the dual mic

    Tolu Fapohunda -

    impossible to remove without damaging the mic. I strongly suggest to remove the screw hodling the keyboard before removing and installing the new mic

    Erick Luna -

  24. olx1SFEu2R6Audo2

    • Entferne die Doppelmikrofoneinheit.

    During reassembly, do you need to apply adhesive to the microphone assembly to glue it back to the case? What adhesive is the best to use?

    Andrei -

    Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So this was very hard to take off. I probably didn’t allow enough time for the adhesive to heat up and loosen. But I noticed that my new upper case assembly already came with a new dual microphone assembly attached. I’m assuming that all new upper assemplies will come with a microphone preinstalled. If that’s the case this part is not necessary and can be skipped in my opinion.

    Eduardo Chavez -

    it is hard to install the new one, but not impossible. I strongly recommend to peel the adhesive and try to insert the dual mic assebly with actual mic holes facing up. Once inside push with some tweezers to final position. Make sure you remove the blck screw holding the keyboard, it will make iy a bit easier

    Erick Luna -

Abschluss

Um das Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge der Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge. Um Schäden an der Hauptplatine zu vermeiden, solltest du nach Abschluss der Reparatur, aber bevor du es einschaltest, das MacBook mit Schwachstrom verbinden, indem du einen 5-Watt iPhone Ladestecker und ein USB-S zu USB-A Kabel benutzt.

Tinte & Feder

Geoff Wacker

Mitglied seit: 30/09/13

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3 Kommentare

Hi! Anyone would know where to find the MacBook 2015 Dual Microphone only? iFixIt seems to have it listed already assembled with the MacBook Upper Part with Keyboard. It does not seem to list this part separately. Thanks!

Neo_Hunt -

Found the new mic assembly on ebay and amazon. Part 2243-A

Erick Luna -