Retina MacBook 2016 obere Gehäuseeinheit austauschen

Schritt 1

Bevor du weiterarbeitest, ziehe das Netzkabel und schalte das MacBook aus. Klappe das Display zu und lege den Laptop mit der Unterseite nach oben auf eine saubere weiche Arbeitsfläche.
Entferne folgende acht Schrauben, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist:
Zwei 1,8 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben
Vier 2,9 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben
Zwei 6,1 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben
Schaue dir beim Ausbau die Lage der Schrauben genau an - sie müssen beim Eindrehen leicht schräg stehen.
Halte bei der ganzen Reparatur die Schrauben gut geordnet und passe auf, dass jede Schraube genau auf ihren alten Platz zurück kommt, damit keine Schäden am Gerät entstehen.

IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

Chris Leeds - 30/04/18

The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

abscate - 27/02/20

Schritt 2

Zwänge deine Finger in den Spalt zwischen dem oberen und dem unteren Gehäuse. Beginne an der Rückseite des MacBooks zwischen den Scharnieren.
Hebe das untere Gehäuse nur ein wenig an, damit Schäden an den Kabeln, die das obere und untere Gehäuse verbinden, vermieden werden.
Fasse das untere Gehäuse fest an und hebe es gleichmäßig hoch, bis es sich vom oberen Gehäuse löst.
Möglicherweise geht das Hochheben des unteren Gehäuses schwer. Schiebe ein Plektrum oder ein anderes ESD sicheres Werkzeug an den Seitenkanten des unteren Gehäuses entlang , um die beiden versteckten Klammern zu öffnen.
Damit diese Klammern beim Zusammenbau wieder einrasten, musst du fest auf die beiden Seitenkanten des unteren Gehäuses drücken (in der Nähe des Plektrums im dritten Bild), bis du es einrasten hörst.

Schritt 3

Halte das untere Gehäuse gut fest und drehe das MacBook vorsichtig um, sodass das Apple Logo nach oben zeigt.

Schritt 4

Hebe das obere Gehäuse und das Display zusammen von der Vorderkante her nach oben an, bis es mit einem Winkel von etwa 45° steht.
Es ist hilfreich, wenn du es in dieser Stellung für den nächsten Schritt abstützt.

This displays two black pics to prop up the MacBook, but the kit only includes one black pic.

Kyle Swafford -

Schritt 5

Drücke mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers die goldfarbene "battery disconnect" Taste und halte sie fest.
Wenn die Einschalt-LED aufleuchtet, dann halte die Taste weiterhin gedrückt, bis die LED erlöscht. Das kann bis zu 10 Sekunden lang dauern.
Wenn die LED nicht aufleuchtet, dann lasse die Taste nach 5-10 Sekunden los. Drücke und halte sie für weitere 5-10 Sekunden und lasse los. Drücke und halte sie zum Abschluss erneut für 5-10 Sekunden und lasse los.
Durch dieses Verfahren wird sichergestellt, dass das MacBook ganz heruntergefahren ist und sicher daran gearbeitet werden kann.

cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

Laurent Pierre - 07/10/18

on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

aaron_vandyke2003 - 09/04/19

Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

mmcsorley - 17/04/19

After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

Richard Lovatt - 18/09/19

It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

Luk Chl - 09/02/20

mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

cristian.campuzano - 16/06/20

Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

Brandon Elliott - 21/07/20

May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

Xiubo Zhang - 19/12/20

For those whose Mac won't turn on.

See step 16

To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then "PRESS DOWN" on the middle of the bracket.

There is a connector under the bracket, which you can't see if you don't see under.

Not having it in mind, you will not PRESS DOWN the middle of the bracket and there is no connect.

hls2005 -

There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

Kinda stuck….

Carlos Perez - 05/04/21

Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up

eestern -

I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.

LexxOne -

How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.

Herb -

The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.

Noah - Feb 18, 2021

Hello Noah,

It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.

David - Mar 3, 2021

While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

Noah - Mar 4, 2021

Noah -

I plugged in my charger and the LED came on. The computer gets warm but the screen is not turning on. The keyboards doesn’t seem to respond to recovery options. Any suggestions?

J'Trel Sapp -

Hello in muy case the power LED does not go dark (off) . Holding more than 10 sec and nothing. Somebody?

Flavio - 17/03/23

The led light doesn’t turn off on mine either. Held for 10 sec 3 times and still on. How do I turn it off now? And will it damage the computer if I work on it with the light on?

sfalba -

Also, which way should the track pad flex cable face when reinstalling it?

sfalba -

Schritt 6

Schließe das MacBook und lege es mit der Unterseite nach oben hin.

Schritt 7

Hebe die Vorderkante hoch, bis das untere Gehäuse mit einem Winkel von etwa 45° geöffnet ist.
Achte darauf, dass die Flachbandkabel, mit denen das untere Gehäuse immer noch am MacBook angeschlossen ist, nicht beschädigt werden.

Schritt 8

Löse mit einer Pinzette das Klebeband ab, mit dem der ZIF Verbinder des Trackpadkabels bedeckt ist.

Where can I find a replacement cable?

John Comix - 10/03/20

Just worked on one that was missing the tape from the factory, so yours may not have it either.

maccentric -

that cable got damaged, and now my macbook won't turn on anymore. Does this cable prevent the macbook from working?

ITZ CRONOMO -

Schritt 9

Klappe vorsichtig den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Trackpadkabels mit einem Spudger hoch.

The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

abscate - 27/02/20

The keyboard and trackpad don't work after the repair, what can I do? They don't even show up in System Report.

bredelet -

I found that the connector was not pushed enough in. Works now.

bredelet -

Schritt 10

Ziehe das Flachbandkabel des Trackpads vorsichtig durch den Schlitz im Rahmen vom Trackpad ab.

Schritt 11

Schließe das MacBook sorgfältig und drehe es wieder um, so dass das Apple Logo nach oben zeigt.
Klappe das obere Gehäuse/Display Einheit etwa rechtwinklig auf und stütze es an einem stabilen Gegenstand, so dass du es nicht festhalten brauchst.
Klebe das obere Gehäuse mit einem Klebeband in der Nähe des Trackpads fest, so dass es sich nicht versehentlich bewegen kann.
Man könnte zwar das MacBook die ganze Zeit flach aufgeklappt lassen, dies ist aber nicht zu empfehlen, da die Flachbandkabel beschädigt werden können.

Schritt 12

Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm Torx T5 Schraube, mit der der Akkuanschluss am Logic Board befestigt ist.

From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

* I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

Chris Leeds - 30/04/18

I don't know what guide your on, but step 6 of the guide to replacing the USB-C cable has you press this button (3 times even).

maccentric -

What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

Does the new one just stick back right on top?

(In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

Elizabeth Erkelens - 18/04/19

Schritt 13

Als zusätzliche Sicherheitsmaßnahme kannst du den Akku physisch trennen, indem du ein Akkuisolierstück zwischen Logic Board und Akkuanschluss einsetzt.

What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

DSANTIAGOSOY - 31/03/19

If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

Adam O'Camb - 03/04/19

Schritt 14

Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen die Halterung des USB-C Anschlusses befestigt ist:
Eine 1,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #00
Eine 3,5 mm Torx T5 Schraube

I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???

Y'vonne Feeney - 15/04/20

You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.

Tobias Isakeit - 28/04/20

The USB-C ribbon cable breaks very easily when being attached. Any particular tricks for ensuring that it won’t snap somewhere while being installed?

bfg737 - 12/08/20

With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.

Paul Nishikawa - 11/10/20

This was #000 for me as well

Adam Hupp - 21/11/20

I was at the 1.1 mm and couldn't get it open with the 00. I ordered the 000 but it still won't budge. I tried the glove idea and as much pressure as I'm comfortable giving. I'm pretty sure the screw is stripped. Any ideas or advice or am I in trouble?

johnny gutierrez -

Schritt 15

Heble die Halterung des USB-C Anschlusses mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers gerade hoch und löse sie vom Logic Board ab.
Um dieses Kabel wieder anzuschließen, musst du erst die Metallhalterung passend über die Schraubenlöcher legen und dann in der Mitte der Halterung nach unten drücken. Achte darauf, dass sie korrekt sitzt, sonst könnte der Stecker beschädigt werden.

At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.

Aki Mochi - 13/12/20

After this step, I flipped the Macbook over once more and opened it up 90 degrees, supported on the back. Proceeded directly to step 25. Seems safer, those fragile connectors and flimsy cables give me heebie jeebies.

maccentric -

Schritt 16

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Kabels zur Audioplatine mit dem Spudger hoch.

Schritt 17

Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Audioplatine gerade aus seinem ZIF Anschluss heraus und löse es ab.
Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass das Flachbandkabel so liegt, dass die Seite mit dem weißen Streifen, wie zu sehen, zu dir zeigt.
An dieser Stelle ist es möglich, das MacBook ganz zu öffnen und flach auf den Tisch zu legen, ohne dass die Flachbandkabel beschädigt werden.

Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.

Timothy Dinkelman - 10/12/19

I had that same problem, too.

lyonmissions -

Had the same problem, (no audio after reassembly) it did have the startup chime though.
after re-seating the ribbon cable, it worked for a few days, but then nothing after waking up.
not even the startup chime.
Any body got pointers on how to check if i broke the cable or the board? (looks fine...)

Christian Stanner -

Schritt 18

Ziehe das Klebeband vom Displaykabelstecker mit einer Pinzette zurück.

I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.

John Conklin - 24/02/20

Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb - 26/02/20

I skipped ahead to step 25 successfully by making a secure stand for the display and being careful to not strain cables. If you are decently motor skilled this saves you 15 minutes or so. Not recommended if you live with cats who love little screws to chase

abscate - 27/02/20

Schritt 19

Es kann sein, dass der metallene Sicherungsbügel am Displaykabelstecker aufklappt und am Klebeband festhängen bleibt.
Wenn das so ist, dann musst du den Sicherungsbügel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers nach unten halten, während du mit der Pinzette das Klebeband ablöst.

Schritt 20

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel auf dem Displaykabelstecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
Versuche ihn vom Klebeband fern zu halten, sonst kann er daran festkleben. Dann wird das Ablösen des Kabels schwieriger.

I found it helpful to stick one of the triangular picks in between the table and the retaining flap to keep them separated.

Kofi Kantanka -

Schritt 21

Schiebe vorsichtig das flache Ende des Spudgers unter das Displaykabel, um es von der Klebeverbindung zum unteren Gehäuse zu trennen.
Achte darauf, dass das Kabel nicht beschädigt wird. Wenn es sich nicht leicht ablösen lässt, dann erwärme das Kabel/Gehäuse direkt darunter mit einem Haartrockner oder einen iOpener. Der Kleber wird dadurch aufgeweicht und du kannst es noch einmal probieren.

Great, another new fragile display cable to deal with. Thanks Apple.

maccentric - 13/05/20

Schritt 22

Ziehe das Displaykabel vorsichtig gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus und löse es ab.
Schließe gleich danach den Sicherungsbügel.
Beim Zusammenbau muss der Sicherungsbügel zugeklappt sein. Setze das Kabel mit den Goldkontakten nach unten korrekt auf und schiebe es vorsichtig in den geschlossenen Anschluss hinein. Achte darauf, dass das Kabel nicht geknickt oder beschädigt wird. Wenn es richtig sitzt, dann sind die Vertiefungen an den Seiten nicht mehr sichtbar.

I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:

“After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”

I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.

Thank you for your guidance!

John Torquido - 30/07/18

For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen - 31/07/18

Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!

John Torquido - 31/07/18

I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!

Sulmo Kim - 11/09/20

I initially tried inserting the cable with the retaining flap closed (as described), however after completing reassembly the MacBook could be heard to start but without any display action (no backlight, no graphics - also tried resetting the SMC). Being suspicious of this step based on the comments above, I tried re-inserting the cable with the retaining flap open before subsequently closing the flap. It may have just been my perception but insertion with the retaining flap open certainly appeared to result in a more robust mating of cable and connector. After reassembly and reset of the SMC I at least saw backlight action although no graphics still. A subsequent boot into to diagnostics mode resulted in the graphics coming to life.

Maybe my re-insertion while the retaining flap was closed was not quite correct (although I was certainly trying to be careful), but my experience was that success was achieved making the cable insertion while the retaining flap was open.

Paul Richards -

It is kind of nice that I don't have to worry about that. The screen cable is literally plug & play. Super easy.

lyonmissions -

Schritt 23

Trenne die untere von der oberen Gehäuseeinheit.

Schritt 24

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Flachbandkabel zur Doppelmikrofoneinheit mit einem Spudger hoch.

Schritt 25

Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Mikrofoneinheit gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus und löse es ab.

Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.

Vernon Roth - 04/03/20

Schritt 26

Entferne die beiden 3,2 mm Torx T5 Schrauben, mit denen die Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse am Gehäuse befestigt ist.

Schritt 27

Entferne die Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse.

After jack replacement my internal speakers stop working. Any solution?

piotr2503 - 04/06/19

There must be a bad contact in the jack socket or the card has been damaged, the sound therefore remains blocked on it

Ludovic -

Schritt 28

Bereite einen iOpener vor und erwärme damit das obere Gehäuse direkt hinter der Mikrofoneinheit.

If you are replacing the case upper case check to see if your replacement case has a microphone assembly included. If it does you can skip 28-30

Marco Romani - 14/01/19

Schritt 29

Löse die Doppelmikrofoneinheit vorsichtig mit der feinen Spitze einer Sonde vom Gehäuse ab.

very difficult to remove, even with heat. Can be purchased on eBay for ~ $10

zimmerninja - 26/11/17

The upper case sold by iFixit comes with the dual mic

Tolu Fapohunda - 30/05/20

impossible to remove without damaging the mic. I strongly suggest to remove the screw hodling the keyboard before removing and installing the new mic

Erick Luna -

Schritt 30

Entferne die Doppelmikrofoneinheit.

During reassembly, do you need to apply adhesive to the microphone assembly to glue it back to the case? What adhesive is the best to use?

Andrei - 15/05/19

Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.

Jeff Suovanen - 15/05/19

So this was very hard to take off. I probably didn’t allow enough time for the adhesive to heat up and loosen. But I noticed that my new upper case assembly already came with a new dual microphone assembly attached. I’m assuming that all new upper assemplies will come with a microphone preinstalled. If that’s the case this part is not necessary and can be skipped in my opinion.

Eduardo Chavez - 30/05/20

it is hard to install the new one, but not impossible. I strongly recommend to peel the adhesive and try to insert the dual mic assebly with actual mic holes facing up. Once inside push with some tweezers to final position. Make sure you remove the blck screw holding the keyboard, it will make iy a bit easier

Erick Luna -

Schritt 31

Entferne die beiden 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, die den USB-C Anschluss befestigen.

I didn’t notice this when removing the USB-C port, but it seems to be a little loose under the screws. I have another MacBook of the same vintage and found that its USB-C port also has a little movement when a cable is plugged in. Not much movement, just a little.

woikelaw - 12/08/19

I missed this comment when I did this job but observed the same

No apparent effect on function

abscate - 03/03/20

It would have been a help to have pointed out that actually folding the end of this ribbon cable at the USB C end, as shown in your pictures, before attaching it will help to prevent the cable breaking at one of its inner corners while being installed.

bfg737 - 13/08/20

As with my comment above, for me, these were #000 not #00. Other than that, if you work slowly and deliberately, you will find the right angle. It does go in without any force, but you have to find the right way.

Paul Nishikawa - 11/10/20

Schritt 32

Hebe den USB-C Anschluss mit einer Pinzette genau über die Scharnierschrauben.
Schiebe den Anschluss heraus und hebe ihn über dem Scharnier hoch..
Für den Ein- und Ausbau des USB-C Anschlusses ist sehr wenig Platz. Wende auf keinen Fall viel Kraft an, wenn du nicht genug Raum hast. Versuche die Schrauben des Displayscharniers zu entfernen und die Scharniere ein wenig zu bewegen, damit du zusätzlichen Arbeitsraum gewinnst.

Successful completion of USBC in 20 minutes with following notes

1 the replacement part has to have the ribbon folded to match the original or will it foul the display case large screw. You know this when you can’t put the two big Pentalobe screws in on the final case install

2 my USBC part looks identical to the original, but the port has some motion even with the screws tight. I’m wondering about this a bit. I’m confident I did not cross thread the screws.

i measure the thickness of the original USB C port board at the two Phillips screws as 325 microns +_25 umicrons

abscate - 27/02/20

I found the same problem with the new part moving a lot after installation even with the screws tight, and realised the problem is the new part does not come with the black rubber seal that goes around the connector (you can see it in pic 3 step 25). I moved that across from the old part to the new one and now it seems very tight.

Gabriele Nicotra - 08/04/20

Step 25 only has one pic

John M - 13/06/20

He means 3rd pic of step 26.

dmjenks - 14/06/20

If you are removing the screen (to replace the top case, for example), do this step afterwards. It is much easier this way.

maccentric - 13/05/20

No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?

The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.

John M - 13/06/20

remove the two screws under the rubber piece to disconnect the display. I didn’t have to completely remove it, just enough to slide the pieces in and out

Seth Ferguson - 18/08/20

totally worked! saved me about $550 doing it myself so you have my eternal gratitude

Seth Ferguson - 18/08/20

I found it impossible to remove the USB type C port during this step and instead continued with the next 2 steps and after separating the display found that the USB type C port was effortlessly removed……hope that helps someone

Steve Harris - 17/12/20

I think it’s a pretty $@$*!& tutorial. Sorry to be blunt.

It is essentially missing about 3 final steps that show the replacement piece so one can appreciate it.

I read the tutorial, thought it’s all clear and then bought the piece except it was an incomplete piece. Since the tutorial is missing the last three steps, I could not judge the piece and essentially got lured buying an incomplete piece.

Mark Schira - 20/02/21

I don’t understand why here in this picture it looks like the black ribbon is turning away from the port but for the piece I bought, die black ribbon goes in the same direction as the port: Retina MacBook 2016 Teardown .

Miriam Guth -

Schritt 33

Entferne die beiden 3,3 mm Torx T5 Schrauben, mit denen die Displaykabeleinheit befestigt ist.
Achte daruf, dass du die kleine Halteklammer unter der rechten Schraube nicht verlierst. Wenn sie sich löst, dann merke dir für den Zusammenbau genau ihre Lage, wie hier gezeigt. Die kleine Lasche an der linken Außenkante muss in die entsprechende Öffnung im Metallblech passen.

Schritt 34

Öffne das Display ganz.
Setze das MacBook auf seiner rechten Kante ab, so dass das Display, wie zu sehen, von dir weg zeigt.

I found putting the laptop keyboard down on the edge of a table (With screen open, and going down the side of the table) To be easier. It allowed me to put in the torque needed in unscrewing the screen.

Michael Daken -

Schritt 35

Entferne die vier 4,8 mm Torx T8 Schrauben, mit denen die Displayscharniere befestigt sind.
Über den Schrauben am Scharnier kann eine Gummiabdeckung sein. Entferne sie vor dem Ausbau der Schrauben und setze sie beim Zusammenbau wieder ein.

The screws were tight and my cheapo torx driver from Amazon was not up to the task. Bought a good one and the screws came out easily.

bredelet -

Schritt 36

Halte die Displayeinheit mit einer Hand fest und das obere Gehäuse mit der anderen. Drücke sie dann beide leicht gegeneinander, so dass sich die Scharniere aus ihren Vertiefungen im oberen Gehäuse herauslösen.
Es ist nur wenige Millimeter Spiel zwischen den Scharnieren und dem Gehäuse, du wirst also nicht weit drücken müssen.
Drücke das obere Gehäuse nach vorne und ziehe gleichzeitig das Display vorsichtig zurück.
Wenn sich die Displayscharniere vom oberen Gehäuse gelöst haben, dann entferne das Display und lege es zur Seite.

I had to give the screen just a little force here, for it to pop out. Its an incredibly tight fit.

Michael Daken -

Schritt 37

Entferne mit einer Pinzette das Klebeband vom Stecker des Flachbandkabels zur Tastatur auf dem Trackpad.

Schritt 38

Klappe mit dem Spudger den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zur Tastatur hoch.

Schritt 39

Ziehe vorsichtig das Flachbandkabel zur Tastatur aus seinem Schlitz im Rahmen heraus.

Pictures seem missing? Luckily this step is pretty straightforward.

maccentric - 13/05/20

Schritt 40

Entferne die fünf 2,5 mm Torx T3 Schrauben, mit denen das Trackpad am Gehäuse befestigt ist.
Bei einigen Bitsets könnten die T4 Bits besser passen.

Definitely try the T4 first. And press down hard, these things strip easily.

maccentric - 13/05/20

Not a T3 and not a T4, these will strip using whichever one used (my case), maybe my screws were the bad

Juan sanchez - 28/09/20

Schritt 41

Entferne die Trackpad-Einheit.
Es kann beim Ausbau vorkommen, dass auf beiden Seiten des Trackpads metallene Halteklammern herausfallen. Achte darauf, dass du sie beim Zusammenbau so wie auf dem Bild gezeigt wieder einbaust.

There were no metal brackets on mine. I don't know if this MacBook had ever been serviced before, though. Hopefully it won't be an issue.

parts -

Schritt 42

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zur Tastatur hoch.

Schritt 43

Ziehe vorsichtig das Flachbandkabel zur Tastatur vom Gehäuse hoch und entferne das Kabel.

Schritt 44

Das obere Gehäuse bleibt übrig.

Is there a possibility to remove the keyboard from the uppercase after that step?

GEORGES GLYKOFRYDIS - 02/02/19

It’s possible, but pretty hard to do. There’s no guide for this specific MacBook, but here’s a guide for removing the keyboard in a 2013 13” Macbook Pro, and a teardown of a 2018 MacBook keyboard. I definitely wouldn’t rely on the guide or teardown to remove this keyboard, but the processes should at least be similar enough to give you an idea of what’s entailed. For further information you might check our answers forum—chances are there’s someone there that knows more about this repair. Good luck!

Adam O'Camb - 02/02/19

Retina MacBook 2016 obere Gehäuseeinheit austauschen

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

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