Samsung Galaxy S6 Akku ersetzen

Geschrieben von: Dante Mazzanti
  • Kommentare: 206
Samsung Galaxy S6 Akku ersetzen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

18

Zeitaufwand

40 Minuten - 1 Stunde

Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung, um den Akku in deinem Samsung Galaxy S6 zu ersetzen.

Bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst, musst du erst den Akku auf unter 25% entladen. Ein geladener Akku kann Feuer fangen oder explodieren, wenn er versehentlich perforiert oder beschädigt wird.

Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, dann musst du entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.. In diesem Fall darfst du das Telefon auf keinen Fall erwärmen. Du kannst eine Pipette oder eine Injektionsspritze benutzen, um Isopropylalkohol (mindestens 90%) um die Kanten der Rückabdeckung einzuträufeln und so den Kleber zu aufzuweichen. Aufgeblähte Akkus können sehr gefährlich sein, trage eine Schutzbrille und sei sehr vorsichtig. Gib den Akku im Zweifelsfall zu einem professionellen Reparaturdienst.

Bei dieser Reparatur wird auch das Glas auf der Rückseite ausgebaut. Der Kleber, mit dem es befestigt ist, wird dadurch unbrauchbar. Folge dieser Anleitung, um das rückseitige Glas wieder festzukleben.

  1. SqQXVymBdpDIKpTT
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    • Fahre mit einer Büroklammer oder einem SIM Karten Auswurfwerkzeug in das kleine Loch am SIM Karten Slot. Er befindet sich auf der gleichen Seite wie die Einschalttaste des Smartphones.

    • Drücke, um das SIM Kartenfach auszuwerfen.

    • Drücke nicht zu fest, da du sonst unter Umständen das SIM Kartenfach beschädigst.

    It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

    David White -

    Done. Thanks for the tip!

    Minor editor -

  2. QCXAEEFWZCGGwR3W

    • Entferne das SIM Kartenfach vom Smartphone.

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    • Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.

    • Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.

    • Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy -

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray -

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck -

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins -

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib -

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong -

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts -

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony -

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette -

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle -

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu -

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 -

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 -

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis -

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R -

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam -

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt -

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug -

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien -

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z -

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler -

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin -

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree -

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler -

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber -

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison -

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    • Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Im Verlauf der Reparatur kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.

    • Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er aufgeschwollen aussieht.

    • Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 -

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson -

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon -

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish -

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave -

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey -

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald -

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble -

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim -

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett -

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights -

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only -

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain -

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis -

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 -

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins -

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov -

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl -

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim -

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    • Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.

    • Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer -

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits -

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John -

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin -

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark -

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis -

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    • Solltest du keine Mikrowelle haben oder benutzen wollen, folge diesem Schritt, um den iOpener in kochendem Wasser zu erhitzen.

    • Fülle einen Topf oder eine tiefe Pfanne mit ausreichend Wasser, um den iOpener komplett damit bedecken zu können.

    • Erhitze das Wasser (ohne den iOpener) bis es kocht. Schalte die Wärmezufuhr (Platte) aus.

    • Lege den iOpener für etwa 2-3 Minuten in das heiße Wasser. Stelle sicher, dass der iOpener komplett mit Wasser bedeckt ist.

    • Nimm den iOpener mit einer Küchenzange aus dem Wasser heraus.

    • Trockne den iOpener gründlich mit einem Küchen- oder Handtuch ab.

    • Der iOpener speichert die Hitze, und ist daher sehr heiß. Sei vorsichtig, und halte den iOpener nur an den Endlaschen, nicht in der Mitte.

    • Der iOpener kann jetzt verwendet werden. Solltest du den iOpener erneut erwärmen müssen, erhitze das Wasser nochmal bis zum Siedepunkt, schalte die Wärmezufuhr aus, und lege den iOpener wieder für 2-3 Minuten vollständig in das Wasser.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max -

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia -

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia -

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    • Wenn du das Smartphone öffnest, werden seine wasserfesten Dichtungen beschädigt. Halte Ersatzklebstoff bereit, bevor du zu repariren beginnst, oder vermeide es das Gerät beim Zusammenbau Feuchtigkeit auszusetzen, ohne den Klebstoff zu ersetzen.

    • Falls das Glas gesplittert ist, fixiere das gesamte Panel mit Paketklebeband. So wird es zusammengehalten.

    • Lege den erwärmten iOpener für etwa zwei Minuten über das ganze Panel, um den Kleber rund um den Rand des Glases zu lösen.

    • Wahrscheinlich musst du den iOpener mehrfach erwärmen und wieder auflegen, um das Smartphone heiß genug zu bekommen. Befolge die Anleitung für den iOpener, um Überhitzung zu vermeiden.

    • Verschiebe den iOpener, um den restlichen Bereich des Panels für weitere zwei Minuten zu erwärmen.

    • Du kannst auch einen Haartrockner, eine Heizplatte oder ein Heißluftgebläse benutzen. Sei aber vorsichtig und überhitze das Smartphone nicht. Das OLED Display und der Akku sind durch zu viel Wärme leicht zu beschädigen.

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed -

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung -

    haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)

    Michael -

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken -

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD -

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray -

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch -

    I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .

    Brian Gillan -

    Neither I had any success with the iopener. I ended up heating with a hair dryer. The metallic edges become quite hot.

    BTW: My phone’s “Rear Glass” is actually plastic. It didn’t seem like it would crack very easily.

    Michael -

    To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!

    Michael Bielec -

    I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.

    Sam Turner -

  8. Fw6nGUXcuaFIRkwC
    Fw6nGUXcuaFIRkwC
    HUeKUPTkXmfWZVj3
    nQZTQPZ2JhQWFgLJ

    • Wenn die Glasscheibe so heiß ist, dass du sie kaum anfassen kannst, kannst du einen Saugnapf nahe der Unterkante anbringen.

    • Hebe den Saugnapf hoch, um einen kleinen Spalt unter dem rückseitigen Glas zu schaffen. Setze dort ein Plektrum ein.

    • Wenn du willst, kannst du noch ein paar Tropfen Isopropylalkohol in den Spalt einfließen lassen. Das schwächt den Kleber und hilft bei den folgenden Schritten.

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender -

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    [deleted] -

    I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

    Thomas Hayes -

    In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.

    Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.

    Adam Talbott -

    Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.

    Paul Knight -

  9. RORfgD2GaFfcZTKD
    RORfgD2GaFfcZTKD
    Iqo6TFJnCEgjMqsP

    • Fahre mit dem Plektrum entlang der Unterkante des Smartphones um den Kleber, der das rückseitige Glas festhält, aufzutrennen.

    • Es ist dann hilfreich, wenn du danach das Plektrum an Ort und Stelle lässt und für den nächsten Schritt ein weiteres Plektrum benutzst. Wenn das Plektrum stecken bleibt verhindert es, dass sich der eben aufgetrentte Kleber wieder verbindet.

    • Erwärme das rückseitige Glas immer wieder, um zu verhindern, dass der Klebstoff wieder erkaltet und fest wird.

    Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

    Gary F -

    I needed help of a second person to insert the first pick. Apart from that, it was a one person job for me.

    Michael -

  10. YjEYrTI2RbxU6bcm
    YjEYrTI2RbxU6bcm
    RfNPocQykKZiUGZG
    AJkhALnQHiV2AumC

    • Wiederhole diese Prozedur des Erwärmens und Aufschneidens für die restlichen drei Seiten des Smartphones.

    • Lasse ein Plektrum unter jeder Kante stecken, damit sich der Kleber nicht wieder verbinden kann.

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell -

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD -

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 -

  11. RD4BdU6nOk2uCQlK
    RD4BdU6nOk2uCQlK
    14RSbSlgRfHLLDwM

    • Schneide mit einem Plektrum durch alle noch verbliebenen Kleberreste.

    • Entferne das rückseitige Glas.

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott -

    This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

    John Murphy -

  12. odbBTcnmmjwTw5yB
    odbBTcnmmjwTw5yB
    dL1WRFobffomWjxT

    • So wird das neue Rückseitenglas eingebaut:

    • Ziehe alle verbliebenen Kleberreste mit einer Pinzette von der Glasscheibe und vom Rahmen des Smartphones ab.

    • Reinige die Klebeflächen mit hoch konzentriertem Isopropylalkohol (mindestens 90%) und einem fusselfreien Tuch. Wische nur in eine Richtung, nicht vor und zurück. Die Oberfläche wird so für den neuen Kleber vorbereitet.

    • Ziehe die Schutzfolie vom neuen Rückseitenglas ab und richte es sorgfältig am Rahmen des Smartphones aus. Drücke dann das Glas am Rahmen fest.

    • Wenn du dein altes Rückseitenglas wieder einbauen willst, oder dein Ersatzteil keine Klebestreifen vorinstalliert hat, dann folge dieser Anleitung.

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz -

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason -

  13. B6ME41MIiXmNu4ym

    • Entferne die dreizehn 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, mit denen der Mittelrahmen am Smartphone befestigt ist.

    Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

    David Whyte -

    Some of the female threads are soft plastic and will strip out easily (especially those near the bottom). I was pressing down too hard when removing these screws, and several of them stripped out. The frame still screwed together, but I couldn’t get them very tight.

    Jordan Butler -

  14. Ho2IlIrxMAAKrLE3
    Ho2IlIrxMAAKrLE3
    NZQedcChOiqWWaLG
    Csl5mveVaSkJ5dQb

    • Achte unbedingt darauf, dass du den SIM-Kartenschub ausgeworfen hast, bevor du diesen Schritt hier durchführst.

    • Fasse die Kante der Mittelrahmeneinheit und halte sie gut fest.

    • Drücke den Akku nach unten und hebe gleichzeitig die Mittelrahmeneinheit hoch, damit sie sich vom restlichen Smartphone löst.

    • Achte darauf, dass der Mittelrahmen sich nicht an der Kopfhörerbuchse oder der Ladebuchse verhakt, während du ihn anhebst.

    • Wenn der Mittelrahmen teilweise abgelöst ist, führe vorsichtig ein Plektrum um die Kanten des restliche Smartphone herum, um den oberen Teil des Mittelrahmens abzulösen.

    • Setze das Plektrum nicht versehentlich zwischen der Glasscheibe und dem Display ein.

    • Um Schäden an der Kopfhörerbuchse zu vermeiden, entferne zuerst den oberen Teil des Mittelrahmens, und drücke den Mittelrahmen dann nach unten, um ihn von der Kopfhörerbuchse zu lösen.

    • Falls der Mittelrahmen sich nur schwer abtrennen lässt, kannst du die Kanten des Displays mit einem iOpener erhitzen, um den Kleber am Display aufzuweichen,

    FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

    Armen Orbelyan -

    %#*@ coulda told me sooner

    Geronimo Jones -

    Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

    zikal -

    I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

    databeat1 -

    I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

    Anton -

    i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

    get it fixed -

    When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

    Alex Philip -

    Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

    Daniel Yaben -

    On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

    Brian Hardie -

    Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.

    Thomas Hayes -

  15. SvmlQGmFVeLNajve

    • Hebe die Mittelrahmen Einheit nach oben hin weg, um sie vom Rest des Smartphones zu trennen.

    Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

    TheECanyon -

  16. G1DSkcCIi3ZXXwBu
    G1DSkcCIi3ZXXwBu
    3KFPCa3hvYJKNZEI

    • Trenne den Akkustecker mit Hilfe eines Spudgers von der Fassung auf dem Motherboard.

  17. LF4aeKJO4gIp5jYV
    LF4aeKJO4gIp5jYV
    Cy45ZUtUEuLOBiZT
    ZRs5WQFdVSuAWpGQ

    • Fahre mit einem Plastic Opening Pick zwischen das Gehäuse und den Akku.

    • Halte das Pick so flach wie möglich, um ein Biegen des Akkus zu vermeiden, wodurch dieser beschädigt werden kann und so gefährliche Substanzen austreten können.

    • Drücke das Pick weiter hinein, um den Akku vom Mobiltelefon zu trennen.

    • Wenn der Akku so stark klebt, dass du mit einem Opening Pick nicht weiterkommst, platziere einen warmen iOpener über dem Akku, um den Kleber zu lösen.

    • Eine andere Möglichkeit ist, etwas Isopropylalkohol unter jede Ecke des Akkus zu geben. Lasse es einige Minuten einwirken, um den Klebstoff zu schwächen.

    • Heble nicht am Motherboard, da du dadurch das Mobiltelefon beschädigen kannst.

    Do you have to remove the battery to remove the motherboard? I just need to remove the motherboard for soldering.

    Jake -

    No, it is not necessary to remove the battery.

    cityzen -

    However, it makes it easier to handle the phone with the battery taken off.

    Ben -

    I used a trick from a different phone tear down, but it really helps, slip a length of dental floss under the top edge of the battery, then with a back and forth action of the floss, you can slice through the adhesive and easily remove the battery, worked great on this phone.

    danechapman -

    Dude that's awesome, wish someone would have mentioned this a long time ago. Battery removal can be a pain. Defiantly going to try that sometime soon!

    Felix Robinson -

    Best tip ever!

    vbgagnon -

    Awesome. Thanks!!!

    Gary Vaughan Jr -

    For me, the battery removal was probably as difficult. maybe more so than removing the back or mid-frame. The adhesive on the left side woudn’t let go and the plastic pick couldn’t reach the left-side adhesive to release it. I finally got it through perseverance though.

    Wayne Thomason -

    I heated the battery area for two minutes. Pried slowly with a plastic pic on the outside edge and around the top. Got the center top corner up slightly and used the dental floss trick. Worked well!

    Thomas Hayes -

    IFixit makes a tool about 5 inches long with a black plastic handle and a flat metal blade that is great for this. It’s a perfect prying tool. It’s about 4 inches of thicker plastic handle and 1 inch of steel blade. I would think if it was a sharp blade, it would be ideal for slicing through this type of adhesive. Like the dental floss idea also. Will try that on the next one.

    Rex Burrus -

    The steel blade tool is also great for removing the battery adhesive and back adhesive. Use like a dull chisel scraping up small chunks until done.

    Rex Burrus -

    Hi Rex,

    I think the tool you are thinking of is the Jimmy! It is indeed a versatile tool for many opening purposes. However, we do not recommend it for battery removal, as the dull metal blade can still slice through the battery pouch.

    Arthur Shi -

    the battery was pretty tough for me. I used two of the blue picks and lots of isopropanol wipes.

    Michael -

  18. o24o621KnRCvZcDn
    o24o621KnRCvZcDn
    JdSEFYLhxBJhvXJe

    • Entferne den Akku aus dem Mobiltelefon.

    • Wenn du einen Akku ausgebaut hast, darfst du ihn nicht wieder benutzen, dies wäre ein Sicherheitsrisiko. Ersetze ihn durch einen neuen Akku.

    • Folge dieser Anleitung, um den neuen Akku einzubauen und festzukleben.

    again, mine a UK version was very sticky beware!!

    databeat1 -

    Yes the UK version is very well glued in. I recommend using a flat metal spudger and pushing it in from the bottom right side and then continue doing the same working up. This method seems to be the safest and only takes a minute or two

    martywild10 -

    I used a credit card and a bit of hair dryer to ease it out.

    adele -

    The top of the battery is important to position the cable. Too low and the cable will not reach.

    herbniek -

    how do you put it back together is the real question

    fares -

    check out the guides for “battery adhesive” and replacement of “rear glass”.

    Michael -

    Why can't we re use the same battery?

    Sare -

    There is a significant chance that you may have damaged the battery during the removal process, which can result in an internal short and fire hazard in the future. We strongly advise not to re-use the battery once you have removed it.

    Arthur Shi -

    It is ok if you flatten the battery if it is bent

    Yanny 57 -

    Note that the power button won’t work until the screws are tightened back into the midframe. I tried to turn it on before inserting the screws to the midframe and was worried that I broke something when it wouldn’t turn on. Tightening the screws fixed the issue.

    Also, attaching the battery cable before placing the battery on the new adhesive makes sure that it is in the correct position.

    Geoff Johnston -

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen. Folge beim Einbau der Rückabdeckung aus Glas dieser Anleitung.

Nach Abschluss der Reparatur sollte der Akku kalibriert werden.

Entsorge deinen Elektroabfall fachgerecht.

Tinte & Feder

Dante Mazzanti

Mitglied seit: 14/07/15

35842 Reputation

74 Kommentare

If I had known that replacing the battery was this complicated I would have never bought Galaxy s6.

barb kory -

Mcgyver variation: guitar pick, safety pin, hair dryer, and a west marine camera mount kit's suction cup. got it.

devcyr3n -

Do ya THINK this process MIGHT void your warranty?

peteyfurlong -

weird question , if its under warranty , why would anyone go thru so much trouble just to replace a %#*@ battery

limz555 -

Samsung warrenties are rubbish. Only had the phone 6 months and the charger point broke but bacause my phone had a small crack on it they voided the warrenty and wanted me to pay nearly £200 to replace the screen and back!!!! Now the battery has gone completely- phone is only 8 months old and no use. Safe to say won't be having a Samsung again.

Cathy Vickers -

In the United States it's actually against the law to void someone's warranty because they opened their device up, unless they make any unsupported modifications which are the sole causation of the damage/defect.

Christopher Engelhardt -

I have been trying for 3 days to get the phone open...using all of these instructions and tools. No luck! %#*@!

sailr -

What step are you stuck on?

Evan Noronha -

I've encountered phones where the IOpener was no match for all the adhesive. I succeeded by heating them with an iron that's made for shrinking monocoat covering around the wings of radio controlled model airplanes. You can get them at a good hobby shop for ~$15.00. It's shaped so you can heat around corners and comes with a sock to keep from scratching anything. That method always defeated the adhesive for me.

David Blythe -

If you are using a heat shrink iron as David commented above, keep it in contact with the phone for the shortest possible time required to soften the adhesive. At their highest settings these irons can reach over 200 degrees C (around 400 F) which is hot enough to damage flat cables, and distort or even melt plastic components inside the phone.

mlewus -

The recipe is quite good and easy to follow.

But you should buy the the adhesive film and use it to fix the body again because the old one you have to destroy to handle the screws.

This film you can by at Amazon for 7,50€ and it was delivered within 2 days.

Winfried Vogel -

If you’re really slow and careful (or really lucky like I was), the entire adhesive strip will stay with the glass and none of it stays on the mid-frame. I didn’t have to replace the adhesive because there was only one tiny lifted area on the glass that I was able to put back into the correct position using tweezers.

I did apply more heat around the mid-frame as well as the back-glass though. Since the mid-frame is metal, it sinks heat and the adhesive doesn’t melt until the frame gets hot enough.

Wayne Thomason -

Guys I had the same problem. For those who need to restart the S6 which is not responsive, try holding your power button and volume buttons simultaneously for more than 7 seconds before trying to remove battery which is btw mission impossible 15.

Akica -

Thanks Akica, for your tip. It worked! Had S6 for 18 months and never had any problems until now but didn't realise such a palaver required to take the cover of a phone!

rosemary_mcdonald -

it worked thanks

alaa sassi -

This is why it pays to read the comments! Thank you! Totally worked and saved me a huge headache!

Ell -

This is why it pays to read the comments! Totally worked and saved me a major headache! Thank you for sharing! :)

Ell -

Thanks for the guide! I haven't done it yet as I don't need to, I was just checking to see how hard it would be to replace my phone battery so I would know if I would really have to baby the thing haha...this is a great guide, which I would have no trouble following so my mind is at ease.

Clayton Boyle -

The replacement battery doesn't come with adhesive strips. How can I stick the replacement part down? Can I use those adhesive strips for iPhones? Or clear double sided tape?

Ben Adelie -

Either of those options should work. I'd be partial to using iPhone adhesive strips to make the battery easier to remove the next time around.

Evan Noronha -

Do you if coaxial antenna cable from s6 edge works on s6? I managed to broke it and i dont find to buy for s6.

Tracke -

Hi i am looking for the battery for my Samsung S6 at the moment is out of stock so how long I have to wait?

Bobby Nguang -

Once you get to removing the battery there is some adhesive holding it in place. It is probably a good idea to replace this so the battery does not move around, I used a small amount of UHU all purpose glue.

DO NOT USE super glue as this damages the plastic covering of the battery.

David Foley -

Just did this today. If I had to add anything, you need a LOT of heat, and a VERY thin guitar pick to get between the glass and the midframe. I had to get the back panel to around 100c before the adhesive would give way, a lot hotter than I usually need to get most things apart (75-80c is the norm). Be careful not to burn yourself whilst you're doing this. Also, a larger battery will fit in here! Apparently S7 batteries can fit in the S6, but do your research online before you attempt this.

Stephen De Tomasi -

good post. useful information to phone users of Samsung s6

Chiru S -

Use a purpose built heating pad at 100 degree Celsius eg; https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Uyue-948...

ken -

first time I have attempted this for my Samsung S6 and worked perfectly. I used a hot air gun... at max 110 degrees Celcius. Took about 30 minutes. cheers!

Mark -

Hi, would you recommend changing the battery or just buying a portable charging dock? I'm torn with what to do. I want to change the battery but don't want to damage the phone. Thanks.

Mel Broadwood -

looks like samsung are going backwards, simple to change a battery on my S3

Barry Cook -

Iopener is a joke. Not near enough heat.

Scott Conover -

So before I changed the battery my phone was on 60 percent..then once it was replaced with a new battery it was still at 60 percent..Can anyone tell me if thats good, bad, etc.

Jordan Sanchez -

Coincidence. Batteries ship without a full charge.

Wayne Thomason -

batteries typically ship at 60%. it also the recommended charge if you store batteries for long time.

Michael -

hi! ive just finished replacing the battery after using your method. it worked perfectly! however, now im having problems trying to get the screen on. i placed the phone on charge (as the new battery would need charging) and i attempted to turn it on after 30 mins. The first time i pressed the power button, the blue light at the top came on, the buttons at the bottom near the home button lit up and i heard the samsung start up sound, but nothing showed on the screen. the second time i pressed the power button (while battery was still being charged, the bottom buttons, again, lit up and the red charging indicator light remained on but i didnt get the samsung start up sound and the blue light as i did the first time. Is this just an issue with the battery not being charged still or is there possibly something wrong with the connector on my motherboard?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Tyranique Thurston -

Just swapped out my battery… took about half an hour for me too. I would recommend a hair dryer over the heat pad they give you. Put the hi dryer on high and steadily went over the back panel for about 3 to 4 minutes moving medium slow…. I used the adhesive that I bought for the phon that matches the frame, but t had to buy on amazon for it. Also, needed just a bit of double sided tape to put the new battery on in place.

Overall though it’s a great kit and instructions!!! Gonna have to do another Samsung 6 soon, but the cost for the kit andbatteries is way cheaper than anew phone or the $120 to have someone do it for me. Though I am technically very capable to do the repair, anyone should be fine doing it if they can use a screw driver and just take their time.

Scott Boskovich -

What the &&^&, are you joking with this $@$*? If you need to remove a phone's battery, it should just be a hands-only process, not some hour long ordeal with specific tools that are useless for any other job. What brainless douche came up with such a pain in the ass design for a phone? Ridiculous!

sgt ROCK -

This was super easy to do. The kits on Amazon fit perfectly. Used my hobby iron and went around the edges for about 3 minutes set at 100C (212F) and everything came off real easy with no damage to anything. Took about 40 minutes to do, which included cleaning up the old adhesive and the phone before reassembling. Well worth the effort versus buying a new phone, the new battery is just like the day I bought it.

HockeyDad -

The battery swap is complete, but the screen now is only black, with a momentary flash of a green box when the power button is pressed. Holding the power button/volume button simultaneously has no effect. Could this be a broken screen problem?

Michelle -

Hair drier didn’t work that well for me and I ended up breaking the back, but at £3 on eBay I considered this a small price to pay for less messing about and a quicker fix if you buy it in advance

Tezza de Grey -

You can put the S7 Edge battery into the S6. Fit exactly perfect!!! You can read some review serching in internet

Daniel Yaben -

Hello. My S6 felt in the sink (full of water). Unfortunatly the rear facing camera glass (from the frame) was broken. Couple of water got inside. Already passed a few days, putted the S6 to dry (even in rice), but it still doesn’t power on. Pretty sure it short circuited somewhere. I’m considering replacing the battery and the rear camera. Do you think I have any chance?

presi -

I also wouldn’t have bought this phone if I’d known how hard it is to do the routine maintenance of replacing the battery. Since this is rated as difficult, I was afraid to attempt it myself. I took a new battery and adhesive strips to a local repair shop, SecurePro in SLO, where someone who’s done this many times turned it around perfectly in under half an hour. No more range anxiety!

Cynthia Replogle -

Wasn’t too bad- my only problem / tip (?)- the rear glass on my phone had semi-shattered, so prying the rear cover off caused a few more breaks in the glass- and crucially, the glass seperated from the opaque film backing rather than from the phone. meant having to remove the backing and glue. Which was fine- I didn’t mind having the rear glass broken before but now it is transparent! which actually looks super cool. Great guide.

Hugh Roche Kelly -

Out of curiosity - I replaced the battery with the kit from IFixIt - production date of new battery was early 2018.

Battery is now used for 2 months - and has a capacity of close to 0. So it last for 1/4 day without any interaction; phone typically drops dead at around 40% of the battery. A reboot then shows 0% battery.

Has anyone seen similar behavior.

I’m wondering if replacing the battery jet again makes sense - or if all S6 batteries (even the replacment kits) are just crap.

Nico -

Hi @gohico, sorry to hear that you’re having battery issues! We have a one year warranty on batteries, which you can read more about on our Warranty Page. You can contact our support team at help.ifixit.com and they’ll help you out with a fix or a replacement battery.

Adam O'Camb -

ottima guida…Grazie

Vito -

I replaced the battery this afternoon. All went fairly smoothly although getting the back off was a bit of a struggle.

Only trouble is now my screen is going purple. First a few spots but seems to spread like an oil stain.

Has anyone got any suggestions what might be causing this and if it is reversible?

Marc de Bolster -

this job sucks. shattered my back glass and the front glass began separating from the front screen…I was able to salvage it though and got the battery replaced. but the phone looks like complete trash now (and it was in really good condition). New back is purchased. Not going to mess with the front since it’s working and the glass isn’t broken.

Jerry H -

Thanks for the help. My phone is about two and a half years old and the weak battery finally died. Time for a new battery.

Steven Mackey -

How is this difficult? Seriously, if you can’t even manage a simple procedure like this then you shouldn’t even be attempting this replacement. Take it to a repair shop and give it to someone who knows what they’re doing.

Clems -

I’ve tried about 6 different battery makes now and they are all total crap and none of them are even as good as the 4 year old Samsung battery which now barely lasts half a day.

All the ‘Genuine Samsung Battery’ are complete lies.

pjl321 -

Don’t buy cheap batteries. There are plenty of high-quality replacements out there, including the ones sold on this site, which are backed by a 1-year warranty.

Jeff Suovanen -

I must have what it takes to be a cell phone technition. What this article describes as difficult was extremely easy for me. This is my second phone repair . Thank you for such easy to follow directions.

Doug Ireland -

Clear and thorough guide. Forewarned by the difficulty level, with care and patience I have given my second-hand S6 a new lease of life.

This is the first ifixit kit and guide I have tried and you will definitely be my first port of call for tech repair guidance in future.

Lorn -

I am going to try this soon as the battery in my s6 is slowly dying. It will not stop me from getting a Samsung again as they are the best phones out there.

John Cave -

Very good guide…. thanks for taking the time to write it. Great reference for my repairs!

Jason -

What is an eye opener

Jackie Barnett -

I buy phones that i can replace battery if not i dont buy my samsung has a battery abd i love it idiots who decided to make it hard should be fired but they are just greedy

burnamanjohn -

Sad iFixit doesn’t show how to position its own Adhesive strips Galaxy S6 Battery Adhesive Strips.

No idea how to position both single side tapes.

djibe -

Here are some instructions on how to apply the battery adhesive. I will update the instructions to include this.

Arthur Shi -

there is still no exclusive guid for the s6 battery adhesives… but it is pretty straight forward anyway

Michael -

i broke my Original Display when i trying to remove the battery. fk. now got installed normal LCD display because in Sri Lanka original display cost new galaxy S6 price.:(

Kanishka T Peiris -

The kit from ifixit was thoughtfully engineered and worked very well. The instructions were very clear and accurate. I’ve read, and written, plenty of instructions for manufacturing and assembling finicky parts, and these are among the best I’ve seen. Nice job all around. Took 1 hour, as advertised, and the phone works afterward!

Thomas David -

Well, thats me just completed the swap out, the battery was the original since release so no shame to it. but fingers crossed this gives it a new lease of life.

was really nervous trying to get the rear glass off. unfortunately after an hour of so, the iopener just didnt seem to have much of an effect on the crazily strong adhesive, or it was just me being too nervous to pry to hard. ended up preheating a side edge with the iopener, then going in with the heat gun for a larger area to get the picks under.

there was one problem i had getting the screen back into the midframe. i had to do the reverse of whats shown here, and putting in the headphone jack edge first, since going the other way there just seemed like too much pressure needed to pop it back in since at that area there was quite a bit of overlap and i probably would have ended up breaking front glass.

but, job done, but yep, putting it back together in other edge first worked a treat.

fingers crossed i get another 5 years outta my phone :)

Darren McBain -

I DID IT! and the best part is, is works! now the only question I have is, what do i do with the old battery?

sarah spencer -

Congratulations! Take a look at this page to figure out how to responsibly dispose of the battery.

Arthur Shi -

The iOpener did not effectively heat my adhesive - I tore some of the plastic film attached to the glass because the adhesive was still stuck to the frame. Otherwise, a great kit and fairly simple to follow instructions. The longest part by far was detaching the adhesive stuck behind on the frame when I removed my backing glass. Reassembly took only about 5 minutes!

Melinda Tom -

Managed to get it to work with a heat gun an no iOpener, freaked me out but worked in the end

The Awesome Productions -

The main reason it’s a difficult disassembly is, because Samsung uses a fck-ton of adhesive. 90% of my time was spent heating, reheating and pulling on the back cover and later the middle frame. The rest is easy peasy lemon squeazy.

What a horrible way to make any repairs super difficult. Shame on Samsung!

Peeeeeeeeeeeeeee -

LCD Opening Pliers work wonders. These are like pliers with 2 suction cups that go on the front and back. A bit of gentle pressure will start to lift off the back slightly and you can then separate it further with a pick. In my opinion these instructions are overly complicated.

Paul Watkins -

Vous avez fait une omission vient de détruire mon téléphone, il y a une nappe très petite pour le bouton de dévérouillage qui fait le lien ente le chassis et le boitier !!

Je ne vous dis pas merci

Thomas Febvin -

Bonjour Thomas, nous sommes désolés d'apprendre que vous avez rencontré un problème avec votre réparation. Aviez-vous retiré le tiroir de carte SIM au début de la réparation ?

Claire Miesch -

What type of glue/tape can you use to close it?

zaynabb818 -

There was no guide referenced for replacing the adhesive for the motherboard and the midframe. The reverse order of the steps doesn't help replace the damaged or missing adhesives. What would be the best substitute to hold it in place?

No replacement adhesive was included in the ifixit battery replacement kit for attaching the midframe back to the front board/glass.

Thank you for providing this guide, it helped me a lot in the removal of the battery in the S6 I am attempting to repair.

Micheal -