Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 8.0 Ladebuchse austauschen

The whole screen needs to be heated, there is adhesive in the middle as well. The general consensus seems to be that around 80ºC is the temperature to go for, but I found I had to set a heated platform to 85ºC to be able to get the adhesive soft enough, and even then it was not exactly giving up easily.

STOP! Read the comments, do a google search. You don’t need to remove the screen to replace the battery. You can just remove the clipped in case back. I wish I would have known this, it is extremely difficult to remove the screen without damaging it (which I did.)

This is different from yours. The qualcomm version is newer and does not have a removeable back. I’ve tried. You can tell from the later pics in this guide that the back doesn’t come out.

You’ll notice all the videos online that remove the back are typically not English speakers.

There is no warning about how close the LCD cable is to where you are instructing to insert the pick. Also No warning about menu/back buttons.

This won’t work. There is no way that a guitar pick is going to go in between the bezel and the glass and lift it up. You need to attach a sucker to the glass around the middle of a long side (ideally the righthand side) and pull it, when the whole screen is hot enough to soften the glue. That will open a gap big enough to get a pick in. Picks alone will not free the screen, because they are not long enough, and if you are careless around the bottom (or even if not) chances are you will at the very least disturb the ribbon with the home buttons etc. See the pic in Step 5 (which does not match its caption, but shows the main board removed - if you look at the front of the main board, you can see that the right-hand touch button sensor has been damaged and pushed up out of place. This is not necessarily a major issue - a replacement button ribbon is not that expensive - but it’s worth knowing about.

Do not try to lift all round the screen with picks like this, it will break. Although it is fragile, it will bend a certain amount, and the digitiser glass is actually pretty tough, but the LCD beneath is delicate, glued down, and also surprisingly expensive - the screens on these are super high res, an unusual aspect ratio, and cost a fortune compared with typical tablet screens. If you have the t713 model, and break the screen, you can fit the LCD from, I think, any of the other models in the series; they are the same resolution and spec but for some reason a different part number, and the “official” one for the T713 is at least 50% more expensive than the others (which are still pricey.) (I know for a fact that the T710 screen works on the 713 because I broke mine, and took a chance on the cheaper screen.)

No warning about the adhesive covering the middle of the LCD holding it down, this will cause the LCD to crack when removing as instructed by this method unless that is completely cleared first, and this is not possible using picks that go in 1 inch.

Seconded the above comment. You need to slide thin, heat-stable plastic card under the screen from the edges in, slicing through the glue, paying particular attention to where it’s glued down in the middle/left, near the ribbon. You will very likely damage the home/back button sensors and ribbon, this probably can’t be helped and that part is cheap to replace. You will also damage the lightproof rubber gasket around the front camera, again, can’t be helped. The important thing is not to break the LCD or its ribbon. The plastic cover shown in the next stage with the caption about disconnecting the ribbon will stop your slicing card from damaging the ribbon connector, and there’s no glue on that or immediately to the right of the ribbon. But there is glue on the metal frame beneath the ribbon, and it’s very tenacious glue. There’s another patch of it on the righthand side of the metal frame, which is shorter. The strip on the left is nearly the whole length of the metal bit.

So with reference to the second picture here, you need to slice under the screen from the left with a stiff card, starting from about where the person’s left thumb is, and right down to the bottom, going under the screen about 3cm, to just short of a line extending up the screen from the lefthand lower touch button, where the leftmost pick is positioned in the picture. From the right, you need to slice in about halfway across the screen,all the way down to just before the righthand lower touch button. And you need to slice in about 2cm top and bottom, and 1cm for the upper left side and the lower right side (the bits you didn’t slice further under for). Only when you are convinced that the only thing still holding the screen on is the ribbon should you attempt to lift it more than a millimetre on any edge. As I said above, it will bend a bit, but lift any more while the glue on the metal frame is still attached and the LCD, which is much thinner than the digitiser glass, will shatter.

Where is the cable? Top left corner or bottom right corner?

The ribbon cable is in the top left corner of the tablet, and folded - there’s no glue on the ribbon itself, but there is glue along the edge beside it, and glue along both sides of the metal frame you can see here - that glue is attached directly to the delicate LCD part of the display, which will shatter if you try to lift the display assembly while that glue is still attached. There is no glue on the exposed part of the face of the battery (white bit). There’s a thin strip of glue down the length of each long edge, but no glue between those strips and the metal frame - you can see where the glue is, in fact, on the above photo. The top and bottom edges have a wider strip of glue than the sides do. The thing being prised out in the picture is a plastic cover, not the connector itself. It’s wedged in quite tightly and needs to bend somewhat before it’ll pop out exposing the connector, which can then just be delicately separated with a spudger by lifting it up.

Wrong picture?

This picture seems to be the result of step 6.

This doesn’t show the screen, it shows the mainboard removed, though the small metal cage about 1/3 up from the bottom right, and the camera, should be attached to the main board (leftmost in the picture) and not left behind on the frame. If you look carefully at the main board shown here, which is viewed from the top side (i.e. the side the screen was glued to), you can see the touch button sensor has been torn away and pushed up on top of the battery (middle of the lower edge of the flat metal battery frame) The sensor is meant to be down beside the home button, like the one on the left. It’s really hard not to do this while separating the screen glue, but don’t panic if you do because the ribbon assembly is detachable and fairly cheap (a few pounds UK).

There are fifteen screws, almost where shown, but not quite - most are around the edges and pretty obvious, two hold the spring-loaded recessed button things (for a dock I suppose) and there’s one next to the camera. To lift the main board out, once you’ve removed the 15 screws, it will seem like it’s still stuck top and bottom. There are tabs at the top, and the connectors hold it at the bottom. Press in the springloaded dock recess button thing from behind to lift the top lefthand corner of the main board enough to get a pick under, and just wedge it like that or get a fingernail under it. Then take a chisel type craft knife blade or something equally thin and strong (I was unable to do this with a plastic spudger) gently lever the top edge of the plastic away from the edge and pop the tabs free. Refer to the picture in stage 5 to see the tabs on the top edge.

Once the top edge is free, the board will lift away at the top, but still be stuck at the bottom - again, lever it a bit with something thin. The bit that will hang on is the 3.5mm headphone jack - it sort of clips into the frame a bit - be gentle and patient, you don’t want to bend the mainboard.

Some of the charging boards for these have a microphone on a ribbon as well, presumably for the versions that also function as a cell phone. Check which sort you need. In picture 1 here you can see the kind of plastic “claws” on the 3.5mm headphone socket that clip the bottom of the board to the frame.