Sennheiser SK100 G3 button replacement

Geschrieben von: Angela Penaherrera
  • Kommentare: 28
Sennheiser SK100 G3 button replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

8

Zeitaufwand

10 - 15 Minuten

Einleitung

Normally these buttons get damaged from pushing them too hard. The tactile switch stops bending and making contact, or it just bends all the way and wont stop changing your settings.

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    • Turn off the transmitter and take out the batteries.

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    • This is the button that's not working. All the other buttons have the same parts so if a different button is damaged, you can replace it the same way.

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    • On the lower side of the transmitter there is a small stick holding the compartment cover.

    • Push it with your Torx Screwdriver so that the stick slides out, releasing the compartment cover.

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    • Remove the 4 torx screws on the back.

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    • Remove the back cover and remove one more torx screw on the upper left corner.

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    • Carefully remove the front cover and locate the tactile switch that´s giving you a hard time.

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    • With a spudger o a small flat head screwdriver, carefully remove tactile switch.

    • It's not too hard to loosen up but you should do it softly.

    Hello I want to know where can I get the replacement led , which it’s located under the display

    Eduardo Abreu -

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    • Notice the metal contacts and the direction of the tactile switchs. The small metal tab faces your right.

    • Place the new tactile switch. I didn't use glue but a tiny piece of 2mm adhesive sticker tape can work just as well.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Angela Penaherrera

Mitglied seit: 06/05/13

12541 Reputation

27 Kommentare

Hi -

I just want to say thank you! I made the repair exactly as shown and put a teeny drop of rubber cement in the middle of the new tactile plate to hold it in place, happy to say it all appears to work fine. As for the part itself, the part # is the same for the G3 and you can order from them in CT, USA.

cheers,

pete

peter tooke -

Cool! I'm glad the guide helped you with your repair! do you happen to have the website for the store that sells them?

^_^

Angela

Angela Penaherrera -

Yup! This works. :-)

I have the Sennheiser ew100 G3. The "down" arrow button was stuck and I couldn't change anything in my menus. What a pain!

So, I ordered two of the buttons from www.fullcompass.com this last week (item number 072512). At fullcompass, they call it a "Switch, Power SK100G2/SK100G3". It's the same button for the up arrow, down arrow, on/off and set buttons. It was $1.99 each and I ordered 2 plus $3 shipping.

I used a small screwdriver to gently pop the old button off and it actually came out in two pieces instead of one.

Anyway, I placed the new button on the little prongs and made sure it faced the same direction as the other buttons on the board. I put a little (and I mean little) piece of electrical tape over the side of the button. I'm talking like 1mm wide by 1cm long.

Screwed everything back together and voila! Working Sennheiser. Saved me almost $100 in repair. :-)

Thanks!

AngelAndres -

Always happy to know of a successful repair! Good job and thanks for sharing your story ^_^

Angela Penaherrera -

What holds the new switch on? How are the contacts made without soldering?

Charles Kaiser -

Yes I'm curious about this too. The buttons are soldered to the board from what I can tell.

mapoff98 -

I put a small piece of 2mm double sided tape on one corner. The soldering that was there was minimal, just to keep it in place from the looks of it. It has not given me any problems and have now been using it for more than a year!

Angela Penaherrera -

tell me model tactile switch please!!! and where it can be purchased? I live in Russia in the province and we have problems with spare parts

Viktor -

Hi victor, the model and name parts with the link of where to purchase are listed above ^__^

Sennheiser 072512

Power Switch For SK100G2/SK300G2

Angela Penaherrera -

Hi,

very nice instruction!!

I have a Problem with the "mute" switch..

It doesn't work anymore and is hanging loose without being conected to the board. Any help to Switch Mute function off without installing a new Switch??

Thanks

René

Rene2k -

Wonderful guide, very clear, thank you so much!

JLGGCENTRAL -

I,

'am a french videographer from Paris and i have the same problem. 2 days ago i ordered this spare parts to fullcompass but they replied that they don't send any things outside of America. So, I want to know if any one of you can send me 2 spare parts. If yes I promised to send back 10 dollar to sender. Best wishes

Marc

Marc -

hi,

I don't know if i do right asking help for repair my sennheiser sk 100 G3 so i repete that i ordered (as it'swritten on Ifixit) the switch power 072512 for sk 100 G2/G3 by Fullcompass but they want 118, 44dollars for sending (i live in Paris) this spare parts which cost 2,2 dolars each; so i need help from any IFIXIT's users to get this parts cheeper . Thanks to every one.

Marc

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Marc -

I must be doing something wrong. The button seems to be soldered in place. I've tried gently prying it but it does not pop off, move or anything. Any suggestions?

Ashley James -

Success! The first time took me about 25 minutes, but the 2nd time took under 15 minutes. Would be good to have a few pics explaining the reassembly & other loose pieces that can fall out along the way. I would keep a 2nd assembled unit at hand to look at to help you orient the pieces when you reassemble.

 

Regarding prying off, just take a flat precision screwdriver and carefully peel it off. Rotate around to each side, each corner until you can get a bite, and then start pulling it up. Mine ripped into several pieces but it's going in the trash anyway. Get the area clean enough so that the 4 little metal corners have no debris left around them.

Roddy Dubb -

Regarding attaching, I used toupee tape (double-sided, good stick) and cut a narrow 2mm strip on one end, then I cut several little triangles to have on hand. I attached a little tape triangle to the underside of the new switch, peeled off the tape backing, and carefully placed it on the circuit board using a tweezers. Then pressed down semi-firmly on the switch with a blunt end to ensure it's secure and won't come off. Put batteries in and tested good.

 

p.s. btw, my G2 buttons had all the small metal tabs on the Left side rather than the Right, so I'm not sure if it's critical which direction the tab faces as long as it's square on the posts.

Roddy Dubb -

Where I can bay spare parts for Sennheiser body pack tramsmiter???

kirmesh62 -

Worked like a charm to fix my G3 transmitter. Thanks so much for this guide!

Deuteranope -

Thanks! Took about 15 minutes. All is good.

David C. -

Dind’t have the replacement part in hand but this tutorial inspired me a workaround. Since I was unable to remove the tactile switch, i worked through it and popped the metalic part out of the white plastic part. Put it all back together and though it was not feeling as it should (the button is not popping like the other), I regain control of the “ Down “ button.

Jeremy Beauchesne -

Sennheiser link, price quoted in GB Pounds, Euro and U.S dollars, will post to all of EU for about 8 - 10 Eu

https://spares.sennheiser.co.uk/sennheis...

Philip Preddy -

So is the switch not soldered down to begin with from the factory?

Hudson -

Ah, it is soldered down. My advice is to be very careful when ripping parts off the PWB. This can rip the pads off the PWB and thus there will be nothing to connect to again.

Hudson -

I have the original buttons that you show in your tutorial which by the way is great. However, I ordered the parts and they came black with no metal tab on 1 side so as to allow me to figure out which pins to line up. https://www.audiolabga.com/data_html/072...

Megiddo -

where can I still buy the tact switch for ek 100 g3? Thanks!

philipco06 -

The up and down buttons on my Sennheiser ew300 G3 transmitter were not working. I purchased two of Item #072512 from Full Compass for around $2 each, plus shipping. I think it came to about 10 or12 dollars total. I also bought a Husky precision screwdriver set from Home Depot. With the right screwdrivers, the device is easy to take apart. The old switches took some time to gently pry off, so be patient. They’ll eventually come off. All the switches are oriented in the same direction, so you’re fine as long as you don’t pry them all four of them off simultaneously without observing their orientation. I used a tiny dab of rubber cement, applied with the pick of a DenTek flosser, to secure the new switches. I carefully positioned them the contacts so they looked like the other two switches, and I pressed down on them a bit so that they’d stick properly. Both were nice and clicky. I was worried they wouldn’t make a proper connection with the contacts, but once it was assembled, both buttons worked fine. Success!

Matthew Raymond -

The original switches are definitely soldered to the board. After placing the replacement switch in the correct position and orientation, I used surface mount solder paste and a surface mount hot air gun with narrow tip to melt the paste and flow the solder onto the new switch connectors. Be very cautious not to point the air flow toward the display so as not to melt it's thin wires. ;-) I suppose that the folks who just taped the replacement switches in place are successful because pressing the button also presses the physical switch to guarantee it's connections to the old solder points...

Jack Bozzuffi Jr -