Steam Deck Audio-Platine tauschen

Geschrieben von: Carsten Frauenheim

Kommentare: 53

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten - 1 Stunde

Einleitung

Benutze diese Anleitung, um die Audio-Platine in deinem Steam Deck auszutauschen.

Bevor du anfängst, achte darauf, das Gerät komplett auszuschalten und alle Kabel auszustecken. Folge allen allgemeinen Vorsichtsmaßnahmen zur Vermeidung von elektrostatischen Entladungen (ESD) bei der Reparatur.

Die Audio-Platine beherbergt die Kopfhörerbuchse des Steam Deck sowie die Lautstärkeregler.

Werkzeuge

Schritt 1

Schalte das Steam Deck ein und entlade den Akku auf unter 25%, bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst. Aus einem geladenen Lithium-Ionen-Polymer-Akku können gefährliche Chemikalien austreten, wenn er versehentlich angestochen wird.
Valve empfiehlt als zusätzliche Sicherheitsmaßnahme den Akku im BIOS in den battery storage mode (Akkuspeichermodus) zu versetzen, bevor du mit Reparaturen an inneren Bauteilen anfängst. Hier steht, wie das geht.
Schalte das Steam Deck komplett aus und ziehe alle Stecker ab.
Wenn du eine microSD-Karte angeschlossen hast, dann musst du sie entfernen, bevor du das Steam Deck öffnest. Wenn du die Rückseite ausbaust, ohne die Karte zu entfernen, kann sie in zwei Teile zerbrechen.
Es kann hilfreich sein, wenn du während der Reparatur das Steam Deck mit der Oberseite nach unten in seine Hülle legst, um die Joysticks zu schützen und Wackeln zu vermeiden.

Schritt 2

Entferne die acht Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Rückabdeckung befestigt ist:
Vier 9,5 mm Schrauben
Vier 5,8 mm Schrauben
Achte während der gesamten Reparatur auf jede einzelne Schraube und sorge dafür, dass sie genau dorthin zurückkommt, wo sie vorher war, damit dein Steam Deck nicht beschädigt wird.

there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step

Nathan Barrow -

I agree, I just broke mine...

Camille B -

What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.

Christopher Martin -

I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.

Mark D -

I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)

Chris Clawson -

Be careful you can strip the screws take your time

I use PH00 bit

jaybush74 -

I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.

Charles Semple -

are there playstation replacements (circle,square,cross,triangle)

Deór -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 size for the screws on the back.

Luis B - 10/01/23

I've completed the guide and found it very helpful!

I think somewhere in this part it would be helpful to name the size of the correct Phillips driver to use:

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

Four 9.5 mm screws

Four 5.8 mm screws

Maynard -

I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.

Pol Llovet -

Schritt 3

Setze ein Plektrum in die schmale Fuge zwischen Rückabdeckung und Vorderschale an der Kante des rechten Griffs ein.
Heble die Rückabdeckung hoch, um sie aus den Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie befestigt ist.

I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.

Peter Lindberg -

second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side

Sub -

I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier

Travis Patton -

Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged

Luis B -

this as suggested above:

1. open the top

2. open the bottom

3.gently open the sides

austrasier - 17/04/23

same; i pried from the top of the screen area. I was unable to find an opening on the side

Dennis Wu -

I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.

Kaleb McKone -

It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.

CaptFrost -

plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open

jacobbagsic -

I found it easiest to open starting with R1 or L1 buttons and proceeding to the center of the top edge

Karol Gro -

Schritt 4

Wenn alle Clips von einer Kante gelöst sind, kann der Rest ganz einfach entfernt werden.
Fasse die Rückabdeckung an der Öffnung, die du gerade erstellt hast, und ziehe sie nach oben vom Gerät weg, um die Clips an den langen Kanten zu lösen.
Entferne die Rückabdeckung.

If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.

Novice -

Schritt 5

Entferne mithilfe einer Pinzette das Stück Klebefolie auf der versteckten Schraube auf der Platinenabschirmung.
Versuche die Klebefolie nach Möglichkeit nicht zu zerreißen, sodass sie wiederverwendet werden kann. Wenn es nötig ist, kannst du dir auch ein passendes Ersatzstück aus Aluminiumfolie zurechtschneiden und einkleben.

Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.

If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.

Matt S -

Schritt 6

Benutze einen Schraubendreher, um die drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Abschirmung der Platine befestigt ist:
Eine 3,4 mm Schraube
Zwei 3,7 mm Schrauben

The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.

Y. van S -

Any updates? Did they let you RMA?

Emanuel Gjoni -

I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D

Andy HL -

I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.

I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.

Charles Semple -

What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?

Corey Cleric -

if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?

pujattidanny -

have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck

briaNN -

button Not key, i’m sorry

pujattidanny -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 PH for these screws with no issue

Luis B -

If only swapping the SSD, it is not necessary to remove the top left 3.7mm screw. The heat shield is flexible enough that you can move it out of the way to access the SSD screw. For me this was necessary as the 3.7mm screw was completely unmovable and quickly stripped.

Scott A -

FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.

Seth Robinson -

Schritt 7

Entferne die Abschirmung der Platine.
Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass das Kabel seitlich an der Platinenabschirmung verläuft und nicht darunter eingeklemmt ist.

When putting back on, run a pick along the edge of the shield between the wires to make sure nothing is pinching and the wires are clear of the shield before screwing down.

Matt S -

Schritt 8

Fasse das Akkukabel an seiner Zuglasche und ziehe es vom Motherboard weg, um es abzutrennen.
Du kannst den Stecker auch mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss herausschieben und dann endgültig mit der Hand abtrennen.

After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!

Michael Hoffmann -

Awesome thanks for this tip!

petergeranio -

It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.

Gene Eckser - 08/08/22

This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...

Ian Wootten -

I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.

montgomery mchargue -

Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.

montgomery mchargue -

When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable

Michael Davis -

Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?

Jeffrey Martin -

Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.

Stefan Camporese (CENTER) - 12/11/22

Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.

David Cameron -

I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.

Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.

William Winborne - 09/01/23

This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently

Luis B - 10/01/23

I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?

junefish -

Schritt 9

Benutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um den kleinen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Audio-Kabels anzuheben.

Schritt 10

Schiebe das Kabel mithilfe einer Pinzette aus seinem Anschluss.
Fasse das Kabel an der Zuglasche und nicht am Kabel selbst.

Schritt 11

Benutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um den weißen Sicherungsbügel am Mikrofon-Kabel anzuheben.
Du solltest es spüren können, wenn sich der Stecker entriegelt.
Ziehe das Mikrofon-Kabel mit einer Pinzette hoch und aus seinem Stecker heraus.
Wenn der Stecker korrekt entriegelt wurde, sollte sich das Mikrofon-Kabel problemlos herausholen lassen.
Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass der Sicherungsbügel in der entriegelten angehobenen Position ist, bevor du das Mikrofon-Kabel einsetzt. Drücke auf den Sicherungsbügel, um das Kabel an seinem Platz zu verriegeln.

Schritt 12

Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die beiden 3,7 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Audio-Platine befestigt ist.

Schritt 13

Fasse die Audio-Platine mit einer Pinzette an der Kopfhörerbuchse.
Klappe die Platine nach oben und aus ihrer Vertiefung heraus, um sie zu entfernen.

Where can I buy an audio board?

Mark Perdue -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Versuche es mit einigen grundsätzlichen Lösungsansätzen, ansonsten findest du in unserem Steam Deck Forum Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.

Tinte & Feder

Carsten Frauenheim

Mitglied seit: 10/03/20

88317 Reputation

4 Kommentare

When will the audio board be available? Currently the part isn't even listed.

Bónitz András -

So glad that Steam made it easy for user to buy individual parts from a 3rd party, much more to iFix it. Can't wait to get my hands on this beast.

Sarah kai -

Any chance of a photo of the underside of the audio board, I need to replace the headphone socket for a friend and can't tell which version to order so that i only have to take it apart once.

Erik Carlson -

請問，音頻小板什麼時候有零件可以購買

rickwang1978 -