Steam Deck linke Schultertaste tauschen

Geschrieben von: Carsten Frauenheim

Kommentare: 64

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

45 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Benutze diese Anleitung, um die linke Schultertaste (L1) in deinem Steam Deck zu ersetzen.

Achte während der Reparatur auf allgemeine Vorsichtsmaßnahmen zur Vermeidung von elektrostatischen Entladungen (ESD = engl. electrostatic discharge).

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Steam Deck Left Bumper Button Assembly

Schritt 1

Schalte das Steam Deck ein und entlade den Akku auf unter 25%, bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst. Aus einem geladenen Lithium-Ionen-Polymer-Akku können gefährliche Chemikalien austreten, wenn er versehentlich angestochen wird.
Valve empfiehlt als zusätzliche Sicherheitsmaßnahme den Akku im BIOS in den battery storage mode (Akkuspeichermodus) zu versetzen, bevor du mit Reparaturen an inneren Bauteilen anfängst. Hier steht, wie das geht.
Schalte das Steam Deck komplett aus und ziehe alle Stecker ab.
Wenn du eine microSD-Karte angeschlossen hast, dann musst du sie entfernen, bevor du das Steam Deck öffnest. Wenn du die Rückseite ausbaust, ohne die Karte zu entfernen, kann sie in zwei Teile zerbrechen.
Es kann hilfreich sein, wenn du während der Reparatur das Steam Deck mit der Oberseite nach unten in seine Hülle legst, um die Joysticks zu schützen und Wackeln zu vermeiden.

Schritt 2

Entferne die acht Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Rückabdeckung befestigt ist:
Vier 9,5 mm Schrauben
Vier 5,8 mm Schrauben
Achte während der gesamten Reparatur auf jede einzelne Schraube und sorge dafür, dass sie genau dorthin zurückkommt, wo sie vorher war, damit dein Steam Deck nicht beschädigt wird.

there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step

Nathan Barrow -

I agree, I just broke mine...

Camille B -

What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.

Christopher Martin -

I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.

Mark D -

I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)

Chris Clawson -

Be careful you can strip the screws take your time

I use PH00 bit

jaybush74 -

I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.

Charles Semple -

are there playstation replacements (circle,square,cross,triangle)

Deór -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 size for the screws on the back.

Luis B - 10/01/23

I've completed the guide and found it very helpful!

I think somewhere in this part it would be helpful to name the size of the correct Phillips driver to use:

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

Four 9.5 mm screws

Four 5.8 mm screws

Maynard -

I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.

Pol Llovet -

Schritt 3

Setze ein Plektrum in die schmale Fuge zwischen Rückabdeckung und Vorderschale an der Kante des rechten Griffs ein.
Heble die Rückabdeckung hoch, um sie aus den Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie befestigt ist.

I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.

Peter Lindberg -

second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side

Sub -

I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier

Travis Patton -

Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged

Luis B -

this as suggested above:

1. open the top

2. open the bottom

3.gently open the sides

austrasier - 17/04/23

same; i pried from the top of the screen area. I was unable to find an opening on the side

Dennis Wu -

I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.

Kaleb McKone -

It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.

CaptFrost -

plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open

jacobbagsic -

I found it easiest to open starting with R1 or L1 buttons and proceeding to the center of the top edge

Karol Gro -

Schritt 4

Wenn alle Clips von einer Kante gelöst sind, kann der Rest ganz einfach entfernt werden.
Fasse die Rückabdeckung an der Öffnung, die du gerade erstellt hast, und ziehe sie nach oben vom Gerät weg, um die Clips an den langen Kanten zu lösen.
Entferne die Rückabdeckung.

If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.

Novice -

Schritt 5

Entferne mithilfe einer Pinzette das Stück Klebefolie auf der versteckten Schraube auf der Platinenabschirmung.
Versuche die Klebefolie nach Möglichkeit nicht zu zerreißen, sodass sie wiederverwendet werden kann. Wenn es nötig ist, kannst du dir auch ein passendes Ersatzstück aus Aluminiumfolie zurechtschneiden und einkleben.

Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.

If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.

Matt S -

Schritt 6

Benutze einen Schraubendreher, um die drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Abschirmung der Platine befestigt ist:
Eine 3,4 mm Schraube
Zwei 3,7 mm Schrauben

The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.

Y. van S -

Any updates? Did they let you RMA?

Emanuel Gjoni -

I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D

Andy HL -

I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.

I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.

Charles Semple -

What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?

Corey Cleric -

if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?

pujattidanny -

have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck

briaNN -

button Not key, i’m sorry

pujattidanny -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 PH for these screws with no issue

Luis B -

If only swapping the SSD, it is not necessary to remove the top left 3.7mm screw. The heat shield is flexible enough that you can move it out of the way to access the SSD screw. For me this was necessary as the 3.7mm screw was completely unmovable and quickly stripped.

Scott A -

FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.

Seth Robinson -

Schritt 7

Entferne die Abschirmung der Platine.
Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass das Kabel seitlich an der Platinenabschirmung verläuft und nicht darunter eingeklemmt ist.

When putting back on, run a pick along the edge of the shield between the wires to make sure nothing is pinching and the wires are clear of the shield before screwing down.

Matt S -

Schritt 8

Fasse das Akkukabel an seiner Zuglasche und ziehe es vom Motherboard weg, um es abzutrennen.
Du kannst den Stecker auch mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss herausschieben und dann endgültig mit der Hand abtrennen.

After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!

Michael Hoffmann -

Awesome thanks for this tip!

petergeranio -

It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.

Gene Eckser - 08/08/22

This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...

Ian Wootten -

I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.

montgomery mchargue -

Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.

montgomery mchargue -

When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable

Michael Davis -

Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?

Jeffrey Martin -

Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.

Stefan Camporese (CENTER) - 12/11/22

Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.

David Cameron -

I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.

Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.

William Winborne - 09/01/23

This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently

Luis B - 10/01/23

I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?

junefish -

Schritt 9

Der linke Trigger wird sich zu deiner Rechten befinden, wenn du am Steam Deck arbeitest, da es verkehrt herum liegt.
Die Trigger des Steam Deck sind mit zwei Stiften an der Trigger-Halterung befestigt, die gleichzeitig als Scharnier dient.
Setze das flache Ende eines Spudgers auf die Innenkante des linken Clips des Triggers.
Klappe den Trigger-Clip heraus, und aus dem Stift nach oben heraus, um ihn zu lösen.
Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass du mit dem Einsetzen zuerst beim ganz außen liegenden Stift anfängst. Sobald er sitzt, kannst du den Trigger herunterdrücken, sodass er im ganz innen liegenden Stift einrastet, dabei solltest du ein "Klick"-Geräusch hören.
Stelle sicher, dass die Trigger-Feder richtig ausgerichtet ist. Teste die Trigger-Funktion, bevor du mit dem Zusammenbau weitermachst.

Schritt 10

Entferne den linken Trigger.
Achte darauf, die Trigger-Feder nicht zu verlieren. Sie wird auf einen Stift auf der Unterseite des Triggers aufgedrückt.

Schritt 11

Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die drei 5,2 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die linke Trigger-Halterung befestigt ist.

Schritt 12

Entferne die linke Trigger-Halterung.
Ersatztrigger müssen kalibriert werden, damit sie funktionieren, wie sie sollen. Folge dieser Anleitung, um deinen Trigger zu kalibrieren.

If I only need to get to this part to check if I have to change the button or the daughterboard, do I HAVE to disconnect the battery ? The less I fiddle with things the more likely it is that I won’t break anything else…

Monsieur_Croco -

Schritt 13

Benutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um den kleinen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Analogstick-Kabels anzuheben.
Schiebe das Kabel mithilfe einer Pinzette aus seinem Anschluss.
Fasse das Kabel an der blauen Zuglasche und nicht am Kabel selbst.

Schritt 14

Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die drei 5,2 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen der Analogstick befestigt ist.
Beim Zusammenbau musst du das Steam Deck möglicherweise anheben, sodass es nicht auf dem neuen Analogstick aufliegt, während du die Schrauben festziehst.

Schritt 15

Entferne den linken Analogstick.

Schritt 16

Benutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um den kleinen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Verbindungskabels zur Tastenplatine hochzuheben.
Schiebe das Kabel mit einer Pinzette aus seinem Anschluss.
Fasse das Kabel an der blauen Zuglasche, und nicht am Kabel selbst.

Interconnect cable is along bottom of left board (on your right hand side). Ought to put a picture of where it is for easier reference.

David Boers -

Schritt 17

Benutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um die kleinen Sicherungsbügel an den restlichen ZIF-Verbindern der Tastenplatine hochzuheben. Schiebe die Kabel mit einer Pinzette aus ihren Anschlüssen:
Trenne das Kabel des Steuerkreuzes (D-Pad) ab.
Trenne das Kabel der Touchpad-Platine ab.
Trenne das Touchpad-Kabel ab.

Schritt 18

Sei vorsichtig, wenn du diesen Stecker anhebst - achte darauf, dass du nur den Stecker selbst aufhebelst, aber nicht sein Gehäuse.
Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um das Kabel der Haptik anzuheben und abzutrennen.

Schritt 19

Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die vier Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die linke Tastenplatine befestigt ist:
Drei 5,2 mm Schrauben
Eine 3,9 mm Schraube

during reassembly you will need to remember to line up board with 2 plastic mounts. pcb has good flex and can push down top to get top screw to line up flush

B P -

also the 2nd cable from the top (the one below shoulder button cable) should be pulled free before tightening your screws lol

B P -

Schritt 20

Entferne die linke Tastenplatine.
Achte auf die Steam-Taste und ihre Membran, denn sobald die linke Tastenplatine ausgebaut ist, halten sie nicht mehr.

This is useful, but how do I get a Left Button Board? Mine is damaged in the left bumper button micro switch and I need a replacement.

KaizerJV -

i thought i needed to replace L1 but i need to replace daughter board too. Valve has said they will supply left daughter boards they are just sold out rn

B P -

Where can I purchase a board

Charlie Trevino -

I need this board to fix my deck

Avery Jones -

Schritt 21

Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die beiden 5,2 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die linke Schultertasten-Einheit befestigt ist.

Schritt 22

Entferne die linke Schultertasten-Einheit.

When reassembling, you may need to force the bumper in a bit until you hear it click.

When I was first reassembling it, I had difficulty screwing the button boards back in. Additionally, my bumper and dpad felt like they were not sitting correctly, when fully reassembled. I believe this was because I didn't fully push in the left bumper assembly even though it looked like it was sitting in place correctly.

Aki Nicholakos - 23/11/22

Schritt 23

Die Schultertaste ist durch Kunststoffclips in ihrer Halterung befestigt.
Hebe die Schultertaste hoch und weg von der Halterung, um den obersten Kunststoffclip zu lösen.
Löse die restlichen Kunststoffclips ab, um die Schultertaste zu entfernen.
Achte darauf, die Feder der Schultertaste nicht zu verlieren.
Hake die Schultertaste beim Zusammenbau am Ende mit der Feder zuerst ein, ziehe dann den obersten Clip hoch und positioniere ihn auf der Halterung.

The replacement "Left Bumper Button" part (IF260-016-1) contains the assembly shown in step 22 - the button itself, spring, and plastic bracket it is attached to. The part does not include the daughter board that attaches to the rear face of the plastic bracket, which has the contacts for the d-pad and associated ribbon cable. This is correctly noted on the replacement parts page, and is not a surprise.

What is worth noting here is that the daughter board is a very thin, flexible substrate (~thickness of an index card), and is attached to the rear face of the plastic bracket with adhesive or glue. If only the button itself (and/or spring) replacement is needed, this is not an issue, as the NEW button/spring assembly may be removed from the NEW bracket (which has no daughter board) and attached to the OLD bracket that has the daughter board glued on.

If the bracket itself is broken/damaged, then there are missing steps, as the daughter board would have to be removed/re-glued to the new rear of the bracket.

Gene Eckser -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Versuche es mit einigen grundsätzlichen Lösungsansätzen, ansonsten findest du in unserem Steam Deck Forum Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.

Tinte & Feder

Carsten Frauenheim

Mitglied seit: 10/03/20

88317 Reputation

6 Kommentare

All good! but you are missing the last step as you will need to replace the Dpad contacts and place them on the new bumper.

Corey Church -

I broke the Step 17 connector's support, with no preassure, just as a lever, any idea on replacing the DAF7ATH16F0 Rev F (last 0 may be a O) board? I will solder the broken connector but I don't think I will be able to, so small

Carquis -

This part is not available in Canada, I've seen your product advertised all over the tech industry, but this part is not available to ship to Canada, that's too bad, I would have purchased the repair kit along with this part, I guess I'm stuck with the rma process. I guess right to repair is still very broken.

FlyingToaster -

Any news on when this part will become available for purchase?

Marco C -

Just so others are aware, I haven't seen the Left button board or the Right button board available for purchase from Ifixit just yet. I just took apart my deck having ordered a left bumper replacement set thinking this would fix my issue, it will not. The issue is the switch itself that is attached to the Left Button Board

Antonio Cruz -

Just an fyi for those who need the tactile button replaced on the control board and not the button. You can order Nintendo switch joycon replacement buttons, and use them. You have to be pretty good at micro soldering to make it work. If you have questions, I might reply. I'm also thinking about offering my soldering as a service if any of you can't get it working. lmk

Kyle -