iBook G3 14" Hard Drive Replacement

Geschrieben von: iRobot
  • Kommentare: 12
iBook G3 14" Hard Drive Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

37

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

You can install hard drives up to 9.5mm thick.

  1. F2vTAmGwLVVErr4j

    • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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    • Pull the keyboard release tabs (highlighted in red) toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

    • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

    • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

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    • If your computer does not have an AirPort card installed, skip to the RAM shield removal step.

    • Push the wire clasp toward the AirPort card and pull it up to free it from the RAM shield.

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    • Grasp the clear plastic tab on the AirPort card and pull toward the right.

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    • Hold the AirPort card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

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    • Remove the two Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

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    • Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

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    • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

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    • Use a pin to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

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    • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

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    • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

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    • Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.

    • The screw in the center is shorter than the other two.

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    • Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

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    • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

    • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

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    • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place.

    • Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

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    • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case.

    • Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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    • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner.

    • There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound out port.

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    • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you.

    • Pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.

    • It may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.

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    • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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    • All of the screws in the following step have small heads - the screws with larger heads hold the bottom shield on.

    • Remove the following 9 screws on the bottom of the computer:

    • Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.

    • Three 5 mm Phillips on the left and bottom edges.

    • Three 14.5 mm Phillips on the top and right edges (you may have to peel back the foil tape to reveal the screw near the security lock slot).

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    • Turn over the computer and open it.

    • Pry up the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.

    • You may need to peel back the serial number sticker to access the magnet.

    Mine didn't have a screw under the magnet.

    TekMac -

    Zitat von TekMac:

    Mine didn't have a screw under the magnet.

    I don't mean that a screw was missing, I'm saying that there is no screw or screw hole installed on my 14" in that location. The other steps were dead-on though.

    TekMac -

    No magnet, screw or screw hole on my upper case either.

    randy3833 -

    Not all G3 Dual USB iBooks have a screw underneath the magnet, so the magnet need not be removed in these cases and will not hinder the removal of the top.

    Brett Fox -

    Some iBooks like the 16 VRAM model have the magnet but there is no screw behind it.

    Alex -

    Check to see if your model has a screw under the magnet first. If you can lift up the area around the magnet there is no screw to deal with.

    James Scanlan -

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    • Remove the following 3 screws on the edges of the keyboard area:

    • Two 6 mm Phillips underneath the keyboard area.

    • One 9 mm Phillips above the keyboard area.

    • On some models, there may also be a screw under the magnet you just removed. If so, remove the screw at this point.

    There is a forth screw underneath the magnet: top center of keyboard area.

    tkn77 -

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    • This is a diagram of the ribbon clamp connectors you will disconnect in the next step.

    • With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).

    • After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

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    • Loosen the trackpad connector by pulling the top piece up slightly, freeing the trackpad ribbon.

    • Slide the orange trackpad ribbon out of the connector.

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    • Use a straightened paperclip to open the optical drive tray, and pull it out about halfway.

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    • Don't lift the upper case off the computer yet as there are still two cables left to disconnect.

    • Lift the upper case from the left side and use your other hand to pull out the right side in order to clear the power receptacle.

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    • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

    • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board.

    • Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket.

    • Make sure you are pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    hello...while i was at step 27 i pulled the connector too much and i broken the socket from the logic board!! I used a glue to put it back but now doesen't turn on the computer...any idea??? :)

    Fabrizio -

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    • Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the red and black speaker cable from the logic board.

    • Make sure you are pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

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    • Remove the following 16 screws:

    • Five 3 mm Phillips (these have smaller heads than the others).

    • Three 5 mm Phillips.

    • Eight 6 mm Phillips.

    • If you have already removed the yellow tape, skip this step.

    • Peel back three strips of yellow tape in the bottom, left corner.

    • Peel back one strip of foil tape near the audio-out port, one near where the trackpad connects to the logic board, and one near where the screen latch used to be.

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    • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

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    • Remove the single Phillips screw to the right of the hard drive connector.

    I have the 800 Mhz model and I had a T7 Torx here, instead of a Phillips head.

    Matt -

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    • At the front edge of the hard drive, lift up on the transparent orange tape to disconnect the ribbon cable from the main board.

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    • Peel back the black tape to free the microphone cable from the hard drive.

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    • Lift the hard drive out of the computer and turn the hard drive over. Use the transparent orange loop to disconnect the hard drive ribbon cable from the hard drive.

    • This is a bit tricky. Try rocking the cable gently from side to side while applying even pressure. If you bend the pins, do your best to straighten them, using the hard drive cable as a guide.

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    • Remove the metal brackets from either side of the hard drive (if they're still there).

    • With the pins facing away from you, and the label facing up, the bracket with a tab in the middle and a metal slot on it goes on the left side of the drive; the other bracket, of course, goes on the right.

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    • Remove two T8 Torx screws from either side of the hard drive (four screws total).

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

iRobot

Mitglied seit: 25/09/09

0 Reputation

3 Kommentare

I don't think you have to remove the bottom case to replace the hard drive, at least on the iBook 800MHz 32MB VRAM.

Captain Phingerspex -

Just replaced the original 20GB HDD with a 40GB in an iBook G3/600 (mid 2002); removal of the case bottom IS necessary on this model. It was more "tedious" than "difficult" (37 steps in, 37 steps out), although I had previous experience on this same machine upgrading RAM to 640MB and installing an AirPort card.

UNSC Jon 117 -

step 21 is not necessary and if you care about the mac having it’s original sticker I would not advise doing what it says… The “magnet” is not removable and if the system is original the sticker will not peal up easily.

Michael Napodano -