iBook G4 12" 800 MHz-1.2 GHz DC-In Board Replacement

Schritt 1

Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

Schritt 3

Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

Be careful that the feet don't shoot up and hit you in the eye when you pry them out!

Each rubber foot has three large tabs occupying 3, 7, and 11 o'clock positions, while a small tab at 9 o'clock position. When you place those rubber feet back to the ring housings, make sure their small tabs aligning with the opening gaps around the rings.

Nienpo -

Taking the feet off - I found a thin flathead screwdriver was much better than a pin to lever them off. Also doesn't mark the rubber. Not hard though

tangawk -

I agree with tangawk: with a flathead screwdriver it was a lot easier. One have just to go deeper enough under the tab to be effective. Just be careful: the tab could jump far.

chmilblick - 18/09/19

Schritt 4

Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

Schritt 5

Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

Align the ring so that it sits flush before trying to put the screws back in. A small tab in the case needs to align with the ring correctly.

jaeckerb -

Yes, the rings have to be put back and flushed with the lower case surface. Otherwise, the rubber feet will not stand evenly.

Nienpo -

Schritt 6

Remove the three Torx screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
The shorter screw is in the center of the computer.

I was able to use a hex wrench since I didn't have a #8 Torx screwdriver.

jackshim -

Zitat von jackshim:

I was able to use a hex wrench since I didn't have a #8 Torx screwdriver.

I, however, was not.

rbrtrx -

These 3 screws actually use 2mm Allen (hex) heads, so try to find one of those first (they come in many metric Allen sets) before resorting to the T8 Torx.

Bryan -

If you save your IKEA wrenches from their steel cable "curtain rods," you will have a 2mm hex wrench or two to spare; the 2mm wrenches are used to tighten the pair of set-screws holding each end of the cable into the wall-mounting.

The three sets of metric allen wrenches I'd accumulated over the years did NOT contain that itty-bitty 2mm wrench, and I didn't want to try forcing a torx-fit.

However, when I finally thought to check, I DID have a 2mm hex "screwdriver tip" in a large "universal set" of odd magnetic screwdriver tips--one with things like hollow-pointed torx, hollow-pointed hex, pin tips (imagine a flat-bladed tip with the middle 1/3 removed)--those so-called "tamper-resistant" screw heads (no triangle points, though, for all the kids' toys made in China).

And why hadn't I thought to look in the screw driver set first thing? Because the hex 2mm was a WRENCH, not a screw with a hexagonal driver tip. Talk about limits imposed by "context" or "framing"--and age.

Theron Ninth -

Schritt 7

Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

If I am not mistaken, these two screws have slightly heavier heads than all the others, in case this is helpful info for when you reassemble.

akatodd -

Schritt 8

Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.
Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

I need patience and I need it NOW!!!!

chrisbulle -

They aren't joking about these being trying times. Steps 15-20 are tough, especially if you don't have a spudger. A small flathead screwdriver works, but will scratch/nick your case.

vorski -

I killed my spudger on this step, trying to twist it in the seam to lift the cover up. I got better progress using it to pry out the gey band, surrounding the laptop. That action will release the catch grooves. Still a test of patience...good luck.

karenskirka -

Schritt 9

There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

Schritt 10

Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

Schritt 11

Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

I used a flathead screwdriver and an old credit card instead of a spudger. If using the screwdriver, be advised it may damage the case.

tildeksnyder -

Wish I'd read the tip about the credit card! Made a few dents during this procedure as I didn't have a spudger. N.B. Plastic modeling tools are not suitable for this job!

enginemonkey -

"Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner." This is nearly impossible for me. Instead, I use a small flathead screw driver to gently open up the tab at the corner.

Nienpo -

Schritt 12

There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

Press inwards between the case and the plastic around the drive. It'll flex the plastic around the drive in and away from the bottom case. The first is about an inch from the center of the slot, then centered on the slot and about one inch past the center.

jaeckerb -

Be careful here; I scratched up my case here pretty good with the flat head screwdriver I'd used.

ejwest24 -

Schritt 13

Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and away from you until the back tabs pop free.
it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.