iBook G4 12" 800 MHz-1.2 GHz Upper Case Replacement

Geschrieben von: iRobot
  • Kommentare: 55
iBook G4 12" 800 MHz-1.2 GHz Upper Case Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

33

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Changing the top case will also allow you to replace the trackpad if you need a new one.

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    • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

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    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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    • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

    • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

    • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

    The "keyboard locking screw" is a transparent plastic screw located between F5 and F6 function keys.

    Nienpo -

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    • If the computer has an AirPort card installed, follow the next three steps to remove it.

    • Push the wire clasp away from the AirPort card and toward the display, then rotate up to free it from the RAM shield.

    To put back the AirPort card with the clasp (wire brace), make sure the card is pushed against by the wire, not clamped over. The latter situation indicates that the card is not seated deeply enough.

    Nienpo -

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    • Grasp the clear plastic tab on the AirPort card and pull toward the display.

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    • Hold the AirPort card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

    I had a hard time getting the Airport card seated properly when reconstructing. If the wire brace doesn't snap back in easily, then try reseating the card. Don't force it.

    vorski -

    THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS TUTORIAL!

    Honestly, this is a lot easier than it looks. The key is take your time and don't force anything. Use tweezers to disconnect cables from logic board. Also, use a mini-head screwdriver like for glasses to pry the case open and go slowly.

    headphonz -

    Very well explained. Thank you. I had some donated memory cards and had to try twice before success. I found that I did not have to remove the antenna from the airport express and I did not have to remove the keyboard plug from the processor. Enough room to remove and replace memory card with it in.

    Jay Speaks -

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    • Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

    very gently magnetizing my small philips screwdriver was a HUGE help when putting all the tiny screws back into place... all said and done, there will be a lot of teeny screws to be taken out and put back. To magnetize the screwdriver, I just rubbed it several times in one direction (similar to sharpening a knife) across a strong refrigerator magnet... you only want it just strong enough to hold a screw, but not so magnetized that it corrupts your new hard drive!

    Sean Franzen -

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    • Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

    When replacing the RAM shield, make sure to pull the antenna cable through the tiny slot in the upper right, or else you'll have to unscrew it all over again.

    demifugue -

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    • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

    • Make sure that you reconnect the keyboard cable before replacing the RAM shield.

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    • Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

    Be careful that the feet don't shoot up and hit you in the eye when you pry them out!

    UniAce -

    Each rubber foot has three large tabs occupying 3, 7, and 11 o'clock positions, while a small tab at 9 o'clock position. When you place those rubber feet back to the ring housings, make sure their small tabs aligning with the opening gaps around the rings.

    Nienpo -

    Taking the feet off - I found a thin flathead screwdriver was much better than a pin to lever them off. Also doesn't mark the rubber. Not hard though

    tangawk -

    I agree with tangawk: with a flathead screwdriver it was a lot easier. One have just to go deeper enough under the tab to be effective. Just be careful: the tab could jump far.

    chmilblick -

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    • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

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    • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

    Align the ring so that it sits flush before trying to put the screws back in. A small tab in the case needs to align with the ring correctly.

    jaeckerb -

    Yes, the rings have to be put back and flushed with the lower case surface. Otherwise, the rubber feet will not stand evenly.

    Nienpo -

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    • Remove the three Torx screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.

    • The shorter screw is in the center of the computer.

    I was able to use a hex wrench since I didn't have a #8 Torx screwdriver.

    jackshim -

    Zitat von jackshim:

    I was able to use a hex wrench since I didn't have a #8 Torx screwdriver.

    I, however, was not.

    rbrtrx -

    These 3 screws actually use 2mm Allen (hex) heads, so try to find one of those first (they come in many metric Allen sets) before resorting to the T8 Torx.

    Bryan -

    If you save your IKEA wrenches from their steel cable "curtain rods," you will have a 2mm hex wrench or two to spare; the 2mm wrenches are used to tighten the pair of set-screws holding each end of the cable into the wall-mounting.

    The three sets of metric allen wrenches I'd accumulated over the years did NOT contain that itty-bitty 2mm wrench, and I didn't want to try forcing a torx-fit.

    However, when I finally thought to check, I DID have a 2mm hex "screwdriver tip" in a large "universal set" of odd magnetic screwdriver tips--one with things like hollow-pointed torx, hollow-pointed hex, pin tips (imagine a flat-bladed tip with the middle 1/3 removed)--those so-called "tamper-resistant" screw heads (no triangle points, though, for all the kids' toys made in China).

    And why hadn't I thought to look in the screw driver set first thing? Because the hex 2mm was a WRENCH, not a screw with a hexagonal driver tip. Talk about limits imposed by "context" or "framing"--and age.

    Theron Ninth -

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    • Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

    If I am not mistaken, these two screws have slightly heavier heads than all the others, in case this is helpful info for when you reassemble.

    akatodd -

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    • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

    • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

    I need patience and I need it NOW!!!!

    chrisbulle -

    They aren't joking about these being trying times. Steps 15-20 are tough, especially if you don't have a spudger. A small flathead screwdriver works, but will scratch/nick your case.

    vorski -

    I killed my spudger on this step, trying to twist it in the seam to lift the cover up. I got better progress using it to pry out the gey band, surrounding the laptop. That action will release the catch grooves. Still a test of patience...good luck.

    karenskirka -

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    • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

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    • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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    • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

    I used a flathead screwdriver and an old credit card instead of a spudger. If using the screwdriver, be advised it may damage the case.

    tildeksnyder -

    Wish I'd read the tip about the credit card! Made a few dents during this procedure as I didn't have a spudger. N.B. Plastic modeling tools are not suitable for this job!

    enginemonkey -

    "Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner." This is nearly impossible for me. Instead, I use a small flathead screw driver to gently open up the tab at the corner.

    Nienpo -

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    • There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

    Press inwards between the case and the plastic around the drive. It'll flex the plastic around the drive in and away from the bottom case. The first is about an inch from the center of the slot, then centered on the slot and about one inch past the center.

    jaeckerb -

    Be careful here; I scratched up my case here pretty good with the flat head screwdriver I'd used.

    ejwest24 -

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    • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and away from you until the back tabs pop free.

    • it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.

    Step 20.5: Have coffee and give yourself a pat on the back...

    dennis peeters -

    Take care that the monitor cable is tucked in when putting the bottom case back on.

    jaeckerb -

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    • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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    • Remove the 4 Phillips screws from the bottom shield.

    • The two longer screws are along the computer's edge, near the ports.

    I leave the bottom shield. It was not necessary for me to get it of to dismount the upper top.

    Everling -

    on mine, there are six small extra screws to remove.

    dianadipilla -

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    • Lift the bottom shield off.

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    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the DC-In board.

    I left the DC board alone screws, cable and all for my hard drive swap.

    jyee -

    No reason for this step or the next few when replacing the hard drive. Leave the DC board and its cable alone!

    jaeckerb -

    When re-assembling, make sure the right screw goes in the right-most hole.

    beeay -

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    • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

    I found that I could leave the cable attached if I was just careful with where I placed it when I turned the computer over.

    horntaxnow -

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    • Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary, and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

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    • Remove the two Phillips screws from the battery compartment.

    Very helpful!

    Gosimiera -

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    • We recommend placing the computer on a slab of grey anti-static packing foam from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.

    • Turn over the computer and open it.

    • Pry up the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.

    Probably a good idea to follow the advice about protecting the logic board with foam. I used bubble wrap on this step, but it probably didn't provide enough padding. When I reassembled everything and booted up (successfully!) the screen had a strong bluish tint. Can't seem to get rid of it now. Oops.

    Otherwise, many thanks to ifixit and all y'alls for the helpful comments.

    Tristan Naramore -

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    • Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.

    • Three 2 mm Phillips along the right edge.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.

    • One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner.

    • Two 6 mm Phillips with large heads, one in the upper left corner and one in the middle

    My journey of replacing the hard drive stops at step 29. The screw marked with the yellow circle ("One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner") is very tight. The torque I applied wore out the screw head and it becomes the death sentence announcement of the iBook. Sad.

    Nienpo -

    I am happy to announce that my iBook gets its 2nd life with the newly implanted hard drive. The screw marked with the yellow circle was worn out. I ordered a set of "Screw Extracting Pliers" (small) from iFixit in the hope of remedying the problem. Initially, the pliers do not have enough space to work on it because the screw sits in a narrow plastic basin. I file some of the surrounding plastic away to make room. Finally, the pliers "bites" the screw out. Yes!

    The screw is put back when the iBook is assembled.

    Nienpo -

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    • Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps.

    • Lift the upper case from the right side and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different from the one pictured.

    When replacing the upper case, after you've installed your new hard drive, make sure you remember to RECONNECT the trackpad connector. I forgot to connect it when I put the computer back together, and had to take it apart a 2nd time in order to fix my mistake. Other than that I had no problems with this upgrade thanks to the detailed instructions offered here . Thanks iFixit.com!

    You can see photos of my upgrade process here if you are interested: http://www.flickr.com/photos/judahs/sets...

    judah -

    Ty iFitit..I replaced the screen on my iBook g4...you guys rock..went without a hitch...hat sitting there for month with a hanging screen...feels good to be mobile again.... THANK YOU....

    jeremiah -

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    • Carefully lift the upper case about half of an inch and move it so that you can access the power and speaker cables.

    • If the upper case is sticking, it may be necessary to free the tabs holding the upper case to the metal framework along the outer edge of the battery compartment.

    Neither of these pesky & fragile connectors need to be removed…leave then connected! All you need to do, is to unscrew both speakers, carefully peel their wires off the housing, and—finally—make one cut with scissors or a sharp craft-knife through the upper left aluminum shield, closest to the plug…the board will slip around the second plug without any modification…Voila! No chance of harming the plugs, and the cut is very short & may be covered with tape. I have done this on two( 2 ) of these G4’s, a 12” and a 14”, and it works like a Charm…just be careful with the speaker wires, and you’ll never have to worry about ruining a G4 again…True Story!

    Michael Maddan -

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    • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

    • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&

    chickenbrothel -

    Zitat von chickenbrothel:

    just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&

    It helps to use two small tools here: A dental pick (or similar) to hold down the socket (keeps it from separating from the logic board) and a small flathead screwdriver. With your off hand, use the pick to make sure the socket stays put; with your good hand, use the screwdriver. DON'T pry; instead, TWIST the head of the screwdriver to gently coax the connector out of the socket.

    textrix -

    Tweezers were also helpful here.

    jackshim -

    I left the power button cable as it is VERY easy to break. I instead left it plugged in, and flipped the upper case and metal shield up against the screen. Worked well.

    hwn -

    I've just done the same thing DRAT ! Is there any way to solder the tiny socket back on to the board ?

    steweric -

    First I released the plastic top. Then I removed the touch pad connector. With that, I was able to shift the top case down a inch so the power connector was exposed. I pressed a small screw driver along the middle on the long side of the power connector and twisted back and forth so it would wedge the connector from the socket. I left the speaker(long wires) wires connected and just flipped the case off to the left.

    jyee -

    You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.

    QEII Student IT -

    Wished I had read the comment BEFORE trying to pull that stupid connector out. Here is my take away: If you have an iBook 1.33 - DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE CONNECTOR! It's impossible not to break the socket off the logic board. The connector is so firmly in the socket that you can't pull it out.

    If you broke it, there is the possibility to solder it, but it's very tricky. But maybe the only chance of saving your machine. Do some google search, there are people who've done it.

    uliverse -

    Zitat von jackshim:

    Tweezers were also helpful here.

    I used forceps. Quick and easy.

    Desert Fox -

    I also pulled the power connector from the board and had to send the board to a repair shop to have the connector soldered back on. Working on tiny surface mount components is not for the faint of heart. Sierra Circuit Repair of Chico CA did a good job but it cost me $100.

    gdavids57 -

    Zitat von QEII Student IT:

    You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.

    Thank you very much!! Great tip, worked great,it cuts down the risk of logic board repair. I agree with the suggestion of tweezers, long thin tips help to maneuver in tight areas and are great for removing the tape holding the wires to the plastic upper case.

    Oz Leap -

    I cloned the original drive onto a larger one, and started following these instructions.

    Alas, I just "bricked" my machine as well at this step... the jack broke off the board.

    Well, it served admirably for the last few years....

    Painful but not critical lesson...

    dannyb -

    Don't forget put off the mouse pad cable

    Francisco -

    I concur, you dont have to remove the power button connector.

    Great guide...just installed a new ssd.

    Make sure you follow the OS X Installation Guide on how to partition etc...

    Banu -

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    • Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    • Tip: the multi-coloured cable may be easier and less daunting to disconnect after removing the top heat shield. Prop the top case upright while removing the shield - the connector is then much more accessible.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

iRobot

Mitglied seit: 25/09/09

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