iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 und 2210 Netzteil tauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 100
iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 und 2210 Netzteil tauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

15

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten - 1 Stunde

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie das Netzteil im iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 und 2210 ausgetauscht werden kann.

  1. 3BdxtI2HvAvYfdgY

    • Löse die Kreuzschlitzschraube in der Mitte des Schutzblechs.

    • Diese Schraube lässt sich nicht komplett vom Blech entfernen.

    • Entferne das Schutzblech vom iMac.

    isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

    grze -

    It is for the 2133, the 2210 uses 6400

    maccentric -

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    • Die Glasscheibe ist auf der Frontblende mit insgesamt 14 Magneten befestigt.

    • Setze zwei Saugheber auf gegenüberliegende Ecken der Glasscheibe.

    • Zum Anbringen der von uns verkauften Saugheber positioniere zunächst den beweglichen Teil des Griffs parallel zur Glasfläche. Drücke den Griff dann leicht gegen das Glas und hebe den beweglichen Teil des Saughebers, bis er parallel zu dem anderen Griffteil ist.

    • Wenn die Saugheber nicht haften, reinige sowohl die Glasscheibe als auch die Heber mit einer milden Seifenlauge.

    At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

    john31 -

    My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

    Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

    Mathew Hendry -

    Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

    damianwise -

    3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

    Adam McCombs -

    Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

    Richard -

    I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

    Lisa Mac -

    For a quick 'n' dirty alternative "tool" for this step, take a look at IKEA's Stugvik suction hooks: they provide an excellent adjustable grip. Just used it to take apart an EMC2133. Cheers!

    hadderakk -

    Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)

    Griff in Fairbanks -

    I can confirm it is fairly easy to pull it up, the heavy duty suction cups were adequate of course, but pretty sure you can do it without heavy duty stuff? Panel is rather light too.

    Julien -

  3. brspUaXYZhvWBhIu

    • Ziehe die Glasscheibe gerade nach oben vom iMac ab.

    • Die Glasscheibe verfügt auf ihrem Umfang über mehrere Positionierstifte. Um ein Abbrechen der Stifte zu vermeiden achte bei der Demontage darauf, die Glasscheibe wirklich senkrecht nach oben zu ziehen.

    • Reinige beim Wiedereinbau das LCD und die Innenseite der Glasscheibe sehr sorgfältig, da sonst ggf. Staub und Fingerabdrücke verbleiben, die störend sichtbar werden, wenn das LCD eingeschaltet wird. Es empfiehlt sich, die Glasscheibe beim Ausbau mit der Innenseite auf einer frischen Aluminiumfolie zu platzieren, um Verschmutzungen zu vermeiden.

    In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

    robgendreau -

    While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

    For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

    Mathew Hendry -

    Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

    axel -

    Although I do not advise it, you can substitute the suction cups with two strips of duct tape along the sides of the glass, with the tape attached to it's self in the middle of the strip

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    Jason Zak -

  4. CNBFg1PCLDsLDteG

    • Entferne die folgenden 12 Schrauben, welche die Frontblende am dahinter liegenden Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Acht 13 mm T8 Torx.

    • Vier 25 mm T8 Torx.

    On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

    john31 -

    Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

    TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

    This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.

    HIH

    Richdave -

    On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

    bhoffs -

    This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Frontblende austauschen

    thibault -

    I'll echo Thibault's comment. This guide does not actually tell you when and/or how to remove the bezel! Click on the other guide he linked to see the photo and instructions.

    steven -

    Make sure you're ram slot at the bottom is open to remove front frame bezel

    edgain99 -

    I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.

    Richard Cacciato -

    I found it helpful to use a few lids from spaghetti sauce jars to hold the different screws. I used a sharpie to mark the inside of the lid w/ location taken from or the step number from directions. Then I placed a small magnet under the lid to hold the screws inside the lid in case I accidentally jostle something on the table. Worked great! You can also use a magnetic knife bar to line up the lids in sequential for the project.

    tom -

    I cut a hardwood block and drew the outline of the the iMac shape with the base as key. I then drew another two lines at 1/2” and 1” all around from the outline. This done I drilled holes for each screw (12 Outer securing the front bezel to the rear case , and 8 Inner screws securing the display panel to the rear case ). That way I don’t lose any or get them mixed up.

    jmadams -

    I think the title of this chapter could be (in french) désinstallation but not Installation with is the contrary. Idem for the other chapters.

    Bertrand Guigaz -

  5. BqQQYMTGV1Fgadp1

    • Lege deine Hände auf die oberen Ecken der Blende (an der Seite) und hebe die Blende 2-3 cm oben vom Gehäuse ab. Danach kannst du die Blende auch unten aushängen (Die Speichermodule haben verhindert, dass du die Blende zuerst unten abnehmen kannst). Beim Zusammenbau musst du unten anfangen.

    • Im oberen Rand der Blende befindet sich ein an das Logic Board angeschlossenes Mikrofon. Hebe die Blende behutsam an, damit das Mikrofonkabel und der Stecker nicht versehentlich beschädigt werden.

    • Jetzt kannst du entweder das Mikrofonkabel abtrennen und die Blende entfernen, oder du kannst das Mikrofonkabel angeschlossen lassen und die Blende auf dem Arbeitstisch oder das Gehäuse des iMac legen.

    • Zum Entfernen der Blende musst du den Mikrofonstecker ablösen, wenn nötig das Klebeband abziehen.

    • Wenn das Mikrofonkabel angeschlossen bleiben soll, dann lasse es mit dem Logic Board verbunden und lege die Blende auf das Gehäuse drauf, wobei das Mikrofonkabel wie ein Gelenk geformt wird.

    • Wenn du das Mikrofon am Gehäuse angeschlossen lässt, dann achte darauf nicht gegen die lose Blende zu stoßen, sonst könnte das das Mikrofon oder die Hauptplatine versehentlich beschädigt werden.

    I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

    robgendreau -

    ^^^ This! This tutorial should be amended for this step. Much, much easier and less damage-prone.

    (There really oughta be a step addressing the removal of the bezel as well.)

    cklarson -

    Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

    Kyle Freeman -

    CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

    dagnew -

    Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

    Melvin Hines -

    As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!

    recmsoj -

    When reassembling the bezel, you should actually gently pull the microphone connector (and cables) through the ~1 inch long slot in the bezel next to the iSight camera, when lowering the top part of the bezel onto the chassis . Then further lower the bezel onto the chassis of the iMac, while making sure there’s no room / play between the bottom of the bezel and the bottom of the body (where the memory slots reside). . This way you’ll avoid damaging the microphone cable. Finally gently push the microphone wires and connector through that sale long slot in the bezel to conceal them inside the bezel.

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    tuansakong99 -

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    Jason Zak -

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    • Beim Zusammenbau der Frontblende:

    • Schiebe das Kabel und den Stecker des Mikrofons vorsichtig in die Öffnung neben dem Kameraboard.

    • Ziehe den Stecker vorsichtig durch die Öffnung im Rahmen rechts neben der iSight Kamera. Schiebe den Stecker nach der Montage des Rahmens wieder durch die Öffnung zurück.

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    • Ziehen Sie den Stecker des LCD-Temperatursensors gerade nach oben aus dem Sockel auf der Hauptplatine.

    • Ziehe dabei falls erforderlich das Kabel des Sensors hinter der Hauptplatine hervor.

    • Überprüfe beim Ausbau des LCD die Kabelführung des Sensors. Achte darauf, dass das Kabel beim Wiedereinbau des Bildschirms nicht eine der Schrauben für die Frontblende blockiert.

    This was the most confusing step, because the video shows MJ just tilting the monitor open, and I had a ribbon cable hooked up to it. Finally figured out that the ribbon cable was connected to the LCD temp sensor cable, and it was neatly tucked under the adjacent fan. Had to pull it pretty hard to get it out from under the fan, and then could tilt the LCD. Instructions are not completely clear about this, only that you may have to reroute the cable around the motherboard.

    d3nn151950 -

    I agree, there is no sign of how to remove the bezel (it took me several minutes to understand it was even the bezel that came off here) in these steps (in all the guides for this model, in fact). On step 4 says remove the LCD screws, and suddenly step 6 shows innards and fans etc - !! - What about showing the bezel being removed here - super confusing and not up to usual ifixit high standards.

    hutchwilco -

    If you rush through the reassembly, it's very easy to miss reconnecting the LCD Temp Display cable. I just did it and one of the fans came on full-speed and stayed there through a new macOS install. Did a Google search and found mention of this symptom. At first I was thinking I switched one or more of the inverter cables but this guide shows that this is not a problem. Once I reviewed this step, the problem was obvious as was the solution. Thanks again, iFixit, for saving my nappy behind.

    barryjaylevine -

    I can speak from experience, this cable’s a pain. It came out of where I tucked it and snuck behind one of the bottom screws, which pierced it during reassembly, afterward it would not boot properly. It’ll boot without the cable plugged in, but the fan runs near max. I’m glad it can at least be used while I wait for the replacement cable to ship. What a weird (lazy) design choice from Apple.

    Ian Sprenkle -

    In case the iMac hasn’t been opened for years (typical situation), then you may want to first carefully and prudently remove the piled up dust with a vacuum cleaner and a soft brush. Definitely not with a can of compressed air, as then you’ll spill the debris everywhere (and on the display). Otherwise you won’t be able to get hold of the right cable, connector or screw. In addition, it will help increase the air flow hence reduce heat (and allow the fans to operate at a lower speed).

    Olivier Biot -

    hi could some one help me with this cable replacing as it has been damaged i mean i would like to know if i could repair the wire or simply replace it and also what type of wire i would need and how could i find one please i m new thanks

    kazi

    suhrab kazi -

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    • Entferne die zwei 5,3 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, welche das Bildschirmkabel an der Hauptplatine befestigen.

    My Torx 6 driver purchased from ifixit didn't fit the screws well and potentially would strip them. Had to purchase a better driver to fit better in order to loosen these screws.

    kakisback -

    reinstalling these screws requires extra care to be sure you don't drop it and loose it under any of the other components.

    kakisback -

    Make sure not to drop the screws.

    ulan -

    Removing these screws was the most difficult part of the whole job. They were tight and felt as if the heads were about to chew up. I had to press really hard and jerk the screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen them. Despite others' warnings, I managed to drop a screw when reinserting.

    kevinp -

    The only tool I needed to buy was the T6 Star Bit - the first auto store I went to had it. These screws are tiny so you have to be careful not to drop them!

    James Miles -

    When reinstalling these tiny screws, consider placing the iMac upright. That way when you (inevitably) drop these tiny screws, you don't lose them in the guts of the computer where they are likely to fall into a fan.

    stown1211 -

    Yes, this step is very difficult. I finally used a magnet to magnetize the torx driver, and that helped immensely...however, that was AFTER I lost the right one inside the computer. You really only need one screw to reattach the monitor connector, however.

    d3nn151950 -

    Argh! I dropped my right screw into the bowels of the iMac. I can't find it anywhere and am loath to leave it rattling around as well as to tear down the machine any further.

    steven macfarlane -

    Well, I followed the instructions for right-speaker removal and optical drive fan removal and still couldn't find the right screw. I couldn't hear it rattle either so figured it was wedged somewhere. Using an inspection mirror and flashlight, I finally found it. It had fallen down and wedged between the PCB and the plastic housing (below the ports). I was able to slide it toward the right until it came to the void left by the right speaker where it fell out into my hand.

    steven macfarlane -

    It's true, these were super tight. I only had a T5 which worked on the first screw, but the second wouldn't budge. Ended up filing the tip off the T5 bit - presto! - instant T6.

    marcintosh -

    I Think the real screw size is 3.5 mm T6 Torx, not 5.3 mm

    raul -

    Dropped those little bastards like 2-3 times into the deeps of my iMac. The right one is really tricky. If you drop it: better get yourself very thin tweezers and gently shake your mac. :(

    Popelnase -

    Note that just below where you are working is the PRAM battery. If you have never replaced this, now is a good time so you won't have to open the machine up again in the near future. The battery is a CR2032.

    mattgauntt -

    Taking all the warnings into account about losing these tiny screws, during removal and replacement I held onto the screws tightly with a very fine needle nose tweezer. Fortunately I managed not to lose them either out or in. I highly recommend using a small gripper during this step.

    recmsoj -

    While you have the case open this would be a good time to replace the PRAM battery and carefully clean the fan and interior of the case with Q-tips / compressed air.

    John Fisk -

    These screws are Torx 7 - at least that was what

    I used on them and got a prefect tight fit ... .

    Patrik Albin -

    torx 6 didn't do it, needed torx 7

    nielsdolieslager -

    Torx7 did NOT work for me. Torx6 did.

    pdienstm -

    If you do manage to lose one of these screws, will the cable still be held in properly if you reinstall it with only one?

    Peter Wood -

    Advice / 2 cents : Unscrew/screw with the iMac vertical/propped up and a magnetized screwdriver. Should be no issue. If it falls, it will fall on your desk, not behind stuff on the back of the iMac. You could even put iFixit magnetized mat underneath for added safety :)

    Julien -

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    • Nutze die schwarze Ziehlasche, um das Bildschirmkabel von der Hauptplatine abzuziehen.

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    • Entferne die acht 12 mm Torx T8 Schrauben, welche den Bildschirm am hinteren Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Hebe den Bildschirm von seiner linken Kante her an und drehe ihn in Richtung der rechten Seite des iMac.

    I was able to disconnect the two connectors to the front easily. With those off, I just rotated the LCD out of the way to expose the hard drive. Again, make sure it's stabilized if you do this so that when you yank on something else you don't send it flying.

    robgendreau -

    I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's basically the same, but it does not have disconnectable invertercables. Instead, there's just one cable that's can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.

    Marijn -

    On the 2134 model, I found that the LCD must be lifted from the RIGHT (not the left as per the 2133 guide) - the connector wires are covered in nylon housing and it's way easier just having someone hold the LCD vertical whilst you replace the HDD, unless you have small fingers and feel like disconnecting completely ...

    simon -

    During reassembly, make sure that the data and temperature cables will reach their sockets before inserting the eight screws.

    kevinp -

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    • Entferne bei angehobenem Bildschirm die vier Stromkabel.

    • Lege beim Zusammenbau die vier Stromkabelanschlüsse in Hohlräume zwischen den Komponenten an der Rückseite, so dass der Bildschirm bündig aufliegt.

    • Beim Zusammenbau ist die Reihenfolge der Stromkabel innerhalb eines Anschlusses austauschbar.

    • Sollte beim Austausch der Festplatte eine weitere Person helfen, so ist es (nach Lösung des Temperatursensors und des Bildschirmkabels im vorherigen Schritt) möglich, den Austausch bei angehobenem Display vorzunehmen.

    Make sure to not squeeze the inverter-cables between the superdrive and the display when putting the display back on !

    epzzky -

    This was the only step different for my 2134 - it is just one cable that connects to the monitor - disconnect the monitor end rather than the motherboard side.

    Jim Laredo -

    There is no need to discnnect the inverter cables if display is positioned against a wall or something of the sort. Make sure it doesn't tumble over !!!

    info5825 -

    For 24" iMacs, a single power cable is attached on the left side of the screen. To remove the cable, lift the screen from the right side and rotate it to the left. Remove the black plastic protector on the back of the screen and disconnect the cable.

    Matt Stichnoth -

    Make sure you squeeze the two ends of the inverter cable together firmly - if not you will get yellow areas on your screen. One of my cables had not quite been clicked together, and I had to unscrew everything all over again.

    Philip -

    So does it matter which ones are connected to which?

    That is, at each end there are two connectors (one pink/black the other light blue/dark blue on the "male" side). The "female side appear identical. Does it matter if the pink/black "male" one is connected to the wrong "female" one?

    Mark Gibson -

    Mark, did you ever get an answer about the connectors?

    Mike -

    Agreed this is an unspecified issue and i'm surprised it's not covered? Did everyone else just guess?

    kainatticus -

    Yes, mark each female end in a way that distinguishes itself from the other. I put “P” on the harnesses with the pink wires and “B” on the harnesses with the blue wires.

    steven -

    So let’s say hypothetically I didn’t label them as I failed to notice that they were identical before disconnection. What should I do to resolve this issue?

    Christian Moore -

    Managed to avoid this step just lifting the lcd panel and holding it with my... head ;)

    Antonio Bernardini -

    Yes, I agree. If you just prop the panel up on the left (carefully!) with your head, or as I used a box, or get a friend to hold it up, this step can be bypassed. It is a tight squeeze inside to work with getting the HD in and out but its totally do-able. If using an SSD, which of course you should, you can just tape it down inside, as they weigh almost nothing.

    Jed Weaver -

    I'm trying to find some information on replacing the power supply temperature sensor cable. Mine broke during removal of a bad power supply.

    Mike Overholt -

    Re: Scorps comment above - I got the “beeping” too. Does anyone know how to resolve it, i.e. identify which goes with which? Other than trying every combination?

    mchlgrblsk -

    My screen is just Grey? anyone else have this happen?

    Michael McGuire -

    After replacing iMac’s HDD with a new one I’ve got white screen with vertical black and bluish bands on the left side and two horizontal lines dividing the display into three equal parts (see the image). Any idea what that might be?

    Andrey -

    I tagged the inverter cables with different color sharpies so as to get them connected back the way they were.

    Macrepair SF -

    Step 9…. before I took those tiny screws out for the data display cable on the logic board, I put the tip of the torx tool on a magnet (magnets on the front cover worked fine) for a few minutes. this magnetizes the screws so you are less likely to drop them when you go to put them back in.

    dkkd -

    I replaced the internal hard drive. worked fine. putting everything back together, the CD drive wont insert or eject discs when I tighten the screws on the right side that holds the display in place, or when I put the cover back on. CDs work fine if I leave the screws loose and/or leave the cover off. cant figure out why, i never touched the CD drive at all…

    anyone else have this issue after opening the unit up, and how did u fix it?

    dkkd -

    This happened to me and I found that a cable that had been wrapped around the side of the DVD drive had slid over top of it while I had it open. When I closed it all up, the pressure of the cable against the surface of the DVD drive was enough to impact it. I reopened the machine and pushed the cable back around the side of the DVD drive and it worked fine.

    John Moltz -

    The ‘locking tab’ faces the dot. I placed a label on main body side of the lcd connector with a P =Pink and B =Blue. This way I know to place the connector with the pink on the marked P and blue on the marked B.

    egecko -

    I went with the option of not detaching the screen. I have horror stories around inverters, mostly on notebooks, but still, don’t approach/touch if you don’t have to.

    Ask your wife/somebody to hold the screen while you go through the steps below, without detaching the cables in step 11. It is a couple minute to step 18 and having the drive out.

    Julien -

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    • Bei den nächsten Schritten musst du mit den Händen in der Nähe der Netzteilplatine arbeiten. Berühre sie nicht, die vielen großen Kondensatoren auf der Platine können kräftige Stromschläge austeilen.

    • Entferne vier Torx T10-Schrauben, mit denen das Netzteil am Rückgehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 7 mm Torx T10-Schrauben mit Feingewinde

    • Zwei 7 mm Torx T10-Schrauben mit Grobgewinde

    Since the old power supply will be discarded, why not stick some ductape to the board? The tape should provide enough insulation to protect you from accidental contact with the board. It becomes safer to remove the screws with the extra protection.

    Of course, when removing the connectors and then the board, one must be careful to avoid contact with any of the components on the other side of the board.

    Rick Auricchio -

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    • Kippe die Oberkante des Netzteils leicht vom Rückgehäuse weg.

    • Der einadrige Stecker in der Nähe der oberen linken Ecke des Netzteils ist klein und wird sehr fest in der Buchse gehalten, was das Entfernen naturgemäß schwierig macht. Achte darauf, beim Entfernen nur am Stecker zu ziehen. Wenn du am Kabel ziehst, geht es sicher kaputt.

    • Der auf dem ersten Foto gezeigte Einzeldraht gehört zum Netzteil-Temperatursensor. Wenn nach der Installation Probleme mit der Netzteiltemperatur auftreten, überprüfe zuerst diese Verbindung

    • Greife den Stecker mit dem Daumen- und Zeigefingernagel, ziehe ihn zur Oberseite des iMac hin und trenne ihn von der Stromversorgung ab.

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    • Drehe das Netzteil zum optischen Laufwerk hin.

    • Drücke den Verriegelungsmechanismus am Stecker des Gleichstromkabels und ziehe ihn gleichzeitig zum Abtrennen aus dem Anschluss heraus.

    • Er lässt sich leichter herausziehen, wenn du dabei ein bisschen hin und her wackelst.

  15. ebocYFTUvvwEsZhr

    • Drücke den Verriegelungsmechanismus am Stecker des Wechselstromkabels und ziehe ihn gleichzeitig zum Abtrennen aus dem Anschluss heraus.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

685540 Reputation

11 Kommentare

Thank you thank you thank you--I fixed replaced the power supply and my computer works again!

The instructions were just on the dot--It only took me around 30 min. from start to finish.

Robert Prieto -

Thank you so much! Problem sorted, iMac saved!!

Mumoth -

Well it worked! But I have to say pulling out the temperature sensor wire requires harder nails than I have. My son ripped the wire out. But thankfully I got the answer I needed from the forum. My iMac is working great! Although there a couple missin & a couple unaccounted screws, the Mac doesn't care.

I have ordered a MacBook Pro to add mobility. When the times comes I will learn the repairs from this website. Thank you so much for all the help & wok you do for us!

ladycerridwyn -

I was able to replace the power supply, but it appears there is something else wrong with my iMac. It started normally, but slower. After I entered my password, it loaded very slowly. When the progress bar completed, it went to a pure white screen. I left it for an hour or so and decided to shut it down with the power button. This time nothing happened when the progress bar finished. I left it and went to bed. The next morning, I woke it up and it was asking for my password again. Screensaver. My computer had the pages I was viewing when the power supply gave out. Everything was slow to respond, but I eventually got the pages closed. The computer won’t respond to my commands for the most part. I’m not able to open any of the programs. Safari, mail, etc… I left a question in the forum.

Brian OToole -

During step 12 i discovered that the Power supply temperature sensor was broken, and turns out was the reason to why the PSU failed in the first place. Any tips on fixing this ?

john -

Congrats, Walter, very clear your instructions.

FanMac -

The T6 5.3 mm times two holding the data display plug went missing when Apple replaced the first time the power supply board (there had been issues at the time). These are difficult to find but I replaced them with M2 4 mm screws. Torx are better because of the smaller head size but Philips head worked for me.

Bruno Schremmer -

Also I believe that the 250 W power supply board works for the A1225/ EMC 2134 and these boards are easier to find, but I may be wrong.

Bruno Schremmer -

Lastly, take the opportunity to change the Lithium 2032 battery, it’s next to the right speaker and clean the fan with Q-tips.

Bruno Schremmer -

I’ve turned on the iMAc before reinstalling the bezel and all four small green diodes light up!. Thank you, this went much more smoothly then I ever thought possible!

Bruno Schremmer -

My iMac is EMC 2133 with CPU 2.0GHz. I need to upgrade it to CPU 2.66HHz and replace this power supply unit. On the top of this page, it shows two types of power supply unit for replacement. Which one should I choose?

Frank Li -