iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2308 zweites Laufwerk installieren

Geschrieben von: Brittany McCrigler
  • Kommentare: 96
iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2308 zweites Laufwerk installieren

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

24

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Du hast viele Vorteile davon, wenn du ein zweites Laufwerk in deinen iMac einbaust, z.B. höhere Geschwindigkeit, mehr Speicherplatz und weniger Aufregung bei der Installation neuer Software. Hier wird gezeigt, wie du anstelle des optischen Laufwerks ein zweites Laufwerk einbauen kannst.

  1. S6gQ2HIHlQuHu5Sy
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    • Ziehe den Stecker, bevor du anfängst. Lege den iMac auf eine weiche Oberfläche, so wie gezeigt.

    • Befestige einen Saugnapf in jeder der oberen Ecken der Scheibe.

    • Um die Saugnäpfe, die wir verkaufen, anzubringen, musst du erst den Saugnapf mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Scheibe aufsetzen. Halte den Saugnapf gegen die Scheibe und klappe den Griff hoch, bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist.

    • Wenn der Saugnapf sich nicht festsaugt, dann versuche die Scheibe und den Saugnapf mit einem milden Reinigungsmittel zu säubern.

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton -

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov -

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival -

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso -

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale -

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna -

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx -

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks -

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai -

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers -

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio -

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell -

    I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger

    Jace Holmes -

    Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.

    BCam -

  2. dEfYFtAGakgNBgPI
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    • Hebe die Scheibe vorsichtig senkrecht zum LCD an, gerade soweit um die Metallstifte, die oben an der Unterseite der Scheibe angebracht sind zu befreien.

    • Ziehe die Scheibe von der Unterkante des iMac weg und lege sie sorgfältig zur Seite.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, die Innenseite der Scheibe und das LCD peinlich genau zu reinigen. Jeglicher Staub und Fingerabdrücke werden sichtbar, sobald die Maschine eingeschaltet ist.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs -

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

    Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

    amiller770 -

  3. YMHZpR1auTJNWgmP
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    • Drehe die acht 8 mm T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die das Display am Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Die beiden letzten Bilder sind Detailaufnahmen jeder Seite des Displays.

    On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.

    Peter Shenkin -

    I used needlenose pliers and the T10 to align the screw into the hole. Otherwise the screw keeps jumping to the magnet. And patience with this NON-CAPTIVE screw design (c’mon Apple, even **I** came up with that, and I’m an idiot!)

    finnik2d -

    A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.

    Paul Boudreau -

    I use non magnetic SS curved tip tweezers together with a magnetized #10 torx bit both to remove and reinstall the screws. You can magnetize and demagnetize the bit using the strong magnets on the LCD frame. Don't worry too much during removal, you can recover the screw. But loath the moment you drop the last screw during reassembly. For that reason, reinstall the screws near the magnets and hardest to get to first.

    Michael Ben-Yehuda -

  4. XwKyIpMtsVUGuQLq

    • Hebe die Oberkante des Displays leicht aus dem äußeren Gehäuse.

    • Hebe es nicht zu weit hoch. Mehrere Kabel verbinden das Display noch mit dem Logic Board.

    When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?

    gm.konsortium -

    Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)

    gm.konsortium -

    Standing the imac upright on its stand really helps this step! Laying it falt makes getting under the panel a real hassle.

    finnik2d -

  5. ehgywlqT1YC6Q2ey
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    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel für die Vertikalsynchronisierung aus seinem Sockel auf der LED Treiberplatine nahe der oberen linken Ecke des iMac.

    • Das Ende dieses Flachbandkabels ähnelt einem ZIF Kabel, der Sockel hat aber keine Feststellklappe. Ziehe das Kabel einfach aus dem Sockel in Richtung des optischen Laufwerks, um es von der LED Treiberplatine zu trennen.

    The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better?

    Rajan -

    Scotch tape on the upper side and sliding this in helped to secure the cable.

    Rajan -

    Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.

    I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.

    Peter Shenkin -

    Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. Thanks

    Lutz Blum -

    So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.

    Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:

    1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.

    2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.

    3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.

    4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.

    5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.

    sydnius -

    I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.

    Duane Johnson -

    I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.

    Suzanne Levy -

    Could you put up some photos of this procedure - egg carton etc…

    Peter Barnett -

    Any ideas where to replace this cable?

    Danny Shaw -

    I followed Suzanne’s comment and also did not disconnect this cable (vertical sync ribbon cable) to avoid damage. I pivoted the screen about 110 degrees after the other cables where detached. On a flat surface, this is easily done and the cable is not tight. Image of my angle if I can drop a link. and cable in this position not in tension.

    investments kkl -

    Where can I buy the replacement for this vertical sync replacement cable?

    Neil Gonsalves -

  6. kVAlnw4MHFlBRuuO
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    • Kippe das Display weit genug aus aus dem äußeren Gehäuse, um das Kabel für die LED-Rückbeleuchtung von der LED-Treiberplatine zu trennen.

    • Löse das Kabel für die LED Rückbeleuchtung, indem du den Sicherungsmechanismus drückst, während du den Verbinder aus dem Sockel (in Richtung Unterkante des iMac).

    I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.

    Anthony C Carnell -

  7. dkAc2m5fqepILacA

    • Drücke die beiden Hebel am Verbinder des Display-Datenkabels zusammen, um sie vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board auszurasten.

    • Ziehe das Display-Datenkabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    • Sei beim Abtrennen und Wiederanschließen dieses Kabels sehr vorsichtig, es kann leicht beschädigt werden.

    in Step 7, my connector (new 21.5 iMac - Dec 2010) was not attached that way and just came of easily.

    erin -

    Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    Darlan Perira da Silva -

    I accidently broke the data cable socket on step 7. Any advice on what i should do?

    Sam Tang -

    I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Thanks.

    J.w. -

    Pas beaucoup de place pour déconnecter ce cable ! En essayant d'ouvrir trop l'écran pour passer mes "grosses mains" j'ai cossé le connecteur : je suis dans le caca :-( (et pourtant j'en fait des démontages !) Alors ATTENTION !!!

    divers -

    Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)

    divers -

    Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami

    Anthony C Carnell -

    Translation: It is better to disconnect the screen side first (under the black sticker)

    Michael Seiler -

  8. YSqOvFQsr5cCblIC

    • Löse den Verbinder des LCD Thermosensorkabels aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Wenn später nach dem Zusammenbau der Ventilator immer mit voller Drehzahl läuft, musst du diese Verbindung oder den Thermosensor an der Festplatte überprüfen.

    This is important regarding the fan running full speed

    http://blog.macsales.com/19617-diagnosin...

    tobykirkland -

    Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?

    professorminh -

    Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln

    bluesoundsmusic -

    English translation of bluesoundsmusic comment: “Caution! This plug can be very tight, here a good fingernail helps to lever the plug alternately right and left”

    investments kkl -

  9. gsMSLVOXLbURAVOX

    • Ziehe sorgfältig das Display zum oberen Rand des iMac und hebe es aus dem Gehäuse. Achte darauf, dass sich dabei keine Kabel verfangen.

  10. 25AvWIgV2isVaF3e

    • Ziehe den Verbinder des Thermosensors gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board

    While you’re here, disconnect that SD reader cable and don’t forget to plug it back in on your way back through: it’s not mentioned elsewhere in this guide.

    Corvallis Computer -

    For me this cable was by the hard drive with a grey and a black wire labeled “ODD_TEMP”

    Bryan Remely -

  11. BPLCUgtFNeBxrXYO

    • Entferne die vier 9 mm T10 Torx Schrauben, die das optische Laufwerk am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen.

  12. TPdDZyiNlu4KGxCT

    • Hebe die innere Kante des Laufwerks hoch und bewege seinen Verbinder aus dem Rahmen am Logic Board.

    • Ziehe das Laufwerk vorsichtig aus den Haltestiften am Rand des äußeren Gehäuses und schaffe so Platz, um das Kabel am optischen Laufwerk lösen zu können.

  13. wBrYJTWfiLaHLUqs

    • Löse das Kabel zum optischen Laufwerk mit Hilfe des flachen Ende des Spudgers.

    Be sure this cable doesn’t get stuck under the logic board during reassembly. Mine was under it, I was able to get it out but connecting it to the SuperDrive required a bit of force because my cable is so short.

    Javier Indesteege -

  14. d6WvvwXnQNFy1idK
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    • Es ist nicht nötig das ganze Abschirmband von der Halterung des optischen Laufwerks abzulösen. Es reicht den Teil zu lösen, ( hier rot markiert) der am Gehäuse des Laufwerks angeklebt ist.

    • Löse den rot markierten Teil des Aluminiumbands ab, der am Laufwerk klebt. Der Rest an der schwarzen Plastikhalterung kann bleiben.

  15. 2hbDgbT6uwEc46GX
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    • Entferne die beiden T10 Torx Schrauben auf jeder Seite des optischen Laufwerks, also insgesamt vier.

  16. 2VZDR6GfUVRAgI3L
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    • Falls nötig, kannst du die Rasten an der Halterung des optischen Laufwerks mit der Spudgerspitze aus den Schlitzen unten am Laufwerk drücken.

    • Drehe die Halterung leicht weg vom Laufwerk.

    • Ziehe die Halterung weg vom offenen Ende des optischen Laufwerks, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.

  17. GEPlScybmkkQSXW2
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    • Löse das Stück verklebten Schaumstoff mit der Spudgerspitze vom Thermosensor des optischen Laufwerks ab.

    • Heble vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers den Thermosensor aus der Verklebung mit dem optischen Laufwerk.

    • Wenn noch eine CD oder etwas anderes im Laufwerk steckt, haben wir eine Anleitung, wie du das herausholen kannst

    Can you (re)use this exact thermal sensor on the optical drive and attach it to a new SSD?

    Ali Mir -

    @AliMir - yes, you can reattach the thermal sensor to the new SSD

    osienna -

    Hello, I've broken the temperature sensor of the unit superdirve, where I can buy one?

    Angel Blasco -

  18. jOcWYAYFKKAeGTKe

    • Entferne die drei 3,0 mm Kreuzschlitz #0 Schrauben aus dem Gehäuse des optischen Laufwerks.

    Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

    Roman Quenin -

    plug in the back of the ssd

    Roman Quenin -

    I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    However I have NOT confirmed this.

    Allen Borza -

    If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

    EkDor -

    I bought another caddy, not the one from the description. i had to extract the plastic adaptor from the optical drive and put in on the new caddy 12,7mm

    Cristian Pizarro -

    The SDD caddy I purchased was 22 pin SATA both inside and outside so that the optical drive cable (13 pin) would not fit. Does anyone know where I can find a SDD caddy with 13 pin SATA outside for the optical cable and 22 pin SATA inside for the SDD?

    benja.mcg -

  19. VaI5SLkgrwPSJqPx
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    • Öffne das Gehäuse, indem du von der linken Kante ausgehend vorsichtig ziehst.

    • Ziehe weiter an den beiden Gehäusehälften, bis sie sich trennen.

    This is the 12.7mm caddy.. but, the caddy 9.5 mm fit fine as well? or it doesn't fit on imac mid 2010

    Cristian Pizarro -

    My caddy (ordered 5/2019) had two additional screws that needed to be removed from the sides for it to open.

    mr.kaufman7 -

  20. AggSHSpIQC1DHPDo

    • Entferne die beiden 3,0 mm Kreuzschlitz #0 Schrauben, mit welchen die Frontblende am Gehäuse des optischen Laufwerks befestigt ist.

  21. mKipidMkqiDyZSan
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    • Hebe die schwarze Kunststoff-Frontplatte aus dem Gehäuse der Optical Bay.

    • Du benötigst weder die Frontblende noch die beiden Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, mit denen sie an ihrem Platz gehalten wurde. Bewahre die Teile für den Fall auf, dass du jemals wieder die Frontblende in das Gehäuse einsetzen möchtest.

    • Baue das Gehäuse des optischen Laufwerks ohne die Frontplatte unter Verwendung der drei originalen 3,0 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben wieder zusammen.

    Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

    Nic Johnson -

    Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

    Jeff Dickson -

    So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

    For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

    Ron Lockhart -

    Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

    olafgoy -

    My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

    Kevo -

    Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

    Monkeyrebirth -

    I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

    nickmalmquist -

    Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

    EkDor -

    I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

    Keith Mewis -

    Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

    Alex -

    Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

    Walter Poole -

    I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

    The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

    Marc -

  22. ySbhhMVKBuFHSDNG
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    • Entferne den Abstandshalter aus Kunststoff vom Gehäuse des optischen Laufwerks, indem du einen der Clips auf beiden Seiten eindrückst und ihn dann nach oben aus dem Gehäuse heraushebst.

    What’s the switch for on the inside of the caddy? What position should it be in? Mine came switched to the right (towards SATA connector that disk inserts into).

    Robert Lord -

  23. pdKbwqliykNfMTgW
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    • Stelle sicher, dass die Anschlüsse nach unten zeigen, bevor die Festplatte in das Gehäuse eingesetzt wird.

    • Lege die Festplatte vorsichtig in das Gehäuse.

    • Während eine Hand das Gehäuse an Ort und Stelle hält, drücke mit der anderen Hand die Festplatte an die Anschlüsse im Gehäuse.

  24. ZBHBhNAEYykJGdJd
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    • Sobald die Festplatte fest sitzt. kannst du den Abstandshalter aus Kunststoff wieder einsetzen. Drücke dabei die Festplatte gegen die Unterseite des Gehäuses.

    • Schließe alle Kabel, die du vom ursprünglichen Laufwerk entfernt hattest, am optischen Laufwerk an.

    Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

    Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

    nickmalmquist -

    I suspect that the plastic positioner will secure the drive well enough (for this style of adapter). As I mentioned in earlier comment, this should mean you can replace / upgrade the SATA drive later without needing to remove the adapter, skipping many steps.

    Les Kitchen -

    Do you need a sata cable to connect the new drive to the board or does it connect via the optical drive cable that we disconnected earlier?

    Erik Sawaya -

    It does connect to the optical drive cable but if you don't use the optical bay enclosure you'll need a 13 pins to 22 pins sata adaptor (and some tape!)

    The sata cable for the optical drive has 6 + 7 pins while ssd and hhd have 15 + 7 pins

    Graziano Nora -

    Can someone please explain why you need to remove the black plastic faceplate  from the optical bay enclosure. It is designed to receive the standard SSD. What is gained from removing a part of it?

    Peter Bull -

    Thank you! This guy has made upgrading the mid 2010 iMac I inherited from my mom MUCH easier and saved me a lot of time, trial, and error.

    Rob Anthony Dire -

    My Penrynn Super Drive has PATA connector, and now is a fossil grade rarity :-(

    IMI Comp -

    I'm a little confused. Do I need the enclosure from ifixit or am I removing the optical drive and installing an ssd in the preexisting op drive enclosure? If using the already existing enclosure what type of ssd do I need as for Sata connectors?

    danielpainter65 -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Brittany McCrigler

Mitglied seit: 05/03/12

88148 Reputation

9 Kommentare

I followed this guide to place a samsung 840 EVO 750 GB ssd in the optical drive bay. The instructions worked near perfectly. However, I got many SATA CRC errrors. Not a connector seating problem. After placing the SSD in the hard drive bay (following the hard drive replacement guide) no more CRC errors.

I tested with an older laptop hdd: This works fine in the optical bay.

Apparently either the optical drive bay does not work well with the samsung 840 EVO or my optical drive cable is no good.

I reassembled my superdrive and placed the SSD in place of my built-in HDD for a nice speed increase.

Is there any listing of ssds that work well in the OD bay?

Allard Mosk -

I recently replaced my HD with an SSD drive. Watching this guide actually helped too!

I would also like to replace the optical drive with a Hard Drive. Would it make much of a difference wether I use a SSD or a 7200rpm HD? I would be using it for video and audio files for Protools and Final Cut Pro that are running on the SSD..

It seems like the negotiated speed on the optical SATA is only 1.5 Gigabit..

Ron kauvon -

Do you attach the thermal sensor to the equivalent place on drive enclosure as it was on the optical drive?

Kevin Quinn -

Would love to know how to re-use the optical drive externally, with an inexpensive enclosure.

Rob Wilderman -

There is the OWC SuperSlim (https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20...) The iMac drive looks at least half again as thick as a laptop drive, so there would be a gap between the top and bottom pieces of the SuperSlim - maybe build a thin wood frame to take up the gap? Four pieces, each about a quarter-inch thick, glued or lapped on the corners. If you want to be *really* nifty, maybe try to do a dove-tail on each corner - but that would require cutting about 2 mm "doves and tails".

jimwitte -

Is scotch tape inside the mac likely to dry out or fall apart "quickly"? The bracket I had for the optical drive (the DataDoubler bracket designed for laptops) didn't fit, and I didn't have a proper 2.5->3.5 adapter plate for the main hard drive, so I just ended up "mounting" them using the optical drive EMC tape for one, and a fair amount of scotch tape on both to keep them from completely flopping around in there too much - it is a *desktop* after all. Will this work? And will having both of them at an angle with one edge touching the back of the machine (and the tape) create thermal problems? The SSDs are both Crucial brand, 240GB.

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I'll probably be opening the thing up again in the next week - there was an *incredible* amount of dust in the fans - it seemed surprising though I it shouldn't. Can you get "dust suckers" to clean dust from fan blades and such without having to remove the fans themselves? I don't want to brave a full tear-down. Getting 8 metal screws back in past NeoDy magnets was tough!

jimwitte -

Is scotch tape inside the mac likely to dry out or fall apart "quickly"? The bracket I had for the optical drive (DataDoubler bracket for laptops) didn't fit, and I didn't have a proper 2.5->3.5 adapter plate for the main hard drive, so I just ended up "mounting" them using the drive EMC tape for one, and a fair amount of scotch tape to keep them from completely flopping around in there - it is a *desktop* after all. Will this work? And will both of them being at an angle with an edge touching the back of the machine (and tape) create thermal problems? DVD one still has the temp sensor, the other is shorted. Both are both Crucial brand, 240GB.

.

I'll probably be opening the thing up again - there was an *incredible* amount of dust in the fans - it seemed surprising though I it shouldn't. Can you get "dust suckers" to clean dust from fan blades and such without having to remove the fans themselves? I don't want to brave a full tear-down. Getting 8 metal screws back in past NeoDy magnets was tough!

jimwitte -

If I use a SSD drive would I lost some performance by connecting it to the optical drive SATA slot?

Is the SATA slot connecting de 3.5" hard drive more efficient?

Graziano Nora -